My friend once said that to me, and it’s true. As I’ve garnered more years, less hair, and more responsibilities, it is easy to come up with a ton of excuses for not getting in the water. Too windy, not enough swell, too much swell…sometimes I feel like I look for reasons not to gosurfing. If I doubt myself I usually have the surf cams to help affirm why I shouldn’t go. It looks kinda funky on screen, and the written reports can make it sound less than fun. Now I can go back to bed feeling confident in my decision.
Then I talk to a friend who asks if I surfed that morning. “No, it looked pretty crappy and I had a bunch of stuff to do this morning.” “Man, that’s a bummer, because the beach was a blast today. A few pick-and-choose sets, but when you got into one it was killer!” And we all know it only takes one. Just one good wave can re-ignite your fire and get you back into full surf-fiend mode. You want to continue having that feeling. After not being out for a few weeks, you might surf for multiple days in a row—or at least several times over the next few weeks—to keep that feeling alive. Now you’re looking for excuses to put aside your various responsibilities in order to surf. You’re in a complete 180 from where you were just a week ago. You soon realize that age, responsibilities, and all of your other BS excuses have very little to do with it.
How many times did you go down to the beach before the surf cams and decide to paddle out even when it didn’t look that good? And, how many of those sessions actually turned out be a lot more fun than you expected?
Happy Friday! – James Bowman, Halcyon Tea, San Diego. Find out more about Halcyon Tea here.
Photo by Will Adler. Find out more about Will here.