The legendary and genius George Greenough. Sandspit 1962. 50 years ago (has it really been that long?). Frame grab from the excellent Surf Matters blog.
We offer an alternative to the
thruster and contest mentality that dominates our activity. We choose
to celebrate surfing for what it is:
a joyful union between the surfer
and the ocean. Our mission is to
give voice to those people — surfers, shapers, writers, artists, filmmakers, and photographers — who quietly
keep surf culture alive.