Chris Klopf is a California surfer/photographer who started shooting surfing in 1965. His work has been featured in most of the major surfing publications including Surfer’s Path and Pacific Longboarder. We spoke with Chris to learn more about his art and his surfing.
What was your life like growing up?
I grew up in Marin County surfing the spots north of San Francisco. It was pretty uncomplicated. I started surfing and shooting photos in 1965.
What were your first experiences surfing?
There weren’t too many surfers back then on the north coast in ’65. My dad first bought me a Hansen longboard. It was a heavy, clunky rockerless board, with a big D fin and a T band stringer. It was really slow and hard to turn. Later that year my dad drove me down to Stanley’s Diner in Santa Barbara, where the waves were 4 foot, paper thin, hollow and perfect. He bought a 9′ 10″ Yater Spoon from a Hollister Ranch hippy local guy. The Yater was light years ahead, you could ride real waves on it. It was a stepdeck, thin and speedy, a really evolved board for the time and my surfing really took off after I got that board.
I kept riding a longboard mostly, until about 1970. Then I rode single fin and twin fin shortboards exclusively until 1978. Back then I had drive in privileges up at the Bixby Ranch. We drove in there on one good south swell and this guy had an old Bing longboard, with a piece of plywood for a fin. I took that thing out at Cojo and got some great lined up waves on it, and ever since then I’ve always had a longboard in my quiver.
What drew you to photography?
I just started documenting surfing after I was surfed out. I’d either take my dad’s camera gear to the beach or sometimes the school’s equipment. The only time I went to high school was when the waves weren’t good, I don’t know how I graduated! When I’d go, I’d spend lunch hours and after school hours in the darkroom learning through trial and error about film and printing. I was never much of a sports photographer – my mom was a well-known and celebrated painter so she was a great influence. I learned composition skills from her when I was very young. I went to the San Francisco Art Institute after high school, which also influenced me.
Of all the places you’ve traveled to, what place stands out and why?
They’re all great. Indonesia, the Philippines, South America, Central America, Mexico, Africa, New Zealand, Australia, Hawaii – they’ve all got great things going on, but these days I look for somewhere warm (laughs) and also not on the other side of the world.
What inspires you?
When I’m shooting, I’m mostly in competition with myself. If I’ve done something one way, I’ll try to approach it differently the next time. I want to document accurately what I see. I’ve seen beautiful places back in the day that today are just built up and lost. In that sense, every photographer is like a historian as everything is just changing at warp speed these days. I’m happy I got to live through past eras that were a lot less crowded and commercialized.
What are you most proud of?
Being where I’m at today. It’s a sum total of everywhere I’ve ever been. I’m living where I want to live, in the unspoiled scenic country of northern California by the lakes, big trees and mountains. I’ve got the life and the wife I want. When I go to the ocean it always looks fresh, and I don’t have to sit in the fog while it’s onshore or flat. With the internet, I can go just when the waves are good, which is the best thing about this current era.
What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is pretty much the most fun thing in the world. Just that feeling – it’s like flying. You are really free out there. You’re not stressed out – unless it’s a crowded spot. I tend to avoid those spots these days.
Who are some of the next generation surfers that you admire?
Anyone who is smooth and doesn’t ride a thruster all the time. I really don’t put anyone on a pedestal, and just try to keep an open mind. There are a lot of good retro surfers these days. I’m stoked on that.
How important is style?
Style is one of the most important things. The person who has too much upper body movement, has his arms waving and flapping, or bends his back when he’s crouching to get barrelled instead of his knees. They don’t have much style and they just look awkward. Surfing should look easy. Flowing with the wave, not fighting against it – that is good style.
What’s your favorite board you are currently riding?
I like a 9’4 single fin longboard without too much nose rocker.
What’s your favorite meal?
Organic chicken enchiladas! (laughs). Sushi – my wife is a gourmet chef. Live foods – I don’t eat red meat. My diet is balanced – organic fruit, veggies, grains… or whatever. And I don’t eat any processed food at all.
What kind of music do you listen to?
I like most kinds of music, but I don’t listen to too much heavy metal, thrash, or any kind of loud untalented crap. I like music that is kind of relaxing – a little bit of country, jazz, and some old school rock and roll.
What are you most grateful for?
My whole life. For the life I have and where I ended up with it.
What’s next for Chris Klopf?
I don’t know, (laughs) more of the same I guess. Until they put me in my wheelchair…
Find out more about Chris Klopf and his photography here. Photo captions: 1. Tyler Warren, 2. Long and winding road, 3. Brendan White, 4. Sunset wave, 5. Chris Klopf, Northern California.
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
My new neighbor Jeff Huerara grew up with you he says. He reminded me that you were down at Scorps in the spring of 1994. I remember you were walking up from Second point after I connected a long tube from Third through sceond point. You weren’t shooting at that moment but did you happen to get much footage from that swell , Always meant to ask you
Cheers Steve Woods
The last time i was at Scorpion Bay was in !985, so he’s obviously thinking of someone else.. sorry.