Lucas Dirkse is a young talented surfer from San Diego. He is also a proud member of the Yard Possums, a ride anything collective created by Richard Kenvin with Ryan Burch. Whether it is an alaia, a slab of closed-cell foam, or a modern thruster – Lucas rips on them all. We spoke with Lucas to learn more.
When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first board when I was, like, seven—some $10 board my aunt got me at a garage sale.
What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I was just like, “That was fun! I want to do it again!”
Do you have any surfing role models—people you look up to and want to emulate either in the water, on land or both?
I have tons of people I look up to, but to narrow it down I would say I really look up to Joel Tudor, Derek Dunfee, Joe Roper, Richard Kenvin, Tyler Warren, Andy Davis and Ryan Burch. They are guys I watch surf and am around a lot. I have really looked up to them when it came to whatever the matter was.
At 15, you are the youngest of the Yard Possums. Can you explain the importance of Yard Possums?
There is really no importance to the Yard Possums. We are just a bunch of friends who like to surf bizarre shredding devices.
Most surfers your age are preoccupied with thrusters and busting airs. What is it that makes you different?
I like thrusters and doing airs. I just feel that being different is a good thing, and also weird boards can be more fun for different times. It’s lame just to ride some plug for your entire life! You got to switch it up a little.
Why planing hulls?
I am not all about planing hulls. They are just one of the stepping stones for me and I ride them because they’re fun!
Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
I haven’t traveled very much at all, actually, but I always like going to Baja. I was born down there and we have a house there, so I like to go down like once a year if I am lucky. There are some really good waves there!
Who or what inspires you?
I get inspired by a lot of things—good waves especially!
What is the greatest thing you have learned in your young life so far?
I haven’t really learned anything too great in my life yet, but it’s always good just to be smart and take your time at what you’re doing because you can mess up pretty bad if you’re not careful.
When you get your license, which surf break will you drive to first?
Probably Cardiff or Malibu.
Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Um… maybe like not doing something when I had the opportunity to, but nothing too bad.
What are you most proud of?
I am most proud of… I don’t know, maybe my past life when I used to do contests, but that’s a kind of lame thing to be proud of. So nothing really yet. (Laughs)
What meaning does surfing hold for?
It means a good time and good friends—nothing else.
What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Going to school… just kidding! Surfing… duh! (Laughs)
Do you have any advice, at 15, for other surfers of any age or ability?
Number one … never start surfing; there are enough people in the water. (Laughs) But if you already started, then just surf. Don’t ego yourself out. It doesn’t help … trust me. Keep it roots, and just surf and have fun. Experiment with the unknown when it comes to equipment.
Describe your perfect day of surfing from start to finish.
My perfect day would have to be a 6 to 8 foot south/southwest swell and a really low tide filling in to a medium tide in the evening. Then you can get morning Windansea perfect lefts until around noon. Then, go get the fattest, greasiest burrito you can find at Ortegas. Then, go to CVS and get as much caffeine as possible. Then, go to the beach and watch the tide fill in at Big Rock. Head out and get tubed out of your mind.
Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Probably some of the guys who are like in their 20’s. They are what is the next generation and the next group of people that my age group are going to look up to.
What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Favorite board would probably be one of my Rusty Screamer boards. Weird name, but the board rips.
Surf spots? Windansea, Big Rocks and some “don’t worry about it” spots.
What’s your favorite post-session meal?
What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Steve Miller Band (Fly Like an Eagle ‘74 Christmas version).
What causes or organizations do you support?
Surfrider Foundation is always good for some things.
What are you most grateful for?
I am most grateful for life and waves!
What’s next for Lucas Dirkse?
Next is I am gonna write an essay, then go check the waves and go surf. But in life in general, I am just going to explore the unknown!