Liz Cock­rum is a San Diego-based pho­tog­ra­pher who works in medium for­mat film to cap­ture the unique aspects of surf cul­ture. Her lat­est work “Sirens,” a look at the many facets of ded­i­cated women surfers, has been pub­lished in the U.S. and internationally.

When did you get your first surf­board?
I got my first surfboard in …