My friend once said that to me, and it’s true. As I’ve garnered more years, less hair, and more responsibilities, it is easy to come up with a ton of excuses for not getting in the water. Too windy, not enough swell, too much swell…sometimes I feel like I look for reasons not to go [click to continue]
I love my local library. It’s small. It has a fairly limited selection, but I kind of like that about it. I never go in looking for anything in particular. I just wander around the shelves, head tilted sideways looking at the spines, pretty unaware of which section I’m in. Within a few minutes I usually have three or four books in hand. As I can only check out five, [click to continue]
Grab your fins! Or don’t, if you prefer to stand waist deep and finless in the womp zone. Either way, board-free surfing is one of my favorite ways to get wet when the water warms up. During the summers of my late teens (a hell of long time ago now) my friends and I spent a lot more time womping our favorite summer spots than we did riding our boards. [click to continue]
