Jeff Johnson

by Glenn Sakamoto on May 24, 2010 · 12 comments

Jeff Johnson is a California surfer/writer/photographer who stars in Woodshed Films’ 180° South – A trip that mirrors the legendary journey of Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins. An accomplished writer, his works have appeared in Surfer’s Journal, Surfer, and Alpinist. We spent some time with Jeff to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up in Danville, California in the East Bay San Francisco. Lots of open space in my neighborhood—very few fences. Grassy, rolling hills. Oak trees and walnut orchards. The girls rode horses. The guys rode motorbikes.

When I was about 12 or 13 years old, I quit all the team sports, got a haircut and a skateboard, and was immediately at odds with all the jocks, parents and teachers. Suddenly, I had a new, small group of disenchanted friends who all felt the same about our surroundings. We wanted out.

In the 80’s, surfing still had an outlaw/counterculture vibe. I was naturally attracted to it. I started surfing when I was old enough drive to the coast. It took over my life. It’s all I wanted to do. I moved to Hawaii just after high school graduation in 1987. I was back and fourth till I moved permanently to the North Shore of Oahu in 1990. This was my home base for about 15 years.

When did you get your first surfboard?
There was a guy named Jimmy Olson who lived on my block when I was a kid. He was about four to five years older than me. The guy was like a god to me. He and his buddies were the only surfers in Danville. They looked different and acted different. He built surfboards in his garage, start to finish. When I was about 15, he took me to a remote pointbreak north of Santa Cruz. He told me it was a “secret spot” and we were “kooks” from inland. I took this as a warning: Secret spot, good. Kooks, bad. I caught my first wave that day, but it didn’t really get me till a year or so later. Then, he sold me a used board. I think it was a 6’0” thruster with shallow rocker, full rails, wide tail—full-on 80’s board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
It was an overwhelming sensation—all this water moving beneath me. I felt weightless watching the water pass by the rails. It making me kinda dizzy. I couldn’t believe this sensory overload taking place in only a few seconds. These seconds I played over and over in my head as I lay in bed that night. The bug. I remember not wanting to rinse off the salt the ocean left on my body—laying there with salty hair dreaming of the next wave.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young boy?
My dad has always been my biggest hero. He was once a ski patrol, an excellent skier. Still is! He had me snow skiing when I was four years old. He’d wake me up at four in the morning to drive to Tahoe. I’d sleep on the floorboards of the truck and would wake up with the first light at Donner Pass. It was so great to watch him move over snow—so graceful and fluid. I’d try my hardest to emulate him. Those early years had a huge impact on me. I still love waking up long before the sun and going on crazy missions. You eventually become your parents, you know. I’ve become my dad in many ways.

I was skating in the era of Christian Hosoi and all the Bones Brigade guys, but I was into learning about Jay Adams and Stacy Peralta. I’d search for all those old Stecyk articles and Friedman photos. I’d learn their old tricks and mixed it up with the new ones.

As I got into surfing, I didn’t care who won the world title—you’d think I’d be into Potts or Curren or whoever was hot at the time. But, I was into reading about Miki Dora and Pat Curren, Mead Hall and the North Shore in the 50’s and 60’s.

As a climber, it was Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robbins and Yosemite’s Camp 4 in the 60’s.

All these guys were way before my time, but they were the ones I looked up to and still do.

What inspired you to become a storyteller?
My Dad is a great storyteller. His stories are so good that I often tell them myself. Even now, he’ll say, “Have I ever told you about … ?” And I will say “no” just so I can hear the story again.

I didn’t start reading till after high school—then I continued incessantly. Authors like Charles Bukowski, Cormac McCarthy, James Salter, John Fante have inspired me to write and share stories.

What was it about Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins that inspired you to create 180 South?
Around 10 years ago, my friend Amy Kumler handed me a dusty old videocassette tape. She worked for Patagonia and said she found it locked up in a vault. She had to sneak it out of there because no one outside the office was supposed to see it. “Mountain of Storms” was written on it. Chris Malloy and I popped it in the VCR one evening. It blew our minds. In 1968, Doug and Yvon and friends drove a van from Ventura, California to Patagonia, Chile to climb Mount Fitzroy. They surfed the way down there, climbed live volcanoes and basically goofed off. They filmed the entire thing. But it was what these two men later became. Yvon would come home and name his clothing company Patagonia. Doug, who had already started and sold The North Face, would create the clothing company Esprit with his wife.

Doug sold his share of Esprit in the late 80s. He put all his money into creating the world’s biggest privately-owned land conservation project down in Patagonia. Yvon’s environmental efforts with his company, Patagonia, would set a standard on the outdoor industry and have an effect on the way business is done worldwide. We knew right away that this forgotten film we were watching was the beginning of a journey for these two men. It was the trip that changed their lives.

Chris had made some successful surf films already. We were inspired to do a similar trip (either following in their footsteps or something in the same spirit) and make a film about it. In 2006, it all started to come together as 180 South … a dream come true.

How are surfing and climbing similar?
They are both about working with nature rather than trying to control it. This kind of effort attracts a certain individual—one who is open and creative. So, it’s not as much the actual acts that are similar. It’s the culture.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?

I would have to say Rapa Nui/Easter Island. I sailed through there on my way to Chile while filming 180 South. I had always wanted to go there. I’ve been all over Polynesia and going to the furthest corner intrigued me—the most remote habitable piece of land on Earth. It has the most interesting history, too. The island is in a really good place right now.

I found some fun surf there, too. There’s no perfect set-ups, mostly peaky, ledgy reefs. Small waves and some big wave spots. You can surf alone if you want.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Compassion.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I’m really stoked right now. If I had done something differently, my life right now might be totally different. So, I guess I have no regrets. You can always look back and see how you could have done something better. But that’s how life is. It would suck if you did everything perfectly; it’d be boring.

What are you most proud of?
Following my heart, sticking to my guns, like my heroes have taught me.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
When I was heavily into skating, I was kinda going down a crooked path—spending time in The City, doing drugs, getting arrested and so on. Then, surfing came along and demanded a healthier lifestyle. I wasn’t gonna show up at the beach in my leather jacket all f*cked up. Not to say surfing kept me out of trouble … just a different kind of trouble.

I knew surfing could be a long life for me. Do it till you die. I watch what I eat. I stay fit. Do a little yoga here and there. I still skate, but surfing became a lifestyle for me. The addiction forced me to work odd jobs. It led me to Hawaii, sent me around the world, introduced me to so many people, friends, culture. Without it, I’d be a totally different person.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
This might sound cliché but … freedom.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I have no idea.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Right now I’m riding this board Fletcher Chouinard made for me. It’s a 5’8” quad, wide like a fish, shallow rocker … super fast. I rode his on our last trip to Indonesia and was freaking out on it, so I had him make me one. You can glide through flat sections like on a fish, but then you can turn it on a dime too. It works really well in slow, mushy crap and it performs in overhead surf as well. The board is a variation of the Quark model, so he calls it the Fark.

As far as my favorite surf spot? That’s a tough one. Though I never really dedicated myself to it while living on the North Shore for all those years, but I’d have to say Backdoor. I got some of the best waves of my life there. Nothing compares. Living in California now, I’d say its right-hand pointbreaks. Even my friends in Hawaii froth over the pointbreaks here when they’re on.

What’s your favorite meal?
When you’ve been surfing all day, you’re starving, and you’re in the middle of nowhere and your buddy hands you a sloppy peanut butter and jelly sandwich? I’d say that is the best meal ever. My favorite.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I’ve been tripping on these freaks from Malibu lately—a guy named Blake Mills, and a band called Daws. They both used to be in a band called Simon Daws—way ahead of their time. The White Buffalo, Ugly Cassanova, Wilco, Metallica’s first three albums—out of control good. Mason Jennings, Todd Hannigan, White Stripes. Local band here in Ventura called Rey Fresco—killing it. Mozart when I read or write. X is always in there—one of my all-time favorite bands. A little Devo here and there. Driving back from Yosemite the other day, I listened to Neil Young for four hours; all this bootleg live stuff with a small audience. What a legend! Still making relevant music after all these years.

What are you most grateful for?
Another cliché …having the best friends in the world and a supportive family.

What’s next for Jeff Johnson?
I have no idea. First, I’m gonna get up and out of this chair.

Find out more about Jeff Johnson here. For more details about the film 180° South click here. To visit the 180° South Patagonia site click here.


Related Posts with Thumbnails

{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }

Best Surf Blogs May 25, 2010 at 4:32 pm

Thanks for an inspiring interview! Really nice images too.

Reply

Roman May 26, 2010 at 3:27 am

Yes, thanks for sharing. Cool stuff! Can’t wait to see the movie.

Reply

Jair Bortoleto May 26, 2010 at 6:13 am

Another great, great, great interview…. such a huge inspiration in a very humble man, from what I read…..

Reply

David Dixon October 11, 2010 at 12:04 pm

I picked up the Patagonia movie at the video store the other day because it really interesting. Once the movie started I thought to myself…”Jeff Johnson,….from Danville…..where do I know that name? After some memory searching, I recalled that it was from Los Cerros Junior High. Jeff was a year ahead of me. He and a guy named Bobby Porter where skaters. I didnt know Jeff, but he was a secret hero of mine at that time. I wanted to be a skater too. I got the board and the haircut, but I couldnt skate to save my life. It’s such a small world! To pick up a film by chance and be transported back to junior high school. I’m so happy for Jeff that he followed his dreams and stuck to his guns. I wish I’d done more of that in my own life. Thanks for the article.

Reply

Kevin Wheeler October 24, 2011 at 5:15 pm

Just saw your movie Jeff…180 degrees south. You definetly know how to live life. Very cool.
Hope to see you around Danville sometime.

Reply

Sean Arbabi August 21, 2012 at 2:59 pm

Grew up in the Bay Area, live in Danville myself, and photographed in Northern Patagonia (Mt Tronador, Bariloche, etc) once – hope to return someday and help in its conservation. Danville has produced a number of great folks who strive to do something extraordinary in their lives, including Jeff of course.

Reply

Michael King November 12, 2012 at 3:54 pm

Jeff-
I just watched your documentary and I think you and I skated together when we were kids. My brother and I had a halfpipe in Orinda and I believe you and a few other Danville guys used to come over and skate with us! Anyway I now live in Santa Cruz, Pleasure Point, when im not working im surfing! I really enjoyed your film. I found it very inspiring.
Take care,
Michael King

Reply

Ty MacCarty February 16, 2013 at 10:51 pm

Jeff,
I was inspired by the documentary about your trip to Patagonia. I’m from Sheridan, Wyoming and I share the same love for nature and the push to save it. I’m looking to make a trip down the Pacific coast within the next year or two. I need help planning it out, can you give me any suggestions as far as strategy? I hope to backcountry ski and surf along the way. Several buddies want to join as well. We want to do it for the adventure and we would like to help in saving Patagonica or anything similar. This trip is in its infancy but I would like to begin making a plan.
Thank you for your time,
Ty MacCarty

Reply

Anne Malaythong April 23, 2013 at 9:30 am

Love the movie. I watched it twice. It makes you want to “live” your life and not have materialistic things control you.

Reply

Teresa October 27, 2013 at 9:01 pm

How incredibly inspiring.
I can’t start life over, but with a little courage and strength, I can start a different life, now. Thank you for the dreams, and here’s to making a new reality. Cheers!

Reply

Byron B December 6, 2013 at 2:51 pm

JJ is a super class act. Inspiring for sure!

Reply

Eric Blue January 15, 2014 at 9:35 pm

Hi Jeff I grew up in Danville C.A. as well really inspiring story. I grew up in Santa Cruz and capatola. Went to Monte Vista the only poor kid in school. I’m sure you know the stigma with Danville. Just thought I’d hit you up. yhanks
Eric Blue
Walnut Creek C.a eblue81@gmail.com. Thanks

Reply

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: