Lachie Rombouts grew up a two-hour bus ride from the beach and never flinched about grabbing his board and making the journey at every opportunity. As soon as he was old enough he moved closer, but along with the increase in surf time came the trappings of being a young man fresh out of school, living the party life. Lachie struggled to balance the so-called good times on land with the actual good times in the water and eventually his mental health nosedived. Until, one day his home break lit up with the swell of a lifetime. “In the end, it was finding a connection with giant surfboards and even bigger waves that re-invigorated Lachie’s love for the sea and helped him identify what sort of man he wanted to be.”
Chris Del Moro is always smooth, especially when finding summer fun at Secos. Witness this truth in another edition of #LostReels, curated, filmed and edited by Jason Baffa Films and presented by @ziobaffa.
"Anything is possible." That's what Cliff Kapono learned from Larry Bertlemann when Kapono was growing up on the Big Island of Hawaii, discovering his influences and laying the groundwork for his own approach in the water.
Tyler Surfboards and has been pushing traditional design with South Bay roots for 30 years. Captured in Manhattan Beach while shooting for the #RedirectSurf Project with longtime collaborator Jason Baffa.
The Bonzer is the archetype of the modern surfboard. It was the first standardized tri-fin surfboard created in 1970 by Malcom and Duncan Campbell. To this day, Malcom and Duncan are still shaping Bonzers for their loyal fans, like Alex Knost.
Gerry Lopez and Wayne Lynch have spent most of their lives looking forward—especially when they were finding new lines in the tube and on the face. But the two surfers sat down to take a look back, swapping stories about influence, innovation and how surfing taught them to go left when the whole establishment was going right.
Banks Journal's latest volume with surfer/shaper Jared Mell takes us to the dreamy shores of Noosa, a place as playful and unique as Jared's style both in and out of the water. Shot and edited on vintage 16mm film by Lockie.
Devon Howard riding a single-fin, 9'9" traditional "Involvement" style longboard shaped by Australia's Thomas Bexon. This board is similar to what Aussie surfers were riding for a very brief time in Noosa Heads during 1966 before they abandoned this design and these type of lines for shorter boards and a tighter turning radius.
Tom Pohaku Stone handcrafts traditional Hawaiian surfboards to ride the waves of time on the windward side of Oahu. Tom's favorite surfboard is not a modern, fiberglass board. This board is one he has built with his own hands, with techniques that have been passed down through generations.
A combination of Nat Young's boards ridden from 1963 - 66 by Beau Young. Music by Chicago singer/songwriter Larry Bischmann.
Don Hansen, founder of Hansen Surfboards, hitchhiked from South Dakota to California to build his life around surfing when he was 18, he hasn't looked back since.
From 2015, Tommy Witt surfs a fun right hand point break in Mexico with only a handful of surfers out. Film by Cody Watten.