By Glenn Sakamoto

Shawn Parkin is a surfer/photographer from San Clemente, California. In 2012, he won the prestigious Larry "Flame" Moore Follow The Light award, a recognition given to upcoming photographers with a talent for surf photography. Shawn's work has been published in many publications including Surfer, ESPN, Surfline and Surfers Journal. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I was born in Laguna Beach, CA, but moved about 20 minutes inland when I was real young. My parents took me to the beach now and then, but neither of them surfed. Thankfully, they enrolled me in the Junior Lifeguard program at San Clemente Pier, which is where I learned to surf for the first time. I think I was 11.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Christmas of ‘92 at the age of 12. It was a 6'3" Blue Hawaii with a neon spray job.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Honestly, I don't remember my first wave. But I do know it didn't come easy. Most of the time, San Clemente Pier is a dumpy closeout, so it's kind of a difficult wave to learn on. But I loved being in the ocean, and I was determined to learn. In our Junior Lifeguard program, there were always more kids that wanted to surf than there were (good) surfboards. So they had a no-leash policy. If you lost your board to the beach, anyone waiting for a board could grab it and paddle out. So I think that helped to teach us a bit of board control… I kinda strayed from the question there!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Definitely my dad. He was a huge part of my life, and really shaped who I am today. He was an artist, and a very creative person. I consider myself very fortunate to have had him and my mom as parents.

What inspired you to begin shooting images?
I caught the travel bug before I began shooting photos. So I would say initially, I was just trying to bring home travel mementos in the form of photos. But those were mostly just snapshots like anyone would take. As for the surf photography, that started when I blew out my knee in college. I was living a block from the beach at the time, and it was a good winter for surf. The waves were so good, and as torturous as it was, I would go watch the waves every day. Since I couldn't surf, I started shooting lineup photos. I had no idea what I was doing really, but somehow managed to get a few decent photos. Those lineup shots sparked a fire in me, and spawned my greatest passion, ultimately changing the course of my life.

What do you look for in a photograph?
A good composition for sure, but also a mood or feeling that helps people to connect to the photo.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
New Zealand stands out as a favorite, for the pure physical beauty. Big, rugged, and diverse, with jaw-dropping landscapes of all types and temps. And it's an island nation that gets swell on all sides. What's not to love?

Who/what inspires you?
Honestly, what inspires me most is Mother Nature. She's beautiful and moody, she is forever changing, and she has an exquisite color palette. Of course, going somewhere new and seeing that place through fresh eyes is always inspiring, but also finding visual beauty close to home in ordinary circumstances is a source of inspiration as well. No two people will see the same scene in the same way. I love being able to create captivating images through my viewfinder, in an otherwise ordinary scenes- finding something beautiful that 9 out of 10 people would never see.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Live for today. Do what you love, every day, because we all have a limited number of tomorrows.

What are you most proud of?
I'd say in terms of my photography, it was winning the Follow the Light Award for surf photography in 2012. Every year, all the best up and comers in the surf photography world submit their portfolios to compete for the annual grant. The winner is chosen by a panel of highly talented and well-respected photographers and photo editors, so it was a huge honor to have been given the nod. All the portfolios that make it to the final 5 are so strong, and the other photographers are so good… I'm proud to have shared the stage with them.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is a way for me to connect with Mother Nature. It allows me to be in the moment, free of distraction, where all background noise fades away. And it's fun. A lot of fun. If you're not having fun in your time here on this planet, you are doing something wrong. Surfing is the reason why I live where I do, it was the reason I attended the college I went to, it's how I came to know most of my friends, and it's shaped my career path.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Without a doubt, my daughter. She's a year and a half old, cute as can be, the love of my life, and center of my world. Maybe a cliché answer for a parent, but so what?

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
The surfboard shapers are influencing surfing in a huge way – more so than anyone else in my opinion. I really like the fact that in the last handful of years, people have been exploring all types of board designs. You walk into a surf shop these days, and it's no longer racks upon racks of shortboard thrusters. Of course those types of boards will always be on the forefront of progressive and competitive surfing, but not everyone is that type of surfer.

I've been diversifying my quiver in recent years, and it's really opened my eyes to entirely different ways of riding waves, and ultimately new ways to enjoy the ocean. And it's all about fun, right? There are so many wave riding options out there besides the standard shortboards, from logs, to fish, asyms, finless, mid-lengths, handplanes, and so many others. I feel like those who have an open mind about their equipment, are the ones who are going to enjoy themselves the most. And it's the shapers that provide these amazing tools for us to experiment with. So thank you to all the surfboard shapers out there. Most of them are underpaid and under-appreciated. But I, for one, truly appreciate the art and craft of surfboard design.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board right now is definitely my Alaia by Jon Wegener. It's a challenge to ride, but when you get a good one, it makes all the hard work well worth it. The board gives you such a different ride, one you can't get on anything else. Sliding with incredible and effortless speed, on such a minimal and seemingly simple design – it's totally exhilarating. As for surf spots, my favorite spot that's within reach of a day trip is Rincon. But locally, it's Churches and Uppers.

What's your favorite meal?
Surf ‘n Turf.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Bad Religion, The White Buffalo, Bob Dylan, Old Crow Medicine Show, Ms Mr, Johnny Cash, Ben Harper, and John Butler.

What are you most grateful for?
I'm most grateful for the fact that I get to do what I love for a living. This career allows me to spend a lot of time in the ocean, and the outdoors, as well as connecting with interesting people. It also affords me the time and flexibility to spend a lot of time with my wife and daughter, and that is priceless.

What’s next for Shawn Parkin?
More of the same, I'm loving life! Ha ha! Seriously though, I support my family on freelance photography, which can be a bit stressful at times. It's no secret that it's pretty difficult these days to be financially stable as a (freelance) surf photog, especially when supporting a family. So I'm currently fishing for a retainer or two, looking for brands who can utilize me and my photography on a regular basis. Until that happens, I'm plugging along doing my thing. And surfing a lot.

Find out more about Shawn Parkin and his photography here. Portraits of Shawn Parkin by Chris Grant. All images are copyrighted and may not be shared without expressed written permission.

By Ming Nomchong 

A beautiful evening with Lauren Hill spent riding wavelets into the setting sun, watching light sparkle and dance on the glassy ocean surface and floating around with the women of the sea. It’s amazing how the ocean can heal and revive you. How it can bring you together and connect you with people around you. Out there on the ocean, we all share a common love, a love that brings us closer to each other and creates a community that is strong and protective. Once indited, you a life long member. It’s a playground for all ages and from all walks of life. There’s no pre-requisite except for a love of the sea.

To learn more about photographer Ming Nomchong, read our interview with her here. To visit her blog The Drifter, please click here. All images and text are ©2013 Ming Nomchong and may not be used without permission.

Former Surfer Magazine editor Ben Marcus is the author of 365 Surfboards, his latest book that showcases a curated selection of surfboard shapes and designs along with their owners. We spoke with Ben to learn more.

Your new book 365 Surfboards is now printed and shipped. How do you feel?
I once asked author Kem Nunn whether he read his books and he said, “No, because I only see what’s not there.” I kind of feel like that. There are a lot of important boards that did not get into the book and also a lot of boards and portraits we shot that didn’t make it either. Bill Hoope with his Hot Curl replica. Jeff Clark and his Mavericks board. Janet MacPherson with her Rennie Yater mother of pearl. I’m still trying not to think about what isn’t in there.

How did you go about finding the boards?
I posted notices on such online sources as Swaylocks, Club of the Waves, The Inertia and Liquid Salt. I then begged, borrowed, and bartered for boards. It worked. They came in like a tsunami, in ones and dozens.

Did you get enough boards for the project?
Yes. At the start I had all of Fernando Aguerre’s boards that Juliana Morais shot for The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke. So there were already about 60 boards. All I had to do was find 300 more with a non-existent photo budget.

Who were some of the interesting people you met along the way?
Griff Snyder and John Mazza in Malibu have great collections and they gave me carte blanche access. From Hawaii, a guy named Greg Lui-Kwan has an epic collection of big-wave guns from balsa Curren guns in the 50s well into the 1980s. He turned over all his photos and that was wonderful. One of the boards was a Ben Aipa gun shaped for Tony Moniz in 1981. I sent the photo to Ben and Tony and Tony freaked out: “Where’s that board?! My mom sold that board for $20, 20 years ago. I almost won the Billabong on that board!” I was able to connect Tony with Greg Lui-Kwan and there was much kokua and aloha. Tony got his Aipa gun back.

Same thing with Bernie Ross, who was in The Endless Summer. John Mazza had a 10’ 6” Downing gun in his collection, and Bernie hadn’t seen that board in more than 40 years. Also Mark Fragale showed a lot of aloha allowing us to use like two dozen boards from the Honolulu Surfing Museum.

How much work was it?
The book was assigned December 19, 2012. They wanted it done by March or in three months. I’m fast, but I’m not that fast. If I had all 365 boards sorted in front of me, I don’t know if I could have written 40,000 words that fast. We did a road trip from Seattle to La Jolla in January, came back to Seattle and spent four months writing. Ten hours a day, every day, watching CNN, breathing in cigarette fumes, and getting ‘er done!

I kept a tally of all the boards and words and by the end there were 467 boards and 80,000 words. The publisher wanted it in a Minneapolis Minute, so I didn’t have time to refine it. I dumped the whole thing on them and hoped for the best. I like the layout and the editing was good. Some of their choices were good and some not so good.

Now that you have published over 16 books you must be very successful.
I barely make enough to live in a van that is about to break down on me. I know a guy in the surfing world who makes big budget commercials but is embarrassed to admit it. He did some for Ford but didn’t want anyone knowing. I said: “I have no problem with Ford. They made that van I have lived in for over a decade, and it’s still going.”

So what’s next for the book?
If the books arrive in time this week there will be a slideshow and book signing at Jed Noll’s shop in San Clemente on December 6th, then the California Surf Museum on December 7th, and finally Bird’s Surf Shed on December 8th.

The weekend after that is the Santa Barbara Surfing Museum on the 13th, Zuma Jays in Malibu on the 14th, Bank of Books in Malibu on Sunday the 15th during the day, and ZJ’s in Santa Monica that night. In Northern California, we are set for Verve Coffee Shop on Friday the 20th, the one in the Cannery on Seabright.

Anything else?
As a holiday gift, 365 Surfboards is a cool little book and will most certainly be appreciated by the surfer who has everything. Check out our 365 Surfboards Facebook page here. There will be updates about the book tour and also directions on how to buy signed copies of the book that can be mailed to you.

All photographs were provided by the author and are copyrighted and may not be used without permission. All rights reserved.

Morgan Maassen is a California surfer/photographer. At only 19 years old, Morgan has compiled a stunning portfolio, capturing that elusive moment experienced in the ocean. At the same time, he has also acquired an enviable client list. We spent some time with Morgan to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
Active and adventurous. My family, friends, dogs and I lived at the beach— skimboarding, spearfishing, surfing and swimming. My dad is a fisherman, so boating was a huge part of my childhood, be it trips to the Channel Islands or just up and down the coast. My family traveled copiously, so growing up I was fortunate to visit some very interesting places. I was also deeply obsessed with skateboarding, Lego, computers and art.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I learned how to surf on a soft top when I was seven, but I didn’t really pursue surfing as any more than a casual activity until I was about 10. Around that time, I got a David Pu’u/Morning Star shortboard, which, despite being a very awkward shape, really catapulted my interest in the sport. I also began riding my dad’s Becker longboard simultaneously, which helped foster an appreciation for all wave sizes.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I remember the day vividly. Crystal clear water, scorching hot and not a breath of wind—the perfect August beach day in Santa Barbara. My dad, two best mates and I went down to Miramar Beach, where a clean small swell was rolling through. Dad pushed me into a clean thigh high wave at an angle. I just glided along, for what felt like forever, watching the beach, water and reef below pass by. It was a surreal, indescribably-warming feeling. At the end, I jumped off onto dry sand brimming.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were younger?
My parents. They’re my biggest heroes and best friends. My two closest mates growing up, Matt Harris and Cody Traxler, are both a couple years older than me. I looked up to them not only for their qualities, but because they were always more mature than me. Nowadays, my surfing adventures are with Brandon Smith and Trevor Gordon. I couldn’t ask for more talented, humble, inspired and hilarious companions. Will Adler is, by and large, my biggest source of inspiration in the human form, and to call him a close friend is one of the greatest honors I know. On the hero scale, there was Shane Dorian, the Shorty’s team, Steve Jobs, Lee Scratch Perry and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Where did your interest in photography come from?
When I was 13, a school project requiring a mentor and their trade led me to make a small surf film with a family friend. From there, I continued to make films for fun and still do to this day. About two years ago, I decided to carry a still camera in my bag to take snaps to accompany the video I was shooting. My dad, who’s long been taking photos, encouraged me with his equipment and photography slowly grew, more and more, into a hobby and then a passion. About a year ago, I stopped filming and started shooting full time, and using the camera to explore more subjects than just my immediate interests.

What inspires you?
Everything—the ocean, art, travel, architecture, music, people, trees, cloudscapes, technology, nature, films, typography, Will Adler, literature, love, hate, simplicity, beauty, fear, ugliness, motion, light, darkness, the night, the earth, thought. I love life. I love ideas. I love emotions. I love seeing and feeling everything around me.

Tell us what you remember about your most memorable wave.
No wave nor session stands out in particular for any type of interaction with the ocean. A few weeks ago, I shot waterhousing in the morning, dodging rocks and dead seal carcasses in mocha brown water and junky storm surf in a sweeping current. The water was cold. I smashed my leg into a massive submerged washrock and I almost fell climbing up a slippery cliff when I was done. For some reason, I reflect on it as more interesting than any recent outings in the last month.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Do good. Drink tea. Never depend on applause.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I wish I had explored cameras earlier on. I look back on all the traveling I did as a child without a camera of any kind in my hands. But, in turn, that gives me so much more motivation for, and when I’m traveling with, cameras.

What are you most proud of?
My family, being drug-free, the freedom I enjoy and the people I call my friends.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has been a great catalyst for exploring the world. It’s introduced me to some of my closest friends, been a staple in my photography and filmmaking work and is such an amazing sport to partake in. Just surfing alone or with just a few friends—there is nothing like it. Such a privilege.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Travel, my family, love, our dogs, creating things.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I don’t know. I don’t follow surfing progression or politics much at all. I like to watch Dane Reynolds surf. Shane Dorian for practicing his style in everything from 2 to 60 foot waves, doing his own thing. Trevor Gordon and Brandon Smith for surfing for the right reasons—themselves. That seems like a rarity in this day and age. Almost everyone is surfing for fame, fortune and image.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I have a quiver of odd and fantastic boards from Ryan Lovelace. My yellow and blue Churchills are the apple of my eye. I love The Wedge in Newport Beach, Ke’eke shorebreak in Hawaii and a couple mysterious spots in Central California. Really anywhere with clear water tickles my fancy.

What’s your favorite meal?
Roast tomatoes, fresh fish … anything from Taqueria Rincon.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Department of Eagles, Caribou, Buck 65.

What are you most grateful for?
The places I’ve been, the people I’ve met, the things I’ve seen. My family and my life.

What’s next for Morgan Maassen?
Travel. Art. New photo projects. A film idea that keeps me up at night.

Find out more about Morgan Maassen and his work here.

Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau, directed by Sam George (Riding Giants) and produced by Stacy Peralta (Dogtown and Z-Boys), will debut Tuesday, October 1, at 8 p.m. ET on ESPN. We spoke with Sam George to learn more about his new film about the remarkable life of Eddie Aikau, the legendary big wave surfer and spiritual inspiration to the Hawaiian people.

Why make a film about Eddie Aikau? Why was this important to you?
The life and times of Eddie Aikau has never been brought to life on the screen. In that sense it’s the greatest surf story never told. But it’s also a story that illustrates the extraordinary role that surfing has played in Hawaiian history, with a cultural impact unique in all of sport. Eddie Aikau personified that remarkable relationship.

How did you get the Aikau family to agree to letting a haole from the mainland to grant you permission to create the film?
Producer Paul Taublieb and I flew to the Big Island at the request of Sol Aikau, and we met at the Pine Trees Café outside of Kona. He told us he just wanted to look us in the eye and see what sort of men we were. Sol must have seen something he liked. Either that or the fact that I ordered two scoop rice with my teri beef plate, plus macaroni salad, and established my bonafides.

What were some of the challenges in making “Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau”?
Shooting the re-enactment of the Hokule’a’s capsizing in the Kaiwi Channel proved to be a major challenge. Fortunately we had a great water unit, headed by Todd Bradley, one of the Island’s most experienced watermen, along with as Zane Aikau, Eddie’s nephew. With a crew like that I figured we could handle whatever the channel threw at us.

If you could pick one point you would want the audience to take away from the film, what would that be?
It would be that just riding big waves doesn’t make you a hero. Big wave surfers do that for fun. What makes you a hero is putting yourself in harm’s way for the sake of others, and that’s something Eddie Aikau did throughout his life, from his first day as a lifeguard on duty at Waimea Bay, to his very last moment. He cared about others, even though he had a lot of reasons not to. That’s a real hero in my book.

What are your plans for getting as many people to see this important film? Will it be available on DVD?
ESPN Films acquired the film and on October 1st it will be the premier episode of their acclaimed “30 for 30″ documentary series. Along with an extensive rotation schedule it will also be available as part of a “30 for 30″ DVD series package, all of which means that more people will seeHawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau than any other surf film since The Endless Summer.

What’s next for Sam George?
A number of projects are in development, including a film that tells the history of action sports cinematography.

From the press release:  “Eddie Would Go” is a phrase that has long carried deep meaning with countless Hawaiians and surfers worldwide.  Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau goes beyond those famous three words and chronicles the remarkable life and power of Eddie Aikau, the legendary Hawaiian big wave surfer, pioneering lifeguard and ultimately doomed crew member of the Polynesian voyaging canoe Hokule’a.  With a rich combination of archival imagery, contemporary interviews and meticulously researched historical source material, this film is a compelling exploration of the tragic decline and extraordinary re-birth of the Hawaiian culture as personified by a native son whose dynamic life and heroic death served as inspiration to an entire spiritual movement.

Beyond The Surface follows Ishita Malaviya, India’s first female surfer, traveling through Southern India, documenting the ways in which surfing, yoga, and ecological creativity are bringing hope and fueling change for the local people and the planet. She is joined by a unique and talented group of women – Liz Clark, Lauren Hill, Emi Koch, Kate Baldwin and the director of the film,Crystal Thornburg-Homcy. We spoke with Crystal to learn more.

Why was it important to make this film?
For me I think this film choose us, it really came at a time when Dave and I were really eager to make our own movie, and looking for any excuse to keep shooting with film. Growing up I have always been really passionate about learning the ways in which people connect with others, their natural environment, and their religion and/or spirituality, so I really wanted to blend those aspects with my love of art and the process of film making.

This film is important to me because I also feel that the world is on the brink of a revolution in so many ways, especially for women in India, and women in the sport of surfing. People are looking for a positive future with the way women are treated worldwide. Surfing in India is also in the beginning stages, and we really wanted to be there to document that, and the positive effects it’s having on local communities.

What were some of the challenges in getting the film completed and What did you learn from making Beyond The Surface?
We are currently in our editing stage, with a 2014 release of Beyond The Surface. We’ve had some really great challenges while making the film that had taught us a lot, because this is our first film we’ve actually gone from start to finish on our own, you could expect some spreed bumps, but for the most part I feel so blessed to have so many people supporting us along the way. Friends with insight about film making, and/or just family and friends that give us that extra push when there is a challenge has been so helpful.

This project is a great group effort, and I’m really happy that all the women involved believed in our vision and dared to join us on a wild ride through India. India can be overwhelming at times due to the culture shock, and heat, but everyone really was so enthusiastic to be part of this journey. Dave (Homcy) and I are also really grateful to the Freetheo production company for teaming up with us, and making this project happen.

Tell us what it was like surfing in India
The surf in India is so fun, and varies in all types of waves from beach breaks, to point breaks, to reef breaks. Most of the country is surrounded by coastline, so it’s really exciting to be there and learn from the locals and other travelers about different spots. There is an enormous amount of unexplored surf spots. Once we arrived at each spot men would look at us like we were crazy for going in the ocean, then after watching us surf for a while, not only were they in shocked to see a woman on a wave, but they were mesmerized. Some of these men had seen men surfing, but I think it was a first time thing to see females in the ocean and on top of it a Indian women like Ishita whom is breaking the mold for women in Indian society.

What do you want the audience to take away from the film?
More than anything I want people to feel more connected with the planet, themselves, and others around them. I also want people to question themselves, and how they sense their place in this world, and how they relate to the unknown. I’d like people to also be inspired to travel and step out of their comport zones! For me it’s the best way to know yourself, and to see the world. And, of course I hope people will be eager to grab their longboards and yoga mats to head off on an adventure!

How can we see the film?
We will be launching the film world wide through various film festivals, and other outlets. Stay in connected at the following links: Our website, Tumblr, and our Facebook page.

What’s next for Crystal Thornburg-Homcy?
When this project is complete, I’m going to focus on my ceramics, photography, and painting more, and maybe dabble in a few other film projects if it works out. I’d also like to be home for a while to work in our Crave Greens garden, and enjoy the wonderful aspects of Hawaii with family and friends.

More information about Beyond The Surface: The saturated hues of India set the scene for this documentary that will touch upon eco-tourism, youth and women’s empowerment, biocentrism and personal growth. They have integrated these causes with the pursuit of India’s perfect waves, highlighting the undeniable power of surfing as a tool to bring joy amongst suffering. Documentary-style interviews with the local Indian community, filmed by award winning cinematographer, Dave Homcy (Come Hell or High Water, Shelter, Dear and Yonder). 

All photos by  © The Beyond The Surface Crew

Chris Clark and Derrik Kapalla, are the founders of San Diego based Shaper Studios. With “Every surfer should be a shaper” as their motto, Shaper Studios offers the opportunity to learn and experience the craft of making their own board. We spoke with Chris to learn more.

What is Shaper Studios?
Shaper Studios is a tribute to the original California surf shop. It is a surfer’s clubhouse where you’ll find a community of surfers in our workshop designing new surfboards or sharing surf stories. We also have a full retail shop where you can purchase the best surf accessories and surf apparel.

What inspired you to create a space for others to make their own boards?
Derrik Kapalla and I had a very humble beginning learning how to shape surfboards in the back of his Dad’s surf shop, under the mentorship of master shaper Craig Poston. It wasn’t long after we started shaping together when the shop closed and we really had no place to go. After a few years of bouncing around from backyard shed to shared factory bays, we knew there was a serious gap that needed to be filled. My introduction to surfing was closely paralleled by an introduction to shaping. I shaped the third surfboard I ever owned, and I’m really proud to say I haven’t purchased a surfboard since. For both Derrik and I, surfboard shaping is just part of being a surfer. As surfers, we knew that shaping a surfboard was on every surfer’s checklist. We knew, from experience, that there were very few resources for surfboard shaping hobbyists. We knew we weren’t alone so we built Shaper Studios.

There are plenty of Thruster shapes out there, how do you guys do things differently?
Over the last couple of years, it has been my observation that an increasing number of surfers are feeling embarrassed about owning a thruster. This era will probably go down as the “anti-thruster revolution”. The thruster is still a very popular surfboard design, however, most of the shapes we see come out of Shaper Studios are more on the alternative side.

A lot of surfers come to Shaper Studios to make the boards that they don’t see on the rack at their local surf shops. Everything from reverse rocker logs with fabric inlays and volan cloth — to asymmetrical shortboards and fishes — and everything in between. We encourage surfers to experiment within their limits. The goal is to make boards that work and improve each surfers experience with surfing, ultimately tying that elevated experience back to the shaping bay and a white block of foam.

Tell us why San Diego is the perfect place to do this.
San Diego has a rich history of making significant contributions to surfboard design, and many of these contributions have played a key role in the evolution of the modern surfboard. The amount of inspiration and creativity between North County and South County San Diego is ridiculous. From Bob Simmons to Carl Ekstrom, from Steve Lis and Craig Poston to Skip Frye, from Steve Pendarvis to Rusty Preisendorfer. San Diego surfers know the history well and they are always seeking to learn more.

In the short amount of time we’ve been in business, Shaper Studios has given well over 400 surfers the opportunity to shape their first surfboard. This means we now have that many more educated surfers in the water who better understand and really appreciate the craft of board building.

What is the process and what is involved in the instruction?
The process to get started is simple. You schedule a shaping lesson with an instructor and the two of you build your first surfboard together. Once you feel comfortable, and you’re ready to start shaping on your own, we have a membership program that works exactly like a gym. One flat monthly membership rate gets you unlimited access to our professional facilities and equipment. The instruction is also simplified. We have a step-by-step process for teaching shaping that has been proven by hundreds of happy customers.

What does the customer take with them when they have completed their board?
Every surfer leaves Shaper Studios wanting to learn more. There is no way we can share everything we know about surfboards with someone in a single session. We encourage all of our customers to become students of surf craft… and to take lots of photos to share on social media.

What’s next for Shaper Studios?
We have a team of some of the best advisors on the planet working with us to develop the next few phases of growth and expansion. There are some very exciting projects in motion behind the scenes, however, right now all of our focus is on creating the best experience possible for our customers. We just launched our newest flagship location in North Park San Diego. North Park is our favorite San Diego neighborhood and an epicenter of creative businesses, not to mention all the best bars.

To learn more about Shaper Studios and how you can get into a shaping room to make your own board, click here. All photographs courtesy of Shaper Studios. 

Timothy Hogan is a surfer/photographer who has taken on the important and Herculean task of documenting the history of the surfboard fin and its pivotal role in the evolution of surfing and surfboard design. He calls it theFINproject. We spoke with Timothy to learn more.

What is it in particular about “the fin” that fascinates you so much?
They’re iconic! I love craftsmanship, design, and the stories behind objects. There is definitely a story behind each fin and people have this amazing memory and fondness for fins. Fins bring up a lot of memories. People see one of the photographs and exclaim, “I had a fin like that!.” – just before launching into a story. There is a shared passion around the fin, and there is a lot of longevity to them as well — they last longer than boards. And, quite simply, I just love the form and the way light goes through the foil. theFINproject is about taking all of the things I’m drawn to and combining them with the minimal photographic style that I’ve developed.

What kind of research did you do?
Ha. None at first. My original set of photographs was just meant to be a series of graphic pictures. But I sensed a deeper story, and as the project has evolved – my eyes have been opened to the importance of the fin. It’s the driving force in surfing’s progression– the evolution of surfing has come directly from evolution of the fin.

What are your plans for theFINproject?
First off is continuing the photographic study. We’ve photographed around 80 images and I bet we’re only a tenth of the way there. It’s becoming a bit of an obsession. In the end, we’ll create a photographic book, gallery show and documentary film on the history and evolution of the fin.

Tell us about your documentary on fins
Well, the photographic study is about fins as objects, while the documentary is about the innovators and their stories. One conversation with Larry Alllison and I knew I had to shoot a documentary on the personalities behind the fins. Greenough, Simon Anderson, the Campbell Brothers – they are all problem solvers. They are united in the fact that they thought – and continue to think differently – and I’m personally fascinated by the inventor’s brain.

Simmons and Greenough’s motivations are different than someone like Simon Anderson’s – winning competitions. However they were all forward thinking and they all made defining developments in surfing. The documentary is about honoring the innovators who have been overlooked in surfing culture.

Fin setups are also crucial to the development of the surfboard…
Yes, they’re completely interdependent. Every feature of a board has to relate in harmony with the others – as any good shaper will tell you — and this obviously includes the fin. Especially with regards to the Bonzer –the channels are directly linked direct water flow around the fins in a synergistic fashion.

Where does the trend toward finless boards fit into your project?
Derek Hynd is actually on our short list to talk to. He’s of course the first person I think of when it comes to frictionless. There is obviously a counterpoint to every theory, and I’m looking forward to his perspective.

Are you doing any comparisons with the natural world such as sharks, fish,etc?
Of course early fins were aeronautically inspired – airplane tails and such. Greenough then went and took inspiration from the natural world in his high-aspect ratio flex fins. And there’s been some interesting experiments and success with whale tubercles. As usual, I’m sure we have lots we can learn from nature.

I’m also really eager to explore measured hydrodynamic tests vs. what you “feel” on a board. There is only so much one can test in a tank. There’s no way to take into account rider input, the impact of the board itself and on and on. I think there are things you can test for and then there is the real world of “it either feels right or it doesn’t.”

Handcrafted or Made in China fins?
This is such a major issue. As surfers we spend a lot of time, energy and money in supporting local shapers, but how many of us apply that care to fins? There are two camps on this issue: machine made or craftsman. I guess that most of us look at fins as a replaceable commodity, but the fact is there are a lot of very talented craftspeople making beautiful fins by hand today who’s livelihood is threatened by our ambivalence. That said, there are things you can do on a machine that are just impossible to create by hand. It’s a very pertinent and timely topic to explore.

What have you photographed so far?
We’ve only scratched the surface! I’d say we’ve shot about 80 boards and fins as of now. I’d like to do about 10 times that. My favorite board so far is Dale Velzy’s first polyurethane foam board from Surfing Heritage and Cultural Center. Working with Barry Haun and Paul Strauch has been incredible. They have such an amazing collection and I’m stoked for the opportunity to work closely with them.

Tell us a bit about yourself.
I grew up in northeastern Connecticut and went to school in upstate NY –at Syracuse. I moved to New York City and did the commercial photography thing for 12 years before moving to LA. I still shoot commercially, but moving out here (Venice, CA) was a lifestyle choice. I was raised nowhere near the ocean but every year my folks would rent this house on Fortunes Rocks Beach in Maine. I would bodysurf for hours – and especially enjoyed going over the falls in snow inner tubes. It was freezing! But seriously – I didn’t care. I would be in the water 6 hours at a time without a wetsuit. I didn’t start surfing until high school, mostly in Rhode Island. I still have my first board – a 1968 Bing Australian Foil.

What kind of surfing do you like to do?
I’m mostly a traditional longboarder. Typically a single fin pintail– a 9’4 Hanley,that I have broken in half (twice) because of a crappy light glass job on it. I just love this board. I had it repaired and it broke the very first session so I fixed it myself and it hasn’t broken since, but it looks like crap. It is a low rockered board with a kind of pulled in pintail, 50/50 rails, super mellow nose concave – it’s just one of those magic boards! I’m also super stoked on my Putnam / Hilbers SOS for Malibu. It’s probably the fastest longboard I’ve ever ridden.

Where do you go from here?
Back to the computer to spread the word! We’re halfway through our Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for the first part of the film. It’s very important that we get shooting this winter to capture the North Shore season, so we’re hoping to make come magic happen over these next two weeks and come out the door with a big win.

To do so we need the support of the surfing community, large and small to back the project directly and indirectly via just sharing it on social media. You can find the project on Kickstarter here. I hope everyone reading this article checks it out and clicks the share links below the video! Then, if you have the means, back our project. In return, our rewards feature some amazing, Kickstarter Exclusive artwork that won’t be available ever again, so get in now!

And we’re currently building our production team for the documentary, actively looking for great collaborators. Anyone who’s interested should reach out and send me an email to tim@theFINproject.net if you’d like to get involved in making this story come to life.

Chronicling one of the most important times of surfing history, Australian photographer and surfer John Witzig faithfully captures with words and pictures the ethos of the Shortboard Revolution. Those were exciting times, a “golden age” as the title of his new book suggests, when surfboards evolved from ten feet to six feet in a short span of a few years. "It’s fortunate that as many of the ’60s photos survived as they did since a lot got lost. I was always something of an amateur archivist, and I was aware that things were happening around me, especially in the mid-1960s." says Witzig.

It didn’t hurt that Witzig also happened to be friends with Bob McTavish, George Greenough, Nat Young, and Wayne Lynch. Being able to comfortably photograph these subjects adds to the intimacy of the images. Whereas brother Paul Witzig’s Hot Generation, Evolution, and Sea of Joy showed us a moving glimpse of the era, John’s photos suspend the moment and sear into our consciousness an image like Headless McTavish, a breathtaking grainy black and white image of Bob literally involving himself in the curl (page 76).

A beautifully illustrated volume (the publisher is Rizzoli, a well respected coffee table art book publisher) with 208 pages of mostly photographs either in black and white with sepia or full technicolor, Witzig warmly supplies the captions to the imagery in a breezy, personal style. Witzig notes, "I wanted to be as true to them and to the times as I could. I didn’t want the captions to be from an objective observer and I was encouraged to write from the point of view of a participant."

Like waves, the book’s chapters are delivered in sets with colorful titles as Road Tripping, Revolution, Country Soul, and Iconoclasts. They are given breathing space, or lulls, to present commentaries by some of the most respected surf writers and commentators of our time – Steve Pezman, Dave Parmenter, Nick Carroll, Drew Kampion, and the late Mark Cherry.

In an age of blogs and Instagram, where youth can easily capture their surfing lives with pixels and uploads, it's hard to imagine that Witzig committed each of his iconic images to a single frame on something made from tiny particles of silver exposed to light that needed to be handled carefully and processed in the dark. Like hand shaping a surfboard, developing photographic film and making prints was a time consuming process. This fact alone makes Witzig's photographs even more astonishing.

There are many things to love about this book: the physical size, the gorgeous photography and printing, the wonderful writing, and the appearance of our most beloved surfing heroes. But most of all, it is Witzig who makes this book a real  treasure as he imbues it with a genuine abundance of both heart and soul. Every surfing devotee and surf history buff owes it to themselves to find a place for Witzig’s A Golden Age in their library.

by Larry Cecil

John Cherry is a California surfer/shaper and master craftsman who was inspired and influenced by the work of such legends as Velzy, Bing, and Terry Martin. Starting with his first Balsa board, John has been creating beautiful custom wood projects for over 25 years. We spoke with John to learn more.

What was it like growing up? What hooked you on surfing?
My dad introduced me to surfing in about 1959, just as the experimentation with foam boards was beginning. The first board my dad brought home for me was new, 8’, Balsa Velzy-Jacobs. Dad started surfing in 1957 in Hermosa Beach. It is where I started surfing as well. During the late ‘50s and early ‘60s I also looked forward to the occasional weekend trips with my dad and his wife Joan, who was also a dedicated surfer, to San-O or Doheny in our station wagon packed with siblings and numerous boards lashed on top. During that time my dad and Hap Jacobs were good friends and frequent surfing companions. For most of the ‘60s the family rode Hap’s boards pretty much exclusively.

When did you know that you wanted to make surfboards?
Back then we had a small shop downstairs, under the back portion of the house. I remember the intrigue of that place when my dad and friends were there repairing boards or occasionally glassing a ship’s wooden hatch cover that had washed ashore to use as a coffee table. I loved the vibe and the smell of the resin. I’m sure it was then that I became hooked on the notion of building surfboards and any other craft that related to an ocean lifestyle.

When I actually made a decision to shape a surfboard, it happened in 1978 when my younger brother Frank walked into my house in Cardiff with a longboard under his arm – one that he had shaped and glassed himself. Compared to the outrageous prices that shops were starting to charge for boards (DT was asking almost $400 for his boards at the time and I was quite fond of them) the cost Frank told me was most attractive, about $125. That week I went to Mitch’s in La Jolla and bought a Yater longboard blank, glass, resin and a fin box, and built some shaping stands. Grandpa Cherry gave us the cash to get a power planer and we were in business. Cherry Surfboards was born but with no intention of developing a retail business. Frank and I shaped and rode our own boards as well as shaping boards for our surf buddies from then on.

What prompted you to start working with wood?
After I had been shaping for about 23 years I had still never built and shaped a balsa board but the desire to do so had been strong for quite some time. In 2000 my late wife Susan must have grown tired of hearing me say, “I really want to build and shape a balsa board some time.” That Christmas she presented me with a gift certificate to Frost Hardwood Lumber, the sole source of balsa for surfboards in San Diego County, and told me to go get the wood and build my balsa board. Although I had imagined the process all the time I was thinking I should build one I realized when it was time to start that I was not certain about many aspects of the project. I also realized that I lacked a few of the major tools required to execute the project. Fortunately I had access to advice and instruction from one of the best builders and shapers in the industry. Susan’s older brother, my brother in law was Hobie’s head shaper, Terry Martin. I had Terry on the phone many times during the build when I had questions or just needed assurance that I was on the right track and Terry was a treasure trove of the right information and experience. I had to borrow a bandsaw to do some of the work and I took my blank sections to a cabinet shop to have them thickness planed to my width specifications. The rest I was able to accomplish in my shop. With Terry’s guidance I built, shaped and glassed a very respectable 9–0 balsa gun with three redwood stringers. The lacewood single fin I crafted for the board was the first fin of my career. Shortly after I finished the board I had the opportunity to ride it in big California surf. I was thrilled and amazed at the speed, the glide momentum, the sound of the wood on the water and the view of the balsa under my feet. I was hooked on the beauty and the ride of wooden boards. Since then I have built many wood boards for myself and for clients.

Tell us about the first wood surfboard you shaped.
Building my first wood board also awakened in me a passion for wood as a design element in custom boards that had long been dormant. Growing up as a very young surfer in the early 60’s I was always enamored with the beautiful woodcraft that guys like Gordie, Bing, Jacobs, Velzy, Noll, Wardy, Holden and many others of note incorporated into their board designs. It represented for them a mark of excellence in craftsmanship and quality that they wished their names and logos to be noted for. In many cases their informally proprietary designs and templates of wood fins and stringer designs could identify a board to its maker from 200 yards away. As the short board era began and the longboard faded from the mainstream surf scene in the 70 and 80s, so faded the use of hand crafted wood art as a key element in surfboard design.

I guess it never really faded for me. Soon after I completed my first balsa board and solid wood single fin I was compelled to build a second balsa board. I purchased a bandsaw, a table saw and a thickness planer. I began building a 10’3 classic longboard shape for myself. It was chambered with five 1/8” stringers evenly spaced across the blank… I decided it needed a classic reverse “D” fin with a checkered panel design. I still ride it. It weighs 25 lbs.

It was at this same time that I decided I no longer wanted to glass my own boards as I had done for the past 25 or so years. When the 10–3 was finished I decided to take it to Moonlight glassing to do the glass work, except for the fin which I laid up, including an old-school, heavy bead around the edges. Moonlight did a superb job glassing it.

More importantly, the board and fin got a lot of attention while it was at Moonlight being glassed. When I picked the board up Peter St Pierre asked me if I could do a few sets of twin fins in wood with similar designs for him. I agreed to do so. The boards that followed led to more orders which led to more orders still. As months passed and orders for fins and for my boards started coming more frequently, I realized that a viable business was being created for me. I decided to invest in tools and machines to complete my wood shop and shaping facility and to retire from my 25 year county job. I retired in 2004 and established as a full time business Cherry Surfboards and John Cherry Woodcraft. Today I create projects upon request only from individual customers and I still approach each project as a one-off work of handcraftsmanship, mindful that it is very special to the customer who is requesting it. As I have found it necessary to be in the shop or the shaping bay full time for a few years now, I guess the business paradigm is working.

Which type of wood do you most enjoy working with to produce surfboards and/or fins and why.
In addition to appreciating that a viable business has been created for me from something I used to wait anxiously to come home and play with on weekends, my woodcraft keeps me ever entertained and amazed with the natural beauty variety of the woods I work with.
Peruvian walnut is as dark as a roasted coffee bean. Holly is as white as parchment paper. There are a million shades and earth tones in between. Flame Maple and quilted Maple have 3-D ripple effects in their grain and Hawaiian Koa, the king of woods in my opinion, has almost all of the above with its variation of color and pattern and an iridescence to its grain that turns on and off as the direction of the sun’s light changes across it relative to the direction of the grain. The design possibilities they provide are limitless. No two projects are ever alike.

Which shaper, past or present, do you most identify with?
I must humbly admit that for the first 25 years of my shaping career I was even further from the mainstream surfboard industry than might be considered “underground”. I taught myself to shape based on a good feel for tools in general, an eye for symmetry, and an intuitive sense of what shapes or contours worked where in a shaped surfboard based on riding them for many years before I ever picked up a planer. But I had always shaped for the pure joy of shaping and riding the boards that I made or the joy of shaping for a friend if he popped for the glass, the resin, and the blank. Until I started taking my boards to Moonlight, shortly after I married Susan Martin and met Terry Martin, I really had no connections within the world of professional shapers.

Who or what has had the greatest influence on your life and why?
I was considered by all that knew me an accomplished shaper by that time. But what I learned over a few years as I spent time in the shaping bay with Terry Martin definitely brought by skills to a higher level. He taught me a better understanding of the shaping process, how to truly see the board through its stages in the shaping bay and numerous other tricks of the trade. Hobie rightly called Terry, “The best shaper on the planet” That is of course subjective and perhaps debatable. What places me on the affirmative side of that assertion is Terry’s nature as person in addition to his skill which earned him the nickname “ The Machine”. In spite of his legend status in the surfing world and his self awareness as one of the great shapers Terry remained truly humble and generous with his knowledge. I have been present more than once to see Terry invite a complete stranger into his shaping bay for a lengthy session of “Shaping 101” if he sensed after meeting them that they had a true desire to learn. I know Terry retained the stoke with each and every one of the 80,000 + boards he shaped and he remained equally stoked and interested in what others around him were creating. I learned much more than that which relates to shaping from Terry. If I could be just like someone when I grow up… it would undoubtedly be him.

My friend Rich Pavel, also a close friend of Terry’s, is another shaper who has had a tremendous influence on my approach to shaping and my eye for the finished board as it relates to performance. Much of this came from discussion. Even more came from observation and from riding the result of what I observed. Rich has an amazing, innate talent of blending the right foils of blank and rail with subtle bottom contours to produce ultimate-performance boards at any length or style – that are also user friendly from the first trip down the line.

Can you tell us about your work with The Wounded Warriors?
Recently I have been involved with the Wounded Warriors Surf Camp in Del Mar, California, Operation-Amped at Camp Pendleton and K-2 Foundation. All three organizations are focused on providing surfing as an uplifting and healing experience for
disabled vets and in the case of the K-2 Foundation, civilians as well. During the last two years I designed and shaped two special boards to provide leg amputees a platform which allows them to more easily capture and enjoy the true essence of surfing, that being the feeling of being one with the speed and motion of the wave on a fast board that they can more easily paddle and control when they are riding.

What is your current state of mind?
My current state of mind and focus regarding building and shaping surfboards and making fins, is much the same as it has always been since I started shaping in the mid-1970s. I have always enjoyed building and shaping boards, crafting custom fins or crafting any project that relates to the surfing world with a specific individual’s requests or a specific aesthetic goal of my own in mind – as opposed to a business plan designed to grab my share of the market or become well known by repeating multiples of anything. It has been a continued series of one-off projects combining art and function for friends and specific clients in my surfing community. Today I am blessed that my community extends worldwide.

Any regrets?
At this point in my life I really have no regrets. In the beginning my only goal was to learn the board building craft and be able to produce shop-quality boards of my own imagination for myself and my surfing buddies. The evolution of my craft, besides my own drive as a bit of a perfectionist, has come about through the aloha and support of the surf community and in the later years through the generous sharing of information with me by many other talented individuals in the surf industry. I feel blessed and grateful.

With this in mind and realizing that in this day there are really no “trade secrets” I do enjoy very much sharing what I have learned from others as well as the few methods I feel that I have personally developed, with like minded and right-hearted newcomers to this fulfilling art and craft.

What does the future hold for John Cherry Surfboards?
The future? At this point in my life a change is occurring. I am entering a mode of new retirement and attempting to dial back the volume of work I am doing. Last year I was blessed with a beautiful new woman in my life, Lauren Lee, now Lauren Lee Cherry. I still accept orders and commissions, just fewer. Although I will always be compelled to shape and create other art in wood I am looking forward to spending more time enjoying the ocean first hand and hitting the open road as I choose with my wife Lauren and our furry, four-legged kids.

Find out more about John Cherry and his woodcraft here. Photos courtesy of John Cherry. All rights and copyrights are reserved by the respective owners and may not be used without permission.

After a successful Kickstarter initiative back in 2011, surf historian and noted author Matt Warshaw and his team set out to put the print version of the esteemed Encyclopedia of Surfing into an online, interactive experience onto the interwebs. Almost two years later, with the new site set to launch next week, we caught up with Matt and asked him a few questions about this massive undertaking.

What can readers expect from the online Encyclopedia of Surfing versus the print version?
You know how in the Wizard of Oz, when Dorothy’s house slams down after the tornado, and she opens the door and everything goes from black and white to color? That’s EOS online compared toEOS in print. The book had a few tiny little B&W photos, like every third page maybe. Last time I checked we’d loaded about 500 vid clips and 5,000 images onto the site. Hall-of-fame stuff, too all of it. Brewer, Divine, Neville, Steele, Bruce Brown, Severson, Stoner, Delaney, the Bielmanns, Merkel, Burkard, Doc Ball, MacGillivray, Witzig, Flame, Gilley, Grannis, Taras, Griffin, Ron Church, Don James, Ryan Miller, Servais, Peralta, Campbell, Glaser, on and on. I could’ve built another four encyclopedia websites and not get to the end of how much good stuff I’ve got. The site is nothing without the photographers and filmmakers, and I love them all for contributing.

What were some of the challenges or issues you came up against while making it?
All those years when I was writing books, I totally ignored social media, wasn’t online much, had zero internet tech skills. Now I can kind of fake my way through the whole process. Make video clips, mess around with photos, maintain the site.

Jumping onto Twitter, even though it’s not directly related to EOS, was a really big deal for me. It was terrifying at first. Writing anywhere else, I’ll edit and re-edit like 10 times before putting it out there. Twitter made me to loosen up, which was the best thing to happen to my writing since Strunk and White. My feed isn’t great, but it doesn’t suck. Learning anything new at my age feels so incredibly good, and I had to learn like 50 new things to get the site up.

How are you feeling about it now that is is finally ready to launch?
Sort of like when I was driving Jodi to the hospital after her water broke. Like walking on a trail next to a cliff with five shots of espresso in me.

What’s next for Matt Warshaw?
Lunch and nap right now, launch the site next Monday, re-learn how to surf in 2014.

Check out the new, online Encyclopedia of Surfing when it goes live on Monday, September 30, 2013. Photography by Chris Burkhard. Matt Warshaw’s latest book, The History of Surfing is available here.

Beau Young is an Australian singer/songwriter and a World Champion surfer. With the legendary Nat Young as his father, Beau was born with saltwater in his veins and a natural gift for wave riding. Recently, Beau is offering up his own signature line of surfboard designs. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
The first few years of my life were spent living on a farm in the middle of nowhere.When I got a little older, Mum and Dad were separating, so I spent my time in a quite a few different places. Holidays on the North Coast with Dad, weekdays with Mum, weekends with both of them in Sydney where they went back (after Byron Bay) in an attempt to make their marriage work.

On North Coast holidays, I specifically remember we used to leave for a surf break in the middle of the night, arriving at Angourie or some place similar at daybreak. My sister and I would look for shells on the beach and play games while my dad surfed. Days were spent in the sun and we would get back to the farm tired and sore from playing at the beach. We would put aloe vera (sticky stuff) all over our faces and backs before bed because we were so sunburnt and wake the next morning for the same kind of holiday fun. Simple times.

I grew up surfing in Sydney at a place called Palm Beach. There is a tiny little wave in a sheltered cove next to an ocean pool that creates a break called “Kiddies Corner.” Many times I was late to school forgetting my shoes and wearing dads giant flip flops, kinda like the oddball surf kid.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first surfboard around the age of 6. I was surfing before I could swim. But I was really timid for a long time when it came to the sea. The water scared me and it took time to realise how amazing it was. My first real wave was ridden on my father’s back. My first surfboard was a foam board with a plastic fin and my first real fiberglass board was a board Dad had broken and re-shaped for me.

To be honest I wasn’t really that into surfing until I was about 10 years old, I’d had a couple of close to drowning situations and I didn’t really think the ocean was my thing. Ti, my stepmum, got me into understanding the ocean. She would take me beyond the breakers, and holding onto her back, we would push through the waves and I could feel their energy and amount of power, and I slowly began to understand and welcome it.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
When I first understood how truly magical surfing was, I would get home from school and just stay in the water until the moon was high in the sky. I would literally catch hundreds of tiny waves, they were probably only 6 inches high, but they had enough propulsion to carry somebody my size. Most afternoons I was the only one out. I cannot even explain the sensation of surfing or what it gives. I really cannot describe the connectedness you feel with something so much bigger than you or I. I always look at indigenous cultures and their understanding of nature and the natural world that connects them to the bigger spirit and force. Surfing is grounding and completely confounding in terms of what it gives.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Hmm… that’s a good question. I have always spent time with people generally a fair bit older than myself. Jim McGuinness is like another father to me, he looks after my dad’s farm, he has been there since 1970, before that he sold organic vegetable in Byron door-to-door. My dad always said JIm was one of the greatest surfers he had ever seen. Jim always shunned competitions, surfed alone, and he can make anything work when it comes to machinery and living and surviving on the land without “The Man.” One of my favourite and simplest yet most complex individuals I know.

I haven’t seen Skip Frye since this time, but when I was 12 years old I was in Bells Beach with Dad and Skip. He was just such a nice guy. I didn’t know anything about him except he was just a really a good human being. He had a pair of Converse shoes on and I’d always wanted to get myself a pair (later I did) but he had a quote for those shoes which I have never forgotten: “No slip no slide, and a smooth glide, the shoes with the star on the side.” Also he talked so highly of his wife Donna. I always really admired that, it reminds me of how my step dad Kevin has always revered my mother Marilyn, and I really think that is a tremendous quality in a person.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Wild out of the way Indonesia just for the sheer beauty of the waves. I would also say France and Italy, more for their history and cultures than anything else, great people very family orientated. I also consider Japan like a second home. They are great people – very Zen.

Who/what inspires you?
I am inspired by a lot of different things: colours conjure emotions and feelings just like different guitar chords do. I find that kind of stuff amazing… they inspire me. These days I’m inspired by goodwill, giving and caring individuals. All the many charities out there that look out for children and animals. The people behind the scenes are my inspiration. They are the champions. My grandmother was always very charity driven, my step grandmother also. It is not the ones on the “silver screen” that I look up to so much (though they are very very gifted) – it’s the ones in the trenches fighting for human rights, our environment, and the creatures that dwell on this earth. Writing animal songs for children, I am very aware that a large percent of our animal populace are on the brink and it cuts to my core. I am saddened and have been very inspired by the likes of these fellows who are no longer with us: JJ Cale, George Harrison, Warren Zevon and the late great Donald Takayama. There are many more, obviously, but these guys were the first ones springing to mind.

Tell us about your music. What are you hoping the listener will connect with?
I think my music is hard to box in. I am not country, not surf, not rock, not kids and not folk.
I like to see all things that I do in that same way. I have always been that way with surfing and different boards because it is all so amazing. I would like my music to take the listener on a journey, I want them to long for home, long for travel, feel the ocean breeze, see the setting sun, dance the crazy animal dance to a Rhino song with a giant rock drum sound. In summary, music should conjure many emotions, with a lot of sound or sparse instrumentation – music should make you feel.

You are now selling your own surfboard shapes. What led you to that?
Making my own surfboard designs has always been there. To be honest, for over 30 years of surfing on a hugely varied amount of surf craft, I thought it was about time. Since a very young age I have been designing boards with shapers and I have always loved that process. Visions turn into reality. For years and years, friends have been saying I should make my own range of boards. I have always been the kind of person that really searches for the right style of board for the right conditions etc. Now I feel there is a quiver of boards that most definitely cover all aspects of wave riding.

I am really excited to be hands-on staying inside surfing with these board designs. For example, I had always had Japanese and European surf sponsors so the boards were available in those countries. I can finally get my boards all over the globe now to places like America, New Zealand and Brazil – and they won’t be costing the Earth.

It is really cool to be able to stay involved. Just because I live on a farm with my dog and am a virtual hermit, doesn’t mean I dont surf just as much now as I used to! I think my Dad is the same really, he has always wanted to stay involved.

My dad (Nat Young), Bob McTavish, George Greenough they had that time they called “The Involvement Period.” I feel I am going through my own mini “Involvement Period” with these designs. Dad has given me his blessings on a couple of genuine shapes from his earlier surfing years, I could not be more honored. Separate from him being my dad, I think there never will be a better all around display of longboarding than his in San Diego in 1966. To be able to make a board very similar to the one he rode at that time and with his agreement is beyond belief, like I said the loving father son thing is one thing, but his amazing surfing on that board at that time is a separate thing all together!

I think at this age of nudging 40, My surfing has really developed and I have a lot to give with these shapes. From the beginner surfer to the highly advanced surfer, I just want to see people happy and enjoying the sea.

What are you most proud of?
To be honest I am most proud of Animals Rock. Having a ton of kids rocking out and having a good time with their families to music that is real, honest and fun. Without even realising it, kids are learning so much about these beautiful creatures, the habitat, diet, weight, colour etc. For me, getting kids in touch with nature and the natural planet is something I am most proud of.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
Surfing should ideally be like how Miki Dora described it. Letting all your troubles on land fade away once you paddle out. Surfing is another time and space – I find it easy to forget that now and then. Ultimately it really is a place (for me) for solitude and tapping into the moving natural world.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Being healthy and alive. As my dad always says “Make it a beautiful life”. When my grandmother was going to a higher place she held my hand and said “Love every minute”.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I am not really up to date with who is doing what in surfing. I tend to look to the past within surfing and music for my appreciation artistically speaking. From what I am aware of in regards to making a push for immediate change, I think Dave Rastovich is out there practising what he preaches and that is fantastic. It can seem so overwhelming when you look at the World and what essentially humans are screwing up, but everyone counts – everyone. We all have a voice.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
My favourite board right now would have to be The Cloudwalker. The Cloudwalker is a 9’4″ singlefin longboard. This board was designed to be able to work amazingly in the smallest of waves. It is designed to fly even on the smallest of wave surfaces. So many times I have been in tiny waves and felt that the board simply did not plane to its maximum potential. From years of small wave riding I have ironed out the bugs and got a splendid board that turns, noserides, and trims with ease. Magic boards are rare and unlike a guitar (which gets better the more you play it) surfboards lose their memory and life. Now I know I can get the same fast moving responsive board once the old one has passed its used by date. I have a Takayama board I rode for 12 years and unfortunately I can’t get one of those again. Magic boards are hard to come by.

I like George Greenough’s philosophy when it comes to surfing, “Any chance you get to have a paddle is a great one”. In reality, I don’t have a favourite surf spot – I just like to get out there: 1 foot and onshore or 10 feet high and perfect.

What’s your favorite meal?
Nachos, pizza and mangoes… but not at the same time.

What’s next for Beau Young?
To leave the farm, get out there, and be more of a sociable animal. For too long I have been alone. I want to continue to create music and surfboards and get it to my wider group of friends. What’s next is to always be conscious of making every minute of this life amazing. Thanks.

To learn more about Beau Young Surfboards click here. To learn more about his music project Animals Rock, click here. Photography courtesy of Beau Young Surfboards.

by Marvin Selga

Hailing from Cape Town, South Africa, Donald Brink is a talented surfer and humble board builder now living in San Clemente, California. In our latest interview, Donald shares his influences and experiences that have helped shape the meaning of his personal philosophy, “Enjoy Your Water.”

How were you introduced to surfing?
In a sense, I really wasn’t introduced to surfing but the first time I remember seeing it I knew I wanted to do that. My family didn’t live on the coast but we spent many vacations there. Those times offered a wonderful opportunity to discover this fascinating new world of the ocean. Much later when I was 15, our family moved to Cape Town and I couldn’t have been happier. Before we arrived, there I was already off and running, under my own steam, to figure out surfing on my own. I had bought a water-skiing wetsuit from an ad in the newspaper not knowing the differences but wanted to be prepared. I didn’t know what I was doing but I knew I wanted to do it.

Do you remember first surfboard and/or wave?
Oh definitely! Within two days of our family arriving to Cape Town, I had a surfboard. I clearly, clearly remember everything about it. In fact, I could probably shape one today with my eyes closed because of how fondly I remember it. It was an older Spider Murphy model, under the Safari label, given to me by some friends in the area. The board is around 6’2” with a faded green deck spray and blue wedge band tapering nose to tail on it. It was pretty much a 1980’s, flat deck thruster, with a downed rail, soft bump through the tail, foam core thruster fins and had a bottom that was a pretty much a flat panel V through the tail. This was my first surfboard and that’s all I had and that’s all I knew.

On a recent trip back to South Africa, I went about finding the board since I had given it back to the family when I moved away. I wanted to get a hold of it so that I could look at the board and restudy it. Visions of reliving those early sensations with today’s experience to enjoy it more, yet as a treasured first love. Once I had it in my hands, I knew I had to take it out! I paddled out at one of my favorite reefs wearing only a Farmer John wetsuit, water was in the 48-50F neighborhood and the wind must have been blowing 25–30 knots. This wave had a critical section on takeoff and ran down this small point into a beachy cove. At the right tide, you could really get a poor man’s J-Bay feel. Although I only planned to get 4–5 waves in this session, I was able to relive some of the youthful sensations of learning to surf, being exposed to the elements yet being part of these angry waves. Years later, learning to control the flow of speed and energy, all at the same time looking to have fun and being safe.This is surfing.

This board became good point of reference for my surfing because everyday I was surfing pretty meager waves on my own. Most of the time, the conditions were strong onshore winds and the waves were fairly punchy; nothing considered to be lined up and easy to ride. The board had a lot of buoyancy and the flat deck allowed me to get into waves earlier and also allowed me to paddle into bigger waves, too. It wasn’t until I finished school that I was able to start making my way around the country and local peninsula in Cape town and began to experience the real variety of the waves on offer. I moved to J-Bay at one point to play drums in a band there but also because I knew the depths of the potential that stretch of coast had to offer from shapers, waves and coastal lifestyle. Jason Enevoldsen, my good Australian friend, showed me the ropes both in the water and on shore there and they are some of the most treasured memories for all sorts of simple reasons and deep ones too. Miss you, Buddy.

What was it about surfing that made you want to become a shaper?
Throughout life, I’ve been fascinated by design and art. Discovering the way things are put together and the mechanics of how something was built or how it worked was just inherent in my nature. Wanting to understand how these different boards worked came from the first time I traded boards with a guy out in the water. He was riding a bladed out Jeffreys Bay design, a full mid-Nineties chippy short board. I was able to catch waves but I noticed that the board really sank and didn’t get going like the Spider Murphy did. Later on, I met a shaper and after a couple of meetings, he realized that I was more intrigued with his design ramblings than most others. I don’t remember the title, but he lent me a book on the basic principles, practices and elements of a surfboard and how they work. I remember reading that book and most of the stuff going over my head at that time, but I started to get a sense that the details in what goes into making a “good” surfboard was incredibly complex. It helped me understand how the many little things come together into making something magic.

Shaping a surfboard, for me, is expressing yourself accurately so that those details really matter when it comes down to the few seconds of a ride in whatever that session has to offer. It’s unlike a lot of things in life where you spend all this time, months, years or however long it is, applying yourself to get to a place where a performance is so critical, at intervals a few seconds at a time. It’s not like anything else I really know. I like discovering the details of that “something” that made a board special and even though it may have not been perfect (I’ve come to learn that for sure!) it was the sum of the parts that just turned into an amazing experience for the right person, on the days it’s most often used. That is why I shape surfboards.

Tell us about your relationship with Terry Martin.
I actually didn’t meet Terry through surfing. Years ago, I was traveling the world with a Christian rock band and we eventually got signed. During that time, our old bass player invited us to his wedding, in San Clemente. I met a lot of great people at his wedding, some of them were connected to the surfing community. When they found out that I was interested in surfing and shaping, they told me that I had to meet Terry. Years later, I ended up working for his son Josh, doing construction work, and that was the time I got to know the Martin family. My relationship with Terry was probably less about surfboards than most people think it was. Don’t get me wrong, we talked a lot about rails and rockers and so on and so forth. But, he was never the one to pick up a board and be like, “Oh, you should have done this.” Or, “I’ve seen that you’ve incorporated this.” He was just so encouraging. He was into surfboards and he knew I was. We shared that and it brought us together.

Terry’s excitement for somebody else who was excited about the same things he was, that’s what made us really hit it off and get along. Besides surfboards, we’d always be tinkering on something. I’ll never forget the one day he came to me after he had whittled these crazily dangerous large wooden darts with these steel tips on them. They looked like bombs of an old wars era that could fall to the ground and ruin. He came into the shop with the darts and was trying to figure out how to put feathers on them as flights. I came up with another plan of putting this foiled tape on them. Doing those things together, it felt like we were kids at times. His youthful spirit was so infectious that I made it a golden rule that when Terry’s van pulled up, I would stop what I was doing because I never knew where the conversation would go or what would come out of it. These moments were electrifying and I never wanted to miss a nuance. We became very close and shared a lot of time together. He would stop by in the morning on his way to shape to check on what I was working on and come back later in the afternoon to see how things came out. We would have quick, impromptu visits that would lend discussions to deeper things. We spent a lot of time talking about incredibly deep things in life that we both found fascinating and that’s what took our relationship to a level of impact.

What I take away from this relationship was the confidence he gave when someone would share their brave thoughts. He wouldn’t back up the ideas or tell you how to do things. Rather, he made you confident in what you were doing. That seems to be something fairly rare in the world. You don’t get inspired like that by a lot of people but from Terry, I did. He was there for me and was always interested in the details. He was definitely involved in my life. I miss him dearly, every day.

How have you translated his influence into your shaping?
As I mentioned, Terry gave you confidence in your own thoughts. I’ve translated that into my shapes by being determined to push my boards beyond the boundaries in terms of concept, theory or rudimentary technique that is being sought after. I sometimes just throw out all the rules and measuring tools to the side and get back to the pure essence of what it is that I’m trying to make and do the best I could at it. That motivation to be out there trying to do something excellently for somebody so that they can surf it, coming in there with your heart and soul, just laying it all out there to the best of your ability is going to translate itself into a magic board for somebody. Terry didn’t really wander off and think that the grass was greener somewhere else. He just figured out that this was what he was meant to do. He stuck at it and the joy was something that he continued to pursue from pouring himself into it. He was so honored to shape something for somebody that was going to enjoy the sea and that is what I really hold in high regard. I find myself at times, constantly keeping the joy of getting to build surfboards instead of having to build surfboards. It’s an honor and privilege to partner with people’s path to enjoy riding waves.

What was it about Terry that you treasure the most?
I was fascinated by the way Terry conducted his life. Over the years, I started to get a sense of his story and found that pretty early in his life, he had come to a point where he realized the few things that he considered true and important. He took a hold of those things and never let them go. He didn’t falter or change his philosophy along the way. He believed and understood God to be who he said he was and applied it to his life and he never changed. What fascinated me even more, was the way he would give people the time of day or the manner in which he would conduct himself. He was interested in what you were doing and what you were about. He was a captivating and electrifying personality. Yeah, was sort of spontaneous, but it wasn’t like he was a loose cannon. He was just excited because he was excited. This led me to capture the essence of who he was and the way he conducted his life, in a film. It was kind of an odd thing to speak to someone about, “Hey, you’re not going to be around forever, let’s make a movie about what you think is important in life.” The film turned out to be an interesting perspective of a guy so old and successful in what he had done and how he applied himself so well to something that was a part of changing lives; from boards, to the personality, to conversations, to the time he invested in people.

During one film session, he was talking about life and how one doesn’t live forever. I remember it vividly. I stood behind the lens pulling focus on his eyes looking through the glasses and while he was talking to the camera, he said, “I’m happier today than I have been… well in all my life. Because, I’m knowing God better and understanding Him better.” What a confidence to have someone say those words at that age! It wasn’t about what happened in the past or what was going to happen. It was more about the present. I was so fascinated by that and I’ll never forget it. Think about saying you’re happier today than you have been in all your life. I certainly do. I am also learning that a pursuit of freedom is a more accurate path than one of happiness. These kinds of questions are birthed within us, avoiding them or disregarding truth doesn’t leave you happy, or any less confused. Surfing to me helps process the things in life that take time to understand, I think often how long it takes to get to understanding things in surfing and perhaps these tensions of similarity are what keep them hand in hand for me.

Who else was an influence?
When I started shaping in Cape Town, there weren’t that many people shaping boards but David van Ginkel, of DVG Shapes, was a huge influence. He was extremely hospitable to having me watch him shape and explaining boards, techniques and theories. Mostly I watched quietly and observed his process. Robin Fletcher Evans from J-Bay was much the same way and I still wish I could have learned more from those guys. Terry is a solid influence and Carl Hayward though the generosity of his family who let me shape in his bay after he tragically passed.

What do you love about shaping?
It’s definitely a creative outlet yet it’s also an appointed task. I like the dedication to detail, the implication of accuracy and how it translates to performance yet at the same time, there are no fatal errors. It’s kind of a free expression. You go into the shaping bay, you do your best and be as accurate as you can. At the end of the day, it’s some hand tools, some foam, rocker, fiberglass and resin. It’s not rocket science but you just need to know a little about rockets. Wrestling with these hydrodynamic principles and drawing from what’s going to enhance the design and complement the parts that you put together is how it all flows and how the board is going to work… that’s a fun exercise every time I make one. I love that tension between the free sculpting of something and accurate articulation of what it is you’re trying to make for someone to match the description of how they want to ride or envision themselves riding a certain type of wave in whatever way. That’s what keeps it so exciting to me.

Describe your ideal wave riding experience and how you incorporate that into your shapes.
We go surfing because it feels good. We go through life trying to acquire the best memories we can. That’s how we all live, right? Big wave riding is what I would say is my most ideal wave riding experience because it’s thrilling from the dangers and always memorable because of that. When you get it right, you’re safer than when you get it wrong; that’s a fact. There’s something about taking off on a very big wave and your board’s working and you’re making the wave. Those memories get etched into one’s being much more deeply than surfing some small little beach break.

However, living here in San Clemente I’ve come to have a huge fascination for small and even sometimes, fairly flat faced waves, that getting a design that highlights itself in the more meager conditions is still a beautiful thing to me. I’ve had the opportunity to ride pretty flawless waves from the likes of, Cloudbreak, Jeffreys Bay and even down in Mexico. It was great, however, when you can go out to a 1–2’ onshore beach break and just get unbelievably stoked riding something that seems to fit the conditions and lets you harness speed and gain control while feeling free enough to express yourself from one section to the next. Having 4, 5, 6 to 10 waves in a row, with nobody around that changes your day. That to me is just absolutely mind-blowing.

I dedicate pretty much my entire program to figuring out boards that work well in small or weaker waves because it’s probably the most important board in your quiver. At the end of the day, it’s the enjoyment of playing in the sea that changes one and is the main reason why we all started surfing.

What are you grateful for?
I’m learning to be grateful for things that I want to wake up with tomorrow. It scares me sometimes what I’m not grateful for because there is just so much to be grateful for. I’ve come to realize how fragile this life can be and that we’re really not in control of anything. We all want to create something that is lasting and investing in people’s lives is a very important thing that I’m grateful for the opportunity to do. It shows itself in having a family. I’m so grateful for my wife, children and family. In the end, it’s the sum of investing in people that will someday have you be remembered for with legacy. Wanting to leave that something that matters to someone or to the rest of the world is how I think we were made.

What’s next for Donald Brink?
Like any other business, I’m working really hard to build up the infrastructure to be a little more smooth and flowing so that when I walk into the shaping bay, I have those things taken care of. I want to pay my best thoughts, energy and attention to shaping the boards. I’m playing with a whole bunch of concepts and alternative materials that I’m very excited about. I wouldn’t say I’m reinventing the wheel but I’m finding different ways to build the wheel. It’s exciting because it frees up some avenues for some creativity and uniqueness. I’d like to see myself as humble shaper that builds boards that add to people’s quiver. There are so many good shapers and board building companies out there who are building incredible surfboards. I’m fascinated by different parts of the quiver that I think are of value. Hopefully one day I’ll get those emails that are specifically for certain parts of people’s quiver because I’ve come to be known to be the best at that. The asymmetric boards are incredibly beneficial to the rides and when it comes to that small wave platform. I’m really excited, the boards are working well I’ve got a bunch of ideas and designs sitting in the back of my mind that I can’t wait to build. I understand the fact that I need to take my time, talk to the right people and experiment with the right board and the right wave.

Find out more about Donald Brink and his surfboards here. Top photo: Allison Moore

By Thomas Takao

Kenny Tilton grew up in Honolulu, Hawaii and first started surfing Waikiki in the early 1950’s. First on a redwood surfboard then moved on to a balsa surfboard. Waikiki during the 1950’s was changing and it was fun to be a surfer. Back then, local Beach Boys would watch over them whenever they went out in the water and show them the ropes on how to surf as the south swells of summer rolled in. During the summer, Kenny and his best friends Bobby and Leroy Achoy would work for Barry Napoleon and Bobby Crewson on the beach at Waikiki.

He began shaping in the mid-1950s after buying a board that Allen Gomes had made. Kenny reshaped and re-glassed it and to this day he still remembers the itch that he got from that surfboard, which had an exposed fiberglass layer that his leg rubbed against. The days of youth made way for surfboard building and a new industry.

Kenny would seek to learn the skills to improve his craftsmanship. He was mentored by notable shapers in the business of that time period, Abel Gomes, Wally Froiseth, and George Downing. He developed an eye for shaping and knew that was his calling. His friend Donald Takayama started shaping about the same time and would make it his career as well. Donald, Boogie Kalama, and Raymond Patterson lived close by to Kenny, so they would surf and do things together.

His skills as a shaper were becoming known in Waikiki and Dale Velzy heard about it. Velzy had opened another shop in Hawaii and was in need of a shaper. Kenny started working for him at his shop at 253 Cooke St. in Honolulu. There he would meet Richard Dees who was sent over by Velzy to show the new glassers at the shop how to glass surfboards the way the guys on the mainland were doing it. One of those new glassers at the shop was Raymond Patterson. The orders for surfboards started to happen and this was the beginning of Kenny Tilton’s shaping career.

There were Aloha Week in the Islands and the first “Aloha Week” took place in 1946 after the war. It included a parade, pageants, hula shows and services at Kawaiahao Church in Honolulu. The Aloha Festivals kicks off in Oahu in mid-September. Each island chooses a king, queen, prince, princess and attendants, all of whom are of Hawaiian descent and is a colorful affair, accompanied by conch shell blowers and costumes of ancient times.

During this time there was night surfing , where Kenny and a group of his friends would take shortened Kukui torches out into the lineup and light up the area where they would be taking off at. After catching the wave only the white water and silhouette of their friends could be seen in the twilight of the shore line of hotels and restaurants as they surfed towards the shore. They would do the same at Makaha and on the beach there would be a big bonfire where the flames would trail out 10 to 15 feet into the night sky.

Good friends like Mokealii and Zulu jamming away on their slack guitars as Don Stroud would be pounding on his bongo’s, Chubby Mitchell playing a sweet jazz tune on his ukulele while Kimo Hollinger would be singing a Ray Charles song. At Waikiki or Makaha’s gatherings you would also have Joey Cabell, Rabbit, Dingo, Steamboat, Jesse Crawford and the names go on and on. Classic times and good memories.

Like many in the islands, Kenny was drawn by emerging surfboard industry in California. Knowing a few guys from the mainland that were heading home, Kenny bought a plane ticket for $75.00 from his friend Freddy Noa. The airline he traveled on was called Pink Cloud Airline and the flight over lasted 15 hours. They landed in Burbank and his new friends and Kenny were picked up in a pickup truck. It was winter in Southern California and the truck ride from Burbank to Santa Monica was a cold one for Kenny. He was in the back of the truck with just the clothing he had brought over.

His stay in Santa Monica was just 2 weeks before moving in with friends that he knew from Hawaii to Hermosa Beach. There Kenny got acclimated to the surf scene and the waves. Making the drive down to San Clemente took some time. There were no freeways and the only way was the Pacific Coast Highway. But once there, Kenny made friends with the crew at Velzy Jacobs Surfboards and became one of them. There he got to know Al Nelson, Carl Ekstrom, Rennie Yater, Sandy Banks, Harold Ige, Del Cannon, Bill Cooper, Bob Cooper, Danny Brawner and he already knew George Kapu, Bobby Patterson and Donald Takayama besides the others, which included Bruce Brown, John Severson, Bud Browne and Grant Rohloff.

After the breakup of Velzy Jacobs Surfboards, Kenny moved back up north to Hermosa Beach and started working for Hap Jacobs at Jacobs Surfboards. After Jacobs, Kenny shaped at Bing Surfboards and while at Rick Surfboards he was doing the Barry Kanaiaupuni and Dru Harrison Models. In 1964 he moved up to Santa Barbara and worked for Yater Surfboards for a couple of years before moving to Santa Cruz and working for Doug Haut for a brief time before starting Tilton Switzer Surfboards and then Soul Fish in Santa Cruz. Into the early 70’s Kenny worked for Country Surfboards and Brewer Surfboards. Kenny then moved to the Big Island on the Kona side and started to make surfboards there.

In the 1980’s Kenny lived on Maui making windsurfers and surfboards for Jimmy Lewis. His shaping skills took him to Japan, Germany, and Spain. But Kenny would return home to Hawaii and start doing the first SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard) with Jeff Timpone on Maui 1990’s. Today Kenny Tilton is mostly making Koa and Mango wooden surfboards. His extensive shaping skills gained over the years goes into each and everyone one of his custom wall hangers.

This article originally appeared in Cadamaran and was written by Thomas Takao. Kenny Tilton can be contacted on his Facebook page here.

Ming Nomchong is a talented surfer/photographer based in Byron Bay, Australia. Her natural ability to capture that perfect moment by the ocean is both impressive and a delight. We spoke with Ming to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
Happy, loud and playful. I’m the eldest of 4 which meant my mum had her hands full most of the time.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Not very long ago! in 2010. I bought it off some guy who put an ad up at my local notice board, he was off overseas and I was in need of a first board. Worked out perfectly!

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Pure and utter excitement. I thought to myself “This is the beginning of something very special”

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Haha, Whitney Houston! I thought she was so beautiful and had such a great voice… and she always wanted to “Dance with somebody”!

Who/What inspired you to begin shooting images?
Probably first and foremost, my mum. She was a photographer for many years while we were growing up so I was always around cameras which made me curious to start using them. Then I was introduced to the National Geographic magazines by my dad and I was hooked. That magazine, as I’m sure for many people, inspired me to start taking pictures.

What do you look for in a good photograph?
Good composition and light. I like unusual compositions that draw you into the image and keep you lingering. And good use of light to create the right mood for the shot is also really important when looking for something I like.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Probably Tonga. It’s so untouched and pristine and the underwater worlds and sea life there are just amazing. Tonga is in a time warp. It feels like it’s 30 years behind the rest of the world and it’s so refreshing. I had to chance to swim with and photograph Humpback Whales there last year and it was truly one of the most amazing experiences of my life.

Who/what inspires you?
People who have the courage to step away from the daily grind and follow their dreams to do what they’re really passionate about. Even if it means giving up everything to pursue what’s important to them.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
If you can create a world you want to live in in your mind, you can make it your reality.

What makes Byron Bay so unique? What do you love about it?
Byron has a special energy about it, you feel it all around you when you’re there, it’s slows you down, chills you out and creates this positive energy that the whole town buzzes on. There are so many different surfing beaches to choose from depending on the direction of the swell, which means there’s always waves. And we have one of the best point breaks on the east coast. It’s not unusual to be out in the surf with dolphins and at the same time, watch migrating humpbacks swim past. There’s also a real sense of community in the bay which I love and Byron is a massive hub for live music, art, surf and spirituality and a lot of the time these things come together and collaborate which means there’s always lots of cool creative things to see and do.

What are you most proud of?
I’m proud of sticking through the hard times and keeping focus on what I really want to achieve in life and following the path that makes me the happiest.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has opened my eyes up to the beauty and the energy of the sea, it’s slowed me down and grounded me. Surfing has become one of the most important things in my life and it’s because of the feeling you have when you’re on a wave makes you feel like you’re connected to something bigger than you. For me it puts life into perspective.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Shooting and surfing! And being surrounded by family and close friends. And traveling, I never want to stop traveling.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
There are so many! Dave Rastovitch is a great example of someone who is raising awareness of the connection between surfing and conservation of our oceans. We have to look after the world that we enjoy. Some of the up and coming female surfers who are really inspiring women, shaping the way for women’s surfing, rising up the ranks and becoming the élite in their field, showing us that it’s not just a sport for men; Tyler Wright, Coco Ho and Steph Gilmore just to name a few.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
My new McTavish 6’2 single fin scooter. I’ve only just started riding shorter boards and it’s an awesome board to ride, nice and wide and buoyant. My favourite surf spot is probably The Pass, here in Byron. On a good day you can catch a wave out at the point and surf it all the way down to Clarkes. (That’s a long way). I just wish everybody else didn’t think The Pass was their favourite too…

What’s your favorite meal?
Thats easy, anything my sister makes. She’s an amazing vegetarian/vegan cook. I get hungry just thinking about her food.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Vance Joy, James Blake, Chet Faker and Ben Howard.

What are you most grateful for?
I’m grateful that I’m happy and healthy and having the opportunity to follow my dreams.

What’s next for Ming Nomchong?
Bali! I’ll be there for a month to shoot as well as take a break and soak up the sun and surf. So keep an eye on the blog, http://thedrifter.me for images from the next month in Indonesia.

All images are copyright Ming Nomchong. Please do not copy or share images.

Ellis Ericson is a talented surfer/shaper from Byron Bay, Australia. Raised in a surfing household, Ellis picked up his shaping skills and talent from his father. Currently residing in Bali, Ellis is free to surf and shape his early ‘70s inspired surfboards. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
Grew up in the small coastal town of Byron Bay. Dad, Mum and sister surfed. Most of my time spent by the beach or travelling with the family.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Hmm, about the age of 7 or 8 I think…

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Bit vague now.. I think I was standing on a board before I could walk. I’m sure I was stoked!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My father Bruce. He shaped all my boards, showed me the ropes. He’s a good surfer and a great craftsman. He taught me about the weather, winds and waves. showed me respect for the ocean, surfing and for my equipment.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I’m currently living in Bali and have done so for the past 3 years. It’s my favourite so far. The people, cost of living, facilitates, waves and likeminded people living over here make it the best place in the world to be a creative young person wanting no restrictions to what they can and cannot do.

Who/what inspires your surfing and shaping?
Peers that I surf and shape with. Neal Purchase Jr. has been a big influence of late/ Al Knost and I spend a lot of time with talking about designs. My old man whenever I need help with shaping. The history of shaping and designs past gets me going, too — inspirations come from everywhere, so it’s hard to call it from the source. It might be an old board in a yard sale or the local grom ripping at his home break. Inspiration is all around you if you look.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No regrets thus far.

What are you most proud of?
Making my own boards, surfing them in the best waves in the world and feeling them work well (sometimes).

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
Passion and an intimate relationship with nature.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My girlfriend and chasing good waves. Nothing more rewarding than making a plan, chasing a swell, and scoring with a few friends.

You are starring in a couple of films by Jimmy James. What was that experience like?
I grew up with Jimmy. We went to the same school and have been friends forever. I regard him as a best mate and his filmmaking is some of the best in the business. No one works harder than him and he truly has an eye and talent and for capturing a moment.

Your boards have a transitional era feel to them. Who/what are some of your shaping influences?
Yeah, I like that time period, I feel everything was explosive and progressing so fast, its neat to be able to go back, to revisit shapes that may have been passed by or just not tested in all types of waves. It really is a rabbit hole once you get into it. As far as influences and names? Wayne Lynch, Jim Pollard, Terry Fitzgerald, Mitchell Rae and MP (Michael Peterson) are some of whom I’m looking at right now – especially MP for his volume distribution and fin placements and templates.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Al Knost, Derek Hynd and Dane Reynolds.

What is your favorite board?
I love them all – some suck though.

Your favorite surfspot?
Desert Point.

What’s your favorite meal?
Cheap coffee. I’m usually in a hurry.

What are you currently listening to on your record player?
Gap Dream, Matt Mcluer , Holy Shit, Tomorrows Tulips, and Bob Dylan.

What are you most grateful for?
Ability to live my life how I want and make enough to get by and keep doing what I do..

What’s next for Ellis Ericson?
Gosh, wish I could tell you, even I don’t know. I just got back from camping on the east coast of Australia, Bali in a week, then Europe to shape, then back to Australia for a trip before April is over. I’ll be around. Just follow my blog/instagram if you wanna keep up.

Images provided by Ellis Ericson. All copyrights belong to their respective owners. 

Jean Marie Drouet is a talented French surfer/artist. His captivating paintings capture the carefree feeling of a good day spent at the beach with family or surfing with friends, and is executed with a high level of skill and craft. We spoke with Jean Marie to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
Happy and free.

What inspired you to begin creating art?
Many many different things. First it was the drawings (comics) of Moebius, Jeff Jones. Later Edward Hopper paintings and N.C Wyeth. I’ve been drawing since I was a child. Always making art for me is an obvious act. I need to create worlds and universes through my painting.

What do you hope to create in the mind of the person viewing your art?
I just want they feel quiet and peaceful looking my paintings. I want to paint the light and the calm.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Greek island is a place I like to be because of the beauty, quiet, and because of the constant blue sky.

Who/what inspires you?
The human and light. This is my main source of inspiration

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
I don’t have finish to learn.

What are you most proud of?
To live by only painting – that’s the real freedom.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing and the life on the seaside is a great way of life.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Surfing and creating.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I don’t know people in the surfing world but I grew up with the dawn of windsurfing. I bought my first windsurfing board in 1978. Robby Naish was a good role model. I windsurf anymore, I only surf.

What “Golden Rule” do you live by?
“Just do what you want to do” – Neil Young

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I prefer longboard and the spirit of this way of surfing. My favorite spot is 5 minutes from my workshop. It does not have the best waves, but it’s cool.

What’s your favorite meal?
Chocolate, chocolate, and chocolate.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
No ipod for me. I prefer to have my ears kept free.

What’s next for Jean Marie Drouet?
Always painting, surfing and living in my quiet town by the seaside. Just like today.

Find out more about Jean Marie Drouet and his art here.

Josh Edwards is a talented young surfer from California. A team rider for Noll Surfboards and affectionately nicknamed “Little Kook” by the locals, Josh can be seen regularly at San Onofre blowing doors off surfers twice his age. We spoke with Josh to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
Technically speaking, I am still a child. But from a surf stand point, it was a lot different than most people. I grew up in Temecula, but my mom used to take me, my brother, and my sister to Oceanside every weekend for as long as I can remember so we could surf. If it wasn’t for her, I wouldn’t be where I am today. My brother Travis got me into skateboarding at a really early age so that’s all I knew growing up, surfing and skating.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first board when I was probably 5. It was handed down to me by my neighbor. I don’t remember any specifics, but it was just a massive shortboard that looked like it was from 1980 something.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a board?
It’s probably my earliest memory, I was so excited because I’d never experienced anything like it, but since I didn’t know how to turn, I plowed a group of foreign girls that were playing in the shorebreak. Then it just became a huge mess and there was a lot of screaming and crying going on. They didn’t speak English so I just kind of left.

Who/what inspires you?
I get really stoked on people who are just doing what makes them happy, which usually means doing something nobody else is really that into. We’re in a really good time period where everything has already been done, so now we are just experimenting with things that we think are cool.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
By far the greatest thing I have learned in life is to just be yourself. No matter what, there is going to be criticism. I think the worst thing anyone could ever do is try to be like everyone else, the people who live a life trying to fit into every norm are usually the unhappy ones.

What are you most proud of?
Every opportunity that surfing has given me. I would have never met half the people I know or gotten to do some of the things I’ve done if I hadn’t started surfing. I never actually thought that I would be recognized for doing something I really enjoy.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
Surfing means a lot to me, it’s something I can do for hours and never get bored. It’s what has kept me out of trouble all of my life and I can’t imagine what else I’d do without it. I can’t play a sport to save my life.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Just knowing that I have the freedom to do what I want with my life. I don’t have to worry about getting a meal or if I’m going to have a place to sleep at night. It’s pretty humbling to think about the state of the world and then to think about all that we have.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I’ve been a big fan of the Stopniks for a long time because they sort of do and ride whatever and kill it. But there are a lot of local guys that I like to watch: Brendan White, Tommy Witt, Noah Shimabukuro, Mike Stidham… the list goes on. As far as the future goes, I know Kai Takayama is going to get really good and so is River Covey.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My go-to board right now is my 9’4 Tooth Tail from Jed Noll, it works in almost any wave, I don’t think Jed has ever made a board I didn’t like though. My favorite spot is Rincon just because it forces you to pick lines you normally wouldn’t.

What’s your favorite meal?
Anything from Swami’s in Oceanside.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
X, The Black Lips, Cass McCombs, Bob Dylan, Best Coast, Joy Division, The Growlers, Jefferson Airplane, Sam Cooke, The Bags, The Wongs, Eric Burden and The Animals, The Sandwitches, The Great Society, Wild Nothing.

What are you most grateful for?
Everything that I have been able to accomplish and all the things that I have been able to do at such a young age. My family and friends are equally important to me because they’re the ones that have allowed me to do what I’ve done with my life.

What’s next for Josh Edwards?
School, surf, work. Repeat.

Photography by Brooks Sterling. Find his site here and follow his Instagram @brookssterling. Portrait of Edwards family by Glenn Sakamoto.

By Mac Feller

Kuni Takanami is a talented surfer/photographer born in Japan and now residing in Australia, Sought after by numerous surf magazines and sportswear companies, Kuni travels the world looking for interesting people and places to capture the light through his unique lens. We spoke with him to learn more.

Where did you grow up, and what was it like?
I grew up in Itabashi-ku, Tokyo, where two capital freeways join together (Shutoko and Kanjosen). They say the pollution in the air there is one of the dirtiest areas in Japan. I used to skate at empty lots, parks and streets. I’d also hang out at friends houses playing TV games or we’d cruise around on stolen motorbikes.

When did you start surfing?
I think it was the day after my junior high school graduation ceremony. I was skating a lot then, but one of my seniors was a surfer and he was really popular among the girls. So I thought I would be like that too if I started surfing – turns out I didn’t get that popular!

What drew you to surfing?
I first went to Shonan – the closest beach to Tokyo — by train with a few friends. We were all beginners, so we had no idea what we were doing. I tried to copy the good surfers but I couldn’t do anything with my board.

Surfing made me understand true raw skills, or lack of, that I had. I was just being washed around inside the waves, up and down, and getting in the way of the good surfers. I can’t really explain it but I think that’s when my pride got broken for the first time. I got so frustrated, and I thought to myself, I really want to be tougher. The idea of “becoming tough” became much bigger than the fun itself or even the girls.

In Tokyo, you can talk shit as much as you want to. Wear cool clothes, drive expensive cars… You can say “I am somebody. My friends are actors, I got mad cash, I can do anything!!” … you know? (laughs)

But you can’t do that with the ocean. If you don’t have real skills or awareness out there, the ocean can kill you just like that or even refuse you completely with her incredible power. I just really wanted to learn about the ocean and become a part of the surfers’ circle. I guess I wanted the recognition.

What has been the influence of surfing and how has it changed your life?
If I didn’t surf… I think I would have ended up doing bad stuff (like a pernicious moneylender) or maybe a boxer with the influence of my biological father (Royal Kobayashi was one time World Champion and 6th in the Olympics). Or maybe I would have died from a drug overdose.. I was into some pretty loose shit back in those days.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path of surfing today?
I guess everyone would first think of Kelly Slater. His effort and talent is definitely something, and he played a massive role for today’s surf scene popularity and its economic effect. But I’m getting bored of today’s high-performance and high-technology surfboards and the associated business scene.

It’s much more amazing to have a surf icon like George Greenough still alive! He’s had such an influence on today’s short boards. And we can’t forget Duke Kahanamoku from Hawaii, who brought surfing into Australia. Their generation’s creativity, it’s real. They started from scratch, trying and failing pushed by their passion. Someone like George, he created not only those revolutionary fins, plan shapes and concepts, but also water housings and then proceeded to shoot films and take amazing photos! I have a lot of respect for his generation.

Also, as a Japanese, I respect Wakita-san who charges so hard on the Northshore’s monster waves. Today, there is “Wakita-peak” in Pipe. That means those tough Hawaiians and the whole world has recognized him as “the surfer.”

As everyone knows, the world is facing so many problems. Especially for those surfers who travelled the world to search for the good waves, they directly face and realize how serious these problems are. So, my hero is a surfer who is living the sustainable lifestyle and actually making actions to save the nature. I guess my true hero is my dear friend, like a brother, Dave Rastovich. He loves nature from his soul and he knows that the nature he loves has such a sensitive existence. He knows the ocean so well and he has the skill to become a part of the wave. Dave is not only an amazing surfer, but he’s the ideal and ultimate human being.

All these people I named have given me such colorful inspirations. I think it is a wonderful thing that through my photographs and my work with my wife Angie, we can pass on their legacies to the next generation.

Where did you interest in photography come from?
When I was 14, my uncle passed away and he left me an SLR. That’s when I first owned my own camera and I learned the ropes just by playing around with it. But I admit it was put away in my garage for a long time.

Then I went to my first overseas surf trip when I was 17. I felt that I want to spend more time away surfing good waves. Through travelling, I was able to experience the nature’s powerful beauty and her delicate creations, simple things like the waves wearing a shimmering light’s reflection. Things like that touched me. I guess I had never seen such beautiful scenes growing up in Tokyo’s concrete jungle under the foggy skies of pollution.

So next thing I knew, I had my camera in my hand. I wanted to capture the beauty so I could come back to it anytime, even if I have to return to the concrete jungle when my money ran out.

What do you look for in capturing a good image?
I think it depends on the shoot and circumstances. But I won’t tell you all my secrets as it would take too long and I can’t give free information away to my future rivals (laughs)

But seriously, there is a battlefield photographer called Mr. Miyajima, and in his interview on National TV channel in Japan, he said “It’s all about being in the right place at the right time”. I am on a different field, but I think I can say the same thing.

Right place and right time changes on the purpose of the shooting. Like fashion, landscapes, surf, war, etc. First of all, it’s important to know and find your own “right place & right time” for that specific purpose. To do that, you have to know about the wind, sun position, swell direction and the surfer’s next moves. And you move before they move. On every field, whatever it is, you have to have your camera ready to go so you don’t miss out on any special moments. That’s the most basic key for good photos.

Analog, digital, or both forms of photography? If both, when do you use each?
If I don’t have to worry about the time nor the budget, I would definitely choose analog to create my photography. But if there’s a limitation on time or budget, then digital is the go to.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I would say India. Not a single day passed without accidents! (laughs) Something is always happening, and their irresponsibility was such a fun element of our trip. Reincarnation philosophy is still well alive in India and for the first time, I recognized death as a very natural thing.

When I was surfing in India, for the first time I thought even if I die right now I would be quite happy. Also, India still holds massive potentials for “unknown waves”. And of course the poverty there is a serious reality. India has taught me so many important things.

What are you most proud of?
I lost my pride a long time ago (laughs). I want to take great photos, I want to express other people’s pride inside my photos.

What are you most grateful for?
My parents, my wife Angie, and my friends.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Those moments when I see good waves. My boys Ryder and Hunter. When I am with my family looking at good waves I am on top of the world!

What’s your favorite meal?
Japanese food! Ramen!

What are the positives of life in Japan? And, what are the positives of life in Australia?
Japan has the two totally different faces next to each other. The big city controlling the economy, and the countryside where the slow life and beautiful nature remains. That’s what I like about Japan. It’s handy having both. If you understand the seasons, you can always get good waves. Japanese food is healthy and complex. Everyone has pretty good hearts.

Australia is a massive continent with countless waves. The cities and towns are all alive with strong contrasting yet well balanced nature. There’s a variety of food and good beer! And I love the slow paced lifestyle of Aussies.

What’s next for Kuni Takanami?
I want to keep travelling with my family. Angie and I are still fit and strong, the kids are young and adventurous. It’s a good time for us to be moving around the world visiting developing and remote areas capturing their local lifestyles, their swells, and their realities. I want to capture the many different faces of the earth and share them with the world.

To learn more about Kuni Takanami, visit his website here.

Ed Lewis and Kipp Denslow are the masterminds behind Enjoy Handplanes. Together, they create handplanes that are made from foam to the same exacting standards as a surfboard. The benefit is that each handplane is built from recycled materials and finished with earth-friendly resins. We spoke with Ed to learn more.

Tell us how Enjoy got started.
I was doing freelance design work and Kipp was a closet surfboard builder. At the time, Kipp's wife thought it would be great if we could meet each other since we were both stay-at-home dads who surfed. While on daddy duty, we would hang out at the beach with our kids. We kept seeing these broken boards and we were getting kind of upset about it.

And the whole handplane thing started when Jon Peck showed up at my house. He comes out of his van and says, "I really want to show you something – it's the most amazing thing." He had one of Cyrus Sutton's handplanes with him. Jon was just enamored with this thing. Before all of this I just surfed fishes. I was just looking at this thing wondering, "What IS this thing?" At the time, I just didn't get it.

Tell us more...
We found an old board, we took it apart, and Kipp made our first handplane. I went down to the beach with an old pair of Churchills and I go and catch my first wave. I'm thinking to myself, "This is cool!" Then I find myself getting barrel after barrel in this one inside section. My friends are paddling out, looking at me, and I am just laughing – having a great time. It was pure fun. Soon friends starting asking for their own handplanes. That’s when the idea came that we could actually make these things – and continue going to the ocean, watch our kids, help the environment, and make something we might both derive an income from.

Where did the name "Enjoy" come from?
We asked ourselves, "What would happen if we created a brand name that had a positive spin on it? A name that would have a different vibe – something fun?" The Campbell Brothers put "Peace" on their boards because they really wanted to send that message out there. That's how Enjoy was created. We want to send out the message of “fun” and we feel it almost becomes like a command – to go out and just “enjoy.”

What makes your handplanes eco-friendly?
We wanted to get our handplanes into Patagonia Cardiff. At the time, Devon Howard asked us if we were still using the polyester resin. The irony was that we got into this to save the planet and here we were, using toxic poly resin and wearing respirators! It made us realize that we had to find a better way to make our handplanes. That's when we were introduced to Entropy resins. It was a learning curve, but we found it to be safer, cleaner, and we could create a better product because if it. In addition, our handplanes are made with donated parts – broken boards for the planes and our straps come from old, worn wetsuits.

Tell us about the art on your handplanes.
As a kid, I was always drawing. When I was in 7th or 8th grade, some friends of ours owned the Hideaway Cafe in Solana Beach. I did a simple drawing of all of the people that worked there and it instantly became their new t-shirt. I did go to art school, but sometimes we have these notions that to be a great artist we have to do these complex things. But in reality, it can be simple and still be considered art. The designs on foam are a one-color pencil drawing. I get to do what I love; which is a simple line drawing and Kipp gets to do what he loves; which is color. Together, the collaboration just works and people seem to love it. The art is truly spontaneous and it really is an expression of who we are.

Who is your customer?
Any person that just really loves surfboards. If you love boards, you are going to love our handplanes because they are just miniature surfboards. Everything happened organically and people are organically finding us. We're just being who we are and people seem to be connecting with that. And all of this would not have been possible without the internet.

Where can we find your handplanes?
Our first retail customer was JP St Pierre at Surfy Surfy. It was a really big deal for us, because of his background at Moonlight Glassing, to tell us we were doing a good job and that he wanted to carry our product. We now have international customers via the internet and we push our local customers to their nearest shop. Patagonia has also been a good fit, too because their customer gets our vibe right away.

What's next for Enjoy Handplanes?
We've got some big ideas. I'm pretty much a big dreamer. It's going to go beyond just the handplane...

Enjoy Handplanes are designed and created in Leucadia, California. To find out more about Enjoy Handplanes or to order your own, click here. 

Steve Cleveland is a talented surfer/filmmaker and is the creator of his latest film, A Paradigm Shift. Fast moving and full of action, it features such talents as Jared Mell, Alex Knost, Joel Tudor, and Kassia Meador. We spoke with Steve to learn more.

Tell us about your latest film, A Paradigm Shift.
A Paradigm Shift is a relatively fast paced, tightly edited surf film, with a great soundtrack (The film won awards for Best Soundtrack and Best Editing at the International Surf Film Festival in Anglet, France). A group of great surfers riding all types of surfboards on all types of waves. Filmed in Australia, California, Hawaii, Mexico, and Pohnpei. It features Jai Lee, Harley Ingleby, Brian Anderson, Colin Whitbread, Jared Mell, CJ Nelson, Joel Tudor, Dane Peterson, Leah Dawson, Kassia Meador, Jen Smith, Asher Pacey, Darshan Gooch, Chris Del Morro, Jan Wessels, Tyler Warren, Alex Knost, and Harrison Roach. The movie is chock full of unreal surfing and shows what it’s like hangin’ at some of the parties we had during the filming, too.

What were some of the challenges in creating the film?
Well, making a surf film is always challenging because you are at the mercy of the elements (Mother Nature) and the travel is a bloody mongrel these days – camera equipment, boards, TSA, etc. I was real lucky with this one though. I only got skunked on one trip/shoot and that was due to an injury to a surfer. Also I got lucky with all the coöperation I received from the cast.

What is your favorite scene in the film?
I love it all! The surfing is just at such a high level. I really like the intro and closing collage party scenes. They were fun to shoot and put together.

How did you go about choosing the diverse and talented cast for A Paradigm Shift?
I’ve been working with the same core group of guys (give or take) for a few movies now, and I’ve seen them all progress over time. For the most part (with a few exceptions) I choose guys that are considered loggers, but ride everything very well. So it’s just a matter of coördinating the shoots. I’m very blessed to be able to work with this talented group of surfers.

What were you hoping to achieve with this film?
In theory it’s really pretty simple – it’s just surfing. I’m not try to cure cancer or anything so profound. I shoot and put them together according to my own sensibilities at the time. I like to make my films stimulating to the eye and ear. I like abstract imagery and people may derive some greater meaning, but basically it’s up to their own interpretation. I want people to be chomping at the bit to have a surf when they watch the thing. At the end of the day it’s all about the surfing. My editor Nathan Apffel is very instrumental in this process.

How do you approach filmmaking? What drives you to make movies?
In as free form a manner as I can. To create and stimulate!

What is your background, both in surfing and filmmaking?
I’ve been suring since 1964. I started at the PV Cove and the beaches in Redondo. I moved to Maui in 1969 and surfed there and the other Islands until about 1980. I surfed the central California coast for about the next 4–5 years and then moved to the San Diego area and have been here ever since. I have traveled a good portion of the globe – surfing, exploring and shooting. There’s still some “secrets” out there, they are just getting a lot harder to find!

As far as film making, I started taking photography classes at Maui Community College in about 1973 and have been tripping with cameras ever since. My first surf movie was called “On Safari to Stay”. I made it with my friends Chris Ahrens and Greg Weaver in 1990. It featured Joel Tudor, Wingnut, the late great Donald Takayama and Skip Frye. I’ve made a bunch of them ever since!

What makes your films different than other surf films?
Don’t ask me, I don’t know…

Where can we find A Paradigm Shift?
At surf shops everywhere, mail order at Surf Craft Media. For wholesale orders, for digital downloads, The Surf Network.

What’s next for Steve Cleveland?
I’m always working on my next one – and surfing more!

Todd Glaser is a talented photographer from San Diego, California. Trained at the renowned Brooks Institute, Todd was the winner of the 2008 Follow The Light Grant. As a staff photographer for Surfer Magazine, he now travels the world to capture some of the biggest names on the most famous waves. We spoke with Todd to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I’m pretty clumsy on land so I tried to spend as much time as I could in the water. I did what a lot of kids in San Diego did… bodyboard, surf, skateboard, and try to have as much fun as you can before the streetlights come on.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My first surfboard was one my Mom and I found at a garage sale. I was really into bodyboarding and I saw it on the side of the road and thought I’d give it a shot. I was probably 12 at the time. I can’t remember what it was, but I was terrible on it. It had really thick, boxy rails, guessing around a 5’10 and a pink traction pad. I didn’t get into stand up surfing until I was 16 or 17.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I remember how fast the board went. It was at 15th St. in Del Mar. The waves were small and it was summertime. I had been bodyboarding all morning and figured there was no better time to try out the new surfboard. I did the shuffle on the way out so I wouldn’t get stung by any stingrays, jumped into a whitewash, stood up… rode it to the sand, the fins hit the sand, I fell over and laughed. That feeling is one that can never be forgotten.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My parents.

Who/What inspired you to begin shooting images?
I was fortunate enough to travel a bit when I was around 13 or 14 bodyboarding and got to meet some amazing waveriders and photographers. I was always curious what the photographers were up to. Coming home from a trip friends and family would always ask how my trip was and sometimes it’s hard to come up with an answer without the cliché, “It was fun, the waves were good…”

By bringing a camera I could show everyone the places I got to go to. I guess I got hooked from there. It started as going on a trip and surfing all day and maybe shooting a roll or two. Then it gradually grew into 5–10 rolls and I got hooked. It took me a long time to shoot images from land as that never seemed to be much fun for me.

Tell us about your first camera
My first camera with a housing was a Canon EOS A2 and a 15mm fisheye with a Dale Kobetich housing. I knew that Velvia was the film everyone was using and was told that when it’s sunny, shoot it at 750 4.5 if frontlit and 1000 4.5 when its backlit. Push it 2/3rds and try to be in the spot. I had no idea what that meant for about 3 years, but it seemed to work!

Who were some photographers early on who have had an influence on you?
My early photographer influences came from the guys I was traveling with. Ross McBride, Andre Botha, Jeff Flindt and Jeremiah Klein. Those guys were all bodyboarders who brought cameras with them on the road. Andre Botha was the first to let me try his water housing.

What do you look for in a good photograph?
A connection. A good photograph should create an emotional response with the viewer. Using a combination of light, angle, composition, and framing, a good photograph should not only show us something, but tell us a story.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I’ve always been a huge fan of Mexico… Puerto Escondido in particular. The waves there are great, it’s warm, the light in the morning is amazing, and it’s fun when it’s small and scary when it’s big. The food is great. Tavarua is another place that for the longest time I thought would never be able to go to. I’m very fortunate that I was invited to go and have probably seen the most perfect waves I have ever seen there. Both Cloudbreak and Restaurants are phenomenal. There’s not too many places where you can surf/photograph the best waves in the world than jump in a hottub and drink a beer afterwards. That sounds spoiled, but the island is shaped like a heart of all things.

Who/what inspires you?
Waves, music, old photos, new photos… coffee. Lately I’ve been going to coffee shops and speaking with strangers. Having short conversations just for the sake of conversation.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To keep learning.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No regrets, just lessons to take note of and learn by.

What are you most proud of?
Being able to share the experiences both in and out of the water with my friends on a daily basis, the camera comes secondary.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing and being a part of the surf community is my life. I’ve met all my best friends from surfing, filled up a couple of passports with stamps from all over the world, it has kept me healthy, keeps me humble, and has allowed me to mix my passion of surfing and photography into a life that lets me spend most of it outdoors and among friends with waves.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Being in the right time at the right place with good friends.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Kelly Slater, Joel Tudor, John John, Dane Reynolds, Mark Healey, Shane Dorian, and Greg Long.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I go back and forth between a 5’3 Pavel Keel fin fish and a 5’2 Channel Islands Biscuit. My favorite wave is Seaside Reef.

What’s your favorite meal?
Spaghetti squash pasta with spicy chicken sausage that my girlfriend Jenna makes.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I’ve been listening to a lot of Jack White.

What are you most grateful for?
Being able to combine my love of photography and the ocean into one, all while I’ve got a beautiful lady who loves me and is ok with the alarm clock going off every morning at 5!

What’s next for Todd Glaser?
Today is my friends birthday, so I’m going to a BBQ. I’ve got a couple places I keep my eye on for swell and am waiting for the conditions to coöperate. I try not to plan too far in advance, but have a list of places I keep my eyes on and hopefully continue to be where the waves are good so I can document them and sneak a couple waves in for myself, too.

To learn more and view more images, check out Todd’s website here.

Tom Curren is a three-time world champion surfer from Santa Barbara, California, and the son of big wave legend Pat Curren. Highly influential during the eighties, many surfers worshipped Curren’s preternatural surfing ability and hung the famous cutback photo by Tom Servais on their bedroom wall. Adding singer and songwriter to his resumé, Curren released his new album “In Plain View” on April 2nd and is taking his musical act on the road after a string of dates on the West Coast with Ben Howard.

When did you first become interested in music?
I played drums at a very early age and I picked up the guitar shortly after that – so I’d say it’s been a long time. I’ve dedicated a lot of my time surfing and now I feel the need to focus more on my music. I’ve been playing with a band now and doing a few shows here and there. I also have a home studio that I have the pleasure to putter around in.

Your father had many famous surfing friends. Did you ever jam with Tom Morey?
No, I’ve never played with Tom Morey. I do know he is a Jazz drummer. But I have done a number of jam sessions over the years. For example, I’ve participated in a big jam in Fiji. I had the opportunity to play with guys like Kelly (Slater), G-Love, Jackson Browne, and a number of really talented musicians.

What made you decide to begin pursuing music as a career?
Surfing has always been a source of inspiration for my music. And as far as combining music and surfing together, people like Donovan Frankenreiter and Jack Johnson’s careers have certainly had some influence. Basically, I got some encouragement from my record company and friends to begin putting my music onto an album.

Music, like surfing, share things like timing, rhythm, and improvisation. Can you tell us more?
That’s true with certain types of music, especially when it comes to improvisation. In music, there are some things that happen predictably, like surfing, but there is also that element of freeform or improvisation. For example you can surf everyday at the same spot, but every wave is subtly different.

Who/what are you musical influences?
I am influenced by a lot of different music. I really love musicians like Van Morrison and Pat Metheny. I am influenced by everything from Americana music to African music. When I was living in France, I was able to hear a lot of African music that would come through the country. I’m pretty open minded when it comes to a variety of recorded music.

How would you describe your style of music?
I would say it would be “California-sounding.” A little like Jackson Browne or the Eagles. When I write lyrics, I am not trying so much to tell a story but to create a mood or feeling. My sound is more rock and blues. What I personally like is music that makes one move around. But at the same time I don’t create dance music. In fact, I’ve been told I’m not a very good dancer (laughs). I just hope to deliver some groove with my songs.

When it comes to surfing, what is your favorite maneuver?
It depends on the conditions, but for me it’s tube riding. There isn’t a whole lot involved technically, you basically just need to be in position. It’s the simplest maneuver – but it’s the most rewarding.

What board are you riding these days?
I have one board that used to be Bobby Martinez’s board, it’s a basic three fin. It’s a shortboard with a lot of curve in it. Another board I ride is a board I shaped. It’s a single fin shortboard and it has a kind of a parallel outline. Singlefins have less drag so they go really fast. I also have a 12-foot paddleboard I like to take out.

What’s your favorite surf spot?
Rincon, when it’s on, can be a great spot. It’s like a playground. I do have other favorites like Sunset Beach. And J-Bay is another one – definitely.

Describe a perfect day
It would have to do with having a good day at the beach – good waves. That would be a start, yeah.

What’s next for Tom Curren?
We’re gonna do a few more dates. The next gig will be in San Diego at the Surf Film Festival. We are also in the planning stages for some gigs for the East Coast and a one-night show in Japan.

For concert dates and to purchase Tom Curren’s music click here. To see Tom live, check out his upcoming concert at the San Diego Surf Film Festival on Saturday, May 11, 2013. 

Photo of Tom surfing by Tom Servais. Photography of Tom playing guitar by Joseph Aguirre. 

Travers Adler is a talented surfer/musician/artist from Santa Barbara, California. Whether through his art, music, or surfing, Travers possesses a unique and creative style that is at once graceful, improvisational, and full of joy. We spoke with Travers to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up with my brother and parents in an old sort-of-farm house. Not on a farm, but it was an old creaky house. Went to school nearby, joined the team sports; and got to learn some tennis. A nice lively older lady who lived down the street with her husband taught me piano. I still love playing pianos when I’m around one; I kinda have to.

Started surfing with the family and gradually got into it. Made friends who were also into it. My family did some traveling. My mom’s an artist, painting mostly, and my dad and his friend started a company called Echo that focuses on audio stuff. My mom used to play opera music in her art studio. Both of them listened to Pink Floyd in the car. And The Travelling Willburys; I just got their first album recently and it’s familiar. And I like that.

Tell us about your first surfboard
My first board was a beefy Channel Islands with green fins that my parents bought for twenty bucks from some friends. I don’t recall much beyond that. My first custom board was a Matt Moore thruster and I got to pick my own paint job; green slime dripping down a red board. Awesome! Oh, and the CI was probably when I was eight and the MM when I was 10?

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I don’t recall my first wave. I don’t think I was that wild about surfing for a while. But I guess I must’ve dug it a bit. I think my first session was probably with my brother, our friends the Parton brothers, and Brad Frohling, who took all of us grommets out and showed us the way. I remember one time he was pulling me over a wave, holding onto the nose of my board, when his grip slipped and I went back down the face backwards and ate it. Brad said Surfer Magazine was on the beach and they got the shot. I was like, really?

Another time he took us surfing, some guy on the beach decided to go skinny dipping. Brad hollered out, “Keep your nudity away from us!” And I remember my dad and his friend helping me bounce into my wetsuit. I think they were holding the arms of the suit, bouncing me into it. Suits were tough to get into. And I used to get horrible armpit rashes. Later on one of the older guys called me Rolli-Polli cuz I would tumble down the face of waves at Coral. I liked that. I got noticed!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
I looked up to my brother Will. Um… friends and peers who did stuff well. Like maybe fellow students who played handball well, stuff like that.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Northern Baja seemed real nice. Wide open spaces, cliffs and coves. Hills, mountains. Nice colors. England; all the stone work. The pies and vinegar-y fish and chips, and how they were wrapped in paper. The little cottage among the hills and fields and sheep and their poop; and the lakes and lakeside towns. Little tea houses.

Santa Barbara still gets me. The smells.. like my brother and I drove back into town the other night and the smell of the scrub brush or something, the wild plant smells, I guess. And the waves. And mountains and fields to the north. Friends. The beaches. And there doesn’t seem to be many bugs that bite on the beaches, which is nice. Nice colors, especially around dusk.

Who/what inspires you?
I like playing music a lot, and writing songs and noodling around on guitar. The Ramones’ first album has been a big inspiration for me for songwriting. Kinda like, look how simple it can be, I guess I can do that too, er, I wanna try. Charles Bukowski; I’ve mostly just read his later years poems, and I pretty much always wanna write after reading him. Ozzie Wright for his surfing and drawings. Like, his girl drawings I dug, and I think that inspired me to draw hundreds of girls to try to figure out how to do it all simple like he does. Margaret Kilgallen. John Severson’s paintings, Ed Templeton’s lady drawings/paintings. Shawn Stussy’s handwriting. Albert Jenks’ surfing is great, smooth, playful, groovy, entertaining. Mummy encourages me to go for art stuff. Dad too. And their encouragement is inspiring. And Bro (Will). His photos, paintings, drawings, he does so much art.

Demi Boelsterli and Dane Reynolds for how they ‘ll put like everything into a turn surfing. And Demi’s art. Dane R’s writing and photos too. Jeff Johnson and Chris Malloy’s writing in the Surfer’s Journal I’ve dug; It’s encouraging, to go adventure. And Dan Malloy’s writing. And so much of Thomas Campbell’s work. Sean Tully does cool art too; Like, he does tons of art, and that inspires me. Heck, this could go on and on. Ian Mackaye. Seeing Chris and Chris at Kirkegaard Framing, how stoked they seemed on their line of work. Jack Kerouac’s loose flow of writing. Miki Dora’s wiggle groove. Derek Hynd. People who seem stoked on their line of work. Like, when they find and show the good in something. Like John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. How he chooses to look through or look from a positive perspective. I’ll add another, Shawn Stussy’s stoke. And Robinson Robot Ferreux. Ethan Stewart’s stoke writing. Branden Aroyan’s slide show presentation I went to a while back. He was stoked. My brother’s smooth surfing. Tam Chase’s stoke to go surfing; him and his brother Robin that night before a dawn patrol, talking surfing. Drew-We Quit The Plain.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
People who have taught me how to love. Love feels nice.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Well, I wish I didn’t hurt people. And I would like to move past fear to do dreams, and avoid choosing to get anxious.

What are you most proud of?
I feel proud, or confident I suppose, in some skills I’ve got to develop in drawing/painting and music, and surfing. I think I can do some good with those things.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
Surfing’s an escape. Like a haven, I suppose. A community I get to be a part of. It can be a dance. One to develop skills like steps in, moves; or just one to get wild in, and/or a dance like something to groove with. It can feel nice. It can feel great. It can be an addiction I suppose. Exercise. I suppose it can be a performance, a way to try to entertain others. Heck, it’s a lot to me. It’s nice to sit out there, or it can be. An expression… art… a great feeling moment.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Ice cream. I recently found out jogging can help me feel happy. A good surf. Noodling on guitar. Singing loud sometimes. Doing art I like; finishing a piece of art I like. Fun with friends. Love.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Thomas Campbell and the Malloys seem to be guys who’ve shown some extra sides of surfing. Ozzie Wright. Alex Knost. Dane Reynolds. Demi Boelsterli. Gosh, um, my uncle Tom’s books, and my brother’s photos. Hah, I feel like both their work is pretty unique and great. I suppose all the people who do their thing and do it well? Yeah. People who do good work. Like, who are passionate. Andy Irons came to mind after saying passionate. And Bruce Irons’ surfing is great too. I could go on and on again. Oh, that Ellis Ericson dude. Those are all dudes, except for Demi. Perhaps I should mention more of the ladies. I like Kassia Meador’s surfing and stoke. And to go in more detail about Demi: she’s a great surfer… she’s smooth, she’ll put everything in her turns and it’ll look good. And she does great paintings, writes songs, takes great photos, dresses casual, started a clothing company with her friends and sister. She writes simply. She does great work. And she rides all sorts of boards well. Tyler Warren. Shawn Stussy. Sean Tully – Mr. Innocnts. Ryan Lovelace. People who dig surfing, I suppose. Yeah.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I’ve been working at Shawn Stussy’s little boardshop and getting to ride some of his boards, which has been a treat. Fun. Singlefins, thrusters. Neat stuff, and I like how pumped he is on making boards. I’ve got an old, er like sorta old, CI retro fish that I’ve dug very much. The first board my brother made, a rough singlefin that grooved so easily. A CI Red Beauty XTR and a Pod. And I’ve had great Matt Moore thrusters. Ohhhh. Hah. Great boards. And I’ve had fun on some Ryan Lovelace boards that he loaned me. A fun Valley Isle thruster. Liddles are neat. Fun couple seshes on a Gregg Tally/White Owl SB Stubbie. But lately I’ve been going mainly with some of those Stussy boards. Fun stuff. And favorite surf spot? Coral, Hams, Rincon.

What’s your favorite meal?
Favorite meal would be um, I like cereal a lot. My dad’s cooking. Mum’s cheesecake and crunch. Val Aroyan’s cooking. Good stuff from Trader Joes. Toasted PB and Honey sandwiches. Oh, how ‘bout ice cream on waffles? Maybe with a little maple syrup. Coffee. Oh, and a cold stout beer too, yes please! Pie, à la mode.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
My favorites are Gillian Welch, that Ramones CD I have. Iron and Wine; Creek Drank The Cradle album, and a bunch of home recordings of his I came across. Woody Guthrie. Van Morrison; Astral Weeks album. Otis Redding. “That Time” by Regina Spector, I been digging that one so much Um, I wanna hear more Neil Young. I’ve dug Harvest Moon a lot. Heard a neat song on the radio lately, “Hold On,” by The Alabama Shakes. I’d like to hear the Dave Rawlings Machine album. Oh, and some Creedance, yes please. I gotta hear more Violent Femmes; I’ve dug some of their stuff. Man, I could go on and on. Gillian Welch “I Dream A Highway,” that might be my favorite song of all time. And I think I’m gonna try to find a certain song Demi and I recorded.

Oh, and I got to see Tomorrow’s Tulips play a gig, and that was really cool. I liked how simple their approach was. This Best of Muddy Waters album my brother has. Dave Van Ronk. Bob Dylan. I’ve heard some Queen lately and they’ve blown my mind. Along with Weezer’s Blue Album; that knocked my socks off, blew my hair back, helped me feel stoked. Bright Eyes, I’m Wide Awake It’s Morning album. Gram Parsons. And I recently have been digging a Willie Nelson/Waylon Jennings tape. Oh and this Starbucks Vintage Country mix. Tammy Wynette knocks my socks off. I’ve only heard a couple of her recordings, but man, she’s good. Very genuine. Oh, Cat Power’s The Covers Album. Some Damien Rice and Lisa Hannigan stuff, them with that band, I haven’t heard that in a while, but yeah. Maybe the best show ever for me was seeing a couple friends’ band play back in high school. They were called Blind Story, it was kinda in a similar style to Blink 182 I guess, and they were having so much fun it looked like. It was awesome.

What are you most grateful for?
Hah, it feels nice to be asked these questions and getting to ramble. Thank you. For my parents’ love. For getting to go with Demi for the time we did. Will for being my bro. Fun with friends. Parents for guitars they’ve gifted me. Guitar. Surfing. Streaking. To and from surfing moments. Friends. Writing. Talking. Freedom… love. Oh music jams. That kinda fits in with love though, I suppose. Heh. Yeah. Dancing.

What’s next for Travers Adler?
Workin’ on songs. Back at Stussy’s S/Double shop soon. Playin guitar. Drawing. Hopefully some surfing. Snacking. Hangin’ with friends. Bedtime soon.

Credits: Principal photography and video by Morgan Maassen. Photo #2 by Will Adler. Cutback sequence photography by Michael Kew. Click here to view more video of Travers Adler surfing by Michael Kew.

Jason Baffa is the director of the now classic Singlefin: Yellow and the co-director of the film One California Day. His latest project Bella Vita, follows surfer Chris Del Moro to his birthplace in Italy, a country rich in craft and culture, and explores Del Moro’s bond with his Italian family and surfing friends (Lauren Hill, Dave Rastovich, Ale Ponzanelli).

What was the motivation or concept behind your new film, “Bella Vita”?
The origin of Bella Vita is a fun story. While doing the commercial work, I started getting the itch to do another film. Because Singlefin Yellow took 4 years and One California Day took another 4, I knew I couldn’t take the same amount of time. My wife and I had a baby boy exactly a year ago, so life had changed a bit. I wanted an idea that wouldn’t take as long and yet be beautiful and full of passion. I was traveling in Bali and ran into Chris Del Moro. Chris is a surfer, an environmentalist, and just a really cool person.

Tell us more…
He and I were both travelling and surfing and we both fell upon the truth that we both had fathers who were full-blooded Italian! He went on and told me stories about being born in Florence, Italy and growing up there for his early beginnings. When his parents split he started sharing his time between California and Italy. During that time he spent his time surfing and growing up with the early surf crew that has now blossomed in Italy. He told me he always thought it might make an interesting film idea and at that moment – I was sold. And there was a very selfish reason behind this project. It was the idea of spending 3 months in Italy, on a winery, eating spaghetti, drinking red wine, and getting some good surf.

It sounds like a wonderful idea. What were some of the challenges?
It took a year to plan it and we ran into the issue of raising enough money. And I understand that money is tight in this economy, so we kind of had to take a leap of faith. We knew we had to arrive in Italy around August at the end of the summer season to tell that part of the story, and then be there for fall for the waves to arrive in the Mediterranean.

Fortunately we found someone who had a winery. They told us, “If you get here, you will have a place to stay, and anyone in your crew can stay here, too.” Then our friends knew some people at Jeep. They thought what we were working on was cool, so they offered us 3 cars for free that we could use the whole time we were there.

And it got better. We met some people in Rome who rent camera equipment. They were surfers and they loved our previous movies. They gave us deals on rental equipment to help us make this movie. We had this huge outpouring of support from the Italians. That felt good. And because of their kind support, I just want to make them all proud.

What can we expect from Bella Vita?
First and foremost I hope the film is entertaining. It won’t matter if you are a weekend surfer, everyday surfer, or someone who might be unfortunately married to a surfer – our goal was simply to make a good movie. I took it as a challenge to make this different than my previous films. It was about going to Italy and make a documentary – a character study about Chris Del Moro – about him as a person and where he is from. It is also a story about surfers. He is a surfer and his friends are surfers. Through his journey home, we are going to learn about the history of Italian surfing and this unique, blossoming culture.

What did you learn from making Bella Vita?
That there is this wonderful juxtaposition of both old and new culture. For example, there is craftsman who makes knives that carries on the tradition for five generations. And there is the individual we interviewed who traveled to California to learn the art of shaping by the legendaryDonald Takayama. He had to leave Italy to find a mentor who could teach him the craft so the he could succeed. It’s that kind of idea – the scope of craft and culture all within the confines of a road trip.

In this time of electronics and the internet we are all connected. But to me, the important thing is remembering the importance of where you are from and who you are and where you are going. It begs many questions such as: Where are your parents from and where are your grandparents from? What did they do for a living? How does that affect what you do now for a living? In my family, my grandfather made home movies. I think that is what led me to do what I do today. That is the big picture of the film. And it’s all painted against surfing, the waves, and the journey through Italy.

When can we expect to see the film?
We are on a really aggressive editing schedule and hope to have the movie completed by this summer. I would expect that we will be doing film festivals and première screenings in key markets and all the fun stuff we were able to enjoy with the other movies. As far as DVD and video downloads, I would expect by the end of the year – into the fall and the holiday season.

To learn more about Bella Vita, visit the film’s dedicated website here. Still images provided by photographer Nick LaVecchia. Learn more about Jason Baffa, Lauren Hill, and Ale Ponzanelli.

Troy Carney is a talented surfer/artist born in New Zealand and currently resides in Kauai. Traveling the world with his entrepreneurial and surfing parents, Troy got a first hand look at the magic and power of the ocean – elements which continue to inspire his art to this day. We spoke with Troy to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
That’s a big question. I was a traveling kid. It all started in Gisborne, New Zealand. My mother was an eclectic artist type who started the first health foods store in Gisborne, New Zealand. Growing up vegetarian made it interesting for my younger brother and I living in meat eating cultures. We lived in a big old farmhouse with 18 acres of native bush at the back door to play in. Until I was 7 yrs old I ran around on most of New Zealand’s surfing beaches with long blond hair down to my bum, introducing myself as “Troy the Boy.”

My stepfather Jim Carney shaped Beautiful Day boards and played music in a band at the local pubs. He was also a professional surfer. In 1977, when I was 9, he was invited to compete in theAMCO World Champs at Bells Beach Australia, the year Mark Richards won.

From there we proceeded to drive across the continent. Australia is really big and we broke down right in the middle of it. With nothing but a truckstop around, Mom worked there waiting tables and my stepfather worked on the gas pumps in the Nallarbor until they saved enough money for him to hitchhike to Perth, buy a Combi van, to come retrieve us. But it gets better. We spent another four years in Western Australia waking up to the sound of the ocean every morning whether it be from a bedroom or the back of the Combi van to surf such places as Margaret River, Yallingup, and Kalbarri.

In 1979, we headed to Bali. My folks designed their own line of Batik surf shorts there and that’s where my surfing really took off. The water was so nice and warm I would surf all day long at Kuta Beach. I’ll never forget watching my stepfather surfing big Uluwatu and wishing to come back when I was old enough to try it.

After traveling by train through Java, and a stay in Singapore, we flew to Los Angeles to market the clothing line. That’s where I got my first job as the youngest employee at Newport Surf and Sport. I can remember one evening in Newport Beach we had Rabbit Bartholomew over for dinner – I was a super stoked grom!

Summer of ‘80 we visited Kauai and we ended up staying for three years. After a year of attending one of the roughest high schools in the United States, Kapaa Warriors High, I was relieved to attend a private school on the beach in Hanalei, where apart from them bashing your head against a Bible, we could surf for physical education.

Then in 1984, it was back to New Zealand where my stepfather started another surfboard company called Impact Surfboards. I left home to work on fishing boats up and down the East Coast of New Zealand, and continued to surf my favorite island breaks. In ‘89 I was back in Australia and lived on the point at Burleigh Heads. After 4 years airbrushing surfboards, I made it back to Kauai, where I am today.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I was 5 and it was a hand-me-down belly board. My first custom board was in Los Angeles when I was 12. It was a 6’10″ swallowtail twinfin. Shaped by Stussy and glassed by McCoy. I destroyed it in Hanalei when Simon Anderson invented the Thruster and I sawed the swallow tail off and glued on an extra fin. It never worked the same after that.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Hard to remember since I was 5. But I do remember how my dad would hold my feet on his longboard and how I would fall backwards on his shoulders with his head between my legs.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young person?
All of the men who helped raise me up and teach me the ways of the water. Taff Kennings, Graham Bambery, Peter “Tram” Tremain to name a few. Besides that, my childhood heroes were Tom Carroll and Michael “MP” Peterson.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Another tough question. I would have to say Bali. The beauty and culture there ignited my artistic inclinations. That’s where I first tapped into the mystical realm which is still alive for me today.

Who/what inspires you?
What? Nature. Who? I would have to say the Buddha. Not just the Buddha as a person in a story, but the idea of striving for the nature of the Buddha within yourself. That inspires me.

What is your process for creating your art?
Now, wouldn’t you like to know? So would everybody else! I have a hard time answering that question because I have somehow, through my own experimentation, over many years of trial and error, developed a technique that, as far as I know, is completely unique. I think, at least for now, it would be prudent of me to keep it that way.

But I can tell you the basics. I create à bas-relief of hand cut layers, which I have first designed like a very complicated multi-dimensional puzzle. Both the designing and the cutting take many hours of intense concentration. After I hand build the layers, my latest one having 30, I gold leaf the whole thing. Then I paint the color parts with oils. This sounds easy enough, but this step actually takes the longest. Each little edge has to be cut in with tiny little brushes, and requires at least 2 to 3 layers. This is about the time when I start to lose my sanity and usually need some kind of vacation by the time I’m done. So maybe that’s why I’m still coveting the process; it’s just not for everybody.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To be happy and grateful. To enjoy life to it’s fullest and to respect others.

What are you most proud of?
My mother every time she finds a sunrise shell on the beach in Haena. I’m thankful and proud that I have pulled myself out of some pretty dark spots in my life and am now fulfilling my dreams as an artist.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has always been in my life. It is so much of who I am and it holds so much meaning. Surfing is for play and for meditation. Although there has been a few scares and hair-raising moments, especially here on Kauai, surfing has always been a place to go and ease my mind. I believe that water is truly a precious element. Water is the source of all life and I think my art has evolved a form of reverence. Plating waves in gold seems appropriate in regards to the value I believe water and the oceans hold in this world.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Knowing I’m alive and part of this incredible journey. The support I get from my loved ones. And catching that perfect wave.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
For me, the path of surfing was carved by the legends of the past. As far as the future of surfing goes, I am impressed by the talent in some of the young guns around here. Guys like Dune Kennings, John John Florence, and Sebastien Zietz, the Kauai Boy who won the Triple Crown this year, and that guy I saw on YouTube who flipped his board like a skateboard.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
My favorite board is a 6’4″-6’10″ rounded pintail. My favorite surf spots are Tunnels on Kauai and Matakana Island NZ.

What’s your favorite meal?
I’m a sucker for Indian and Thai food – vegetarian, of course. But then there’s ice cream…

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Honestly, my iPod is gathering dust. Not because I don’t listen to music. I listen to hours upon hours of music when I’m painting so I have to keep it fresh. I have become hooked on online radio like Pandora. My stations are varied but I will get on a kick and go with it for days. My current station is all 70’s Soul and Funk. Somehow it’s hitting this nostalgic spot and it often makes me laugh. Some of is just plain ridiculous! This is how I entertain myself while I sit for hours on end.

What causes/organizations do you support?
Definitely Non-GMO and Save Our Seas. And if I could start one it would be to support the victims of Agent Orange. It continues to cause birth defects in children in Vietnam – just wrong.

What are you most grateful for?
I’ve always considered my art as a gift I’ve been given. I can’t imagine my life without it. It’s so satisfying to create things I can be proud of and it gives my life a real sense of purpose.

What’s next for Troy Carney?
I’m planning a trip back to New Zealand to reconnect with my roots and we’ll see what comes of that – more inspiration most likely. And then I’m just gonna keep on painting the sea and crazy Buddha waves.

Learn more about Troy Carney and his art here.

Every surfer remembers his first surfboard. It goes along with memories of his first wave, first time standing up on the board, first surf trip, and the time spent with friends during these experiences. With all these memories there usually is a story (or two), so of course I thought I should share with you all.

In those days, before the dawn of history, my family lived in Seal Beach, California. Nearby lived Jack Haley, a lifeguard at Seal Beach and a great surfer as well. He even won the West Coast championship at Huntington Beach. Jack had a 9’5″ board that was very beat-up and pretty much waterlogged. All boards back then were made out of balsa wood, a very light wood, but porous, and therefore they absorbed water. This is in contrast to today’s boards which are made of closed-cell foam and therefore impervious to water.

Anyway, when I was seven years old, my dad bought the board from Jack, stripped off the fiberglass, and stored it in our attic where we had forced air heating so it would dry out. It sat in the attic for about six months until it was thoroughly dry. Then my dad shaped it down to eight feet and took it to a boatyard in Long Beach to be fiberglassed. I got to pick out what color I wanted; I chose red. All in all, they charged him about $10 to glass it and add a fin.

I kept that board in my bedroom and surfed every day for the most formative years of my life. When I got my first ding, I was almost in tears. My best friend was hurt! When my dad got home from work that day I asked him to fix it. He replied, “I will do it tomorrow.” I almost yelled at him, “No, please do it now! My buddy is hurt!”

Well, because I spent a lot of time in the water with this board, by the time I turned fourteen, I was a pretty accomplished surfer. By then there were commercial board makers springing up, so I sold the board to a friend and saved up $75 for a new board by Greg Noll. He built the board in his mother’s garage in Hermosa Beach and it took him two months to finish.

I have owned many boards since then, and have shaped many thousands, but I will never forget my first board…

Robert August is a surfing legend and was the co-star of the now classic Bruce Brown film, The Endless Summer. Read more about Robert on his blog here. The Robert August Surf N Turf charity to raise money for local kids in Costa Rica is happening March 15–18, 2013.

Mele Saili is a talented young surfer/artist and a San Diego native. Playing in the foam dust from her shaper grandfather’s company, Larry Gordon of Gordon & Smith, Mele’s acquired an equal love for surfing and art. We spoke with Mele to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up in Pacific Beach, San Diego, five blocks from the beach. With my dad being a shaper and Larry Gordon of Gordon & Smith Surfboards as my grandfather, it has really given me a foundation to be involved with surfing from a young age. I remember when I was a kid playing hide and go seek in the G&S warehouse and playing in the foam in the shaping bay while watching my dad shape boards.

While attending private school, I played a lot of sports growing up and was good at them until I started surfing at 13. I lost interest in everything else and all I wanted to do was surf. I would surf every day. Sometimes in the summer I would be out for 4–5 hours at a time. And I spent plenty of time in the parking lot down at Tourmaline Surf Park, where I became a part of a wonderful surf community which became like a family to me.

What inspired you to begin creating art?
My mother and brother are talented artists and I’ve always been inspired by them. Art was always a creative outlet for me to make the fairy tales in my mind come to life. My sketchbook acted as a visual journal of the things that interested me.

What do you hope to create in the mind of the person viewing your art?
When I first begin a painting, I start with a concept. I sort of zone out and allow my imagination to determine the course of the piece. I really focus on aesthetics and detail so hopefully people can appreciate that when they observe my work. Most of my pieces are portraits of women so I try to express their mood through their body language – but more importantly in their eyes. I don’t bother making up an elaborate story behind my paintings in order to dictate what the observer should think, but rather present the painting to the viewers and let them create their own interpretation of it.

Tell us a little bit about the “Salty Sisters” concept
Salty Sisters represents women surfers who find themselves connected through the sea, who are not related by blood, but the salt water in their veins.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Patience.

Who/what inspires you?
The women that I paint look a lot like people I know without meaning to do so. The beauty that my art seems to convey is subconsciously inspired by the beauty of my friends. Also I am always drawn to stylish surfers like Rell Sunn, Belinda Baggs, Jen Smith, Kassia Meador, Billy Schnyder, Isaac Wood, and Kevin Connelly for inspiration when it comes to surfing as well.

What are you most proud of?
The family I come from.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has given back to me in so many ways. It has presented travel opportunities and is the reason for the amazing people that are in my life. I feel more comfortable walking on my board that I do walking down the street. I couldn’t imagine what my life would be like if I didn’t surf.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Having a paintbrush in one hand and a surfboard in the other.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
First, I’ll just state the obvious, Joel Tudor. He’s one of the most influential surfers of our time. He is redefining a surfer as someone who can ride anything from a shortboard to a longboard and all the in-between. Secondly, Amanda Chinchelli. She is the founder and designer of Seea Bathing Suits. She’s stylishly talented and is paving the way for a new direction in women’s surfing and surf fashion. Her product alone is amazing, but beyond that it’s the image of Seea that is actually creating a change. Seea exudes femininity and style by drawing interest to female surfers through their natural beauty and surfing rather than showing skin.

What “Golden Rule” do you live by?
Accept others as they are.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board at the moment is my 9’2 single fin, which my dad made. He told me to come by his place one day and surprised me with it. It turned out to be the best board I’ve ever owned. Some of my favorite spots I surf are PB Point, Sunset Cliffs, The Shores, and San O sometimes, but I probably love surfing Swamis the most.

What’s your favorite meal?
Roasted veggies!

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Although it’s the 21st century I don’t own an iPod, but I’m currently listening to artists like Cocorosie, Soko, Crooked Bangs, Lana Del Rey, Florence and the Machine, The Growlers, The Black Lips, and of course Marvin Gaye!

What are you most grateful for?
I’m grateful for so many things. Most of all I would say I’m most grateful for the people I have in my life because they are so supportive of what I do. My grandmother especially. She always has words of wisdom for me and has such a positive spirit. I know I’m lucky to have her and I aspire to be more like her.

What’s next for Mele Saili?
I am leaving for a month-long surf safari to Spain, France, and Morocco. Three friends are starting in Spain and will be meeting up with Margaux Ammon-Tucoo (an artist/surfer advocate for RVCA) in Biarritz, then we’re flying down to Morocco, surfing and filming all along the way. When I get back I’ll be working more with Seea Bathing Suits as well as continue to focus on my art.

Josh Gilberts is a talented young surfer from El Segundo, California. A team rider and test pilot for Tyler Surfboards, Josh can be seen regularly at El Porto mixing it up with a blend of noseriding and bombing big waves. We spoke with Josh to learn more. 

What was your childhood like?
My father was in the military, so we did a lot of moving around when I was really young. I was actually born in Japan. I think I was 5 when we moved to El Segundo so I’ve been here almost as long as I can remember. My parents were always very supportive in anything that I wanted to pursue growing up. When I was 13 and wanted to start surfing and bag AYSO and Little League, they just said “Okay”.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I was 13 and it was an 8’0″ Soft Top from Dive N’ Surf.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I don’t remember the first time I stood up but, I remember my first open face wave. I was surfing the Jetty during the summer. The wave was actually a left and I stood up goofy foot and went down the line. It felt good but awkward and since then I’ve been a regular foot (laughs).

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
I looked up to my dad and grandpa a lot. They both think and behave in a similar manner to me so I have always been able to relate to them. My grandpa was one of the most educated people I have ever met, anything from medicine to planes, to literature, he could cover it all.

When I was 12 or so, I started to spend a lot of around Tyler’s shop and got to know a lot of the old “car guys” pretty well. I enjoyed hearing their stories of growing up in the same area I did 50+ years ago. A lot of my friends at school would give me grief for hanging out with guys who were 30–70 years old but I thought it was a great experience.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have really not travelled that much but, I would have to say the Pacific Northwest is my favorite place. I have family up there so that’s part of the reason. It is also a huge change of pace from living in a suburb of LA. Up there it seems like everyone takes the time to say hello or just have common courtesy, which is becoming more and more rare here.

Who/what inspires you?
It sounds cliché but anybody in some sort of an underdog position. Anytime someone is told they can’t do something and then they go out and accomplish it, that is what inspires me.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Probably to not waste time on people who are not worth your time and to try to stay positive.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No.

What are you most proud of?
My friends and family.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
Surfing has had a huge impact on my life. Without it, I would not have my current job or friends.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Besides surfing, maybe driving or riding. I’m wired weird, I like to just sit behind the wheel of a car and just keep driving – doesn’t matter where to.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
As far as board builders, I think guys like Tyler who have been modifying and advancing surfboards for 30+ years are paving the way. There is a large group of guys who have dedicated their lives to building surfboards and I think that is very respectable. And for surfers, guys like Dane Reynolds are really pushing the limits of what can be done on a surfboard.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
It’s a tie between my 10’0″ Tyler Noserider and 9’2″ Tyler Baby Gun. I can get on either one and know exactly what they are going to do. My favorite spot is the Jetty.

What’s your favorite meal?
Beach Mex Fish Tacos.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Old Crow Medicine Show, David Allan Coe, Hank Williams, Buck Owens, Waylon Jennings, Merle Haggard, Chuck Berry, Elvis… pretty much anything but rap.

What are you most grateful for?
My friends and family. I am very fortunate to have such a positive group of people around me.

What’s next for Josh Gilberts?
I’m going to eat a bowl of Captain Crunch, a donut or 3 and then check the waves.

Photography by Brent Broza, Kiyo Okada, and Brad Jacobson/ Civic Couch.

Locals and Legends is a series of over 50 portraits taken by photographer Shaun Fenn of the many personalities that inhabit the San Onofre surfing area. Some are legends, some just regulars – but all have an interesting story and are full of stoke. We spoke with Shaun to learn more about his photographic journey and have chosen to show a few select images.

What was the inspiration behind this series?
I have been living in the San Francisco Bay Area for 16 years and really missed the Southern California vibe – things like good waves and warm water. Glenn’s site Liquid Salt was really the inspiration. I think he has done an excellent job capturing the aloha of our sport and its heritage.

Glenn and I spoke about Sano and how much we loved going there. He had this idea of a large collection of portraits to capture some of the personalities there. I love the process of immersing myself in interesting cultures and trying to capture that story. This project was very close to my heart for me since I grew up in Dana Point and spent time surfing Lower Trestles and many of these locals were household names when I was growing up. Glenn then introduced me to Barry Haun and Dick Metz at the Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente. Barry was instrumental in coming up with an organic list of prominent locals we needed to include.

What were some of the difficulties or obstacles?
Well the obvious was logistics. Anyone who shoots commercially understands how difficult the state parks can be. San Onofre is considered a state run park and therefore falls under their very subjective regulations. (Even though the San Onofre Surf Club and The Hawaiian Surf Club do a great deal of the maintenance of San Onofre as we know it.) According to them I was shooting commercially because I had a nice camera and I looked “professional”.

Another challenge was gathering people together, never easy when there is no money involved. Being associated with Barry and the Surfing Heritage Museum was very helpful in building momentum. It was also important to come up with a lighting approach that I could use out on the beach, and also travel as far as Washington without too much trouble.

What did you learn from the experience?
I enjoy real people, “Salt of the Earth” if you will. And those people can be found everywhere, whether golfing in Ireland, fly fishing in Idaho, or surfing in your home town.

Do you have any favorites?
I really don’t. We still have plenty more to shoot. I only regret I didn’t get to shoot Terry Martin before he passed away. I came down to shoot him too late. I was fortunate enough to meet him when he shaped boards for a friend of mine. He was such incredible shaper and person. If we are able to have a show of these images it will be dedicated to him.

I tend to be drawn to people with a sense of humor. Terry Senate and Greg Noll were 2 of the funniest people I met. And then of course jamming on the ukulele with “Crazy” Casey…

What plans do you have for the images?
These portraits really only tell part of the story. Every single one of these people have such an amazing story! You really need to have that context to get the full impact. Glenn and I are working on a show of these images printed large with a bio accompanying each image.

I hope the images are strong enough to stand on their own but what you don’t get is, THIS IS THEHobie Alter — pioneer extraordinaire, Paul Strauch – definition of a legend in surfing, Grandkids of Tom Metzger – Founder of San Onofre Surfing Club, Greg Noll – icon of surfing history, Steve Pezman – Surfer / Surfers Journal, Lyndsey Steinriede – 2011 Women’s Longboard Champion, the list goes on and on. These people are not chasing money or fame they are just all about the stoke. It was an honor and a pleasure to be able to spend some time with them.

Whats next for Shaun Fenn?
Put down the camera for a bit and get back in the water.

Photographer Shaun Fenn was born and raised in Orange County, California and grew up surfing Blackies and 54th back in the “Echo Beach” days. He started surfing Russel surfboards, then moved to Timpone shaped thrusters. He surfed around the world, with his favorite spot being Jeffrey’s Bay in South Africa. Lower Trestles is his favorite wave in the states. Shaun moved to SF Bay Area in mid 90’s and currently splits his time between San Francisco and Dana Point, CA. and loves spending long, warm afternoons surfing Sano with his kids. Shaun is a lifestyle and location photographer represented by Paula Gren. Find out more about Shaun’s photography here.

By John Durant

The outline of a hand-shaped surfboard is drawn directly on the foam using a rigid template as a guide so the left and right rail curves match. Templates – like an enormous set of French curves – lean nearby, out of the way and they all have names. Often it’s a surfboard model or the name of another shaper – once in a while a template will have the ultimate distinction: the name of the surfer for whom the board was designed.

The outline curve of the surfboard is drawn all at once – five or six feet at at time and the sound the pencil makes on the rough, skinned blank has a kind of resonance. It’s not like drawing on paper – the sound travels through the foam with a shearing hiss – like ten feet of silk being torn, or maybe a breaking wave. That sound is unusual and specific: if you can hear it, you’re having a board made. If you hear that sound in Lance Carson’s shaping room, you’re in the sacristy of the high church of surfing where experience, art and dexterity all come together.

Lance Carson not only shaped boards for the the best surfers in the world – he was one of them.Skip Frye told me once: Lance owned the nose. For generations of surfers, the name Lance Carson was synonymous with Malibu and his boards – particularly the big pintails – are at home in long point waves, but there’s more to it than that: the big pintails are goddamned beautiful. Achingly beautiful. Pure art.

Caption: Lance Carson in the shaping room – January 21st, 2013. 

Author John Durant is an assignment and fine art photographer based in San Diego, CA. Find out more about John and his work, here and here.

By Bruce Cowan

Paul Gross is a former editor of Surfer Magazine, a renowned surfboard designer and shaper, and the creator of the 4th Gear Flyer surf mat. Paul started mat surfing as a youngster in 1960, and his passion for the sport continues to this day. In our second interview with Paul, we ask him more about his deep involvement with matting.

Many surfers are extremely enthusiastic about the mat riding experience. How do you explain that response?
I truly believe that mats put surfers in touch with the deepest, most honest aspects of surfing. And surfing, even at its worst, is an incredible experience. So mats give the purest taste of something that’s already amazing.

Obviously, there are a lot of social barriers to mat surfing, since mats don’t come off as cool to a lot of people. So surfers who are willing to try mats already have an element of adventure and individuality. They’re predisposed to accepting the experience for what it is, then following their hearts from there. The result is a relatively small, but seriously chuffed society of mat junkies.

Who are your influences in surfing, shaping and mat riding?
When it comes to shaping and surfing, obviously George Greenough and Greg Liddle. But Skip Frye, Reynolds Yater, Tony Staples and Spencer Kellogg are people I look up to as well. They’ve all been hull shapers at some point, so I guess that’s at the root of it.

I learned to surf riding a mat, so flat rocker and round rails were a natural board design genre for me to fall into. The style of riding between mats and hulls is so similar. Letting the rails do most of the work. Controlled drift. Lots and lots of fun. And most people don’t notice it even if they’re sitting in the water right next to you!

As far as mat riding, what’s really neat is to see a generation of younger riders take what’s out there – the new mat designs and all the instructional footage of great mat riders – then go out and do it on their own. But George’s paradigm as a mat surfer is truly all-encompassing. The universe of potential has already been unearthed.

How long have you been making mats?
I started making mats in the summer of 1983. We had a little house in Carpinteria, and I cleared out the second bedroom and converted it into a mat building shop.

What advice do you have for someone thinking about getting a mat or someone who has just gotten one and is looking to add mat riding to their quiver of long boards, short boards, Alaia, Paipos and handplanes?
The thing that I continually harp on when talking with surfers who ask about mats is that there’s going to be a learning curve. And the more experienced and talented they are as surfers, the harder the learning curve can be. Often times, someone who’s never even been in the ocean will connect with mats faster than someone who has been surfing at a high level for 30 years. Newbies have less to unlearn.

The most satisfying experiences I’ve had is with surfers who transition to mats after 30 plus years of riding conventional boards. They give mats a try, sputter around for a week or two, then suddenly crack the code and say, flat out, it’s the best surfing experience they’ve ever had. And this happens like once a week.

We ran a tongue-in-cheek posting on Surfmatters a while back claiming that if you take up mat riding, you’ll make at least a thousand dollars because you’ll end up selling all your other gear… boards and stuff. We ended up getting dozens of serious emails from mat riders saying that’s exactly what happened to them.

Another issue I face is trying to convince experienced surfers that the dimensions of mats won’t translate to their own experience. It’s gotten to the point where I won’t even discuss numbers anymore. Guys will email and say they want a mat, but make it “this long,” because their favorite paipo is that long. But mats are perfectly parallel, and they carry their thickness nose to tail. And they are super light and super buoyant. So an inch of length on a mat means a lot more than an inch of length on anything else in the water. Plus the dimensions change from moment to moment while riding a wave, all at the whim of the rider.

I ask surfers to put themselves in my hands, and accept what I’m doing as being at least pretty knowledgeable. 9 times out of 10 they do, and it turns out fine.

You recently added the Omni in your mat lineup and it’s been a big hit gathering from all the chatter on the Web. What goes into the design of a new mat?
The Omni was the hardest mat I’ve ever had to design. It’s right in the middle of the size range of mats, so it had no particular preference in terms of what kind of wave it likes, or what its strong suit would be. Wide mats are clearly meant to plane out easily on small waves, and narrow mats hold in well in larger waves… so those concepts are clearly focused and sort themselves out fairly quickly. But the Omni took over two years to find it’s voice… because it isn’t naturally good at any one thing, just a conservative, easy going shape.

The breakthrough came when I was studying some old footage of George riding one of his old Hodgmans. I picked up on something that I’d never noticed about how the mat handled. I knew Kirk Putnam had that same mat in his garage. (KP raided George’s garage when he was moving to Australia in the mid-90’s.) So I asked Kirk to send it up to me so I could reassess it. I say reassess it, because I’d seen that mat probably a hundred times… but that was nearly 40 years ago. I wanted to look at it with fresh eyes.

As soon as I got it in hand and analyzed the interior design – how the I beams related to the overall shape – I realized what made that mat go so well. I built a mat and interjected the ideas that I suspected would work… and on the very first wave I rode with it, I could feel it surfing at a higher level. The final shape of the Omni had a few further improvements, but essentially, it was a goer right off the building board.

I’ve plugged those same ideas into out other models, BTW. Any 4GF build after Aug 1, 2012 has them lurking inside.

What’s funny is that the Hodgman mat wasn’t a surfing design per se, just something they put together that was a reasonable sized thing to float on. But in the process of doing that, they unintentionally got something right that resurfaced nearly 50 years later, and initiated a significant step forward in mat design.

In addition to mats you are also a sought after surfboard shaper. What kinds of boards are in your quiver?
Right now, none! I don’t own a single surfboard or kneeboard. I’ve built hundreds for myself in the past 45 years – 47 years actually – and learned something every time. But in the end, mat surfing is the purest form of wave riding for me, and that purity speaks to what attracted me to surfing in the first place.

That said, I’m constantly fooling around with board design using the Aku Shaper software. If I build myself a board tomorrow, it would be a 9’ roundtail single fin hull. The only surf condition that I wished I had a conventional board for is small, super clean point surf… which is hard to ride with a mat if there are more than a few other surfers out.

Who else in the surf industry is doing innovative design work in your opinion?
Wow, that’s a loaded question! I would say anyone who’s designing outside the contest paradigm has my respect. The thruster scene is being attacked by a lot of talented builders, but the end-game seems to be photo ops and contest results… and that kind of spoils the whole thing, IMO.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it affected your life?
I was aware of surfing from an early age. My father grew up on Oahu in the 20’s and 30s, so from what I heard as a kid, it seemed like a really neat thing to do even before I ever set foot in the ocean. But unlike most childhood dreams (like being a baseball player, playing in bands, etc) surfing lived up to its expectations. I never seem to outgrow it. No matter how much of myself I apply to surfing, it keeps thwarting my best laid plans. I think that’s true of every surfer who ever lived. We’re all being held hostage!

What’s next for Paul Gross?
One thing that I’ve realized in the past few years is that continuing to develop mats is something that will always fulfill me. No need to search any further.

Surfing has been a constant for me since I was young, and serves as the standard bearer for anyone meet or anything I do. I guess in that way it occupies the same psychological role as religious faith. I’m an agnostic, and my wife is a devout Catholic… and it’s amazing how my surfing and her religion influences our respective lives in the same way. I see it in her Catholicism, and she sees it my surfing. Neither discipline is anywhere near perfect, but the result of believing in it is.

Learn more about Paul Gross in our earlier interview with him here. To learn more about his 4th Gear Flyer surf mats, click here. Bruce Cowan is an avid matrider and writes for the blog, 23 Breaths.

 Photography: (1) George Greenough by Dan Gross, (2) Bruce Cowan by Jason Hall, (3) George Greenough, Paul Maisel, and Paul Gross by Dan Gross, (4) Schuyler McFerran by Ken McKnight, (5) Matt Brown by Jason Hall, (6) Mary Mills by Ken Samuels, and (7) Brett Cook by Michele Cook.

Christopher Zibach is a California surfer/artist who creates unique surf inspired art and illustrations. His work combines quirkiness, Fifties-style imagery, and a heightened sense of cinematic lighting. We spoke with Christopher to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
It was filled with trips to Mammoth, sponging in Ventura, and a Golden Retriever named Scooby.

What inspired you to begin creating art?
Skateboards, Nintendo, and Ren and Stimpy.

What do you hope to create in the mind of the person viewing your art?
A memory of a good time they had with water in its different forms.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
The Channel Islands. The surf spots there are epic. The boat trip out of Ventura is pretty surreal.

Who/what inspires you?
Dawn patrols and ugly weather.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Photoshop. Also, how to crock pot BBQs pork (it’s awesome).

What are you most proud of?
The body of work I have made since I quit pot.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
It’s my place to go when I need to press the reset button. Anytime I seem to be stuck on something, I can count on the pause between sets to figure it all out

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Catching that left all the way in and coming home for breakfast burritos.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Well for my younger self I’d have to say Ozzie Wright. I was copying his smoking bunny girl art in high school and was excited this guy was more than a surfer. Andy Davis is always creating the most stunning graphic art a camera can’t grab. Tyler Warren is shaping boards and designing graphics for competition flyers — all the while being an incredible surfer.

What “Golden Rule” do you live by?
Can’t stop won’t stop.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
5’10 Byrne Peanut w/ quads. It’s the first board where I’m stoked on the performance and the graphic I painted on it. When it’s on, Zero’s is a blast. Left point breaks are few and far between out here.

What’s your favorite meal?
Sushi and/or a burger.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Future Islands — Long Flight.

What are you most grateful for?
Being born an artist in more ways than one and a girlfriend who is as crazy as I am.

What’s next for Christopher Zibach?
Make a short surf/snow animation and surf this weekend.

To learn more about Christopher Zibach and his art, click here.

By Rhea Cortado

Guy Okazaki’s long shaping career feels as if it has literally come full circle. The first boards he made in the mid-1960s in Venice were longboard outlines, scaled down to shorter lengths at the dawn of the transition. Today his most requested models are modern experiments of a similar form — wide-noses, full-templates and pintails. And like those brilliant feral surfers that no one knew about, he has lived (and nearly died) more than most surfboard shapers. Guy’s still in Venice after first landing in Los Angeles from Hawaii in 1955, progressing and refining his craft in his trademark laid back style. We spoke with him to learn more.

When did you start shaping?
I got into shaping by accident. It was around ’67, in Hawaii. I was surfing with Leroy Achoy andRabbit Kekai. They were the older guys in the Waikiki surf scene. Rabbit started riding a shortboard. It was about 7’6”. Leroy borrowed it and just started ripping with it. The first shortboards I had ever seen. Rabbit was doing things that modern surfers are doing today. He was doing big off-the-lips, backside vertical off-the-lips, re-entries, incredible stuff. One day we were just sitting there watching him and he paddles over to us and goes, “Follow me! I’m gonna teach you guys how to do a rollercoaster!” We paddled out with him and he showed us, and put us on his board, and I was hooked.

Later, I came back here (to L.A.) and was surfing with Dewey (Weber). I went to the Weber factory, and I asked (Harold) Iggy if he would shape me a couple shortboards. He just said, “No, I don’t want to do that” in a teasing sort of way. At first I was shattered. I was like, “You don’t want to do that?” He said, “If you want do it, do it yourself. You can use my room as soon as I’m finished.”

So that’s what I did. I shaped myself a shortboard and started surfing it out in Venice, Santa Monica, and Topanga. Then my friends kept borrowing my board! I’d come home and my board would be gone. I was like, “Who’s got my board and where can they be?” This was becoming a problem. So I went back and made another one, so now there were two. But once word got out that I had another one, I never got the first one back! My friends started passing it between them. Then it was like 5 guys were sharing my first board. So I thought I’ll just make four more. The first time I shaped more than one board is when I made four for my friends. And that was it.

What were you doing at Dewey Weber?
Everything. I was the youngest guy there just hanging out. I was probably like 14 or 15. My job interview was hilarious. My friend who worked there called me up and said, “Summer’s coming around. They need some guys. Why don’t you come and apply for a job?” They had just moved from Pacific Ave to Lincoln. I said, “I want to fill out an application for a job.” They said, “We don’t have any applications.” I said, “Well, okay. I’d like to get a job.” “Okay. Go talk to Dewey.” I walked into the room, Dewey and his manager Pete recognized me. The first question was, “Do you have a sister?” I go, “Yeah.” “Older or younger?” “Older.” “You’re hired.” That was it. Those guys were great and it was a riot working there!

When did you start selling your boards and making a living as a shaper?
In the ‘70s. I didn’t have a job. My dad arranged for an interview for me at Allstate to go sell insurance. I put on a shirt and I remember sitting in the bathroom tying my tie and I’m looking at the mirror and I just had this epiphany. I looked at myself and went, “I can’t do this for 20 years – I can’t even do this right now.” I had just finished tying my tie and walked out. I thought my dad would be really pissed or disappointed and would react when I told him, “Hey Dad. I can’t do this. I can’t put this shirt on and tie a tie and go to work like this.” He just said, “Okay. No attitude or you’re out of here, or you’ll have to go find another job.” He was great.

Tell us about some of your travels
I was really lucky, I got to travel a lot when I was younger and was able to spend some time in Australia. I met a guy named Joe Larkin. At the time, he was just this wild man. He’d drive down the road, hands off the wheel and he’d roll a cigarette while he’s talking to me on the freeway – flat out pedal to the metal! He mentored Michael Peterson. That’s who I got thrown in with. I was surfing with Michael Peterson and Peter Townend! They were just getting ready to go to state championships. And they were surfing really, really hard. Those were the two guys I surfed with at Kirra. They were so good, and at that time the world had yet to hear of them. The Australians were surfing these über flat, thinned out, more foiled boards, like what [George] Greenough pioneered in the early early ‘60s or mid ‘60s. So being exposed to the two schools was kind of a novelty. I felt like it was my obligation to take those designs and adapt them to California. That’s what I did. And that’s what I’m still doing!

Do you think anyone is doing anything progressive or revolutionary in shaping?
I hope so. I don’t want to sound like I’m putting it down, but I realize I have this unique perspective. For example, the twin fin reincarnation. I’m not a really big fan of that design because I was there for the original incarnation of the design. I made more twin fins than most guys making them today and so for me, I’ve been there done that. I realize not everyone has that same experience. There is a whole new crop of guys that want to experience it, so cool — it’s great for them. What’s new and innovative is now in terms of nuances. No one’s going to reinvent the tri-fin or the four-fin or the five-fin.

You have some fond memories of surf mats. Tell us more.
For a period of time, they were talking about banning surfing. There were even eras when you couldn’t surf some of the best waves. They would also ban a peak. With an air mattress you can still ride that wave. Once in Hawaii, we went onto the Bellows Air Force base and they had a restriction on surfing. We went there and the surf was just going off. I mean it was four feet, Hawaii style, A-frames everywhere up and down the beach, sheet glass with nobody out. Just me and my buddy Darrell. We started going up and down the beach asking, “Do you have a surfboard? Do you have fins?” I got an air mattress, surfed it until the skin fell off my chest. Getting barreled, pulling in and just having so much fun.

Who did you look up to when you were younger?
That list is huge. I’m always reluctant to answer that question because I know I’m going to leave out someone. Conrad Conha, Rabbit Kekai, Leroy Achoy, George Downing, Paul Strauch – he’s such a gentleman, a class act, and (Robert “Nat”) Young.

Then there was Harold Iggy, Dewey Weber, and Tak Kawahara, he was one of the Dewey Weber shapers and probably worked harder than anyone there. And Wayne Miyata, resident wild man and crazy person. Talk about fun – he was as fun as fun could be. These guys were like rock stars and they were making a lot of money. On Friday afternoons, they would go out and buy Porsches with their paychecks. This was back in the ‘60s. They were making anything from $1,500-$2,000 per week. Upper middle class was $30,000 a year. They would go to the bank, go into the car dealership, buy a new car and go back to work. It was just wild and crazy times back then.

Who inspires you?
Today? Just about everybody. I was watching the Bells contest and I was still blown away by Kelly [Slater]. The other day I got inspired by this guy who just started surfing but made an incredible leap. I’ve made boards for this guy that had only longboarded and he finally dared to try a 6’8.” He took it out and he called me later and said, “It was the most fun I’ve had surfing. It’s made my life.” How often do you get to hear that?”

And I’ve got this other kid (Noah Hill) that’s surfing who’s only 10 years old. He’s a phenom. He’s got the air reverses, the slobs, he’s got them frontside and backside, he’s working on switch stance now and he can do aerial nosepicks, He went to Hawaii for spring break with his parents and entered the Oahu surf contest for the Hawaii State Regionals and took first place on a Thursday. Then they heard about a Volcom contest on a Saturday at Makaha, they drove out there and he took first place in that. For a kid from California to go to Hawaii and win two major contests is pretty darn inspiring. He also inspires me because he’s the nicest, greatest, smartest kid you’ll ever meet.

Where are your favorite places to surf?
I look forward to the next best spot. I like Mexico and I love Hawaii. Can never get Hawaii out of my blood. I spend a lot of time in Kauai. Pakalas is a left point break that’s over 300 yards. Hanalei Bay is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. To surf there even when there is no surf, it can put a smile on your face. The rainbows up in the hills, the green, the beauty of the valley and the reef so colorful – it’s heaven! Oahu as far as quality of surf. No one talks about Town. I love the North Shore, Rocky Point, Velzys, and Sunset scares the shit out of me. But Town – I cry every time I go there. And when I paddle out, I feel like I’m born again. My earliest memories are being thrown in the water at San Souci Beach.

What makes you the most happiest in this world?
I’m married, so it would have to be my wife. My wife is one of the coolest people I’ve ever known and she’s a hoot. This friend of mine that worked at a surf shop said, “I have this friend of mine I’d like to you meet. I think you’d really hit it off.” So she introduced me to my wife-to-be and we did. We couldn’t be more different. She’s a redhead from New York. And I’m a grayhair from Hawaii. She’s just inspiring because she’s got that beginner mentality. She wants to go out every day no matter what the conditions are. I was always in that frame of mind of, “If the sun’s not out and it’s not at least waist to shoulder or above, and if its not glassy, and if its not the right tide, I ain’t going out there.” Now I’m surfing probably three to four times more than I normally would!

What are you grateful for?
I’ve been incredibly lucky. I feel I’ve been lucky my entire life. I’m grateful for the fact that I’m alive. I’ve been this close so many times. I’ve been given my last rites twice, I’ve been told I’d never walk again; all kinds of things. I can still surf. I’m immensely grateful for that.

What happened when they said you wouldn’t walk again?
I broke my neck from crashing my car. I was totally paralyzed for weeks and I was partially paralyzed for months.

What do you love about shaping?
What I love about it is the challenge to be able to create stuff, to design and play. I watch videos of people shaping and it seems simple, but I see the little nuances in everything. Like the blanks, I’ll look at the microscopic things. I like the challenge of trying to create something that’s gonna work—and by that I mean, surf well for the person who’s going to get that surfboard.

How do you determine what’s going to work for someone?
The most important thing is what they want to do with it. Back in the day they used to ask people, “Are you beginner, intermediate or experienced?” And then they would try and push you onto a board based on that criteria. I don’t find that valid anymore. I don’t think you should be an intermediate surfer, and therefor, surf a lesser board. I firmly believe there is nothing wrong with putting a beginner on a high performance board if given the finances. An analogy I like to make is this: When you first learn how to drive, does that mean you have to drive the shittiest car on the road? No, you can learn how to drive an Audi. You’re probably safer.

What does surfing mean to you?
When I first moved over here, all my friends were into different sports, not surfing. They were like baseball players and football players. They would ask me why I surfed. I would say, “I never thought about it.” When I was a little kid, growing up in Waikiki, everybody surfed. When we go to the beach, we had fishing poles, slings to dive with, goggles to dive with, surfboards to surf with, and a beach towel. It was just a part of my life!

What’s next for Guy Okazaki?
More of the same. Maybe some more travel. I enjoy doing what I’m doing. I do what I love.

Learn more about Guy Okazaki and his shapes here. Rhea Cortado is the author of the blog The Surftorialist. Photographs of Guy shaping and his portrait by Allan Nadel. Surf photography by Santo Rimicci and Michael Riggins.

Michael Paz is a surfer/graphic designer who undertook a self-initiated daily assignment to create an “Aloha” design for the year 2012. What resulted was a massive collection of designs that encompass a range of both contemporary and vintage themes.We spoke with Michael to learn more.

What was your inspiration in creating Project Aloha?
I had been the art director at Hollister/A&F for the past 5 years. I was unexpectedly laid off in Sept. of 2011. I spent the following month desperately looking for work. Working tirelessly with one company for so long I didn’t have the spare time to do other work, especially with the kids and family. I needed to give my portfolio some new life. I grew up in central Oahu in Hawaii and I felt getting back in touch with the islands was what I needed. I also wanted to get back into designing t-shirts, as being an art director at Hollister left me little time to actually design. I wanted/needed to have something to do every day, so Project Aloha was born in early November 2011. I also wanted to reach out to my friends and family on Facebook, and give them a daily dose of Aloha from all the way over here in Ohio. I wanted to show how universal the Aloha Spirit is and to see if I still had the ability to design everyday.

What is your background in art/design?
I always loved to draw. I can’t remember not drawing as a kid. My mom is an amazing artist, so I probably got some of her genes. I took two years of basic graphic design in high school. I thought I wanted to be a screenprinter. I quickly found out that I wanted to design t-shirts not print them on a daily basis.

In 1989, after graduating high school, I started a surf brand in Hawaii called NSU-North Shore Underground. Hawaiianbuilt, a sub-brand was started 2 years later. It became a full time job so I never got a chance to further any kind of art training or education.

We moved to California and I continued to work at NSU Hawaiianbuilt for nearly 10 years but ended up walking away from it because of some poor business decisions my partner and I both made. Michael Tomson asked me to become the art director at Gotcha and MCD, which if I was asked while in high school what my dream job would be, I’d have said Gotcha for sure. It was a tremendous opportunity to work with Michael, he is still one of my biggest influences. I owe much of where I’m at today to his belief in me.

In January of 2000, a headhunter contacted me about a position in Columbus working with Abercrombie and Fitch. Working at Abercrombie really whips you into shape design-wise. Fast paced and endless amounts of work taught me some valuable lessons. One of the most important is making something you created 5 minutes ago look like it has been on a t-shirt for the past 40 years. While I don’t agree with some of their business practices, my time there was more than worth it. I learned from the best.

What does Aloha mean to you?
It means so many different things, but I ultimately think that you can brighten someone’s day with an unconditional spirit, the Aloha Spirit. Have you told someone Aloha today? It never goes unnoticed and is always appreciated. My daily posts are meant to reach out and do just that.

What are some of the challenges in creating a design everyday?
The creating of a new design is not as much of a challenge, I should be able to do one easily for the rest of my life if I needed to. My wife is awesome, she also works from home and we’ve been able to balance our schedules to try and help one another, she has been super supportive despite the fact that I don’t have a steady full time income. That’s when you have freelance clients with deadlines and kids you need to shuttle to soccer games, or maybe go on vacation.

When I vowed to have one ready every day, that meant they had to be finished before I leave or I’m working while on the road. I choose to have them queued up and waiting. When I was in Hawaii recently for nearly 2 weeks, I had to finish 13 designs in the span of 3 days. I usually plan better than that, but I took on more freelance because it is important so that I can still feed my kids. Aloha never sleeps!

What has been the response to Project Aloha?
At first I think it was such a neat idea that I quickly amassed a bunch of “likes” on my Facebook page. But after 6 months, it seemed that it’s novelty had worn off. Maybe people thought that I couldn’t do it and were watching to see if I’d fail. It became clear that I had no intention of quitting. Soon after I started, and this has been steady, I would get a note here or there saying that they look forward to seeing the daily posts of Aloha. I’ve been told that it makes them smile. That makes it worth it right there.

What’s next for Project Aloha?
I’ve decided to take some of the more popular ones and actually turn them into “Aloha” shirts. Because of my desire to be a designer for a living, this seemed like the right thing to do. So far, the folks who’ve ordered my tees have been nothing but satisfied. Working at A&F made me change my standards and people seem to love the quality. I will soon have 366 designs (Leap Year), and I would love to have a retail space where I can showcase more than 10 designs at a time. I’d love to have a vintage t-shirt shop with over 200 different designs to choose from, albeit they’d all say Aloha! I also think that a coffee table book featuring all the designs would be pretty cool. The Year of Aloha, maybe. Oh, and my portfolio is stacked right now.

Find out more about Project Aloha. To buy Project Aloha, click here.

Alex Weinstein is a talented California-based surfer/artist. Shown internationally in galleries, his fine art paintings and sculptures combine a zen-like presence with the deep, dark mysterious sea, and easily go beyond the mere category of surf art. We spoke with Alex to learn more about him and his work.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up in Providence, Rhode Island riding skateboards.

When did you get your first surfboard?
1983. it was a 6’0” sunset shaped by ed wright with glassed on side fins and a box for the center fin. It was blue on the bottom and had a troppo-sunset airbrush fade on the top. It was like a flamingo-Corvette. Super slick and 70’s looking.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Total, obliterating clarity. Just suffocating, blinding happiness. But I have to admit that it didn’t come at first. I was in love with surfing before that moment arrived and struggled to get to that place but when that particular moment manifested, and it really did – my life changed.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Jason Crowley. He was a kind of savant/fuck up/rockstar/liar/genius/failure. As charismatic as anyone I have ever met; brilliant; energetic and tirelessly self-destructive. And he did in fact destroy himself.

What inspired you to begin creating art?
It’s really simple: I like pictures better than words and I always have.

What do you hope to create in the mind of the person viewing your art?
If the work engages anyone else, I’m content. Whatever they bring to it is fine with me.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
There’s a spot in Brittany France, in the Bay of Audierne that is really special for me. It’s not unlike the Outer Banks of North Carolina: grassy dunes giving way to empty, flat beach. In my 20’s I spent a lot of time there with friends, sharing waves and bullshitting in the parking lot afterwards: pulling cold, gritty crepes out of plastic sacks with white-numb fingers and chasing them with warm Kronenbourg’s and bent cigarettes. Bunkers with graffiti sit tilted in the wet sand there, but otherwise it is pristine.

Who/what inspires you?
I’m lucky: I know a lot of artists and between us, the failures and successes collectively; the exchange of ideas, it’s inspiring. My wife.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To listen to my mother. Always listen to your Mom! Then you can talk to your Dad too.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Yeah, there’s few things in there.

What are you most proud of?
I take pride in the accomplishments of a few people I really care about.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
The feeling of riding a wave; going fast, the slur of the water and vibrations coming through your feet; the twisting perspective –all of that direct rushing sensation – I haven’t found that anywhere else. The obliterative potential of riding waves; the way it can utterly eclipse the world and just completely overwhelm you is something I don’t want to live without.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
The most?

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Surfing seems pretty wide-open right now. I like what Dane Reynolds is up to. He seems to bring an open mind to lots of different equipment and his surfing shrieks mainlined creativity, from where I’m standing. He’s just unbridled.

What “Golden Rule” do you live by?
Honesty’s the best policy.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I’m getting amazing boards from Cordell Miller. Right now it’s a 5’11” that Cordell made for me. Its epoxy and totally anemic at 2 3/16” thick but the rocker is a little relaxed and the outline is wider than normal so it has all the floaty bonus of a fish without the sticky forward rail that I was not liking in fishes. I have a couple favorite spots, both in the Atlantic but they’re local and will go unnamed. Sorry.

What’s your favorite meal?
I couldn’t narrow it to one meal. But I’ll say there’s a bar in Rhode Island that makes a clear-broth clam chowder. It’s basically like eating the smell of low tide, hot with potatoes, scant clams and sand. Fucking unbelievable. Gets me every time.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I listen to cd’s at my studio and I’m weird about putting something on and listening to it all the way through. I like guitar music and my taste wanders. Lately I’m listening to Lightnin’ Hopkins, Sonic Youth, old Metallica records and Ty Segall and I’ve been wallowing in a two-year-long full-blown infatuation with anything J Mascis-related, so it’s been heaps of Dinosaur stuff…

What are you most grateful for?
My sister and parents and my wife.

What’s next for Alex Weinstein?
Work in my studio continues but my thoughts are on a plane right now.

Christopher Kalima is surfer/waterman raised in Hawaii. Besides being featured in the epic bodysurfing film, “Come Hell or Highwater” alongside Mark Cunningham and Keith Malloy, Kalima is the creator of Buoy Alert, a sophisticated online wave tracking system. We spoke with Christopher to learn more.

Tell us a little bit about yourself
I was raised in Hawaii, but I was actually born in Boston. I remember riding my BMX bike a lot. The closest I got to bodysurfing before we moved to Hawaii was shooting down hills in a red snow saucer. Do kids still ride those things? My family lived in Massachusetts until I was eight, then we moved to Hawaii Kai, a suburb on the southeast side of Oahu.

My parents would take my brother and me to Waimanalo and push us into little wind swell bumps. That’s where I first started riding waves. We had an orange and blue Morey Boogie bodyboard with a top deck that felt like sandpaper. Three waves into a session and your stomach would be shredded. Plus there were always Portuguese Man-O-War floating around, and you’d inevitably get wrapped up in one. I’d head home with sashimi belly and itchy welts, but I couldn’t wait to get back out in the water.

Where were you educated?
Wave riding definitely dominated my free time, but I never cut school to do it. My parents were pretty strict and focused on the importance of education. As a result I was pretty studious. I was fortunate to attend Punahou School in Honolulu, then college at Harvey Mudd in California. It was a bit of culture shock for me moving to the Inland Empire. Harvey Mudd is a great institution, but it’s tiny and very academically intense. It’s kinda like the movie Real Genius, without Lazlo lurking in the closet. I managed to find a solid group of friends and graduated four years later with an engineering degree. I think I surfed three times during that stint in California.

After college, I went back to Honolulu and wasn’t quite sure what to do. I ended up working for an educational startup, then at a post-production house for a few years. Eventually I launched a design studio with a former colleague called Airspace Workshop. In the decade since we started, we’ve designed solutions in print, digital, and broadcast for both individuals and publicly traded companies. It’s a great experience running your own business, both extremely rewarding and challenging.

What is it about bodysurfing that you love?
Growing up, my family lived about two miles from Sandy Beach, but I wasn’t allowed to go there. At least, not at first. It’s an unforgiving shoreline, notorious for breaking necks and sending people off in an ambulance. My parents thought it was too dangerous, but I was intrigued. Eventually I started sneaking down there and flailing around in the shorebreak. I’d ride anything I could get my hands on (kick boards, bodyboards, those plastic service trays from McDonalds) or just bodysurf. The wave is so steep and hollow, it doesn’t matter what you’re on, you’re going to get barreled.

The scene at Sandys is dominated by bodyboarders and bodysurfers, but in hindsight I think my preferences were shaped more by the wave itself. Sandys just isn’t that fun to surf, although there were a handful of surfers that definitely made it look fun. As a grom I watched Gavin Sutherland punt full-rotation reverse airs at Half Point, and Eric Barton always surfed super fast and smooth. He actually got the first Teahupo’o cover shot in 94′. But at the same time, you also had this stand-up bodyboard movement with guys like Danny Kim, Chris Won, and Cavin Yap. Do a YouTube search for Cavin and check out his massive gouges at Off The Wall. Ridiculous! Then there was Jack Lindholm, Aka Lyman, and Kainoa McGee pushing the drop-knee. Kainoa was drop-kneeing second reef Pipe and getting spit out! For me, there was just so much potential in a bodyboard, especially in thick, hollow waves.

How is it different for you than stand up surfing?
I feel like mainstream surfing is focused on performance. Doing turns, hitting sections, there’s a lot of maximizing and maneuvering. Bodysurfing is much more symbiotic, because you’re in the wave, so you need tighter positioning to maintain speed. Stylistically, it’s much closer to longboarding than shortboarding. It’s really difficult to pump or drive around sections when you’re planing on your stomach. You’re working within the confines of the wave and it’s more of a subtle dance than a shred-fest.

That said, I find it interesting how people limit themselves to one particular style of wave riding, or judge someone strictly by what they ride. I still believe in the waterman/waterwoman ideal, where respect is earned by your experience and comfort with various crafts in all ocean conditions. Not just shortboards, longboards and alaias, but canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards too. They’re equally relevant to me, and each has its time and place.

Where is your favorite place to surf?
My favorite bodysurfing waves are hollow and maintain a steady speed down the line. It’s the Goldilocks of surf, not too fast and steep, but not too slow and mushy either. Point Panic does that when it’s working, that’s what makes it so amazing. You can sit on the foam ball in the barrel and read the paper. There’s a reef break at Sandy’s called Half Point that’s pretty fickle, but really fun when it’s on. In terms of size and shape, I haven’t bodysurfed a wave better than Pipeline. The Wedge is another great bodysurfing wave, and there’s a solid crew of talented bodysurfers who are always on it.

You appeared in the bodysurfing film, “Come Hell or High Water.” How did that come about? What was the experience like working with Keith Malloy and his crew?
I was living on the North Shore with Dave and Crystal Homcy and they kept mentioning this bodysurfing film that Keith was working on. They put me in touch with Keith, who explained the concept of the film to me and asked if I wanted to be involved. It was a no-brainer, the project sounded awesome.

The highlight for me was heading to Tahiti with Cunningham and Stewart. I have a tremendous amount of respect for both of those guys, and to be on a surf trip with them was amazing. Plus, who goes on a bodysurfing trip?! It was only the second surf trip I’ve ever been on! I was super psyched.

Both Mark and I were seeing Teahupo’o (and Tahiti) for the first time, and here’s Stewart, he’s one of the first to ride it! He was definitely the veteran down there. Things couldn’t have gone smoother either, the waves were flawless 4–6 feet, the perfect size for bodysurfing. Mike was a little disappointed that it didn’t get bigger, you could tell he wanted a bomb, but it was too perfect to complain.

And it wasn’t just the waves either, the whole crew was solid. Raimana and his family were amazing hosts. Dave Homcy and Jeff Hornbaker are legendary cinematographers. Chris Burkard was already in Tahiti shooting with Dan Malloy, so they joined the mission. I’m afraid to go back because it was such a perfect trip, it’d be impossible to top it.

Do people recognize you in the lineup?
As far as being recognized, I guess I have a few lines in the film that resonate with people. I was in Oceanside for the World Bodysurfing Championships and someone brought me a “Bodysurfing Magazine” they had made at home, to prove to me that there was in fact, a bodysurfing magazine. Aside from that, I’m still just a random guy floating in the line-up. I get the “what’s this guy doing?” look all the time.

What was your inspiration in creating your website, Buoy Alarm? What are your hopes for the site?
A lot of people in Hawaii track the NOAA buoys to tell when a swell is hitting, but it requires either calling NOAA for the report (888–701-8992) or checking the buoy website. I thought, instead of having to constantly check, what if you could set an alarm for a particular set of conditions and be notified when they were reported?

That’s basically what Buoy Alarm does. It allows you to set conditions on any combination of observations reported by a buoy, and once they’re met, it will notify you. I actually maintain a number of alarms across various stations, but one that’s most useful is set for long-period northwest forerunners on the Northwest Hawaii buoy. That way I’ll know when a new swell is starting to build and I can fine-tune the arrival time to my favorite spots.

We also record historical data (useful for looking at previous swells) and provide a detailed 5-day wind and swell forecast when available. I have a number of additional features in mind too. It’s currently invitation only, but if any Liquid Salt readers are interested in checking it out, they can register for an invitation and I’ll fire off an account for them.

Describe a perfect day.
Wake up on the North Shore of Oahu before dawn to a building west-northwest swell. Grab a coffee and head down to Ehukai for a look at the surf. Get a session in at Pipe before the photo-hungry masses start filtering out of the team houses. Ride my bike to the Haleiwa farmers market for lunch and some smoked ahi. Cruise back to the house for a quick nap, then swim out for an evening session. Watch someone get the wave of their life as the sun sets. Hoot from the channel. Head back to the house for a homemade dinner with friends and family. Pass out by 9 p.m. That’d be perfect, but I’m thankful for every day I’m able to get in the ocean.

What’s next for Christopher Kalima?
Hopefully a surf. I’ve been on the road the last few weeks helping my lady with her cookbook tour. It’s been great visiting different cities across the nation (we’ve been to 7 in the past two weeks), but I’m starting to dry out! We’re currently in San Francisco and the forecast looks good, so I’m going to head down to Ocean Beach tomorrow and try to avoid looking like a delicious seal.

To find out more about Christopher Kalima’s Buoy Alarm, check it out here. Photography by: 1) Tim McKenna, 2) Franco Tramontaro, 3) John Minar, 4) Chris Burkhard, 5) Franco Tramontaro, 6) provided by Christopher Kalima

Stephanie Schechter is a native California surfer living in San Diego. In addition to her talent on a log – her unlimited energy, enthusiasm, and style sets her apart in the lineup. We also found her wisdom at such a young age refreshing. We spoke with Stephanie to learn more.

When did you get your first surfboard?
When I first started surfing, I would ride hand-me-downs from my brother, or my dad would pick up used boards for me. I believe I got my first brand new surfboard around age six, but I ordered my first custom board when I was eleven.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I am sad to say I don’t remember the exact moment I first stood up on a surfboard, but I do remember my early days of surfing when my dad would hold me up on his board as we rode the waves. I found it to be absolutely thrilling, and have been enchanted ever since.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
As a child, I looked up to and admired my family members and my teachers. I felt as though they had infinite knowledge, and loved to learn new things from them.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have been fortunate enough to travel all over the world with my family. We have been to Mexico, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Peru, Indonesia, and others. Each trip we have taken has been amazing and special, but Peru has definitely been one of my favorites. We surfed Chicama, the famous mile and a half left, for about eight days, and then traveled to the Andes and visited Machu Picchu. I learned so much about the culture of the country, and scored some awesome waves!

Who/what inspires you?
I try to gain inspiration by at least one thing a day. Whether it is the beauty of nature, or some wisdom from a friend, I am always seeking new ways to grow as a person.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The greatest thing I have learned in my life is to always be myself. I went through a brief period of wanting to fit in when I was about ten, and I found that it was both frustrating and boring, so I went back to being weird.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Actually, no. I feel as though I have lived my seventeen years to the fullest, and I look forward to see what the future holds!

What are you most proud of?
I am most proud of my ability to learn something from every situation I find myself in. I am a very observant person, and I can take away knowledge from each experience I have, even if they are negative.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
To me, surfing is a passion, an outlet, and an inspiration. I have made my best friends through surfing, and I am able to meet people from all over the world. Through surfing, I have discovered my talent for networking, and I am able to release all my stress.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
In general, being with the people I love brings me joy. I am especially happy when I’m with my loved ones at the beach or in the water. The biggest rush of joy I get is when I am perched on the nose, and I look down and see only water rushing beneath me.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I think the small business people of the surfing world are paving the path. Each individual who contributes even a small part can influence the future of surfing.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board would be any board shaped by my dear friend Kevin Connelly. Every board he creates is not only a visual masterpiece, but also an amazing watercraft. My favorite surf spot is definitely Cardiff Reef. I have been surfing there my whole life, and I am proud to call it my home break.

What’s your favorite meal?
Pasta with pasta on top, with a side of pasta.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
My taste in music encompasses a fairly wide range of genres. I listen to a lot of surf punk, such as Beach Fossils and White Fence, and alternative/indie rock groups like Two Door Cinema Club, Grizzly Bear, Doctor Dog, and the Black Keys. My all-time favorite band is probably CAKE.

What are you most grateful for?
I am most grateful for my family, and the life I am fortunate enough to lead. I am so appreciative of all I have been given, and of all the opportunities I have had.

What’s next for Stephanie Schechter?
I have recently submitted all of my university applications, and I will hear back from schools around March. I applied to schools up and down the California coast, so I can keep surfing throughout college! I am looking forward to this summer, because my family is traveling to Taiwan for a surf trip. I can’t wait to graduate high school and begin my next adventures.

Photography provided by Chris Grant/Jettygirl. Find out more about this excellent women-specific online surf magazine here.

“I’m done bro, I’m done.” With those few words Mike rose to his feet in ankle deep water and began the 10 minute walk towards shore, dodging thick back urchins and sharp reef outcrops while assessing his wounds. Even from behind the waves I could see a stream of blood run down his arm, and t-shirt turn red across his shoulders.

This was in the first hour of a 10 day shoot. We both knew the reefs on the island were shallow; we’d been there before and surfed the waves, but shooting The Underwater Project dictates no boards and definitely no wetsuits — meaning the danger of losing skin was increased tenfold.

With a wary eye watching for rogue waves I watched as Mike left the water, he stumbled on a few urchin spines adding insult to injury; and I wondered if there was something else that I could shoot underwater.

– Mark Tipple, The Underwater Project

Spencer Hayes is a California surfer and the operations manager of Deus Ex Machina in Venice,CA. In this interview, Spencer explains the concept behind the global store that was originally started in Sydney, and what he hopes to accomplish with the US store.

Tell us a bit about Deus Ex Machina. How do motorcycles and surfing mix?
Deus Ex Machina is the Latin phrase for “God from the Machine”, and stems from classical Greek theater. The idea behind Deus Ex Machina comes from owner/partner Dare Jenning’s experiences growing up in South Sydney, Australia. The mix is pretty much a result of keeping yourself busy. You surf in the morning, the waves get blown out, and you want to have something to do in the afternoon. Similar to how the Dogtown guys started skating, Dare and his mates would surf in the morning then putt around on motorcycles all afternoon.

Bruce Brown, who, after making the film The Endless Summer, created On Any Sunday, a movie about riding dirt bikes. As the idea and ability of exploration came into view, and with the addition of surf racks attached to motorcycles, the original guys could get to different surf spots that were previously inaccessible and have more fun doing it. This surf/bike concept is very evident in Bali, as pretty much every two-wheeled transportation mechanism has a rusty surf rack welded to it, and when you pull up to the beach you park your motorcycle or scooter next to ten other rusty surf-racked scooters.

A further tie between the two sports is evident in the lifestyle and attitude they produce. Surfing and riding motorcycles are individual experiences that represent freedom, excitement, exploration, and foster more of an alternative lifestyle than what society might push on you. Deus Ex Machina in my eyes, is an idea that represents freedom, exploration, individuality, and having a grand ol’ time doing whatever it is you are doing – and doing it well.

How did you get involved with Deus?
I graduated college in 2010 with not a cent to my name. I had visited Australia and had done an exchange program at one of the universities in Sydney during my junior year of college. After graduation, I was really focused on the idea of going back to Australia to set up and begin my “career” as there seemed to be a lot of opportunity there. After working all summer and selling all of my boards, my clothes, my car (and my soul), I got a one way ticket to Sydney. I went with a good friend who ended up getting a job at Deus HQ in Sydney, and after walking into the store for the first time I was very impressed and caught the bug. I made good friends with the Deus Sydney guys and with my visa about to expire, I had to return to the States. Around this time, some of the guys from Australia were being sent out to open up Deus Venice. I kept showing up, and eventually started trimming weeds and doing basic construction on Deus USA. After a few weeks of jackhammering concrete, grinding iron beams, and sleeping in the parking lot, I was offered a position to help out with the new enterprise. All smiles from then on!

What is your background in surfing? What are you riding?
I am from Newbury Park, a small little suburb of Ventura and grew up surfing the points in Ventura and Malibu. As our coastline sits, it is pretty blocked from swell, so naturally a longboard was the best choice to get in the water. My small group of friends and I grew up surfing logs and got really into the longboard scene. This was right about the time that the film The Seedling came out so it seemed to me that we were in the right place at the right time. Eventually we got shorter boards as the winters would come, and a typical day trip to the beach would include a log or two, a fish, a thruster, and even a boogie board or lunch tray to body surf with. I then went to college in San Diego, which was much more open to swell, and got bit more comfortable on a standard shortboard. After having traveled to Australia, Bali and Mexico, I feel pretty comfortable on a log or shortboard, and even an alaia from time to time. Lately I have been really into these 7′-7’6″ Single fin tracker style models that we are making in Bali. I have a 7’2″ Stringerless shaped by Ellis Ericson, with a massive glass on flex fin. The thing turns on a dime and is super loose, and perfect for all of the points in the area. I am looking forward to some green room action on this baby this winter!

What are your responsibilities?
At Deus, there is a small team in place to handle many responsibilities. I would say that to work at Deus you must be able to do a little bit of everything. Being on the floor, my main responsibility is to inform customers that the name is pronounced “Day-us” and not “Doose” as the majority assume. Other than that I assistant manage the venue and handle all of the surf stuff and correspond between Bali, Sydney, and our location to determine which boards to get in, what wetties people should be wearing, and who the upcoming movers and shakers are in the industry. Pretty much it is a dream to have some sort of control as to what boards people are riding and to be able to open peoples’ minds and make them realize that a 6’0″ thruster isn’t the best board for waist high Malibu.

Explain the board building process, and the ideas behind the Bali shop.
To call our Bali location a store is a huge understatement. The place is friggin’ huge and houses a retail space, a restaurant, a stage, three admin buildings, a photo studio, a garage to build, paint and fix motorcycles, and lastly, a shaping and glassing bay. Our board process is set up so that a shaper can go out to the Bali location, knock out some boards for Australia, Bali, America, and Japan, and have the creative space to experiment and try new boards. Furthermore, there is a beach just 2 minutes away, a fun right that is the perfect testing grounds for new boards. Because we don’t have a ghost shaper knocking out boards and slapping a logo on them, we are able to constantly have new and innovative shapes come through the doors.

This past summer alone we have had Tyler Warren, Ellis Ericson, Jeff McCallum, Bob McTavish, Rich Pavell, Thomas Bexon, Chris Garett, and Neal Purchase Jr. mow down some foam. In the next few weeks Josh Hall and Ryan Lovelace will be headed out to come up with some new designs for old waves. Having this collab style of boards really keeps things interesting and we have the ability and inspiration to get some very different and functional shapes in the water. It is not uncommon to walk through our shop and see multiple designs you have never imagined before, and people are constantly picking up boards asking, “How does this thing actually ride?”

What are some of your goals for the Venice (USA) store?
The Deus USA enterprise will serve as the anchor and HQ for all of our domestic operations. Basically we want to use the space to build our presence in the community. We host two free events each month. The first Saturday of the month is based off of a theme, while the third Sunday is a BBQ with drinks and live music. Aside from building a presence in the community, we wish to support other events that we are into, such as the MSA Classic, and various motorcycle events around the country.

I suppose the goals of the Deus USA HQ is just to serve as a meeting point for people before a surf or after a motorcycle ride, and as an idea center where we can influence consumers around the States and globally. In the future I would like to see more people riding our boards, as they are extremely functional, as well as wear and utilize the clothing that goes along with the lifestyle. We may not be a sponsor of the US Open of Surfing, but we do put out some pretty comfy board shorts and wetsuit jackets, and our tee’s will keep you styling all summer. This is all in good time, and if we can have fun while doing it – I think we are heading in a good direction!

Find out more about Deus Ex Machina here.

Glide Surf Co. is an alternative surf shop created by surfer Phil Browne. When the recession hit, Phil decided to follow his passion and longtime dream to open his own shop. His goal was to bring a certain “West Coast vibe” and spirit to his local surfing community.

“I opened Glide Surf Co. with the desire to bring something new and different to NJ and the East Coast. With the Alternative Surf Craft based shops such as Thalia, Mollusk, Icons of Surf and others paving the way on the West Coast, the East Coast was seriously behind. I had been riding more and more alternative boards, and I was growing tired of ordering boards directly from the West Coast, sight unseen.

At the same time, like a lot of people in the the last few years, I found myself in the midst of a career change. I worked in corporate advertising for a number of years, fell victim to the recession and decided I was done with that world. Given my prior surf industry experience on both retail and competitive levels, I was drawn back to what I know best. With a Michael Tomson quote in my head of “Differentiate or Die,” I set out to start a surf shop unlike anyone has seen in NJ.

The Alternative Surf Craft mantra of “Ride Everything”, the influx of new young shapers and the fact that my surfboard tastes differed greatly than that of the surrounding shops made for an easy start from a surfboard perspective. However, I did not want to stop there. I wanted to push the idea of “Surf” apparel even further. Rather than carrying the typical mass-marketed surf brands, I looked for a combination of brands with deep roots in the surf industry, as well as brands that complement the surf lifestyle but offer more in the the way of fashion, quality and construction.

The response thus far has been amazing. Best of all, we have begun to change the thought process on what a surfer wants to ride and wear and their view of what a surf shop can offer.”

Find out more about Phil and Glide Surf Co. here. Top photo by Rob Cusick. 

Angela Oschmann is a talented surfer from San Diego, California. Donning a pair of swimfins and sometimes a hand plane, Angela seeks to find that perfect barrel and the answer to life’s many questions. Starring in the film “What The Sea Gives Me,” we spoke with Angela to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
My childhood was pretty mellow. I stayed busy learning to play Frisbee with my mother, and always choosing chicken nuggets for dinner (laughs)! Those sweet times were only possible with the open support of my parents.

How were you introduced to the ocean?
Some of my first memories are with my dad holding me, while we would hold our breath and dip under waves together. My father gave me such a sense of security. I’m so glad he showed me the sea in just that way.

Who/What inspired you to begin bodysurfing?
It all started when I moved back from living in Georgia. I was reconnecting with the sun and sand, when a friend suggested we get in the water to swim around. I watched my friend drop in on waves that were crashing on inches of water. Even though they weren’t very big, it was still intimidating. Patience and determination helped me to attain my skills today.

What is it about bodysurfing that you love?
I love the abundance of bodysurfing, from the quantity of tubes to the quality of good vibes. Bodysurfing offers and provides so much in each session. Things such as breath exercise, beautiful views of barrels, friendly bonds, and the list goes on.

Tell us about the movie you will be featured in
It’s a film by Pierce Michael Kavanagh called, “What The Sea Gives Me.” I will be giving the audience a perspective of what it’s like to be an enthusiastic, female bodysurfer. The film features risk takers and survival, exploration and conservation aspects, as well as other forms of inspiration the ocean provides. Overall, the wide range of content will be relatable to many different people and hopefully captivate many.

What are some of the challenges involved in being in this film?
For my part in the film, the biggest challenge is waiting for swell. It’s kind of a crucial element to bodysurfing (laughs). To keep it real, aside from the film, any day is great for getting in the water to bodysurf, because you can ride ‘em all. Oh and remember – safety first!

Who/what inspires you?
So much inspires me! Oh my goodness, where do I get started? My relationships, sautéing onions, and knowing all the tiny lines on my palm are there for me to feel, to name but a few.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The greatest thing I have learned is the simple fact that we can continue learning. We actually cannot stop learning if we consider our neurological function: Our brains constantly process information, even in our sleep. And that biological fact keeps me humble to continue searching my heart for compassion, listening deeper, and accepting that life is an ever changing moment.

What are you most proud of?
I am most proud that we are all, in our core, self-driven. Today, tomorrow, and on, we should all say something about ourselves that we are proud of.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Bodysurfing means “me time.” In that way, I have been able to replenish and invigorate my being of mind and body. It has changed my life from a hobby to a purpose. I am meant for great things and this tidal path is my gateway.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Love. Yes…it’s a tad trite, but oh so true – love is.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I feel the people who are shaping the path for all ocean sports are those who want to continue appreciating the presence and preciousness of the sea. For instance, Misfits Pictures, Matuse wetsuits, and Enjoy Handplanes help to shape a positive path by keeping our eco-systems in mind.

What is your favorite handplane? Your favorite surfspot?
There are so many handplanes I am excited to try out. Thus far, I have had the most fun with *Enjoy Handplanes. In addition I really admire their approach to repurposing the surf industry’s “trash.”

What’s your favorite meal?
Favorite meals are always custom designed (laughs) and well balanced, because that way I get exactly what my body needs for what is to come.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I always have my mood jams. Those are tunes that suit my fashion for the time being. Sometimes, jazzy-lounge music doesn’t always tickle my fancy, but perhaps in a half hour it will be just right.

What are you most grateful for?
I am most grateful for ALL the opportunities that come my way, as they have provided me with a chance to experience, learn and grow with the flow of life.

What’s next for Angela Oschmann?
A blog is next. It’s a great way for others to see and read what my bodysurfing moments bring, other inspiring aspects of life and my aim is to make it relatable to all!

To learn more about the film, “What The Sea Gives Me,” click here. Photography credits: (1) Kevin Roche, (2) Mike Delanzo, (3, 4) Andrew Quinn, (5) Val Reynolds.

Nathan Oldfield is the director of the upcoming film, Heart & The Sea. Like his previous films,Lines from A Poem and Seaworthy, Oldfield explores his joyful connection to the ocean and the friends he has encountered along the way. We spoke with Nathan to learn more. 

What was your concept was for The Heart & The Sea?
The driving idea or feeling that underpins The Heart & The Sea is pretty simple, really. The film explores the joy that lies at the very centre of a surfing life: family, friends and a shared connection and relationship with the sea.

What are you hoping to communicate?
After I made Seaworthy I actually felt that I had said all I wanted to say about surfing. But then some things stirred in my soul and I felt there was something else to share. This film is called The Heart & The Sea because it’s about what is important in life to me, intimacy with family and friends and intimacy with the sea. A surfing life is a beautifully significant, meaningful, lifelong journey for so many of us. I’m so grateful for the many deep, rich friendships that I have made through surfing and I think that many of us, if we reflect back on our surfing lives, might share similar sentiments. That gratitude and that joy are really the heartbeat of my new film.

How did you go about selecting the surfers for your film?
I deliberately wanted to choose a variety of subjects for The Heart & The Sea: surfers from different cultures; women as well as men; babies, children, young people, mums and dads, grandparents, elders. I think surfing deserves such a film, where the brushstrokes of the ways in which it is presented are perhaps a little broader than they have previously been. And I also made choices about the cast on a deeper level, too. One of the most significant gifts for me over the last decade as a surf filmmaker has been building precious friendships with surfers that I’ve met along the way. Most of the surfers in The Heart & The Sea are dear friends. It’s important to me to have surfers in my films who aren’t just good surfers, but people with beautiful souls. It’s my privilege and pleasure to be able to work with them.

It’s been three years since your last film (Seaworthy). How is this film different?
In some ways, this film grew out of the place where Seaworthy finished. Seaworthy was an emotional film to make in that the centerpiece of the movie was about losing our daughter, Willow. Some of that grief permeates the entirety of the film, at least for me, even though the second part of Seaworthy is really about new hope and a return to joy. The Heart & The Sea moves forward in that joy, that gratitude for life and living and friendships and family. I remember after we had the première of Seaworthy my good friend Tom Wegener and I were together having a deep talk about the film. He looked me right in the eye and he predicted, with his wonderfully infectious enthusiasm, “Nathan, your next film will be all about joy!” He was absolutely right.

Your films have a real emotional depth. Tell us where that comes from and how you are able to communicate that.
I’m not sure, really. I think I’m just a bit of a ponderer. I think and feel about things deeply. I always have. That quality emerges in my work, it’s almost like I can’t help it. Also, I think that for a lot of us, surfing is something we’re profoundly connected to. Surfing is massively meaningful on so many levels in our lives. So when I document surfing, it comes from that emotional and even spiritual place.

How did you go about selecting the music?
The music acquisition for this film was a real challenge: sourcing songs and getting permission to use them is incredibly time consuming. But, finally, the hard work has paid off. I am really proud of the soundtrack for The Heart & The Sea, the variety of music is rich and the quality of songcraft is absolutely amazing and I am so grateful for the artists who have generously shared their creative work.

What is your favorite scene or the one you are most proud of?
Oh, that’s a great question, and it’s too hard to answer. I’m too connected with the people in the film to have a favorite, to be honest. I love all of them, and I tried so hard to represent them all well. So I’ll have to let the audience decide on that one.

What did you learn from making this film? What were some of the challenges?
I’m a full-time school teacher. I don’t make surf films for a living. I’m also a husband and a dad. So the biggest challenge was balancing those things. There were a lot of late nights of editing involved! Also, when you undertake such a vast project on your own over a period of over three years, you learn a lot about things like perseverance, determination, creative desire, patience, commitment. I have learnt a lot about who I am as a person. Apart from those things, I feel like I keep improving in my abilities as a filmmaker, in terms of capturing and editing images and constructing stories.

We are really looking forward to seeing Heart & The Sea. What are your plans for the release of the film (dates and places)?
Thanks so much for your interest and encouragement. I am stoked and grateful. At the moment, I’m still working on artwork, subtitles, tying together loose ends. As a school teacher, it’s not easy for me to do a big tour and lots of film festival appearances, although the invitations have already been coming in. I am going to launch the film here in Australia this December, and it will be released on DVD and online that month. Beyond that, I’m not sure of our plans yet.

What’s next for Nathan Oldfield?
That question is easy to answer: way less time in front of a computer! After working really hard on this film, I’m looking forward to simpler things. I fantasize about playing my ukuleles, falling asleep early, reading books, doing some writing, surfing, spending time in the garden, making some photographs, practising more yoga, building some surfboards, and especially having a whole lot more family time. They are simple dreams, but I’m excited just thinking about them. Later, after a break, I’m looking forward to making some short films.

To view the trailer for The Heart & The Sea by Nathan Oldfield, click here.

Ben Fortun is a talented young surfer from the South Bay area of Los Angeles. Displaying both power and grace in his surfing, Ben is an outstanding example of someone who lives with alohaand is always striving to do his best. We spoke with Ben to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
My childhood was anything from average. My father was a semi-professional windsurfer and surfer and he opened a surf shop in Torrance, California. My earliest memories were from that shop – all the boards, customers, and team riders that hung around the store. I was lucky to have both of my grandparents very close to where I lived.

I spent many of my days at either of my grandparents houses because after my dad’s surf shop closed down, they worked full time at LAX for United Airlines. Spending time with my grandparents really groomed me to become a well-behaved kid – I never got into trouble and I had very good manners.

Because my parents worked for United Airlines, we would travel a lot. We would frequently visit Hawaii, New York, Boston, London, and San Francisco. I made friends overseas in Europe, I traveled to Spain, France, and Italy. My mom signed me up for the Cub Scouts when I was in 3rd grade, and I ended up becoming a Boy Scout and earned the Eagle Scout award, which is the highest rank in scouting.

I remember the morning of the September 11 attacks and remember being very confused. The toll that it took on this country was huge and many Americans felt the repercussions first hand. Unfortunately after those attacks, United Airlines had to file for bankruptcy and my mom was laid off of work. This meant that for a few years we struggled financially. Raising two kids on a minimal income was difficult for my parents. We all managed to pull through it and as a result, we came out of it stronger. That’s when I started focusing on surfing. It was cheap entertainment. While my peers had the latest video games or computers, my dad would take us to the beach and we would surf. He would get up at 3 a.m., work, get home at 1pm, and then would take us surfing. I was very fortunate.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My first “real” surfboard was a 10 foot longboard that my Dad shaped me. He didn’t think it was that great of a board, but I loved it. It had my Hawaiian name on it, “Makani” which was also the name of my Dad’s company. It was a tri-fin board, but with a traditional glass job and outline – all of which was a popular concept for that time. I still have the board, but I hardly ever ride it.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I honestly can’t remember the first time I stood on a board, but I can remember a wave that my dad pushed me into at Cove Park in Maui when I was about 8. I remember he kind of just let me go and the wave made it feel like I was rolling down a hill. I had a lot of speed – and I rode it straight into a rock! I was so crushed because it was my Dad’s board and I had just destroyed it. He really wasn’t mad. I think he understood that I had no idea what I was doing.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My grandma, my dad’s mother, was an incredible woman. She was blind but she would go to her music room and play organ and piano and it sounded amazing. She was very musical and she taught me notes and how to memorize songs. She really contributed to my interest in music. My grandfather was very inspirational to me as well. He grew up in the Philippines during WWII and would tell me stories of how he would smuggle American POWs a radio so that they could signal for rescue. After the Japanese military destroyed his village, he had to live in a swamp and survive by eating snails and lizards. To think that he went through all of that and still able to become a successful electrician in America is just incredible to me. I am in the process of writing a book that tells the story of his life. I also really admire my parents because of their perseverance and dedication to help myself and my brother to succeed.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have been to many places in the world: Micronesia, Europe, and Hawaii. But nothing can duplicate the experience I had in Cuba. It’s a Communist country, but that didn’t stop my brother, uncle, and I from travelling down there to explore the culture. We stayed in a “casa particulare” or a family’s house that has a government certificate to house tourists. We could afford the nice hotels, but we opted to live like the Cubans. At airport security, I was held in interrogation for about two hours. They thought my shoes (navy oxfords that have a big heel) contained something. I was surrounded by AK-47s, drug sniffing dogs, and an old man who kept yelling things at me. They stabbed my shoe to the point-of-no-return! When they found nothing, they quickly smiled and said “Bienvenidos a Cuba”. After that experience, I feared we had made a wrong decision. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The people of Cuba love Americans and have a rich and beautiful culture. We made many friends, and we brought a huge package of donations to give to the Cuban people. Baseballs, shampoo, first aid kits, toilet paper, batteries, car supplies, and toothpaste. It was the best experience I have ever had in my life.

Who/what inspires you?
First and foremost, Mike Purpus. Mike is a legendary surfer from the 60s and 70s, and he has direct influence on the way I surf. He has pushed me to do contests, surf more, try new things, and give back to the community. He’s also in his sixties and still surfs like he’s twenty! Vic Otten is a local shaper who has been extremely generous in passing on his knowledge of board design to me. He continues to shape me boards and is never annoyed by my bombardment of questions. John Leininger, the longtime manager of Becker Surfboards and previously Rick Surfboards. He is one of the nicest human beings you will ever encounter. I strive to have the same outlook on life as John has. And there is Ryan Shaver, one of the most knowledgeable persons I know. He rides old boards, drives old cars, and listens to old music. He is a main influence on my style in and out of the water. He and his wife Stephanie have always been extremely kind and generous to me and they have passed on the habit of having an optimistic outlook on things.

Outside of surfing, I really enjoy the outdoors. Backpacking, camping, and fishing have all been a huge part of my life, and I enjoy it all as much as I enjoy surfing. Jazz music really inspires emotionally. I played guitar in Jazz Band in high school and I am a huge fan of Charles Mingus.

But I think my main source of inspiration is Phil Comito. Mr. Comito was my AP US history teacher during my Junior year in high school. He convinced me to start a club at Redondo Union High School called “Ohana O Kekai” or translated, “Family of The Sea.” It is a club that teaches the history and safety of the ocean and surfing while giving back to the community. Mr. Comito is the definition of a great teacher. His patience, kindness, and knowledge was respected by every one of his students. I surf with him a lot and he has inspired me to make a career choice to become a teacher. I remember once in class he gave us an article that said “You have the choice of your own destiny, mood, and success”. That quote is burned into my memory. He made us all more likely to succeed – instead of being plagued by apathy and cynicism. Because of Mr Comito, there are many students who will greatly succeed.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The greatest thing I have ever learned is simple: “Treat everyone with kindness.” I feel that this is an elemental truth for society today. I strive to pass along kindness and courtesy to everyone I encounter. I feel everyone should do the same.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I really have no regrets. I am very content on my state of being right now. I guess if I could have done things differently, I would have done them better. I’m always striving to be better.

What are you most proud of?
I am very proud of some of the awards I have received in my life. I have obtained the highest rank in Scouting, the Eagle Scout Award, a Congressional Award for Leadership, and the Ian White Award. Ian White was a very close friend of mine in Scouting, and unfortunately he passed away from cancer. The award was given to the Scout who best embodies the spirit of Ian and I was the first recipient. I am very proud of that.

What meaning does surfing hold for you?
As corny as it sounds, surfing to me means family. I enjoy going to the beach and surfing with all my friends. Putting aside localism, competitiveness, and greed – and just having a good time. Riding different boards, and getting away from any problems I may have on land. It’s what I look forward to every morning.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
I love helping people – whether it’s organizing events to donate money to charities, to holding a door open for an elderly woman in a store – it’s a great feeling. It’s even greater when there are people out there who might want to do those things for me.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
In an age where there are a lot of huge surfing corporations and the commoditization of surfing, a surfer named Brian Bent runs a small operation called United 50. It’s his idea to sell American-made clothing that incorporates his art into the designs. I am heavily influenced by his idea. He has a thriving grassroots product, but in a corporate medium. It’s refreshing to see that. I also really enjoy seeing pros who give back to the world. Professionals who take their time and money and donate it to a good cause. They are influencing the average surfer to help the people around them. In the South Bay, Peter Venardos. He’s a great surfer who is spreading a positive vibe and inspiring people to ride various forms of equipment.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board right now is a 9’7″ Gato Heroi “Smooth Operator,” shaped by Robbie Kegel. It’s so different from anything I ride. It’s essentially a displacement hull longboard. It is 17″ in the nose, and 16″ in the tail so it’s really narrow, but it surprisingly noserides really well. It sits on top of the water instead of sinking, so it’s almost like riding a magic carpet.

My favorite surf spot is Sapphire Street Jetty in Redondo. Unfortunately, they recently dredged it, which killed the waves for a long time, but it was a great spot. It was a great left off the jetty, that went into a channel. Pass the channel there was a right, and everyone always had a good time there.

What’s your favorite meal?
Island Style Loco Moco. Rice, a hamburger patty, gravy, and a sunny side up egg. Probably shouldn’t eat it more than once a year!

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I wish I had an iPod! I listen to a lot of CDs though. Currently I bounce from Bob Dylan’s “Highway 61 Revisited” and “Nashville Skyline” to Miles Davis’ “Kind of Blue” and The Clash’s “London Calling”. But I don’t go a single day without listening to the “Pet Sounds” album by the Beach Boys. Brian Wilson, in my opinion, is the greatest musician in the last 100 years. I just have to listen to that album every day. It is so complex that you can hear something different every time.

What are you most grateful for?
My family, friends, and the liberty of being an American.

What’s next for Ben Fortun?
Passing on the aloha to everyone I meet.

Photography by Adam Reynolds of BHB Surf.

Rui Ribeiro is the creative director/owner of Magic Quiver in Ericeira, Portugal. Frustrated with the shortboard/thruster scene, Ribeiro sought out alternative shapes and the result was the creation of his surf shop. We spoke with him to learn more.

What is your background as a surfer?
I’m 37 now. I got started in bodyboarding at 14 and got into surfing in my early 20’s. I was never a great surfer, surfing mostly on weekends and after my kids born. I just never seemed to have enough time. About 6 years ago, I was looking for alternatives to my shortboard. Tired of fighting with small thin boards that needed a skilled and more fit surfer to work well, I started looking at the web for alternatives.

What was the tipping point?
When I was able to talk to Rich Pavel. He sent me to Rainbow Surfboards, and I ordered a couple of Speed Dialers. It was the summer of 2007 when I ordered my first batch of boards. Half a year later, I ordered 4 Hynson BKQ and things really started to happen. Not too many people were riding this type of board in Portugal because price and lack of knowledge was a problem. In 2009, we brought Josh Hall to Portugal and in 2010 we brought over Ryan Lovelace. The seed was planted and we started getting orders from far away countries like Finland, Sweden and Israel.

How did Magic Quiver come about?
While the original idea was just to get some good boards for me and my friends, I began to see a business opportunity. Opening a shop has been a dream of mine since I started surfing. But with Portugal being a very small market, I was doing this for the love I have for surfing and surfboards. After 13 years working at a TV Station, the opportunity knocked and I decided it was time to go after my dream and make Magic Quiver a real shop. I left a safe and well paid job and started working hard to make it happen.

What makes Magic Quiver unique?
Magic Quiver is about surfing, but without the commercial and big brands crap. It’s all about the surfboards, the culture, classic roots, and the feeling of riding waves. I don’t sell thrusters or big flashy logos. Only the best shapes from guys like Ryan Lovelace, Josh Hall, Jeff McCallum, Neal Purchase Jr, Wavegliders, Addiction, and soon Bing and Von Sol. No crappy glass jobs, just the best Europe can offer. We also sell clothes from smaller brands like Rhythm, The Critical Slide Society, Rake, Hippy Tree, TwoThirds and a small selection of Vans.

What are some of the challenges?
Everything in the shop follows the same concept, the same vision about surfing. This is not California or Australia. Portugal is dominated by the shortboard/big brands scene and everything outside the mainstream isn’t well accepted or understood. A big part of my day is spent explaining the shapes, trying to get the visitors to understand what the shop is about. Most of our customers still see all this shapes as retro stuff, good looking to hang on a wall or surf summer weak waves. They don’t see them as a genuine surfboard. This will take time, but it’s something that I have. We have to build a good foundation so the business has a future. I really have no intention to get rich fast.

Where is the shop located?
The shop is located in the center of Ericeira, the best place to surf in Portugal and the home of some of the best waves in Europe. It was designed to be cozy, yet modern – mixing modern furniture on the walls with vintage ones. It’s a place to visit and not just to buy. We will be hosting photography and art exhibitions, live music and movie screenings. We want to keep a certain dynamic around the space. It’s not just a shop, It’s a place to hang out, to talk about surfing and surfboards. That’s one of the reasons we have couch in there!

Find out more about Magic Quiver here. Photography provided by Magic Quiver.

By Eddie Solt

How to describe Mike Siordia in five or 6 words: charismatic, artistic, stylistic, insightful, smooth. Naw, that’s just too cliché. To quote one of my favorite movies of all time, The Stoned Age, “He’s just some dude.” Just some dude raised on an often forgotten stretch of beach in the southern most corner pocket of the Santa Monica Bay – the South Bay. A creature of his surroundings, oozing of a time period when Hermosa Beach housed five of the world’s biggest surfboard manufacturers, the Golden Age of the 60s, Siordia stands on ten toes to proclaim, “Yeah man, I’m from Hermosa Beach.”

I met up with Siordia for a morning surf near the Redondo Beach Pier, just south of where George Freeth caught some of the first waves in California in 1907. The surf was three to five feet with a lowering tide causing it to be a bit crunchy on the inside. “Now I know why all the old boys complain about spraining ankles,” Siordia said, “Man, I’m getting older now and riding into six inches of water sort of sucks.” On the lefts, Mike Purpus, who’s out almost everyday was screaming down the line, switching stances, and pulling roller coasters that a 63-year-old with two fake hips should not do.

After our surf, we cruised down to “Scotty’s on the Strand,” to get firing on the questions and some breakfast treats. This was a nice change of pace, as Siordia has taken a step back from fully embracing the “lifestyle.” Normally, eggs and beef hash, a few adult beverages from the Mermaid fit the cuisine.“Yeah, after my birthday and then St.Patty’s day the next day,” Siordia said, “I’m taking a little bit of a leave of absence.”

Before I could even pull the trigger on roasting and questioning the young Siordia, on the corner of my eye, I saw legendary South Bay shaper, Pat Ryan, aka “Gumby.” “Pat! Mr. Pat!” I yelled signaling him over to our table to possibly get some veteran insight and quotes. The reunion was at a perfect time, as Ryan was Siordia’s first board sponsor and ET Surf/Just Longboards had given him his first job as the token shoprat. “Ahhhh… you’re going to have to get back to me on that lad,” Ryan jokingly said, “I don’t trust him with that new slick back hairdo.” (Siordia has had long hair for most of his twenties.)

Born in Oakland, Siordia skipped Little League and Pop Warner football and crafted his competitive edge on the dirt track riding BMX. “This was in the heyday of “Rad,” he said, “as a kid, I just wanted to be Cru Jones.” Siordia moved to Hermosa Beach in the early nineties, where his father Big Mike, managed the Wayne Miyata Surf Factory on 6th and Valley, located in the old Greg Noll Surfboard Factory. “Hermosa Beach was so different then – before the influx of the east coast yupster,” Siordia said, “You could drive up on Pier Avenue, Shoreline Glassing was still pumping out beautiful boards, and John Joseph surfed and Mike Purpus didn’t.”

Fittingly, Hermosa Beach Pier is where Siordia first learned to surf. “All the old boys swear that the pier and the surrounding Avenues were these amazing spots and the proof is in a lot of Leroy Grannis and Steve Wilken’s shots, he said, “but then again a ten footer makes anything fun and it goes back to the theory that who really remembers all the bad surf days?”

His surfing started standing out in middle school, was affectionately was nicknamed “short stack,” by the local surf scene and punk rockers. But by the time Siordia was in high school at Mira Costa, the same breeding ground for Dewey Weber, Mike Purpus, Sparky Hudson, Dru Harrison, etc., he was a star on the surf team, as well as clothed completely in red being a member of the Dewey Weber Surf Team.“Yeah, I didn’t really part ways too well with Team Weber,” Siordia said,“When I first was on the team, I was squeaky clean, with short hair, who hadn’t really ever hit the nightlife. In the closing chapters of that team tenure, I really took it up a notch.”

At the last Weber Classic, Siordia made the finals as he did every year, even with a staph infection on the inside of his knee this size of a tennis ball. Between the closing horn being set-off and the award ceremony, Siordia hit “Turks” pretty hard and showed up a little “under the weather.” “Every year I’d surf that thing, even when people on the beach said I won,” Siordia said. “I’d end up 2nd or 3rd to a Doheny local.” While on stage receiving another 3rd place trophy and wearing a “Crème” T-shirt, Robin Kegel’s defunct brand, (Robin had an incident earlier in the day for setting up a “Crème” Demo down the beach with “hired help” from the local workers outside the Donut Shop in Capo Beach. Rangers were called in as he and his “amigos” were chased down the beach,” Siordia took the Hatchet Fin Trophy, and made a third appendage before tossing it into the sand.

After his days with Weber, Siordia would go on to ride for Bing Surfboards with Matt Calvani, Con Surfboards with Bruce Grant, another stint with Pat Ryan, Wegener Surfboards, Dan Cobly, and Becker Surf. For the last year or so, he’s been exclusively riding Tyler Hatzikian’s boards as a test pilot. “In the whole mix of things, I’ve always felt Tyler’s boards are superior and it’s something I’ve always dreamed of being a part of,” Siordia said. Siordia rounds off a stellar team of the newly found “Bat Division” with local teenage stand out, Josh Gilberts.

“It’s nice working with a local South Bay surfer,” Tyler of Tyler Surfboards said, “It’s a close relationship that’s works to advance traditional designs.”

The model of which he’s mostly associated it with, “The Double Stepdeck,” fits Siordia the best. “He has a very aggressive style of traditional surfing that hints at his contest upbringing,” Adam Davenport of Davenport Surfboards said, “Siordia is very versatile, but what sets him apart is his ability of pumping on the nose and utilizing the flex of the step of his double stepdeck to make the sections.”

Siordia’s goal as a surfer is to shed his contest surfing past. “This has been the hardest thing to overcome,” he said, “Now I just want to go out and do what feels all right and what the wave calls for… not just setting up for another noseride on the flats with a chick-kick ballerina pose for points.”

Recently, Siordia fell back into his contest ways and did a little damage in the local South Bay surf circuit. “Siordia sort of set up a little bit of a buzz in the local community,” said Andrew Sarnecki of Hippy Tree clothing, located in Torrance Beach, who provides Siordia with the latest in outdoor and aquatic wear. Sarnecki continued, “After five years of a contest hiatus he won the longboard division to earn the title of King of the South Bay while riding a Tyler point model and his competition on 2+1’s.”

He identifies his, “Uncle” Wayne Miyata as his favorite all time surfer (one of Siordia’s prize position is a prepubescent picture of him between Wayne and Rabbit Kekai). Miyata, an unsung influential surfer, had a surf style that Siordia emulated in the shore pound rights off the Hermosa Pier as a kid. And the young Siordia was with Miyata all the way to the end. “When Uncle Wayne was laying there in bed during his last days, he said to me, ‘Grab the cup, Mikey-boy,” Siordia said, “I went and grabbed the cup for Uncle Wayne, he sipped it and I asked him what it was…liquid Morphine.”

93.5 K-Day, a LA based old school hop-hop station is his go to for cruising around the South Bay especially in his 1962 Cadillac, fins and boat-tail fins protruding out into the sky. “It blazes out of my dilapidated speaker all day, every day,” Siordia said, “Just cruising in the American dream of 1962.”

You’ll now find Siordia living in a modest one bedroom apartment, with his beautiful girlfriend of eight years, Stephanie, caddy in the garage, situated just walking distance to the Tyler Factory. “I had enough of the riff-raff, the changing of times with some east coasters doing their ‘beach thing’ tearing down another historical building, and with the Mermaid closing – I had enough of Hermosa after being a resident for twenty years. But I still love her.. shoot she’s tatted on my forearm.” he said, “I traded Pier Avenue for the quiet town of El Segundo, locally deemed, Mayberry by the Sea.”

Principal photography by Kiyo Okada/Classic Waves USA.

Mason Dyer is a talented surfer/shaper based in San Diego and is the brand manager of Captain Fin. Originally from Delaware, Mason’s interest in WWII memorabilia and hot rods gives his work a unique aesthetic. We spoke with Mason to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up on the East Coast in Bethany Beach Delaware. I was super blessed to have the most amazing family. My Pops surfed and passed it on to me and my brothers. I remember spending summer weekends at the beach with my family all day. Up until the time I was 13 all I cared about was bodyboarding. I would occasionally go surf with my dad but all I cared about was doing El Rollos and bitchin’ drop knee hacks. Looking back I probably should have stuck with it.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My first surfboard if you even want to call it that was a 6’ neon green BZ foam board that my brothers and I got for Christmas when I was 9 or 10. I still have it. I rode a serious amount of whitewash on that puppy.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I don’t really remember my first wave specifically, but I do remember I learned to surf as a goofy footer then one day decided to switch.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My Pop for sure. I always looked up to him. We did everything together when I was a grom. I would always go to work with him, we would go hunting together, surf together, you name it. We were best buds.

Who/What inspired you to begin shaping?
Honestly one day I woke up and decided I was going to give it a shot. I got a blank and glassing goodies at Bashams and went home and got to work. It was twisted, asymmetrical (not on purpose), the hotcoat didn’t cure for a few days and the glass on hatchet fin was really crooked. I remember finish sanding it right before the sun went down and rushing to the beach to surf it. When I put it in the water and it floated I knew I was addicted.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have really only traveled to places for surf trips with the exception of one: London. That trip really stands out because I really got to get a feel for the city, not just the waves like on most surf trips. I got to do all the tourist stuff which was cool.

Who/what inspires you?
I am a big into WWII militaria and am a post-WWII culture junkie. Anything and everything ranging from military uniforms, to hot rod building, to architecture, to fashion, to music – I love it all. I also never really look at other board builders stuff because I really like trying to just do my own thing and not be influenced by what other guys are doing. I spend most of my time reading books and websites about post war culture. That really influences me.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
My parents taught me a lot about the importance of hard work, honesty, and family but the most important is, for sure, teaching me about the gospel of Jesus Christ.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Other than the Little Caesars pizza I had the other night, no.

What are you most proud of?
I really pride myself on being a hard worker. I really believe that hard work pays off.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has really helped shape my life. If it wasn’t for surfing I would be sitting behind a desk staring at spreadsheets all day. Because of surfing I am blessed enough to have a job where I get to be creative and work with my hands every day.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Hanging out with my wife its number one for sure. I am so lucky to have such a rad wife; she is 100 times cooler than I am. Days where we get to surf and hang out at the beach all day together makes this ol’ boy happy. Building and driving my 1927 Model T hot rod also makes me super happy. I work on it a lot more than I drive it, thank God for AAA.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
From an industry standpoint Mitch Abshere for sure. Everyone has been fed the same recycled crap from the big brands and people are finally starting to figure out that there is more to surfing that contest and huge logos on everything. Mitch is just trying to help people remember why they started surfing in the first place – because it is fun. Guys like Dane Reynolds are really helping to reinforce that. I think a lot is going to change in the next few years, it’s really exciting.

As for shaping it’s a really exciting time for that as well. We are at a point where anything goes and it is really pushing guys to be creative. It can also be a bad thing however because most guys use it as a crutch for putting out boards that simply don’t work.

I really look up to guys like Jeff McCallum who makes in my opinion the best short alternative boards and unlike most small boards out there, his boards actually work. Chris Christenson is another guy I really respect a lot. Chris can jump in his shaping room and in one day make a thruster for Jordy Smith to ride on tour, a noserider for Mitch Abshere, a period correct twin fin San Diego style fish, and a Mavericks gun for Greg Long. That’s skill. Lastly Zeke (Tyler Hatzikian) is another guy I really respect. His craft is so dialed its mind blowing. He shapes better than the best shapers, glasses better than the best glassers and surfs better than some of the best surfers. I try to incorporate aspects of all the above into my shaping; Jeffs’ creativity and board function, Chris’ well roundedness, and Tyler’s roots, respect for the past and craftsmanship.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board is a model I make called the Jetson. It is a Malibu chip inspired outline, has slight blended concave through the nose into slight belly in the middle to a good amount of V through the tail. I really wanted to design a board that could do it all. Noseride, trim really well and turn. Noseriders are great but they are made to noseride and that’s about it. They are slow and turn like an 18 wheeler. The Jetson is a really well rounded log. I love it. I surf Oceanside and Swamis most of the time but I would say the cliffs are my home. I love the cliffs.

What’s your favorite meal?
A scrapple, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich. Scrapple is this meat that is made from cornmeal, spices and everything that is left over after they finish butchering a pig. Its completely nasty but tastes so good. I grew up eating that crap and it is so delicious. You can only get it at home.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Well I am a country music guy so I listen to a lot of old country like Waylon, Hank, JR, and Johnny Cash. I also listen to a lot of Boston Radio on Pandora. You get a solid mix of Boston, Journey, The Scorpions, Bön Jovi, and Van Halen. Its good stuff for sure. When I shape I always listen to either Metal or Brittany Spears.

What are you most grateful for?
I am grateful for my family and friends. I have been so blessed in all aspects of my life.

What’s next for Mason Dyer?
Well a lot. I am continuing to expand and grow my shaping business. I am really excited with how well everything is going. I just started a new label in November called Dyer Brand. It is the label that all my boards and clothing will be under. I am just selling the clothing in Japan and a few select stores in the USA, but it is really taking off. The focus of the brand is making everything in the USA. I obviously make all the boards here but for the clothing everything from the fabric to the clothes themselves are made on our country. I think it is really important that we bring as much manufacturing back as possible, it’s the only really chance we have to make it as a nation. All of the clothes are just pieces that I myself would want to wear. I have always wanted to have my own clothing line so when the opportunity arose I had to jump on it. I update my website everyday so you can keep informed on what we have going on at www.masondyer.com

By Mark Nielsen

Kelia Moniz is a young and talented Hawaiian surfer known for her graceful longboarding skills. Inspired by people who live their life with passion and hard work, Kelia’s surfing ability is clear evidence that she lives by these principles. We caught up with Kelia to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
Growing up I was the second of five and the only girl in the family. There was never a dull moment in our household. My brothers and I all enjoyed the ocean equally so my patents would take us surfing almost every day. My mom homeschooled all of us from day one. As we grew up and started surfing more, the homeschool lifestyle worked great. When the waves were good, we got to do our work the night before so we could surf early the next morning. My mom and dad supported us in everything we did and continue to do so. I had the most amazing upbringing.

When did you get your first surfboard?
When I was about 10 my parents got me my first board. It was a 7’2″, all red, fun board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I don’t really remember the feeling of the first time because I was too young. We grew up around the ocean so surfing was like second nature.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young girl?
Definitely looked up to my mom. She was/is the most influential person in my life, her and my dad!

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
I loved Tahiti, just picture perfect beauty! Everything there seemed fake it was so perfect.

How important is style?
Style is extremely important. I feel like style is what makes people want to watch you perform.

Who/what inspires you?
People who have passion and really work hard to accomplish their goals inspire me to do the same in my life.

Tell us about your relationship with Roxy.
I’ve been with Roxy for 5 years now. Over the last 3 years I’ve been working a lot with them and growing a really strong friendship with them. We have a really solid crew right now and I absolutely love working with them. Most times our work is so enjoyable it’s hard to even label it as work.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To earn respect you must show respect.

What are you most proud of?
I’m very proud of my family. My parents have started a surf a school in Waikiki that has been growing like rapid fire called Faith Surf School. And my brothers have been competing in amateur and Jr. surf events around the world and have been doing really well. So I’m a very proud daughter and sister!

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Making other people happy makes me REALLY happy. I think that’s what brings the most happiness, just making others smile.

What is currently your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Right now I have a little 5’1″ Eric Arakawa bandit. It is one of the most fun boards I’ve ever had. And my favorite surf spot is always Kewalo basin on the south shore of Oahu.

What’s your favorite meal?
Sushi for sure.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Call Me Maybe — Carly Rae Jespen.

What are you most grateful for?
I’m extremely grateful for the lifestyle God has blessed me with and all the amazing friends and family who surround me.

What’s next for Kelia Moniz?
I’ll be moving to LA this summer! Yay very excited!

Find out more about Kelia here and here. Photography provided by Jim Russi, Christa Renee, Roxy Photos

Australian Katherine Hall is a talented designer/surfer. Her whimsical and flowing illustrations began as an outlet from her usual duties as a brand strategist. With a background in graphic design, surfing became the catalyst to create her blog and wonderful art. We chatted with Katherine to learn more.

How did you get interested in creating surf illustrations?
My artistic background is in graphic design — I’m an art director by trade, and have a consultancy called Design & Opinion. The sort of work I do professionally doesn’t generally allow a great deal of illustration (I create editorial products and consult on strategy), but illustration has always been my first love, and is what lead me to become a designer in the first place. So I’ve always maintained an active interest in drawing by hand.

Tell us how you got into surfing
I first picked up a board around 7 years ago, when I married a keen surfer. It quickly became apparent that I would need to either develop an interest in surfing, or get used to sitting on the beach by myself. So I chose the former and as luck would have it, was hooked! Now the only challenge is how to get out as often as we’d like while looking after our 1-year-old son Sam.

How does surfing inspire you?
The surf-art scene has always been a great source of inspiration to me, but after becoming a surfer myself, held a lot more meaning. So naturally my illustration began tending towards surfing themes. I’m not very good at keeping my drawings organised (they tend to adorn random pieces of scrap paper which often end up in the bin accidentally) so I essentially started the Drawn Lines blog as a way to discipline myself to properly archive my sketches. I can’t say it’s entirely worked! But at least some of the drawings have been preserved :)

What has been the result of having your blog?
Since starting the blog I’ve been approached to design various bits and pieces for the surfing community, like logos and tees, work for surf-related exhibitions etc. I’m also currently working on a collaboration with a US cycling apparel company, who approached me specifically because of the surfing themes in my work. That has all really just been a bonus though, as I started the blog primarily for myself — I never expected anyone to actually look at it!

Learn more about Katherine Hall at her blog here.

Josh Oldenburg is a talented San Diego surfer/shaper. His skill and talent lies in producing exceptional surfboards of uncompromising quality from traditional longboards to progressive shortboards. We spoke with Josh to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
My childhood was pretty eclectic. Having a dad that was a big outdoorsman and athlete allowed me to experience a whole slew of activities that most kids don’t encounter. Hunting and fishing played a big role in my childhood as well as playing all the conventional sports. I spent a majority of my adolescence in San Diego with exception to a three-year span of time in which my family moved to the central valley to farm. At that time it was a huge change of pace for my family and more specifically for my dad. He went from experiencing the stress of owning and operating a scaffold company to waiting for crops to grow. Obviously both careers carried the same stress of providing for yourself and your family, however it taught me from a young age that controlling the way you make your living could provide you with more benefits than just financial success.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I didn’t receive my first surfboard until I was in junior high. It was a 7’2 round nose egg with a thruster fin set up. It also came with what I thought at the time where all the bells and whistles. I remember it had red airbrushed rails with a Hawaiian fabric nose inlay that was all pinlined. At the time I thought it was a great idea, but in retrospect I would hate to have been the guy to make that board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I can’t say that I really recall the first time I stood up on a surfboard. I guess it wasn’t that great seeing as how it wasn’t memorable. I do remember the first time I was able to put a board on rail and go down the line as one of the most rewarding feelings of success.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
I don’t really remember having admiration for anyone person in particular. However, I do remember being aware of the fact that I didn’t want to be lazy.

Who/What inspired you to begin shaping?
I didn’t have anyone to inspire my shaping. For me it grew from my own curiosity in my equipment, and my general interest in craftsmanship. From that point on, I started to get into the how and why my boards worked the way they did. After building a few boards in my garage I got my first industry job at Pacific Glassing working for King Mac Foam gluing up blanks. It was undoubtedly the least appealing and most underappreciated job one person could find in surfboard manufacturing. But it put me in an environment where surfboards of every shape while being produced on a production level. For me a great deal of what I want to achieve is in relation to a level of production (glassing and shaping). For instance it’s a lot easier to make one board a week look immaculate and claim that you know how to do it all, but to do ten or fifteen boards at a time and nail everyone, proves your true skill set. That’s what drives me today.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Yuma, AZ. It’s like one giant retirement center. It’s the craziest thing I have ever seen. Old people are driving around everywhere. It’s really quite hazardous.

Who/what inspires you?
From a surfboard building perspective, I, like most people am inspired by perfection. When I look at a board and can’t find a flaw in it I am inspired by the laminators, the sander/polisher and the wet work guys to want to be better, join, or surpass the level that they are on.

From a shaping perspective, every type of surf craft inspires me. It could be an old template that I unbarred, a restoration that someone is working on or of late my new affliction/appreciations is with modern short boards.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Top three:
Don’t be lazy. Idle hands render no results.

One of the hardest things to do is be original.

“Don’t fake the funk” words from Jeff Mccallum

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I am very happy with where my life/career are today. Largely my mistakes and experiences are what have taken me to this point. I guess my only regret would be making the same mistake twice.

What are you most proud of?
I am most proud of my skills, the boards they produce and the traditional path I took to acquire them. Which is not to say that I think they are best or that I have taken them as far as they will go. Just that I am very pleased with how they have progressed and the potential I believe they hold.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
I see surfing as a form of entertainment or escape. It allows me to turn off all distractions and focus on the simplistic joy of riding a wave. More than the act of surfing the sport has provided me an avenue to build a career around something that I love.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
It’s hard to narrow it down to one thing or say that one thing makes me happier than another. I can however narrow it down to a top 10 things that make me happy:
Good Friends
Surfing
Good results with new designs.
Progressing my skills.
Cigars
Bacon
Beer
Scotch
Golf
Good Weather

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I think there is small group of people out there who are creating specific/unique designs and brand traits/looks that are unlike anyone before. The one person who I think is at the top of that list is Jeff “Ffej” Mccallum. The brand look he has created is unlike anyone else’s and many times it has served as what I’ll call “inspiration” for others. His alternative board designs are original and unique. Jeff has also been very influential in my career both as a quasi-mentor, friend and employer. Rusty, Hoy Runnel, and Rick Hamon are three shapers that I think have pushed the shortboard design envelope. Together they have created an amazing board line that is second to none in the short board world.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite board is the one that is going to give me the best result for the current conditions. For me that board varies everyday. One day it could be a 9’9 nose rider, to an evolution style egg or even a classic keel fin. My favorite spot is probably the best spot in all of San Diego, Unspeakables.

What’s your favorite meal?
Any type of red meat preferably on the rare side.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I am all over the place. The last three albums I purchased were from Skrillex, Dr. Dre, and Van Halen. The rest of my iPod reflects the same kind of musical continuity or lack there of.

What are you most grateful for?
I am most grateful the opportunities I have had, and to work with and around good people. Without those opportunities my skills would have never progressed. From Jeff and the rest of our crew to my shortboard mentor Roy Sanchez, to all of the shops/employees that have showed their support along the way, and Garrett Highhouse, who has been taking photos, doing web and graphic design from the very beginning.

What’s next for Josh Oldenburg?
A whole bunch of stuff, as of late I have been working with a group of talented surfers: Kahana Kalama, Nate Chesnut and Anna Ehrgott to name a few. They are helping me test designs and push them farther. Anna is going to be a part of the film Gastrologging that may be out as soon as this year. While Kahana is readying his shop, Aloha Sunday for the spring/summer months. This month I will also be a part of Slide Magazine’s feature article “The Evolution of Revolution” written by Shawn Tracht. The article showcases some experimental board design that could lead to the next big jump in the evolution of surfboards. I am also going to be a part of SLVDR’s Craftsman Guild which may include a couple of limited collaborative boards. As always, I am looking forward to sharing my boards and designs with as many people as possible.

To learn more about Josh Oldenburg, click here. Principal photography by Garrett Highhouse. Noseriding photo by Bryce Johnson

By Mark Nielsen

Thomas Bexon is a talented surfer/shaper out of Australia that shapes under his own Thomas Surfboards label. You may have seen the boards he’s shaped for Deus at the Temple of Enthusiasm in Bali. Thomas’ boards and surfing exude great style. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was life like growing up?
Pretty good. It started off in the bush for a few years on a semi self-sufficient property before moving to the sunshine coast at about 10. Surfing and boards etc. happened not too long after that.

What was your first board?
The first board I had was a boogie board, first surfboard was a 7-foot Pipe Dream shortboard. Then not long after that, a 9-foot Kent Manning longboard.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
To be honest, I can’t really remember. It must have been pretty enjoyable ‘cause I certainly got hooked.

Tell us how you got started shaping.
I guess the same as a lot of shapers, a desire to build something that at the time wasn’t available, and I’ve always enjoyed building stuff. It was a cheaper way as a 15 year-old to experiment with different types of surfboards and designs.

Tell us about the Deus and TCSS crews and how they influence your shaping.
I wouldn’t say they influence my shaping, I mean the shaping influence come from further afield and more interacted in surfboard history. TCSS are a great bunch of folks and have helped me out heaps and given me a lot of support and exposure, they make some great clothing which I get to keep covered by and we do a few trips to get stuff out there–really great folks to work with. In Bali, I teamed up with Deus and shaped a few boards at their Temple of Enthusiasm to go in the shop there and then made a few more on another trip to go to their LA shop.

Do you shape your boards by hand or do you use a machine?
A bit of both. I’d love to have the time to shape every board from a blank but it’s just not viable business. I’d say it’s about half and half, which is a good balance. The machine cuts I use are more profile than full shapes, so it still leaves a certain amount of shaping and tuning rather than dusting of a kkl or aku cut. I know there’s a lot of hate for machines in surfboard building (particularly the types of boards we make) but really, if you can walk up to a blank that’s had all the mindless planer passes done already and attack it with the same amount of energy and feel as you would a full shape then your only going to end up with a really good board.

Do you glass your boards yourself?
Thomas Surfboards is a two man show. I work with Jake Bowery who is one of the best glassers I have ever seen, and together we come up with a lot of great ideas and we do a certain amount of glass jobs that are two person laminations, just to get the look in some of the abstract work we do. Between the two of us, we make about 3–5 boards a week so it’s definitely no mass production and this gives us the time to make sure we get every one right and to a standard we are happy with.

Who or what inspires you?
Everything and anything, from a good afternoon surf to an architecture magazine, to a beer with mates. Inspiration is everywhere if your eyes are open.

What is your favorite board? Favorite surf spot?
No one board in particular, I do spend more time on logs than anything else but some of that is due to the waves at home, which also doubles as the favorite surf spot. I’m pretty lucky to live within 5 min of some of the best point waves going.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Work hard, aim high. It will pay off.

What are you most proud of?
Not sure yet, maybe ask me when I’m 50. Ha.

What’s your favorite meal?
Depends on the day of the week. Japanese, Mexican, Indian, a good fry up brekkie on the weekend.

What kind of music do you listen to?
Everything and anything, just no Aussie hip hop.

What’s next for Thomas Bexon?
This year’s a busy one, we are going to do some work in Japan, Indo, and Europe at different times this year which is pretty exciting. After that who knows? Probably be all washed up and last year’s news.

More information about Thomas Bexon and his shapes can be found here. Photography by Nicole Gozzer, James Heal, Tom Hawkins, and Teru Yamamotu

Hannah Brown-Damron, better known as HannahB., is a maker of surf-inspired skateboards for surfers out of her workshop in Oceanside, CA. Seen surfing regularly in the lineup at San Onofre, Hannah has built a reputation for building beautiful hand layered maple ply boards decorated with her own custom artwork.

Tell us where you are from…
I was born and raised in Tennessee. Almost nine years ago, my then boyfriend (Jeff) and I packed up his tiny Honda Civic and we meandered our way from Tennessee and ended in Oceanside, CA. We’ve been living here ever since. Oceanside is home for us, it’s the perfect little surf ghetto and a great place to be artist.

Where did you come up with the concept of HannahB. skateboards?
Well, almost two years ago, Jeff (now my husband) mentioned that he’d like to have a longboard to make his slow walk to a surf spot quicker and more fun. got it in my head that I should BUILDhim a longboard — not just go buy one like a normal human — but build it. I had never really built anything in my life… I had shaped a couple of surfboards before, but despite my love of surfing, shaping surfboards didn’t really resonate with me. But again, me being me, naively confident about making things (a trait I most certainly get from my Dad), I launched into an internet search on how to build a longboard. And so it began… in our garage.

First I made one for Jeff, then one for me… and so it went for about a year and half. Building custom boards for people, when I had the time, after work, and on the weekends. There is something about working with wood that I’m really drawn to… how I’m able to bend the wood, the way I can carve the rails, how I can take it from a rough state to something so smooth. So finally, in July 2012, I made the decision to quit my day job and pursue skateboard building full time.

What is unique about your boards?
I think of my boards in the same way I think of a surfer getting a custom shaped surfboard from their neighborhood shaper. They are custom, made for the rider, instead of imported, mass produced pop-outs. When I make a board for someone, it is 100% hand built, every time, out of the best materials out there. Even the artwork is hand drawn by me on every deck. Skaters love their boards and should be able to get exactly what they want. My boards are unique in the sense that I can have conversations about riding style, performance expectations, and artwork/color and that is what I give all of my riders. Even if the board is not one of my customs, but one of my boards you can buy online, they are all built the same way… one at a time, with complete attention to detail. Hopefully, my love for building comes across in each one.

Is there a connection between surfing and skating your boards?
Absolutely! There is a strong connection between hannahB. Boards and surfing. Mostly because I’m a huge surf nerd! Surfing is in every part of my life and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Because of that love, I feel like my skateboards are strongly influenced by all things surf. I often draw parallels between classic surfboard shapes and the templates I create for my skateboards. Sometimes its purely aesthetic, for example, a classic swallowtail – I knew that had to be represented on some of my boards. Other times the rider might want their skateboard/longboard to feel like carving a wave on a fish, or cruising on an old school log… which I can count on my surf nerdiness to help me build just the board for them.

What has been the response to HannahB? Where can we find your boards?
The response has been really great! At first just the joy of building boards for friends and family was so very satisfying. But now, the people that I’ve been able to reach through my blog alone amazes me everyday. I have had so many people, people I’ve never even met, send me notes and sweet emails just telling me how much they admire the work that I’m doing… I mean, that is just crazy to me – and so humbling.

As for getting a hannahB. board, there are a couple easy ways. First, my online Etsy shop. When I’m not building customs, I build boards for my shop that are ready buy. But if a custom board is what you are looking for, then simply email me or contact me on Facebook, we’ll chat, answer some questions, then I’ll build you your dream board, it’s that simple :)

What’s next for HannahB?
Build, blog, surf, repeat. I’m also hoping to get some boards into local surf/art/skate shops this year. Continue building custom boards. I’d like to push my board shapes a little further this year, adding more shapes to the lineup and continue to evolve my artwork. Hopefully you’ll see me in your neighborhood shops soon!

Principal photography by Jeff Damron/Photograsurfer. Portrait by Glenn Sakamoto.

A respected observer of the surfing community, Cardiff’s own Devon Howard is a surfer/writer who has written for publications such as Longboard, Surfers Journal, and Surfer magazines. As a surfer with a “ride everything” philosophy, he has appeared in numerous films as Single Fin Yellow, Sprout, One California Day, and The Present. We spoke with Devon to learn more.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Like most, I started on my belly—sponging it from age 3 until 7. Then, my folks got me a 6’6” Mason & Smith single-fin soft top. My mom knew Floyd Smith and took us to his house down the street from us in University City. A few years later I got my first “real board,” a 5’10” Tony Staples tri-fin from Mitch’s Surf Shop in La Jolla. Still have it.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Fear and thrill—all in one. I loved sponging but my mom insisted I get on my feet. She didn’t want to be a little league parent, so my younger brother, Bret and I had little choice but to surf. Thank God. We grew up surfing in La Jolla. I moved to Encinitas area in my mid-20s.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a grommet?
My folks, of course. But surfing-wise? So many. Surfer magazine was always in our home. So it was Tom Curren, Carroll, Potter, etc. I loved the ’80s. Pre-teen to early-teen years, the Tudor family was pretty influential. Josh and Joel Tudor lived a few blocks away and their house was the cool place to hang out and talk surf, fix boards, and hear new music. That experience contributed a lot to how I learned about longboarding, style, history, culture.

When did you start riding mostly longboards?
It pretty much took over at age 14. Seemed like such a punk rock move at that time because kids simply didn’t ride them. My mom (Karen Adams) rode for Hobie on the East Coast before moving to San Diego in 1970 with my dad, Harry. She kept her 9’6” Yater and I still ride it from time to time. In fact, it was among the very first 60s logs Joel Tudor ever rode. Ever since that time, I have always leaned more toward traditional lines and equipment.

Your thoughts on longboard surfing today?
Depends what you mean. Overall, high performance longboarding in the 90s took it in the wrong direction, not giving a super rad, traditional part of our history and culture a chance to be embraced as something cool. Instead, high performance longboarding turned out to look and feel like bad shortboarding. I did the ASP longboard tour events in 90s and early 00s and in my opinion, it never got off the ground with any significance because the majority of guys thought hitting the lip and doing wheelie airs was the best form of expression on big boards like that. Joel Tudor, Kevin Connelly, Erik Sommer, Cody Simpkins, and guys like me knew noserding and clean style are what gave it an identity and coolness. But we were a small voice in the wilds. Thankfully the real essence of longboarding still lives on through a more grassroots approach. Dudes like Alex Knost, Tyler Warren, Jared Mell, etc. are on the forefront of riding traditional equipment, while vets like Tudor, Tyler Hatzikian, Dane Peterson, etc still hold it down, preserving a piece of our cultural traditions that should not be lost or forgotten. So, I’d say it’s in a better place now.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
It’s super cliché, but Indonesia. Hands down. Boat trips are kind of pretentious and a bit bubble boy-ish in nature. But if talking surf quality only, it’s the best. I dragged longboards with me there a few times and surfed everything from flawless waist high empty points to triple overhead Sunset beachesque waves like Bawa. Culture-wise, my favorite is the Basque region in South France. I could live there.

Who/what inspires you?
My dad was a carpenter so I tend to be inspired by people that take pride in what they do. People with integrity inspire the heck out of me. Not a fan of half-assedness, or lazy people. I dig creativity, too. A lot my friends over the years are artists, writers, filmmakers and photographers. Surf-wise? It’s all about style. That’s everything to me. Frye, Dora, Hynson, Young, Farrelly, Riddle, Curren, Ortner. Guys like that—through old bootleg film clips and magazines—shaped how I surf today.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Relationships are like plants. If you don’t water them, they wilt.

What meaning does surfing hold for you, and how has it changed your life?
Answering this will unavoidably sound cheesey. But here goes: It hasn’t changed my life. It is my life, and has been since I can remember. Since third grade, when I told my teacher I wanted to be a pro surfer, there was no doubt in my mind I’d be involved personally and professionally with surfing for my entire life. Who wouldn’t be stoked when their avocation becomes their vocation? It has provided me a great life. I have filled two passports because of it, all the while working in retail, media, and now marketing – roles built around my passion for riding waves. I am thankful for the joy it gives me and for all the friends I made through it over the years.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
From a pure performance standpoint, I am really pumped on John John Florence. He is primed to be our next Slater. Dane Reynolds is exciting because he is the next Slater talent-wise, but he has a fun personality that keeps me interested in what he’s going to do next. Shaping-wise, I love what Danny Hess is doing with materials. Ryan Burch is refreshing: a real thinker and ripper—as is Daniel Thomson. For traditional longboarding, I am inspired by Tyler Hatzikian. He’s made me a few logs recently that are mind blowers, especially the step nose and tail model.

If you could only take one board around the world, which would it be?
I have a 7’2” egg design that Donald Takayama calls the Howard Special Mini. It’s a low rocker egg with a mid-volumed template. Not speedy, not bulbous like a mini-tanker. It has pinched rails and vee. Can be two-plus-one widowmaker, single or tri, making it super versatile. The perfect board.

Your favorite surf spot?
For a decade I lived and died by the tides and swells at Windansea. It was super important to me to earn respect in that lineup. A fan of reef culture, I was drawn to the wave because of its lore, and that only kooks wore a leash. I learned a lot through that process of becoming a local, especially being on the most hated equipment ever during that time. As a result of my time at Windansea, I since gravitated toward big peaky rights. So my other favorite waves fall in line with that: Swamis, Lowers, Cardiff Reef, Sunset Beach, Pupukea and Haleiwa. My boards are long railed and those spots allow you to use it all to set up big bottom turns, sweeping cutbacks and threading the bowl sections.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
So many things, but if I hit shuffle you might hear things like: Mulatu Astatke (Ethiopian Jazz circa late 60s); Syl Johnson (70s soul); Ghosface Killah; The Seeds; The Kinks; A Tribe Called Quest; Slum Village; The Cramps; Grant Green; Joy Division; El Michel’s Affair; The Velvet Underground; Stooges; Wu Tang, GZA & RZA; The JB’s; The Roots; Guru; Tame Impala; The Zombies; Big L; EPMD; Dave Brubeck; De La Soul; Lee Perry; The Animals; Johnny Cash; King Tubby; Stan Getz; Pharcyde; Junior Reid; David Axelrod. S–t, don’t get me started, I would fill this page. I love music, especially old stuff that is funky, jazzy, drum and bass line driven. I like to groove. I love dub reggae when I am writing. I dig old rock and early punk when I am in a peppy mood. I don’t listen to pop music or country or hip hop post 1993. If you have good music, send me a mixtape and I will reciprocate. I dig sharing 25 tracks of goodness with my bros.

What causes/organizations do you support?
Recently, I have been moved by www.Kony2012.com. That dude needs to be arrested. I am also a super fan of onepercentfortheplanet.org.

You were with Patagonia for many years, launching their surf retail program at Cardiff and other stores internationally, but you recently took a new role as Director of Marketing for Spy. How is that going?
I am really excited about my new gig there. SPY is an eyewear brand that started nearly two decades ago in my backyard of San Diego, CA. It makes high quality products that go on your face, but it also has a fun and irreverent point of view. Essentially, SPY’s approach will always be to have a healthy disrespect for the usual. It’s under new leadership with Michael Marckx at the helm, who is injecting a lot of renewed energy, focus, and fun ideas into the brand. So expect to see a lot more of SPY in the coming months and years. I am also joining at a time where we are launching a really cool new line called the Crosstown Collection. It’s a vintage style line of shades inspired by the same things that inspired my surfing: style, music, and art. We have some legit surfers backing it like Nate Tyler, Jared Mell, Ryan Burch and Joel Tudor.

What’s next for Devon Howard?
Aside from my new SPY job, I will continue to work on designs with Takayama and my buddy Tyler Hatzikian. I am really inspired by Tyler’s shapes. We have similar interests and are having fun trying to refine Hot Generation style equipment—boards those guys were riding just before Vee bottoms came out. Basically, they are really refined longboards. But the bummer is they disappeared and now guys like Tyler are continuing that line where those dropped off, and seeing where we can take them from a performance standpoint. I am 37 now, so I am interested in staying healthy, fit and flexible. Guys like Jock Sutherland, Wayne Lynch, Gerry Lopez and Michel Junod—who are still ripping into their 60s—inspire me every day.

Photography credits: 1) Todd Glaser, 2) Rubin Pina, 3) Film by Eric Durnam, 4) Todd Glaser, 5) Jeff Johnson, 6) Cyrus Sutton, 7) Jeff Johnson, 8) Todd Glaser

Dan Hamlin is a talented writer/surfer who has penned works for many publications, including Surfers Path and Slide, Drift, and Deep magazines. We spoke with Dan to learn more about his life of writing and surfing.

What was your childhood like?
My childhood was great. I grew up about 20 minutes inland, so I didn’t start surfing until I was 16 and I could drive to the beach. Growing up I was really into the outdoors; camping, fishing, hiking, etc. I loved going to the mountains. In fact, up until I started surfing I thought I’d end up living in the mountains someday.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first surfboard when I was 16. It was a 1970’s G&S single fin. My dad had an old Da Cat longboard that he sold, and as part of the deal the G&S was thrown in. My first session was at Rincon, way inside the cove.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I think the best way to describe it was that it was just pure fun. I hadn’t experienced that type of fun before, and being immersed in nature like that made it that much more special for me. I remember after that first surf I sort of had an identity crisis because up to that point I was all about moving to the mountains. As soon as I had my first surf I knew that things were going to change for me. I don’t know if it’s like this for everyone, but for me my first year of surfing was one of the most magical of my life. Some of my early surfing memories are definitely some of my favorites.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
As a kid I always looked up to my older brother Matt. I just sort of tried to tag along with him and do whatever he was doing. I also looked up to my folks; they’ve always been very giving people. Their willingness to help others had a big impact on my life.

Who/What inspired you to begin writing?
My friend Bryan Jennings was making a movie back in 2006 (Walking On Water). He knew I enjoyed writing and that I was trying to give a legitimate go at it, so when a publication had asked him for an article on the making of the movie, Bryan asked me if I wanted to write it. It was my first legitimate article and it got published so I was over the moon. And from there I’ve just kept pursuing it.

What story do you hope to tell when you write?
I do my best to tell positive stories. There is so much negativity in the world, and so much of main stream media focuses on the bad stuff, so I just want to share stories that won’t focus on the negativity. I don’t want to hide from reality, but if I have to write about a bad situation, I try to find something positive I can draw out of it and share that with people. I’m not naïve; I know what goes on in the world, but I want to focus on the good and not the bad. I also want to keep my writing simple. Too much fluff clouds the point and so I try to avoid falling into that scenario.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
This past summer I went to Nicaragua. At the end of the trip, we met up with my friend Brad Corrigan who runs a non-profit down there called Love, Light, and Melody. Brad started LL&M in an effort to help a community in Managua called La Chureca. La Chureca is literally a trash dump where hundreds of families live and survive by sifting through the city’s waste. Brad took us to La Chureca and showed us how LL&M has been helping. It was heartbreaking to witness that kind of poverty, but at the same time inspiring to see what LL&M is doing there.

Who/what inspires you?
I have a lot of people in my life who inspire me. First and foremost is Jesus Christ. My friends Jesse and Whitney Hines have really showed me the meaning of giving; they mean the world to me. My friend Paul Smith has been a support to me forever and I could never repay him for that. These are just a few of the people who have inspired me in life, but really all my friends inspire me and I wish I had room to name them all.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
There are a few truths that I’ve found in my experience on earth to be unshakable. The first is that God’s love for us (all humanity) is an infinite abyss that can’t be exhausted and He demonstrated that love by dying on a cross. The second is that we reap what we sow. And the third is that all people are equal in God’s eyes and so that is how we should view each other too.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I wish I would have started surfing at an earlier age! As far as regrets go I don’t really have any. But that’s not to say I haven’t made some colossal mistakes in my time. That’s part of the beauty of what Jesus did on the cross. We’re all going to make mistakes, but thanks to Jesus I can accept God’s forgiveness, learn from my mistakes, and move on.

What are you most proud of?
I’m most proud of my relationship with Jesus.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing holds a very special place in my life. It has been the avenue by which I’ve been able to travel the world, experience new cultures, and enjoy the beauty and power of nature. In a way surfing completely rearranged things for me. Like I said earlier, before surfing I was sure I’d end up in the mountains someday, now I can’t imagine living away from the coast. In fact, if I go more than a week without surfing I can’t sleep at night.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Not to sound like a broken record, but Jesus does. I can only speak from my own experience, and in my experience He is the source of true happiness in life.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I think Dane Reynolds is having a huge impact on the direction of surfing. I like how he seems to be riding boards that he finds fun. He doesn’t seem to be too concerned with the status quo, which I find refreshing. The kids coming up who have their own video blogs and websites seem to be getting a lot of press these days. Surfing is definitely evolving at an exponential rate; I just hope it doesn’t lose its soul in the process. The essence of surfing is still the same as it always has been. Hopefully there will always be people who carry on that tradition.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Any board shaped by Robert Weiner will be a good one. But one of my favorite boards of all time has been the Roberts Black Diamond. As for waves, there are a couple of reefs on the Central Coast that when they are good and un-crowded would probably be my favorite waves. The problem is that when they’re good, they’re rarely un-crowded.

What’s your favorite meal?
Any home cooked meal.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Josh Garrels, Gillian Welch, Mumford and Sons, Johnny Cash, Dispatch, the Avett Brothers, Josh Harmony. I pretty much like everything but heavy metal.

What are you most grateful for?
I’m most grateful for my friends and family and most importantly Jesus. I’m also extremely thankful for the support that I’ve had from Jedidiah, Esteem Surf Co, and Roberts Surfboards. I also want to thank my friend Chris Burkard for all his help and generosity over the years.

What’s next for Dan Hamlin?
I hope to continue to travel and surf and hopefully tell stories that inspire people. But truthfully, I don’t really know what’s next at this point so we’ll have to wait and see.

To find out more ab0ut Dan Hamlin and his writing, click here. Principal photography by Chris Burkhard. Beach photo by Kim Diggs. Portrait of Dan Hamlin by Josh Sparrow.

The California Surf Museum is located in Oceanside, California and was founded in 1986 to honor and preserve the history of surfing. We spoke to the newly-appointed Director of the Museum, former pro longboarder Julie Cox.

What were you doing prior to working at the California Surf Museum?
Previously I was competing in professional events and teaching surfing in mainland Mexico at a surf camp for women called Las Olas. I was also competing at international events like the Noosa Festival and the Roxy Jam in Biarritz.

During that time, I also started a line of women-specific surfboards with Jed Noll called the Jule Collection. It was a spin-off from my teaching days at Las Olas. I realized the next step for my students was to buy a board with all of the new skills that they had learned. And I was working at two spas doing massage therapy.

How did you first learn about the Museum?
I actually found the job on Craigslist. I was looking for a steady job and a friend knew that I was looking and thought that it would be perfect for me. I interviewed with Jane (Schmauss), she liked me and they picked me out of 17 applicants.

How long have you been with the Museum?
I did one year at the former location and haveabout three years at the new one. I started out doing visitor services and dong whatever needed to be done, three days a week. Once we moved fromPCH to our Pier View Way location, I was ready to take on a bigger role. The museum needed someone to manage the staff and the building.

Tell us about your newly appointed Director position at the CSM.
At the time, we didn’t have a director for the museum and once again I was ready to take another step in my career. Now I basically oversee everything. I manage the staff and volunteers, oversee everything from events to exhibits, to the museum store. And I look after our communications – from the newsletter and website to social media like Facebook.

What lessons from surfing can you apply to your new position?
Everything can relate to surfing. With so much going on here, sometimes it can be chaos in the storm with double overhead conditions. And some days it’s 2-foot, glassy and sunny – the Museum is mellow, everything is positive and working smoothly. And just like surfing, I’m stoked to paddle out everyday into such a great community. With so many cool people – everyday is a new experience.

Any shout outs?
It’s a huge team effort here. I get to be like a conductor of this talented symphony where everyone plays with such talent and ability. From the board members to the staff and volunteers at events. And we rely on the gifts of people like our co-founder Jane, Sam who just stepped into a full time position, Michelle our membership coördinator, and Todd who manages the store.

What’s are some of the upcoming things we can look forward to from the CSM?
We’ll be doing a movie series every other week called “Big Wednesday.” We’ll have the movies playing with guest speakers with people who are associated with the film. We might even have live narrated films like back in the day. We will present smaller, more intimate educational events like the one we had with Aaron Chang, who recently did a presentation about his water housings. We are also working on launching a new website and our swap meet is at the end of the month. In September, the Museum will be honoring Hobie Alter with a special display and exhibit.

What is the feeling you want a visitor to experience after they visit the museum?
I want them to feel inspired. Nostalgia and history is great, but I want to inspire them in the present to pick up a board and try surfing. And to take care of and archive their own experiences – to share and tell their own stories.

Find out more about the California Surf Museum here. Read our 2009 interview with Julie Cox here. Photography by Glenn Sakamoto.

Trevor Gordon is a talented surfer/artist from Santa Barbara, California. Growing up in the Central Coast, Trevor was influenced by the Curren and Malloy families and developed his own unique style of riding. Trevor is also an avid illustrator and painter. We spoke with Trevor to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I grew up in Santa Barbara, a minute’s walk from the beach, always surrounded by the ocean and mountains. My parents were avid sailors growing up, so life has always revolved around weekend trips out to the Channel Islands. I grew up surfing, boogieboarding and bodysurfing down the road at Leadbetter beach and Sandspit. I was basically your typical surf stoked, skate to the beach, surf kid.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I was about 6 or 7 when I got my first board. I think I bought it off one of my Mom’s co-workers for $5. It was an old 80’s Matt Moore thruster. The thing was so beat up, it looked like a rotten banana patched with stickers and wax. I don’t have it anymore but I wish I did, it probably would have been a super funky little fun board if I could ride it now.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I can’t say that I remember my first feeling on a board but I can remember the feeling of that time period. I can remember the excitement surfing brought me when I first learned, and the feeling it left me with.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were younger?
As far as surfing goes, I’ve always admired people like The Currens and the Malloys, basically local guys. I was never the kid who would go out and get the newest surf movie, so I feel like I was always admiring people who were closer to home and that I knew a little about. I looked up to people I would actually see surfing in Santa Barbara.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Last year, I was able to be a part of an amazing adventure up into Canada’s Pacific Northwest Great Bear Rainforest. That particular part of the coast is the mainland stretch above Vancouver Island up towards the Queen Charlotte Islands. It is entirely untouched and fully wild. We saw grey whales in the lineup, grizzly bears feeding on wild salmon in the rivers and eagles everywhere you looked. We spent 10 days on a sailboat looking for surf, scouring the coastline while each night nestling into a small cove for refuge from the wind.

Does it get better? The mission of the trip was to raise awareness about the rainforest and coastline that is threatened by Enbridge and the oil industry. I will never forget how absolutely pristine that entire coastline is. It definitely was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and not one soon forgotten.

Who/what inspires you?
Art. Music. Travel. Friends. Being around inspired people inspires me. Seeing people go at what they love, creating things, making art, surfing how they feel. Honest things. Sometimes a certain song or musician will inspire me to paint or draw. Other times it’s a surfboard concept.

What was your most memorable wave?
I went to India last year and we found some really amazing waves. I basically just got a long clean barrel. The water was this glowing glassy blue and I could see the coral beneath. I remember pulling out the back, flopping over and thinking “Is this place real?” It was surreal to be surfing in India and getting perfect waves.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The value of appreciating everything around you.

What are you most proud of?
I am proud of where am in my life. And whom I am able to share it with.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My girlfriend, family, making art, surfing, traveling, campfires and Banoffee pie. Put all of those in one place. Please.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
There are a lot of progressive guys out there really raising the bar as always, but I’m no good at keeping up with that. I really like what some of the asymmetrical boards Ryan Burch is making. Ryan Lovelace is throwing some curve balls and making some really cool boards. I really like the way Craig Anderson surfs. As far as shaping the path for surfing, there are just too many paths!

What is currently your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I’m really digging Fletcher Chouinard’s “Fark” model. It’s a really fun fast board, with just the right amount of fish and shortboard. It goes on every trip with me. Ryan Lovelace has also been making me some really fun fishes, hulls, and asymmetrical finless things. My favorite known surf spots are Rincon and Sandspit. Fast waves.

What “Golden Rule” do you live by?
Stress less.

What’s your favorite meal?
Bangers and mash.

What are listening to on your iPod?
Lately I’ve been listening to people like Frazey Ford, Alela Diane. Joe Purdy I really like. M. Ward. Too many to name, but I like folksy simple singer songwriter.

What are you most grateful for?
My Parents for introducing me to the ocean, Patagonia for the opportunities they’ve given.

What’s next for Trevor Gordon?
I’ve got a bunch of drawings in my head that I wish would hit the paper, some arts shows, building the summer garden and a few surf trips not too far out.

Erik Berg is a talented artist from Santa Barbara, CA and is currently a student at the Art Center College of Design. Involved with art at an early age, Erik finds most of his creative inspiration from surfing culture. We spoke with him to learn more.

Tell us about yourself.
I grew up in Santa Barbara, walked to all of my schools, K-12. I was a spaz of kid that could never focus on anything. My creative side comes from my parent’s wisdom in recognizing that I was not going to fit into the standard system, so they pushed me to finish school the best that I could, and helped me hone my artistic skills.

How do you get involved with art/illustration?
I grew up drawing and painting as a kid, I was never able to focus on anything but art. It was in high school when I really started to concentrate on my art as well as my surfing. Both art and surfing became my life, spending my time ditching class to go to the art building and all my time after school trying to find waves. I went to city college after high school and once again directed all my time to art and surfing. I enrolled at the Art Center College of Design, Pasadena in Spring ‘10. Art Center has shaped me as an artist/illustrator/designer, being educated with by the acclaimed faculty, I have hope for my future.

How does surfing influence your art?
Faith, family, art and surfing are what get me up every morning. Since I can’t function without surfing, it influences my work a lot, everything from my color pallete to my line quality. I’m really interested in surf history as well as new technology, so people like Joel Tudor, Tyler Warren, Ryan Burch, Mickey Dora, Skip Frye, Tom Curren, and Dane Reynolds are all inspiring to watch in and out of the water. The surfing culture is what inspires my art the most – things like board design, art, and just the way surfers live their lives. Surfing is something that I will hopefully do for the rest of my life, and will always influence me.

What’s next for Erik Berg?
After I graduate, hopefully I can get a sell out job for the man and pay off my student loans. Honestly, I’ll be trying to better myself as an illustrator and a human, and try to find work doing what I love to do.

 Find out more about Eric Berg and his art here.

JP St Pierre is the owner/operator of Surfy Surfy in Leucadia, California – a retail shop dedicated to bringing the best surfboards to the world. If you have ever met JP or read his popular blog, you would already know that he orbits in an amusing blend of humor, Star Wars trivia, and Bonzers. We spoke with JP to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I was born in 1970 and grew up in a neighborhood called Tortilla Flats in Leucadia. Back then the town was all flower growers, horse ranches, and agriculture. The population was less than 30,000. The street I grew up on was a dirt road and I remember them paving it when I was 3 or 4. Most of the neighbors were immigrants from Mexico who worked for Ecke Ranch which is famous for it’s poinsettias. Everybody had chickens and threw huge barbeques on Sundays. We also had gang violence which just seemed out of place for a small funky hippy surfer town. My parents still live in the same house I grew up in and the Hanels have lived across the street for 35 years.

I was heavily obsessed with dinosaurs, comic books and Star Wars when I was a kid. My friends and I had a lot of freedom to roam and we spent our days exploring the back canyons finding fossils and Indian artifacts and hanging out at the beach for hours and hours. The vast majority of our old stomping grounds are now paved with hundreds of identical tract homes and a Target shopping center.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I learned to surf on my Mom and Dad’s single fins in the inside Swami’s reform in the 70’s. In the early 80’s I rode hand-me-downs from my Dad’s team riders. My first real custom GH shaped me when I was 15. My Dad taught me how to tape off and airbrush it. It was 5’10″ squash tail thruster. We painted a little gecko on the bottom which was kinda my thing there for awhile.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I clearly remember my first real wave. I clumsily took off in the white water at inside Swamis and it reformed into this long crystal clear glassy wall. It was a nice summer day. I somehow hooked up into trim and was suddenly going about a 1,0000 miles an hour. The pure giddy surf stoke sensation I felt on that wave has only happened to me once again in life, getting blown out of a huge green barrel at Pascuales in Mainland Mexico in 1988.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Luke Skywalker, Han Solo, Tom Curren and my Dad are still my heroes.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The greatest thing I’ve learned is that all the corny clichés about life they teach you when you are a little kid turn out to be true. That hard work, honesty and family are the greatest things in life. It’s actually pretty simple when strip it all down to the essentials.

What are you most proud of?
Working off the context that pride is not a sin, I’d say I’m most proud of my wife Yvonne for everything she has accomplished in her life and her career. We’ve been married for 12 years and have two young boys, ages 4 and 2. Yvonne went to architecture school for the first 5 years we were married so we never saw each other, it was hard but worth it. Now she is a project manager at a firm that does large-scale projects and has her own side gig where she does super cool home remodels and businesses. She did the restoration of our historic 1926 building that the surf shop and the coffee shop are in. She calls her style Rustic Modern. She does cool, functional and affordable designs. She is very humble so I have to do all her promoting for her.

The first year we opened Surfy Surfy we also had a baby. Looking back, opening a new business with no money in a recession and having a newborn and a 2 year old was a completely crazy thing to do. I can’t believe we survived.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is my life. I can’t comprehend a life without surfing. I was born and raised in full on surf culture. My mom and dad taught me to surf when I was kid. I grew up in a surfboard factory – first, the factory downstairs at Sunset Surfboards, which is the shop Surfy Surfy is modeled after, and then Moonlight Glassing which was established by my Dad, Peter St Pierre and his crew in 1979.

Surfing has given me all of my friends. There are waves that are permanently burned into my memories. I love surfing and surfboards. I worked full time at Moonlight Glassing sanding and polishing surfboards for 20 years and now we have the surf shop, which is total, surf immersion all day everyday.

These are interesting times for surf culture. Tumultuous times. Surfing is changing rapidly and there are a lot of bad influences in my opinion. My goal is to be a positive influence.

Of all the interesting places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
This might sound goofy but there is no place like home. I love my little funky hometown of Leucadia, which is the northern part of Encinitas, a still small but swiftly growing beach town in northern San Diego county.

The waves range from mushy fun to terrible, but it’s really quite beautiful here in it’s own way. I made a serious commitment some years ago to get politically and socially involved in the town I grew up in. My friend Kevin Cummins and I run a local political blog called theleucadiablog.com which follows our city council and acts as a taxpayer watchdog. I started attending city council meetings, wrote editorials and letters to our local newspapers and joined the Leucadia Mainstreet Association. A lot of people I grew up with have moved away, but I made a conscience decision to stay raise my family here.

The surf shop and coffee shop are a realization of two separate dreams, one to be a positive influence on local surf culture and two, to be part of the revitalization of our neglected historic coast highway commercial corridor.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Hanging out with my wife and two boys on Sundays. I work 6 days a week so I really enjoy my Sunday family time.

Who are some of the individuals you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
In the Surfyverse there are several key talented shapers I admire. Gary Hanel, Malcolm Campbell, Manuel Caro, Rich Pavel, Mike Slingerland, Chris Christenson, Brian Fredrickson, Ed Wright, Bob Harvey, Josh Hall, Tyler Warren, Daniel Thomson, Ryan Burch and Dennis Kane. This is a short list of course and a mix of generations. I once made a list of all the shapers I want boards from and it’s almost 100 deep.

Gary Hanel I feel cracked the code on blending retro templates with progressive rails, rocker, bottom concaves and fins. The great thing about blogs and message boards is that people can now learn about underground shapers like GH.

When the monthly print magazines were the only surf media, surfers only got a limited view of what was out there. Now surfers have access to pretty much every shaper in the world. I enjoy blogging boards from guys like Mike Slingerland who has been a true craftsman since the 1960’s, but aren’t Internet savvy himself. I started the Surfy Surfy blog in 2005 and we’ve now have done over 3,000 posts. The vast majority of them are simple photos of surfboards that I like. It’s a simple concept and I still blown away that my low-tech surfboard blog receives thousands of hits a day. But surfboards are powerful objects. Surfboards are the ultimate blend of function and art. There is nothing else like them in the world. I believe that surfboards are truly important and we need to document these things.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite spot?
The surfboard that changed my life is the Campbell Brothers Bonzer. I saw my first 5 fin Bonzer in person in 1988. Tim Elsner showed it to me. My first impression was wow, that is really futuristic but then my mind snapped shut due to being an ignorant teenager and I decided it looked weird and that a modern surfboard was a thruster and a thruster only. A year later my Dad wisely insisted I ride one. My first session was leashless on a perfect glassy A-frame August day in trunks. It was a 6’0” 5 fin shortboard. The speed and drive just blew my mind. I did the best roundhouse cutback I had ever done and then I was hooked. I surfed for 6 hours straight, got super sunburned and dehydrated. I remember walking to an ice cream shop after my session and devouring 2 ice cream cones because they were 2 for a dollar and I only had like a buck fifty on me.

I ride a diverse quiver of surfboards, but the Campbell Brothers Bonzer is the cornerstone of my surfing existence. Thank goodness Malcolm and Duncan have stuck with the design for over 40 years.

What’s your favorite meal?
I’m not a foodie. I basically exist off burritos like every other surfer in southern California. Now that I’m in my early 40’s I need to start eating better. I should probably become a vegan and start doing yoga or something.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I don’t have any music on my iPod. I do have a rather large collection of vinyl records I’ve collected from thrift stores. But my 2 year old son broke the arms off my turntables so the records are out of commission right now. I listen to a lot of loungey stuff on Pandora internet radio. Pandora can actually be a bit frustrating but I’m sticking with it. My favorite album is Herb Alpert’s Whipped Cream and Other Delights if that tells you anything. The last rock band I was excited about was The Black Keys. They have broken through to the mainstream now which means I’m not supposed to like them anymore – but I still do. I like jazz and electronic music too.

At Surfy Surfy we have a tradition of hosting live bands on weekends and we are going to expand on that with the new coffee shop open next door. You can keep track of our live events through the Surfy Surfy Facebook page.

What causes/ projects/ organizations do you support?
I support Surfer Labor. It is my strong and passionate belief that surfboards should be shaped, glassed and sanded by surfers for other surfers.

What’s next for JP St. Pierre?
Surfy Surfy surf shop is nearing our 2-year anniversary. It’s been a lot of blood, sweat and tears getting it to this point. The first year we opened something like 150 businesses in the city of Encinitas shut down. It was heavy. Year three for Surfy Surfy is extremely important. The plan is to continue onward and forward, learn from our mistakes and continue to keep the stoke going. Our customers are the greatest people on Earth and have been patient with us. It’s more like a movement than just a retail shop.

I’ve got a good support team behind me including the best surf shop manager in the world Summer Nelson. Summer learned to surf on my old surfboards. Her brother Dave Thomas is my oldest surf buddy and part owner of the shop. You won’t find more down to earth sincere surfers beyond Dave and Summer.

Surfy Surfy is about authenticity, real surfers doing real things. We are going to continue providing the best surfboards in the world to our fellow surfers and that’s an exciting thing to be a part of.

To learn more about JP St Pierre and Surfy Surfy, click here. “Peace Drop-in” photo by  Jeff Nelson. All other surfing photographs by Maggie Marsek. Portraits by the author.

This is the story about 30,000 lost black and white negatives from Surfing Magazine circa 1970s, found at a swap meet. It becomes a journey from California to Hawaii to reunite the creators and stars of that pivotal time in surfing history. We spoke with director Doug Walker to learn more.

What motivated you to make Lost & Found?
It’s really a magical story. Life can be funny, we get married, raise kids and it goes on. But as my son was filling out college apps a few years ago, my wife came home with a new camera and said “It’s time. You need to make something.” The next day I traveled to LA for a project, took the new camera and woke up early on Saturday morning to go shoot some surfing. I grew up in LA as a surfer, so it was just something that became me. As I captured footage early that morning, I went to my office to look and assemble the material and had a rush of enlightenment. I called my producer in SF and said I really want to do a surfing project. The next morning I would awake to find something that would change my life.

It was Sunday at 5:30 a.m. and I knew that the Rose Bowl swap meet was taking place. I attended it whenever I was in town, as I would look for anything surf related like old boards, magazines, hula lamps etc. But on that day as I came across a lot for sale, I saw 3 cardboard file boxes. I opened the first box, I saw envelopes piled on top of each other, each dated by month and year. I reached into the first envelope dated Sept. 1974, I pulled a stack of negatives out. As I took the first sheet and held it to the sun – I experienced an instant flashback to me at age 14, looking through surf magazines back in the ‘70s. The images flashed across my eyes. I knew who and what they were; Lopez, Bertlemann, Rory Russell, Jock Sutherland, Reno, Michael Ho, Buttons, Shaun, and MR – The legends.

I knew that something had just happened and it found me. And that it would be my responsibility to make something that truly preserves history. But what could it be? The journey would begin…

What was the most surprising thing that happened during filming?
For me, it was how I was able to allow these guys to open up in front of the camera and telling pure, honest accounts. There was no plan and as the stories were unfolding, you had to find ways to complete what they were talking about. But the one thing that really stood out for me is how they would talk about their parents. It was unexpected, honest, and pure.

What difficulties did you encounter?
Making a film is tough in general. Especially a large project like this. But I knew that I had to just keep moving forward and complete it. The biggest challenge was proving to people I was truly trying to make something and preserve history.

Who was the most fascinating person that you filmed?
I’d have to say Dan Merkel. Dan is someone who I have gotten to know quite well and I know that I have in return given something to him. He is someone who just has a bark but no bite. He is someone who, to this day, is living the dream as he travels all year still trying to capture that perfect photograph. He truly is “Man Mountain”

What is the greatest reward you have received making Lost & Found?
To share. It has always been about that.

Where did you study filmmaking?
I grew up in LA around the film industry. My Mom worked for Warner Bros, and as a kid I hung out on the lot so I knew in some form this was where I was going to end up. From there I became a film editor and built a post production company in LA, SF & NY. Editing has been my passion. Its the most important part of any project. But now getting behind the camera and creating with an editing eye as magical. It has made me the filmmaker that I am and want to be.

What do you love about surfing?
What’s not to love? It’s freedom of expression. Nobody has come out of the water feeling bummed.

What’s next for Doug Walker?
Who knows? I am still talking to additional people and wanting to continue to capture their lives and story. I am heading down to Mexico next week to interview Corky Carroll then returning to see Peter Townend. The one thing I can say is that I have been told that “I didn’t find it, but that it found me”. Share and enjoy the Aloha!

The film Lost & Found will be playing at the following locations and dates:
April 28– Newport Beach Film Fest
May 11– San Diego Surf Film Fest

To learn more about the Lost & Found film, click here. For projects with Doug Walker and Locksmith Content, click here. 

Amanda Chinchelli is originally from Italy and is the founder and designer of Seea, a women’s specific line of surfwear. Brian Greer is the sales/operations manager and a former Bay Area resident. A husband and wife team, they create their locally crafted, 100% California line of suits in San Clemente, California.

Tell us about your background in design and fashion.
I graduated with a political science degree (laughs). Originally, I worked with my brother doing graphic design work for clients in the fashion business. Later, I moved to the US with Brian and we both went to work in San Francisco. I learned a lot working at a skateboard company – Deluxe. There I learned how to really specify and produce clothing for manufacturing.

Where did you get the inspiration to start a swimwear company?
It all started when I sewed myself a swimsuit to go surfing in Costa Rica last March. I was thinking about this concept for a long time – to make retro swimsuits. It just seemed to make a lot of sense.

How did you come up with name “Seea” for your company?
It’s my way of saying the word “sea” in Italian. In the my language, we have vowels that are really open. So I read it as (say-ah). It gradually turned out to be called “see-ah” because that’s how everyone ended up pronouncing it.

Why retro inspired suits?
It just fits a longboard style, you know? Surfing for me was never about the competition aspect. It was about going out and having fun and enjoying a healthy hobby. Yes, it’s a sport, but it’s also a way to relieve stress. And longboarding just fits women so well – it’s not how many tricks you do, it’s how you feel when you are on a wave – how you express yourself.

Tell us more…
Watching how ladies surf, I wanted to create something that was functional. But to be able to make something that was cute, and fun, and stylish. The main goal for me was to create a product that would protect you from the sun but would still look “cool,” without looking like a rash guard made with a thousand logos.

Who buys your suits?
Our audience is surprisingly really wide. There are a bunch of teenagers that like the retro part because it’s cool and trendy. But we also have ladies that purchase our suits who are older. In fact, Ashley Lloyd’s mom bought one in Malibu.

What do you love about surfing?
I grew up in the water since I was a little child growing up in Brazil. As I got older, I became a snowboarder and yet I always attracted to the surfing culture. When Brian and I moved to San Francisco, we finally had some waves to try. We started surfing and I just fell in love.

The best part of surfing is how you can express your individuality. I also really love is the unbelievable high that you get when surfing. I have never felt anything like it. I remember when we first moved here and I was surfing a lot. I would close my eyes and all I could see were waves.

Where do you get your inspiration for your line?
I think of function first. It might be something I might need for a surf trip. Or it could be “I hate rash guards that raise up in the back and then I get sunburned on my back.” So I ask myself, “How can I make a one-piece that is a long sleeve that still looks fun?” Details like the stripe print came about by thinking of a vintage Greg Noll type of thing. I didn’t want to be too literal, so I did the stripes as a watercolor!

Where do you come up with your color combinations?
I think I learned about color from my Mom. Colors come natural for me. Color is my main expression and bright colors make me happy. I also like to mix muted colors with brights, too.

What do you want your customer to feel when they wear your suits?
I want my customer to feel comfortable as well as protected from the sun and wind. What my customers always tell me is that they love the line when they see it – but when they actually feel the fabrics – that is when they fall in love.

Why make things locally?
It was important to me to manufacture our suits here to support the US. Even though I wasn’t born here in America, I want to be respectful and help the local economy.

Who do you admire?
Julie Cox. She is such an amazing surfer. I was at the Surfing Museum in Oceanside and I attended the Women of Waves exhibit and saw a video of her surfing. I said to myself, “Oh my goodness, this is how I want to surf!” I emailed her and told her how much I admired her surfing, and that if I could share a session with her. She was so sweet and said yes. We became very good friends after that and we even featured her in our catalog.

What do you love about living in San Clemente?
We live in a really great house and I can walk to T-Street in 10 minutes. And it is really close to Downtown LA when I need to get things for my business. It’s a wonderful place to live.

What’s next for Seea?
The main goal for us is to continue having this wonderful surfing lifestyle, to work hard on Seea, and to be able to take surf trips. We’re happy. Very happy.

To learn more about Seea, please visit their website here. Photography of product provided by Seea. Portraits of Amanda and Brian by the author.

Will Adler is a surfer/photographer from Santa Barbara, CA. His photographic images capture moments of time that stir memories of our collective ocean experience. We spoke with Will to learn more about what stokes his creativity.

What was your life like when you were a child?
Great, lots of daydreaming and running around.

When did you get your first surfboard?
It was my 10th birthday, I bought a beat up 6’0” Rusty board with some neon paint job. I don’t know what happened to that thing– first boards should be saved.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a surfboard?
I remember how clear the water was– I could see the sand bottom moving beneath me, other than that pretty much the same thing I feel now– awesomeness.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were growing up?
There were a lot of people throughout the years. The Ghostbusters, my parents, a lot of the older guys who would surf at my home town spot, Hammonds. Tom Curren and Chris Brown are a couple local heroes.

Who/what inspires you?
Friends, coffee, music, books, the internet, my Uncle, my girlfriend, Morgan Maassen, fog, working, nudity, the outdoors, the ocean, Albert Jenks, my brother, weirdness, laughter, travel, car rides, cameras, people who make things, animals…

What do you look for when creating a photograph?
I am always looking around for anything to shoot. What usually catches my attention is a particular mood or feeling. I get excited when I see anything humorous or a bit odd; I love images that kind of make you stop and think. Anything with a lot of empty space– keep it simple is my recurring theme. When it comes to surfing, it’s all about style.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To keep learning. Live life. Say yes. Travel anytime you get the chance. Always ask for help when you need it, and give help when you can. Love. Goof off.

What are you most proud of?
Following what I love.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
I have been very lucky when it comes to traveling. I’ve had the chance to see a lot of the world and every place has something to offer. But if I had to pick a place to shoot photos, it would be the desert. I love the space and mystery out there. Baja is a great example.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
It has shaped the second half of my life, through friends, travels and I guess just my general outlook on things.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Family and friends always, music, creating things, picking up film from the photo lab, being outside.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
People covered in foam dust… Seriously though, there are so many people pushing it in so many different directions, I can’t wait to see where people take it throughout my lifetime. Mother Nature. Laird.

What is your current favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I don’t have a favorite board right now, but my 10’ Stu McRobbie board gets ridden the most this time of year. The best board I’ve ridden lately is this really bizarre looking thing that Ryan Lovelace shaped, it’s like 7’8″ and has a real wide tail– the thing flies with no effort whatsoever. My favorite spot will always be Hammonds, for the fun waves and good crew.

What’s your favorite meal?
Whatever is in front of me, and a couple beers.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
To day it’s been: The Standells, Ween, J.J Cale, Yo La Tengo, Iron Horse and tortoise. That looks way weirder in writing than it sounded.

What are you most grateful for?
Good friends and family and all the great opportunities life has given me.

What’s next for Will Adler?
Lunch, then maybe moving to New York for a few months.

To learn more about Will Adler and to see more of his amazing work, click here.

By Eddie Solt

Adam Davenport bucks the trend of the LA County, pop/punk, thruster/quad riding foam jockeys, and follows a linear legacy that goes straight back to Velzy. His whole operation could be described as roots rock-and-roll with a heavy dose of blues, with a tiny bit of surf guitar used as the catalyst.

A native of the South Bay, born at Torrance Memorial Hospital and a fourth generation Southern Californian, his first board was fittingly an 8′ 6″ pintail shaped by legendary Pat “Gumby” Ryan, head of the shaping helm at ET Surf.

“My feeling of first being upright was the best sensation ever,” Davenport said, “I was truly immersed, hook, line, and sinker, and I still can’t get enough.”

Like a lot of cats and kittens with a Southern California upbringing, his parents plopped the young Davenport into the Junior Lifeguard program, keeping him on the beach and fortifying his skills in the soup. “I remember my first hang ten,” Davenport said,“It was at 34th street on my Dad’s old Bing Noserider.”

He soon picked up the planer as he was not able to afford the boards that fit the kind of surfing he was jiving for. “I had a picture in my mind, and I still do – a golden era/generation of pure longboard surfing, and I wanted to somehow translate that into the boards that I rode, and the style of which I surfed.”

With this inspiration, the prepubescent Davenport was driven to the old Walker Foam Factory in Wilmington by his mother. He purchased seconds and discarded blanks and promptly went to work in his mother’s garage, sauteing and shredding foam, and generally wreaking havoc in foam dust all over the place. Needless to say, young Adam was stoked to be finally have the correct equipment that would eventually help him with his own interpretation of wave riding. “I always looked up to the way my Father and Uncle surfed, the guys in the Bruce Brown, Dale Davis, and MacGillivray/Freeman movies,” Davenport said, “I wanted to be a part of what they were during that particular era, too, as I grew up with a absolute disdain for the modern thruster.”

His home base is in the “Cen-Bay,” an area that encompasses Playa Del Rey, El Segundo, and El Porto. His father and uncles grew up surfing Ballona Creek and were on the Roberts Surfboards surf team with boards shaped by Robert Milner.

“Growing up and hearing stories from my Uncles and Father,” Davenport continued, “Wayne Miyata’s Glass Shop and that whole mystique/fraternity of boards that inhabited the area caught my imagination. When I was in Elementary School, I used to daydream about being the sander for Bing Copeland and sanding noseriders shaped by Dan Bendickson.”

The atmosphere of El Porto “line-down” feeds the young Davenport in his ultimate expression. “El Porto – home of surf takers and snakers, surf jocks and bros, with their lifted trucks in the parking lot, cluttered with Body Glove and Channel Island Stickers on the windows, paddling for every wave with their homely aggressive flailing arms, with no substance and about all trends. “Yeah, that’s my checkpoint for surfism,” Davenport said.

With the South Bay of the ‘60s as his major influence, and with Hermosa Beach being the center of this surf culture, Davenport gives credit due to his influences.“Hermosa Beach and the South Bay were the hubs of the surfing world,” Davenport said. “Bing, Noll, Jacobs, and Rick were all located here and Weber was up the street in Marina Del Rey (and not Venice) – five of the world’s biggest surfboard manufacturers.”

Once Davenport shaved a few blanks here and there, he had time to graduate with a BA in History from Cal Lutheran, where he was also their starting center and offensive tackle. He even turned down his aspirations of being an attorney after being accepted into Loyola Law School.

He was first employed by Aquatech Glassing in Venice Beach, CA doing board restoration, ding repair, and polishing. “Scott [Anderson] and Sean [O’Leary] taught me the fundamentals of using a power sander, resin, and other disciplines,” Davenport explained,“Love those guys and will always be grateful to them for giving me a shot.”

Along the way, Davenport was also influenced by Fineline Surfboard’s Brian Hilbers and Mike Gibe of Cigars of the Pharoahs. “(Hilber’s) is one of my all time heroes,” Davenport said. “He grabbed me by the neck and showed me the basics of using a Skill 100 power planer, board design and theory, and helped me design my own version of his own model, “The Zombie,” which bacame my “The Thing” model.” “Gibe helped me take my board building to another level. For proper finish work, functionality and form, Mike is the constant detail oriented mentor that has smoothed out the rough edges and steered me in a direction that only he and Tyler are in.”

El Segundo’s Tyler Hatzikian of Tyler Surfboards, our generation’s Dale Velzy, is Davenport’s father figure in the world of shaping as well as his boss. Davenport spends a lot of time sanding Tyler’s latest “advanced traditional design” concepts and products. “What can I say about Tyler – he has taken me under his wing and made me what I am today,” Davenport said. “Everything I do, and how I do it, is because of him, his techniques, work ethic, and skill. I just want to make him proud and represent his label and boards in a way that reflects his class and craftsmanship.”

Currently, Davenport’s catalog includes ‘60s inspired equipment with model names like, “The California Classic,” “4065” and “The Pig.” On the quirky side, other models like “El Cadejo,” “On the Rocks,” and “The Thing,” separate Davenport from other shapers that sometimes rely heavily on names and archaic board designs from the past.

“The pig is my take on a classic early ‘60s design with a f(lipping) D-fin and no god da(rn) leash apparatus,” says Davenport.” The ‘El Cadejo’ is more of a mid-’60s noserider with parallel rails and slight hips for speedy points. ‘The Thing’ is a small wave noserider with a ten-inch tail block and a massive V, The ‘4065’ is the bastard love child of a mid-’60s Weber Performer and a Rick UFO, and the ‘On The Rocks’ is all about the jive, being a cool casual cat in critical sections, to maintaining correctly timed noserides in the pocket, and ripping Dewey Weber-esque cutbacks.”

With his surfboard lineup being solidified, Davenport’s goal is keeping his scene small enough to cater to his clientele and to be able to “build a core group of enthusiasts and friends who have a like-minded outlook on surfing, make great boards for my family, and keep doing a good job for Tyler, and never, ever letting him down.”

He is grateful to his family for their support and encouragement, without which he feels he could not have become the person that he is today. His special lady Mel, is always by his side. “Every year I raffle a couple boards for charity during the South Bay Film Series Festival that takes place in early September,” Davenport said, “Well, one of the winners happened to be Mel – it was then that I met the love of my life.”

Davenport lists a nice juicy medium steak, a baked potato, salad, and a tall can of ice-cold beer to his favorite food list. What’s bouncing in the corridor of his white van from the tape deck? Freddie King, Albert King, Paul Butterfield, Wes Montgomery, Kenny Burrell, Grant Green, and T-Crit. Things that bum Adam out: Shortboards, San Diego’s obsession with Bob Simmons’ shapes,SUP’s, inlanders, Surfer Magazine, clothing companies, leashes, booties, and hipster-claiming hulls.

Tyler Surfboard’s test pilot and South Bay surfer, Mike Siordia, agrees with most that Davenport is the right fit to continue the South Bay shaping legacy and the culture around it. “Adam gets it. Davenport represents craftsmanship and functional hotdoggin’ vehicles.”

What’s next for Mr. Davenport? “Become the second best board builder next to Tyler, follow in his footsteps, and continue to craft his boards. Make him proud.”

For more information on Davenport Surfboards check out his website here and his blog here. His boards can be found at Mollusk Surf Shop, Venice, CA, Wave Front Surf Shop, Ventura, CA, and Surf Country, Goleta, CA.

Principal photography by Mellisa Neff. Photos of Adam doing a floater and holding the green board shot by Kiyo Okada of Classic Wave.

Serena Mitnik-Miller is a talented surfer/artist who was raised in Hawaii and now calls Northern California her home. Together with her husband Mason St. Peter, Serena operates The General Store and Two Birds Fly, both of which creates and sells goods related to a coastal lifestyle. Her surf projects include designing for the Dear & Yonder film and board designs with Marc Andreini. We spoke with Serena to learn more

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My mom and my grandparents and my family.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I can’t remember exactly when but I know it was an used Aipa long board and I loved it.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Indescribable. I vaguely remember my head was filled with salt water and my arms were wet noodles and then I stood up and I was hooked!

Where did you interest in art come from?
I was born the daughter of two artists I can’t even remember not drawing or painting.

What is your process when creating your art?
Very organic, I go through phases of mediums and materials but am always working out the ideas in my head either painting wood blocks, shooting photographs or simply painting on paper.

Who/what inspires you?
I find inspiration in the unexpected.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
So far how little I really know and how much more there is to learn.

What are you most proud of?
Everything that has brought me to this moment and all the people who have supported me along the way.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Whether I am surfing, swimming, diving, sailing or just standing in the dunes the ocean has a calming effect that puts my mind at ease.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Adventures with my beloved family and friends!

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
Depends on the day, my top three now are my Andreini Vaquero, Crème death dagger and Dano log / warm water left hand point breaks around the world.

What’s your favorite meal?
I am a snackster. I love summer time when all the fruits are fresh and in season.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Beach House.
What causes/ projects/ organizations do you support?
Save the Waves, Japan Earthquake Relief, Charity Water, MYOO, 350.org…

What are you most grateful for?
Life, family, friends and love. Oh and my cats and dog.

What’s next for Serena Mitnik-Miller?
Only time will tell…

Find out more about Serena Mitnick-Miller here. Portrait of Serena by Andrew Paynter.

By Mary Mills

Cher Pendarvis is the living embodiment of more recent surfing history than can be squeezed into one interview. She has shaped boards, foiled fins, competed in the first professional women’s tour and been one of the first surfers to ride a fish. Cher graciously allowed us to talk to her about her life as a surfer and artist.

What was your life like growing up?
My family lived in San Francisco when I was born. My mom was an artist who always sought out beautiful places. Then, when I was about five years old, Mom and I moved to the South Shore of Oahu, as my father (a Navy officer) was deployed on a ship in the Eastern Pacific. Living in Honolulu in the 1950s was beautiful and sweet, a highlight of my young life, and this is where I first saw surfing. I was mesmerized by the grace of the surfers as they glided toward shore singly or sharing waves together.

Travels took us to the Philippines, Japan, Hong Kong and then eventually back to San Diego, California. My parents divorced and my mom remarried. Life became hard for my mom and I when my stepfather (another Navy officer) came into the house. We continued to move, this time for a short time in Newfoundland and then to Florida for a few years. My father stayed in San Diego, but was out of contact. My mom and I longed to come back to San Diego, as we loved the dynamic landscape and the Pacific Ocean.

Surfing is something you were determined to do whether you had permission to do it or not. Why do you think you were ready to figuratively go to battle in order to be able to surf?
Surfing is beauty, oneness with nature… the blessing of riding moving energy on the ocean… freedom, inspiration and creativity

My stepfather had grown up in the Depression and he did not approve of the bohemian life of many surfers. He was determined that there would be no surfing: “No daughter of mine is going to surf!” I think he was threatened by a kind of joy and freedom that he did not understand. There was alcohol and violence in the home. I kept my head down, studied hard at school and escaped to friends’ homes when possible.

Mom dreamt to surf too and we quietly talked about the beauty of the waves. After school, I loved to ride my bike to the beach to watch the surfers. In 1964, she and I were at the beach on Easter weekend. I was 13. After asking permission, I borrowed the lifeguard’s paddleboard and rode my first wave standing. From that day on, I mustered up courage to ask to borrow boards when people were finished surfing. I learned to surf on my own by watching others.

When did you get your first surfboard?
In the summer of 1966, I helped out at a surf shop—patching dings—and earned $45 to pay for an old 9’7″ that had been broken in half and repaired. It was heavy in the tail and I thought the added weight helped me get longer noserides! This board weighed about 30 pounds, and I walked about three miles to the beach carrying it in all kinds of weather.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
The incredible free feeling of riding moving energy swept me away! A wave is energy made visible! Riding waves was a dream come true as I had longed to surf for years.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young woman?
The people I looked up to were my mother and teachers who were encouraging and kind at school. Mom was a talented artist, free spirit and entrepreneurially-minded businesswoman.

The first photos that I saw of surfing women in 1960s publications were of Shelley Merrick, Linda Benson and Joey Hamasaki, I was so stoked. At Ocean Beach in the late 60s, I met Judy Dibble and Joyce Hoffman, who lived in OB at the time. It was inspiring to see them out surfing. I am also inspired by special men that we’ve surfed with since the 1960s, including Thomas Threinen, Skip Frye, Ricky Ryan, Steve Lis, Jeff Ching, Larry Gephart, John Brockway, Bunker Spreckels, Ben Ferris, Larry Duff, Jon Riddle, Steve Pendarvis and others.

You and Rell Sunn were among the first generation of female professional surfers. At the time that you were competing, did either of you recognize that you were making history and, essentially, opening doors for female surfers who followed?
We were surfers and waterwomen first, purely loving the ocean and everything around it. The year leading up to the First Hang Ten Women’s Pro at Malibu in 1975 and the championships are important memories. Rella stayed with the Pro events longer than I did. I appreciated the encouragement that Rella and Jericho shared that I should continue, but responsibilities at home prevented me from traveling on tour. Also, in my heart, I am more of a soul surfer than a media person.

I want to thank our dear friend Skip Frye, who encouraged me to join WISA in early 1975 and participate in the series leading up to the first Women’s Pro. The sweet lifelong friends we made and the adventures we shared were the most wonderful blessings to come out of it.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Oh, this is a challenge to choose just one place! Hawaii, for the love of cultural traditions, aloha of the people, beauty of the land and surfing. Australia, for its wide, expansive landscapes, pristine points and friendly people. New Zealand for its gorgeous greens and dynamic oceans. Oahu is my second home.

Who or what inspires you, whether it be as a surfer, an artist, a historian or a photographer?
God inspires. All creativity is a gift.

Surfing has always been revered as a gift from God. Quiet time in the ocean is a good time to pray, and we often ride “long life” prayer waves for friends and family who need healing and comfort … praying all the while, and sending out love.

As an artist, beauty, color, light and soul inspire my visual arts. Drawing and painting are a meditation, as is photography with my film and digital cameras.

As I love to write and have a passion for history, it’s wonderful to lift up people who inspire us, as a way to share and give back. I’m honored to write features about people we love and are inspired by.

I’m inspired by our elders, including Skip Frye, Uncle Val Ching, Jim “Mouse” Robb, Linda Benson, Dr. Walter Munk and Ruth Simmons Hilts. Skipper and Uncle Val are amazing watermen who revere God, live well, love the ocean and share wisdom and kindness with others. We love and respect our elders.

You are a true Renaissance woman—your abilities range from shaping to fin foiling to color work to glassing to photography and to art. Has it ever occurred to you that you epitomize the term “one of a kind” and that your history in surfing is unmatched by any other woman in that respect?
Thank you for your very kind thoughts. Being in the moment with whatever I’m doing, I don’t think about myself, but the project that is being worked on. I am thankful to have lived through the eras and to have wonderful, varied experiences.

Being self-employed much of my life has led to learning and a variety of experiences, working hard, solving challenges and focusing on the projects at hand. I am thankful for the opportunities kind friends and colleagues have shared, and treat all work with respect.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
A very comforting fact… that God is in control of everything. God is Love. The Lord loves each and every one of us, and each person is perfect in the eyes of God. It’s always my hope and desire to see others as God sees people, and to share kindness with all. There is strife in the world, and it’s good to share love and kindness with others. Thank you to Uncle Val for sharing wisdom from your grandmother: “Faith, hope and charity are most important in this life.” And we take these wise words to heart!

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Life is for learning, and there are no regrets. I’ve lived honestly and gracefully, and have done my best. If you realize you’ve made a mistake, ask for God’s guidance, and for His help with forgiveness and peace … for others and yourself.

What are you most proud of?
In the late 1960s and early 1970s, when so much creativity was going on with surfing and board-building in Point Loma and Ocean Beach, I was an artist in college, building boards with family and friends… and riding the boards that we made. Our friend Steve Lis invented the fish here. I was among the first surfers riding fish standing in 1970. Those were amazing times!

Over the last eighteen years I’ve written several educational books that combine art and technology, they’re published by Peachpit Press in Berkeley. The books are a wonderful creative challenge and require very focused work to write, design and produce. The latest is the new Painter Wow! Book, tenth edition.

I’m honored that the article I wrote about Uncle Val Ching for the Surfers Journal is helping him reach out with his teaching of the Hawaiian traditions—farming taro and arts. And I’m proud that he was recognized as a Hawaiian treasure by the governor of Hawaii and mayor of Honolulu in the summer of 2011. June 25 will forever be Uncle Val Ching Day in Hawaii! Stevie Lis asked me to help him share his life story and the origins of his fish design. I was very honored to write a profile about him for the Surfers Journal. The fish is still my favorite surfboard design. Both of these pieces are labors of love for people that we care for deeply.

Another love is surfing history and I have worked as a historian for more than 10 years. I’ve enjoyed researching the surfing history of our area… Point Loma, Ocean Beach and have created presentations and slide shows for the Ocean Beach Historical Society. I’ve also helped prepare exhibits in conjunction with the San Diego Maritime Museum and California Surf Museum and lent support with Surfing Heritage.

I’m very proud of my husband Steve. He is wonderfully creative and has a strong work ethic. Steve accomplishes a lot with just a little. He is a one-man-band building his hand-crafted surfboards, always exploring and innovating. The boards he makes stoke people and make them happy.

A few years ago Steve and I were commissioned to make a special surfboard that would be presented to the President of Liberia, Ellen Johnson Sirleaf. And in 2011, we were commissioned to make an art surfboard that would be given as a gift to Archbishop Desmond Tutu of South Africa. Steve and I are incredibly honored and humbled to build these boards, and are thankful to our client who commissioned our work.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
As a young girl, surfing helped me realize independence for the first time. Riding a wave allows us to be one with nature and the moving energy. Surfing and being in the ocean nurture my art and writing. Surfing is a creative expression and healthy release. It gives me great joy to share waves with loved ones.

Every wave is a prayer and a gift. A wave is energy made visible! I reflect on how far a wave has traveled to the place where we can ride it.

Tell us about your hip replacement and how the experience of having a joint replaced has impacted your surfing.
First off, I am thankful to God and my doctor for putting me back together again. The year before the hip replacement was very painful and it was excruciating to hop up on my board, but I pushed through the pain. I did everything I could to avoid the hip replacement surgery, but in the end, the replacement became necessary.

The very forward, talented surgeon did an excellent surgery. I was able to swim two and a half weeks after the surgery in a pool or calm ocean, and continued to do water exercises. Four months after the surgery, I surfed for the first time. Having the joint replacement has given me back the active life that I love.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Love of God, my husband, close friends and family, being out in nature and keeping good thoughts for others make me happy. I appreciate the beauty that God has blessed us with. I’m also grateful for surfing, art, drawing, painting, photography and writing.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
There are many. In general, people who are true to their hearts and beliefs. With the internet today, people aren’t as isolated as they once were. Anyone can share their work and friendship through blogging now. We are happy to see young people with open minds who want to experience things for themselves … some of the things that we still enjoy … for instance, dreaming up creative ideas and pushing their own limits with art and surfboard design.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Most of my favorite boards are related to the fish. I enjoy riding a variety of craft from longboards to short fish, surf mats and paipo belly boards.

My favorite spots are reef breaks near where we live, some point breaks in Baja and a few spots in Oahu and Kauai.

What’s your favorite meal?
An organic salad with all the trimmings; it’s a healthy meal in a bowl. Some of the ingredients are romaine, spinach, carrots, red cabbage, tomatoes and avocado. Feta cheese is a tasty topping. We like to make our own dressing using olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Well, on CD, radio and streaming… listening to IZ, Gaby, Makaha Sons, Brothers Cazimero (and the sweet Hawaiian tunes that kind Hawaiian friends have shared with us), jazz on KSDS 88.3 and Hawaiian music on KKCR.org.

What causes and organizations do you support?
Rell Sunn Educational Foundation, Sunset Cliffs Surfing Association, Ocean Beach Historical Society, California Surf Museum, Humanity United, San Diego Maritime Museum, Surfing Heritage Foundation, Surfrider, Surfers for Cetaceans, The Groundswell Society, and Wildcoast.

What are you most grateful for?
God’s love and grace. And I’m grateful for the discovery that God blesses us with family through close friendships. Friends are the family that we choose. I am thankful for my husband Steve, our lifelong friendships, artistic collaborations and wonderful, close community. Life is more tempered now at 61 years, and I’m thankful for each day.

What’s next for Cher Pendarvis?
Only God knows … in my heart, keeping close to God walking in the Light; being grateful for each day; keeping true to our hearts; sharing kindness, working hard at the work God gives us while appreciating creative pursuits, and surfing as long as I can move.

To find out more about Cher Pendarvis, click here. To learn more about Pendoflex Surfboards, click here.

Image credits: 1. Thomas Threinen 2. Thomas Threinen 3. Michele Jacquin 4. Jim Pigeon 5. Steve Pendarvis 6. “Downstream Weather,” painting by Cher Pendarvis 7. Thomas Threinen 8. “Seaview 2,” painting by Cher Pendarvis 9. Steve Pendarvis

Mark Tipple is a talented Australian surfer/photographer/filmmaker who is the creator of “The Underwater Project.” Instead of your standard surf photography, Mark’s images reveal the power of the ocean and his subject’s raw emotion. We spoke with Mark to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
My family moved around a fair bit when I was young, my father was heavily into ministry and we ran a few churches in out of the way places. The constant changes in schools and locations meant my brother and I grew pretty close, we’d always fight like any brothers but when we were on the road we’d stick together. My mum has always been super supportive in whatever we were into, from surfing or sports to terrible garage bands – she’d always be stoked with a smile.

When did you get your first surfboard?
When I was about 4 years old we ‘settled for a while’ in an outer suburb of Brisbane, Oueensland, which was just over an hour to the Gold Coast. I remember dad taking his paddle ski to the coast and putting Luke on the front and me on the back, and paddling out to sea a few hundred meters, then turning around and catching a wave in. We’d always get dumped in the shore break and come up laughing, which I think made dad happy as surfing should come naturally to us. He’d been a surfer most of his life living out of a Kombi wagon and working a few odd jobs to make money to travel and surf, so when we were comfortable in the ocean he gave us boogie boards for Christmas one year, then we moved to a surfboard later on.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I had been riding a body board for a few years but chose to take a longboard out one day when I was about 13, I remember it was a pretty fun small day with waves rolling down the sand bank with no one out. As I got to my feet on the first wave I looked around and almost fell off as I was so high above the wave compared to riding a bodyboard. It was super different, but made me appreciate all sides of wave riding. Now I ride different forms of boards and body surf whenever I can. I think there’s so many ways to ride waves – every wave caters to different crafts.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
I wanted to be in the NBA playing for the Chicago Bulls. I used to shoot around in my backyard with friends and I’d always be Michael Jordan. It was a dream for most of my youth; even when I hated school I didn’t realise that I’d need it to get into college before getting into the NBA.

As I grew older and moved away from basketball, I played drums in a few punk bands, went through the Nirvana stage and the Millencolin stage before I moved away from that. I went into film making and starting with a series of surfing movies. The main inspiration was the No Friends bodyboarding movement as their filming and editing was much more progressive than surfing videos.

Who/What inspired you to begin shooting images?
When I was finishing high school it was just as the digital video camera market was about to explode. I was surfing almost every day in pretty crappy waves where my family finally settled in a coastal suburb of Adelaide in South Australia and I was looking to get away and just surf. My friends were spending all their money at the bars on Friday and Saturday nights while I was at home watching surfing videos, rewinding the VHS tapes, and watching it start to finish again, dubbing the sound tracks to cassettes and listening in the car.

When I wasn’t watching videos I had the visuals running through my mind, trying to emulate the perfect turn or the perfect barrel fade just mind surfing all day. I started traveling and after a few trips of amazing waves I thought of capturing it, editing each trip throughout the year to sell and pay for the next trip.

It was a pretty simple business plan, and about a year later as my film was ready to hit the market the industry exploded and shops went from 4–5 videos a year to that many in a month, and I looked for other avenues to document what I was doing.

Tell us about your recent work, The Underwater Project…
At the time of making my own surfing videos I was watching a lot of other videos to see what’s happening in the industry; and after a while it all started to look the same. The locations and people changed, as did the waves, but the style didn’t really change. I remember the first board camera surfing footage I saw and went nuts, started me on a search to capture something different.

I tried a bunch of different shooting styles, from board cam to shoulder cam to holding the camera and shooting back towards myself, but the only images that resounded with me from these tests were the ones of either myself or people wiping out underwater. The way the waves were thrashing them and passing over them left me wondering how to capture this better, which led to getting off the board and trying still photography, and eventually away from surfing to focus on swimmers.

It’s amazing to see how people interact with waves through the seasonal changes, from summer where it’s all boardshorts and bikinis to winter where it’s wetsuits and surfboards, although the images of people swimming stand out the most to me.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I’ve been to Fiji a few times now, after dropping out of University I was looking for a way to break into the documentary photography field and wanted to get back to basics and live with a family on an island without electricity or cars or any Western need other than shelter and food and education. The second day after landing in Nadi, I stumbled into a village while they were in church and was treated like a VIP with a translator and a girl to fan me down from the 40 degree heat, and stayed in their village for a few weeks. They still had electricity and a TV and a few modern conveniences, and wanting to find a more remote village they sent me to an outer island which was just what I was looking for, no roads, no electricity, just family and genuine interactions. I try and go back about twice a year, with no real plans just to spend time with them and see how they have changed since the last trip.

Who/what inspires you?It’s a broad statement but anyone who is progressing in what they want to do inspires me, it could be a business man wearing shoes and a suit every day but making the way up the ranks or an artist being able to pay bills through their art, basically people dedicating their time and hearts to whatever they’re passionate about and succeeding gets me stoked.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Just to keep the faith and to go with it. Generally it’ll work itself out, especially with stupid things like money. The start of each year is always slow for assignments with me and I get nervous wondering if the phone will ring and looking for a job, but after three years of just going with it, it always seems to work out.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
I don’t think the word ‘regret’ is conducive. It closes it off, and doesn’t allow for anything to be learned or gained from the situation. However, there’s a number of things I look back and have learned from… so I guess that’s the same thing.

The desktop image on my laptop is of a man I spoke with in Jakarta in early 2009. I was working on an urban based poverty documentary and after jumping through hoops to get an interview with English speaking academics, I met Tono on a street corner who said he could take me through the train tracks and talk with the people living there, most importantly with respect. As a tall white guy with a camera and stupid hair doing it by myself wouldn’t end pleasantly, let alone the interviews wouldn’t be genuine.

I met a man who had been living on the tracks for 3 years collecting plastic to recycle and send money to his family in their village about 6 hours from Jakarta. His story was just what I was looking for, and personally made the trip with the back story leading up to meeting him, but through all my notes and video footage and voice recordings I never asked for his name. Looking at his photo every time I turn the computer on reminds me to not only connect with people, but to remember their name.

What are you most proud of?
I’m most proud of my friends, family, and my girlfriend. Having travelled a fair bit and met a whole bunch of people it’s pretty cool to know I can pick up the phone and talk to them as if I saw them yesterday – even if it’s been years.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing started as an obsession, a way to push myself and a purpose to keep fit and maintain a high level of self awareness. I used to give everything to waves, be it my time or my mental focus, which at the time was everything I cared about. A side result to this was if the waves were bad I didn’t have anything else to turn to.

Now that I’m shooting and being in the ocean a lot more than surfing, I appreciate what surfing has given me — the wave awareness and the sublime feeling of being immersed in a greater entity than yourself. The ocean has provided for me and affected me in ways I can’t describe. It’s something that I know I’ll be involved in and hopefully progressing with until the day I die.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Knowing that something I care about has had a positive impact on others. At the moment it’s through photography and film, seeing my work bring positive change to people is amazing.
Happiness will always be an evolving thing, if I can stay on the positive side of life and remain open to change and opportunities that emerge I think that happiness will follow.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I worked on a longboarding film a few years ago with a group of ten surfers, ranging from 12 years old to 60 years old. I was primarily shooting fisheye from the water so I had to be close, and I learned a lot.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I don’t have a favourite board. In Sydney I could easily ride an SUP or foam soft top, or a bodyboard, or bodysurf. It really depends how I feel at the time and what the waves are like. When I’m back home in Port Lincoln (where I moved a few years after school) there’s a number of shallow reefs that we know of, which are super hard to ride a surfboard but are perfect for a bodyboard, barrel to airbowl. Then usually around the corner are perfect points for a longboard, with a beach break on the inside, you can literally take every board you own and ride them all in the same day on waves that suit their shape.

What’s your favorite meal?
Can’t go past muesli, banana and yoghurt.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I’m in the final edit of the first Ocean short film so it’s a mix of post rock and ambience, from Explosions in the Sky to Sleepmakeswaves, also after seeing M83 live last week they’re making a regular appearance as well.

What are you most grateful for?
Similar to what I’m most proud of, friends, family and loved ones. To have a connection with another person that strips away the walls of hesitation or uncertainty and have it returned is the greatest feeling I’ve ever had.

What’s next for Mark Tipple?
I’m currently hiding in my studio with the first batch of books coming out of the printer, last week I posted a blog and Facebook updates about a handmade book of the Underwater Project that took off, I had orders within minutes of it going live. I hadn’t really thought about how long each book would take me, but stoked I limited it to 250 copies. There’s still a few left to order, so I’m stocking up on paper and ink for when they come through.

I’m also working on a series of short films about people who have based their lifestyles around the ocean. From surfers to lifeguards to photographers and marine biologists etc I’m intrigued to find out what the ocean means to them, and how their lifestyle has evolved through their interaction with the ocean.

Find out more about Mark Tipple and  “The Underwater Project” here. All photos are © Mark Tipple.

through watching them surf and interacting with the waves. On the trip was Sage Joske, who shapes Valla surfboards with his father Paul. He brought a quiver of 10 boards, a mix of fishes, guns, logs and an alaia, spending two weeks shooting with him opened my eyes to riding the craft that suits the waves, and not following what everyone else does.

Who: Mollusk Surf Shop: Venice. One of two locations (the other in San Francisco), Mollusk has been in business since 2007. This is not another hipster boutique, but an honest-to-goodness surf shop.

What: You can find longboards, fish, hulls, eggs, and more by local shapers such as Scott Anderson, Brian Hilbers, Klaus Jones, as well as such notables as Gary Hanel, Greg Liddle, Marc Andreini, John Wesley, and The Campbell Brothers. They carry an extensive line of their own clothing, shoes, and hats. Check out their DVD collection, too. How: Mollusk works with local craftspeople to help support their local community. The store is an expression of what they represent: authenticity in surfing.Trivia: Lately they’ve become a music venue of sorts, hosting notable musicians such as Jackson Browne. Where: 1600 Pacific Avenue Venice, CA 90291. Telephone (310) 396‑1969. Website: mollusksurfshop.com. Johnny Goss, Store Manager.

Israel Preciado is a talented surfer from Mexico. Israel stands out for his soulful longboard surfing in a region filled mostly with shortboarders. We spoke with him to learn more about his life and inspirations.

What was your life like growing up?
Unfortunately, no soccer moms in mini vans drove us to the surf – that’s for sure. We were just a bunch of scrawny kids hitchhiking to the breaks and asking friends or tourists to let us borrow their boards. Although there was no money growing up, I was blessed to be raised near the beach, so when I had time between school and work I would go and look for waves. If it was flat then I’d go fishing or diving with my friends just for the fun of it and to make some extra money for school. Being in the ocean was like my escape from the other harsh things in my life that I had to deal with everyday. Nowadays it’s still the place where I go to find happiness and peace of mind.

Tell us about your first surfboard?
As a kid, I didn’t have a board of my own. I was always borrowing different boards. This was fun because I had to always adjust to different styles of surfboards and surfing. My first board was found by two of my friends during a big north swell, each found half on two different beaches. They knew I needed a board and I would take anything. It was a 9’0″ TDK high performance. Really thin, even though it was in 2 pieces it looked brand new, especially to me. I patched and re-broke that board so many times that it became too heavy to carry home, so I would bury it in the sand or hide it the bushes at the end of the day. I rode that board for quite some time.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a board?
It was a crazy mix of feelings like an excitement-nervous-freedom. It was a while ago, but I think that was more or less how I felt!

Who did you look up to when you were a grom?
I looked up to all of my good friends. Josue Villegas, he taught me about tides, swell direction, swell periods, and wind direction. He would ride anything and everything and he still does! I would always borrow his boards or sometimes take them without him seeing me. I’m sure he was sick of me!

Diego Cadena, I always liked his style. He was ripping then and nowadays he just kills it, whether he is surfing 2 foot mush to pounding heavy barreling waves, he’s always both smooth and explosive short boarding. Tzahui Poo, is a hyper-energetic anarchist who made sure we surfed even though we had no boards, no food or bus fare. He taught me that with a little creativity and a lot of heart anything is possible. Gerry Lopez, best style ever and a really nice person. Then there’s Joel Tudor. I never met him in person but I used to watch him in movies or see him in longboard magazines. Enough has been said about him. His dad taught me how to cross step when he came to surf Punta de Mita – muchas gracias!

Tell us about the longboard scene in Mexico…
There is way more shortboarding happening here in Mexico even though there are amazing longboard waves along our coastline. All the sponsors are focused on shortboarding so naturally most of the longboarders gravitated towards high performance. There are some great longboarders throughout Mexico. Guys are charging huge Puerto Escondido or other great waves but with a high performance approach. In the past few years it has started to change. Surfers are starting to ride different types of boards: single fins, retro fishes, quads etc, which I like because it means I’m not the only one riding “weird” boards. There are a handful of people I know that are introducing different kind of surfboard shapes and little by little, the locals and tourists are being influenced by it. It’s nice to see Mexican surf culture maturing and diversifying a bit.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Amazing India in all its glory. It taught me that living in a tiny town called Sayulita on the central coast of Mexico with a healthy dose of warm waves, friends, boards and cold Pacificos is a blessed life. And that camels are only for those with fleshy thighs and flexible hips! Another place that stands out is California, being a longboarder, it was great for me to have the chance to visit and surf those fun longboard waves, be a part of the whole longboard culture. It was just really fun and educational for me to watch those guys riding their logs properly and all those different crazy board designs that are out there. And ”In-N-Out” makes the best cheeseburgers ever!

Who/what inspires you?
My grandfather for his work ethic. My buddy, Jimmy Chin, for his inhuman athletic ability sustained on Italian salami and gummy bears and the fact that no matter the size or condition of the waves he is always stoked and smiling. My friend, Ed Fladung, whose surf blog, Quality Peoples always shows a fresh and inspiring perspective on surf, photography and life in general. My compadre, Eric Obre, who got me in to riding single fin logs and is always filling me in on whats new to ride in alternative boards. He has a great knowledge of boards and a really funny French sense of humor. He always let me rides his heavy Tylers when I visit him. And finally, my friend, Luc Goineau, for living every male surfer’s dream.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To be grateful.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No regrets, what would be the point?

What are you most proud of?
While in India, I got many compliments on my funny wide mustache, so I’m pretty proud of it!

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?

“I can’t imagine life without surfing – it has completely changed my life in such a positive way. Because of surfing I have met some of my best friends. It has been a window of opportunity to travel the world seeing amazing things and meeting incredible people, some of which I would never have experienced otherwise. Surfing keeps me in the moment. When I am surfing, I have no worries, no expectations, no fears – just pure bliss.”

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Eating really yummy food after surfing fun waves with really good friends

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Those who are surfing all types of boards and waves pushing the limits of our sport with or without stickers on their surfboards. They are still using their creativity and imagination to find different and new ways to express themselves.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
If I am surfing a nice perfect waist to chest high wave that we have in this area, any of my Bing logs work awesome – especially my Bing Elevator 9’4″. But I also have sooo much fun with a Liddle or a Mini-Simmons, too. Once it gets a bit juicer, a Bonzer or a ”McThruster” is a good call. I learned this American saying: ”The right tool for the job.” I just really like to try different boards depending on the conditions. It is just more fun, challenging, and exciting this way. I can draw different lines and approach the waves with a different perspective instead of riding the same board all the time.

But, at the end of the day, my heart will always be on a single fin log. Besides the many pointbreaks we have in the Sayulita area, there is one place 300+ km south from Puerto Vallarta in the state of Michoacan that has one of my favorite long lefthanders!

What’s your favorite meal?
Chicken soup and Tacos de Asada

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Calexico, The Killigans, Black Keys, and Vicente Fernandez just to name a few.

What causes/organizations do you support?
PEACE.

What are you most grateful for?
My health. Without it, I wouldn’t be able to live to the fullest

What’s next Israel Preciado?
I want to keep surfing as much as possible and try different board designs. I’m working on my surf instruction and guided surf tours called Surf In Mexico throughout the country and I’m looking forward to continuing my relationship with Quality Peoples, I’m one of their models / brand ambassadors and I’d like to see where that leads. I’m also talking with Bing Surfboardsabout possible ways to collaborate together, I love their boards.

The future is wide open.

Photography by Ed Fladung. Learn more about Ed here.

John Wesley is a talented young surfer/shaper from Dana Point, California. Mentored by Terry Martin and getting his inspiration from such surfing icons as Bob McTavish and Nat Young, John is poised to become the next big thing. We spoke with John to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
I had a great childhood growing up between Mission Viejo and Dana Point Ca. When I was growing up I was super competitive with everything I did, and was fortunate to have a supportive family behind me. I started surfing when I was eight years old, and would beg my mom to take me down to the beach. In middle school I was a total rascal and got in a ton of trouble for messing around in class. But it was the first time I went to school with other kids who surfed, and occasionally before school we would ride the city bus all the way down to the beach before school. The first time I ordered a custom board, a 5’0” yellow keel fin fish by Midget Smith. That was a fun time and I got to surf a lot more. By the time high school came around, I was really amped on competitive surfing and was doing contests almost every weekend.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first board when I was 8 yrs old and it was a 6’10” six-channel, semi-gun thruster shaped by Rick Rock. My dad picked it up at a garage sale for me for $25! I was stoked and still have it to this day and ride it every once in a while, it actually goes pretty good in solid waves.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I don’t really remember, but about a week later I surfed somewhere in San Clemente for the first time and got caught in a rip current and the lifeguard had to save me. (laughs)

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My friends and I were really into Donovan and Rob Machado from watching the “Drive Thru’s” because that style was epic as well as both Phil Edwards and Mike Hynson in all the Bruce Brown classics.

Who/What inspired you to begin shaping?
I was always amped on how surfboards were made, and thought it was some kind of mystical thing (laughs). My good friend Dodge Weirath started shaping a few boards in his garage and I said that I didn’t think I would ever be able to shape but that I’d be willing to learn to glass just so we can keep making boards for ourselves. I then went over to Terry Martin’s house once a week to learn how to shape better, more consistent boards. From Terry, I started shaping for Robbie Kegel for a few years and had the opportunity to travel to Japan, Australia, the East Coast, and Hawaii. And that’s when I realized where I wanted to take my shapes.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
That’s really tough because I have great memories and experiences from all over. I would have to narrow it down to Japan and Europe. Japan, because it was an absolute culture shock. It truly amazed me everyday, the food was spectacular, the hospitality was unbelievable, it was like a whole new world to me, and running around Roppongi club central all night blows any spot in theUS away! Also Europe in the early summer really is one of my favorite parts of the world. Specifically the Basque Country, the bigger open waves really suit my style of surfing, the food and style of living and moving around really attracts me as well as how rad all the towns look and history behind them.

Who/what inspires you?
The list of people and things that inspire me is endless. As far as surfing goes, pretty much my total inspiration is Bob McTavish, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch, and Ted Spencer. The way they changed surfing and board design forever. Mark Andreini and Kirk Putnam because we got to talk boards in my booth at Sacred Craft. Michael Peterson and currently Joel Tudor because without him going for it and pushing long boarding, I wouldn’t be shaping boards today. Outside of surfing, a few key individuals who have an open mind and have worked really hard to make something out of nothing.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Tough question. I would have to say that most important thing I’ve learned is that you can truly be and do anything you want in your life, as long as you’re really willing to work your hardest and be pushed to your limit of almost failure.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
(laughs) Yeah, I have some things in my personal life and situations I wish that I would’ve handled differently but I wouldn’t change them, because my mistakes have made me into the person I am today and I’m proud of what kind of person I’m becoming.

What are you most proud of?
Coming from just another kid out in the water to be able to break out and continue to carve a niche for myself.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing holds complete relief and enjoyment for me. I’m thankful I’m so close to surfing but at the same time there’s no pressure on me – its not my job, there’s no people to impress or photographers I need to show off for. I only need to paddle out and to have fun and wash the day off. Surfing has also changed my life in almost every way, right down to the core. Without surfing, I guess I would be living in a dorm, going to college, worrying about what I’m going to do when I get to the real world, like so many of my peers. I’m thankful for everything I’ve been able to experience due to surfing and all the places across the world I’ve seen.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
It’s pretty simple: shaping, surfing, and the community within it.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Jeff McCallum, Joel Tudor, Matt Chojnaki, and Dave Allee.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
My favorite board right now is this 9’0” Cali 66 pintail. It’s really foiled, the vee just right, and it trims out and hits the lip just right. My favorite spot is California on a nice summer day with all my friends and a good south swell going left at Four Doors (San O). I also really love Lowers, Cotes de Basques Biarritz, and the Pass Byron Bay is just magical.

What’s your favorite meal?
I really like poke or pad Thai and a good drink.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
(Laughs) Wiz Khalifa , Big Sean, any Kanye West, Meek Mill , Wale, and Drake. They get me amped and motivated cause they’re about being positive and working hard and being close with their family and team.

What are you most grateful for?
First, I’m most grateful for my family and everything I’ve been able to experience in the last few years. All the insane places surfing has gotten me, and all the people who have picked up my boards. Those are the people I work for and keep pushing forward trying to always deliver the best boards I can possibly make. So thanks! And of course my small group of friends, Alex Swanson and Erica Burtrum at Ten Piggies Over, Greg Swanson, Jake Zylstra, Mitch Hill, Shaun Peterson and all the guys at Waterman’s, Beamer Wilkins, Mitchiaki of Amsterdam wetsuits and many other people who have continued helping me along the way.

What’s next for John Wesley?
Some collaborations I’m working on are with some rad companies, working on putting together aJW showroom/store, and hopefully a trip to Europe in the summer to shape out there. As long as my friends and I keep checking off goals, 2012 is going to be a great year.

Find out more about John Wesley and his surfboard designs here. John Wesley surfboards can be custom ordered or purchased at Mollusk Surf Shop. Photography by Alex Swanson.

Lauren Hill, a Florida native now living in Byron Bay, is an environmental advocate, writer, and film-maker. She is the creator of 31 Days /31 Ways, a short-film series, and was involved with the Transparensea Voyage. We spoke with Lauren to learn more about her full and fascinating life.

What was your childhood like?
Mostly peaceful and nourishing. I grew up on Anastasia Island, a barrier island of Northern Florida. Naturally, the beach and being in the water was a constant. Until I went to university I’d never lived further than walking distance from the ocean.

I was raised mostly by my single mom, who was working two or three jobs at a time for most of my life. Instead of paying for a babysitter to watch me after elementary school my mom just let me go to gymnastics. I would end up spending 4 or 5 hours 5 days a week at the gymnastics center until she picked me up after work.

Being an only child with a working mom, I learned to look after myself from an early age. When I wasn’t at the beach I was delving into poetry, music, books and crafting.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I didn’t try stand-up surfing until I was 13, even though I grew up in the ocean and with surf culture around me. I started having dreams about riding waves and I just couldn’t stop thinking about it. So I taught myself with the encouragement of friends on my dad’s faded 7’6 yellow single fin from Hawaii.

Gymnastics gave me a solid foundation for strength and balance, so I picked up the basics of surfing quickly and got my first surfboard a month or so later: a brand new 9’6 Claude Codgen longboard with a cloth inlay of citrus fruits on the nose. I have no idea why I picked it, but I imagine that I probably just thought it looked cool. In retrospect, it really didn’t.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I remember it so clearly. Paddling out on a longboard for the first time, I was giddy and nervous and excited. The surf was typically tiny, the wind slightly onshore and there were big, scattered cumulous clouds in the sky.

And when I stood up, the overriding emotion was familiarity. It felt familiar and right. Like what I was supposed to be doing.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Poets, teachers and activists: Kahlil Gibran, Alice Walker, Oprah, Mr. Fecteau, and John Lennon.

And I remember really admiring this girl who was a bit older than me named Kris who played basketball as the only girl and held her own. She was so cool.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Byron Bay. There are many reasons why, but for a girl who grew up on the straight beach breaks of Florida, sand points are reason enough. And not just one, but many. And they each cater to different crafts. And the water is clean and clear and “turquoisy.” It is surfing paradise for me (and a whole lot of others).

Who/what inspires you?
I’m really inspired by humans trying to right the wrongs they see in the world through non-violent, compassionate means like Gloria Steinem, Alice Walker, and Dave Rastovich, for example. And I always feel inspired when I read a good Tom Robbins novel.

A lot of my motivation now stems from mom my, I think, having seen her struggle to make it on her own, having had to sacrifice so much of her youth to raise me and remain in a monotonous, less than fulfilling, but steady job to pay the bills. She’s always been supportive of anything that I’ve ever shown interest in. And I can’t even count the number of days she spent with me at surf contests as a grom, feeding all of my friends.

Seeing the hardships she endured inspires me to take more fun risks in life.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The way I do anything is the way I do everything.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Regrets are tough to hold because I live an incredibly blessed life. If any minute decisions along the way were made differently then circumstances might not be what they now are.

What are you most proud of?
I can’t really think of anything that I’m more proud of than another. Everything has value. I am just filled with gratitude for this life.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Pretty simple things, mostly. It depends on the day, but these seem to consistently conjure joy: long, tiny logging waves, sharing food with friends, days without schedules, gardening, swimming underwater, or a good laugh with my man-friend.

I guess in a general sense, spaciousness makes me really happy. Not rushing, not forcing. Balance and space.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Culturally speaking, surfing seems like it is expanding in so many directions by so many different characters that it’s difficult to isolate just a couple. More people than ever have the opportunity to shape the path for surfing into what they imagine it to be, which makes our culture more diverse and more interesting.

Personally, I like to see people who aren’t taking surfing too seriously shaping the path. And people that are channeling their passion for surfing into a motivating force for serving something beyond them. Like Natalie Fox, who founded an organization called Women for Whales not long after learning to surf. Her love of being in the ocean informed her sense of responsibility for it. Stories like Natalie’s are a testament to the power of surfing.

What is currently your favorite board?
9’2 Bing Silver Spoon for logging and 5’6 Bing Dharma for cruising.

Your favorite surfspot?
It depends on all of the conspiring factors. I love surfing The Pass. It is an amazing wave and the crowd always offers entertainment, too.

What is your relationship with Bing Surfboards like?
My relationship with Bing Surfboards is a blessing. I started working with Bing almost a year ago. Prior to that I’d been riding the same longboard for about 8 years. It was my only longboard. It was also delaminated and waterlogged, so when I came to Aus two years ago I wanted to have a board that was going to survive the trip. A friend, legendary Terry Nails, wrangled a log for me to bring to Aus (at this point I was a recent college graduate and seriously underemployed). Terry also ended up introducing me to Margaret at Bing.

Margaret and I kept running into each other and started chatting about my aspirations for surfing, travel, and environmental activism. With the help of a recommendation from my dear cosmic friend Christopher Del Moro, Margaret and Matt Calvani welcomed me to the Bing team. Now I get to ride Matt’s stunningly beautiful crafts all the time.

Florida doesn’t really have the same quality of logging culture as California does. It’s probably appropriate, since we also don’t have pointbreaks. Anyway, Bings were basically the holy grail of beautiful surfing crafts as a girl growing up in Florida, where people don’t really make traditionally oriented, heavy logs like Bing does. To now be able to test out such quality crafts on the kind of waves where they belong is pretty much ultimate dreaminess.

What’s your favorite meal?
Any amalgamation of organic veggies from my backyard is pretty amazing.

Actually, the truest answer is a ‘Wailer’ burrito from my favorite restaurant in the world, Stir It Up in St. Augustine. It is a brick of a burrito with beans and rice, avocado, salsa, and hummus. And sweet lemony iced tea to drink. I am salivating.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Lately I’ve just been listening to the not so gentle symphony of cicadas, frogs and kookaburras here in Australia.

Sometimes I also really enjoy the radio.

What are you most grateful for?
Being alive, healthy and capable of doing this incredible thing called surfing. The unwavering support of my mom. The opportunity to get a college education. My amazing, beautiful, loving partner Dave that teaches me so much. The magical, mysterious nature of life.

What causes/organizations do you support?
I’m passionate about eradicating pollution. From an ecological perspective, this means realizing, educating, and working to lessen behaviors that threaten the ecology of the planet, including all places, processes and biodiversity on Earth. From a feminist perspective, this means eradicating the mental, physical, and ideological “pollution” that a patriarchal system creates as it divides through oppression via race, class, gender, sexual preference, etc.

So, I support environmental, feminist or ecofeminist organizations like: Surfers for Cetaceans, Women for Whales, Vday (a global movement to end violence against women), Northern Rivers Wildlife Carers and The Humane Society.

What’s next Lauren Hill?
Lots of surfing on the blessed sand points of Northern New South Wales. Attending the International Whaling Commission meeting in Panama in July with other concerned surfers.

I’ve just joined the Billabong team, so I’m stoked to have some support in conjuring new projects and explorations.

I’m currently dreaming up a surfing/activism organization called Sea Kin to share stories from within ocean culture and to create opportunities for activated camaraderie. Check it out soon at TheSeaKin.com

And I’m really looking forward to the strawberries fruiting in our garden.

Photo credits: 1. Dane Peterson, 2. Hilton Dawe, 3. Haley Welsh, 4.,& 5. Hilton Dawe. To learn more about Lauren Hill, click here. 

Andy Davis is an internationally recognized California surfer/artist. His casual and stylized paintings have graced clothing, galleries, retail stores, magazines, and hotels. His recent collaboration with Billabong has set him on a new path. We met with Andy to find out more.

What was growing up like?
I grew up between Orange County and down here (Leucadia, CA). My parents split when I was pretty young when I was in the 3rd grade. We were living in Fullerton at the time and my mom’s sister lived in Escondido. So my mom packed up, and moved my brother and I about 25 minutes inland from here. I played a lot of sports when I was a kid – soccer, basketball, baseball – all that kind of stuff. I grew up watching cartoons and I was super into pop culture as a kid. I would go into arcades and play air hockey. All that stuff you do in the 70s as a kid.

What were you early experiences in the ocean?
Got into boogie boarding and body surfing as a kid. I was trying to stand up on my boogie board when I was young, around the 4th grade. My dad would always take us to Laguna – Oak Street and Brooks Street. In the summertime, we would all go to the beach and hang out there. I learned to properly surf on a board in the 8th grade in La Jolla.

What got you into surfing?
I got interested in surfing from all of the magazines. I’d look at all the pictures and stuff. Back then, there weren’t any videos. Sure you could catch a surf movie when they came to town, but I was pretty young and I lived inland. The first one I saw, I was in high school. As far as the magazines, it wasn’t about all of the exotic locations, it was really about the people. It went from the 70s dropout culture to super-pro in the 80s. I was kinda in that gap. I remember seeing pictures of Larry Bertlemann, Buttons, Mark Richards, and Cheyne Horan.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a board?
Oh yeah! Standing up on my boogie board. When I first stood up, it was going so much faster. It was a whole new challenge. It was so much fun. Even with playing sports as a kid, surfing by far was the hardest. Every wave is different and it wasn’t something that you could easily get wired. Just watching your friends and laughing – the enjoyment of it all. It seemed all so innocent in the beginning.

Do you remember you first board?
Yeah! It was a Randy Lewis quad. I got it when I was 14. I was thrilled – one of the most exciting parts was actually going to the shop, picking it off the rack, picking up in my arms, and taking it home and waxing it. It was probably one of the best feelings I had had in my life at that age. It was a total spark.

When did you first get into art?
Since I was little. I just always drew. It was a way of documenting what was going on. As soon as I was done doing something, I would want to go home and draw it. Whether it was soccer or all of the stuff I was doing – like cartoons and stuff I was watching. It has always been an outlet for me ever since I was little. So when surfing came into my life, it was all I wanted to do. Not living at the beach, I would spend a lot of time drawing pictures of surfing, things I wanted to do, making up my own trunks and wetsuits, and creating my own kind of brand.

Did you skateboard?
I would go out and skate and pretend I was surfing. I didn’t have a car or live at the beach, so I spent a lot of time skateboarding. Skating, daydreaming, and drawing – that’s definitely where it all came from.

What were you hoping to capture with your art?
I wasn’t trying to capture anything. It was more of an outlet and I just wanted to pour it all out somehow. I didn’t do well in school and I really wasn’t interested. I had trouble paying attention, so all the thoughts that were going on in my head were all around music, skating, surfing, girls, and all that kind of stuff.

What’s your process for doing your art?
Most of the time I just doodle. I’m either scribbling on something or kind of writing down ideas. Like if I had a show or a project I have to do. My process is very organic – loose and spontaneous. I’m definitely not a fundamentalist and I don’t have a routine – I just sort of go with it naturally. I try not to fight it and I just make sure I hit the deadline on time. Somehow it all works out.

Who or what inspires you?
I admire anybody who has the passion to do things that make them happier and that challenge them to help them grow and learn, so that they can evolve and be the best they can be, whether it is someone who is a gardener or someone who’s a mechanic or even a chef.

What are you most proud of?
I’m most proud of being a dad. And trying to be a good husband. I could never fathom how it much it means, and how important it is, and how life-changing it is. I now have to be more patient and more responsible. It has made me really slow down, not be so selfish, and to be more present. I look at things now with a totally different perspective. Every day is a new adventure.

I’m grateful for being here this long and for all that I have thus far. I’m pretty blessed and fortunate to have to be able to live the life I have led. And I’ve been pretty lucky to do what I love to do for the past 15 years.

Did you always think you would have this kind of life?
I’ve never had a master plan. I was always too busy daydreaming. I don’t do well trying to focus. Even in surfing, sometimes it’s better when you don’t think. Some people can force their way through things and that’s how they learn. For me, it’s a “less is more” theory.

What do you love about surfing?
So many things! The natural element is the most wonderful thing for me. If the ocean didn’t exist, there wouldn’t be surfing – just the fact that it exists! It’s there for people to learn from and to have adventures and experiences. There are no rules. It is so vast that you can never know everything about it. It’s just a wonder.

Every time you go out it’s a different experience. If it is just getting your feet under water, salt on your face, swimming in it or diving in it, catching a wave, sailing on it – whatever. It’s one of those things that is so difficult to put into words.

For me, having to have most of my life being in or around the ocean is a pretty sacred thing. And especially living around here – it is so hard because it’s so crowded – it’s easy to get jaded. Or start to become frustrated. But then again, you can go out and have the most blissful experience. Surfing is a big part of my life. And couldn’t fathom a life without it.

What is the most memorable place you have traveled to?
New Zealand. There is something about the energy there. It felt like… this is how life is supposed to be lived. It was really simple and slow paced. It gave me a feeling about how California must have been like in the 60s! It is so very vast, and very raw with congregations of people who have set up shop. It is visually stunning and probably the greenest place I’ve ever been. Most places I’ve gone to I’ve wanted to get back home. But there, I was like – “I need to stay here.”

There are places in Hawaii that are really special and sacred. And that I feel I have to tread lightly at. New Zealand isn’t like that. Maybe in some places where the Maori culture is. The vibe in New Zealand just wasn’t heavy like that. I felt very welcomed there. My wife and I have visited there at separate times. And my brother lives there now and he’s rising a young family. My wife and I are really wanting to live there and set up shop there. New Zealand is calling to us.

Who are some surfers you admire?
My favorite surfer right now is Ryan Burch. I think he is doing things that haven’t been done yet. He’s like a modern Machado – he’s insane. Being a tall, lanky goofy-foot myself, I really enjoy watching him surf.

I think Alex Knost is one of the most gifted surfers we’ve ever seen. He has a total different approach and I think he’s got crazy balance. What he does and what he does it on – no one can surf like him. Nobody in the world – not even Kelly.

I love the way Tyler (Warren) surfs. He grew up with the whole Hobie crew, he’s become a great shaper, comes from a great family, and can surf all kinds of equipment. I think he has a lot to offer.

Liz Clark. For everything she’s doing – exploring the ocean as a young woman. The challenges that she faces are mind-blowing. And she takes it all with style, and is such a great human. There just isn’t a lot of people like her on the planet. What she is doing for women and surfing is so great.

Bethany Hamilton. Her story is one of courage and for her to be able to overcome the obstacles she has had to face in life, and to be able to do it on a level that most people can only dream about. That stuff is just crazy.

Where do you get the inspiration for your art? The lines and colors…
A lot of that is from cartoons! I just loved them. Cartoons like Looney Tunes, Hanna-Barbera, and Dr. Seuss. All the fun stuff before it became too violent. I mean there was always violence, but it was this crazy, unbelievable “drop a mallet on your head” violence. It wasn’t serious or political. All that stuff from the 60s and the 70s – I loved it.

A lot of the way surf companies have portrayed art has been so shitty. I want to do art that looks the way I see it. I want to see it in a surreal and dreamy way. I want to see people surf without logos all over their boards. I want to see it in these colors.

I basically took all of the stuff I have seen before and try to put it together in a new way where you might see a guy cranking a bottom turn but he doesn’t have a face! Or like these arms are like a bird – kind of like the way pelicans fly. When you think about a guy like Lopez surfs – he’s perfect – just like how a pelican flies.

How important is style?
To me, it’s way up there. I like people that have flow. People who have spent time understanding the culture. It can be someone who can make it look effortless or it can be someone who can look sketchy because they are pulling off something hard. It’s a blend. But I do think style is really important. Visually, it is one of the most important things to me.

What kind of board are you riding these days?
I just got a board from Tyler Warren. A little 5’2 – one of his Mini-Simmons-esque “bar of soaps.” I’ve been riding his boards for about the last six months. Prior to that, I had a Rich Pavel Speed Dialer. I like riding all kinds of boards. I haven’t ridden any “high performance” boards since I was 26 (Davis is 41). It’s been a long time. I just kind of ride things I get a lot of enjoyment out of.

What’s your favorite meal?
I don’t know about one particular meal, but my wife’s cooking is amazing. As a kid, I had such a poor diet – I was a junk food junkie. It was like all fast food. I changed my habits in my mid-twenties and I haven’t looked back. All our home-cooked meals are amazing. She puts a lot of love into it and she makes it with all fresh ingredients. The more she puts into it, the more we get out of it, for both my little boy and me. We’ll go out and eat and it’s just not as good!

What about music?
I couldn’t function without music. Every part of the day has to have a soundtrack. It’s like the ocean – I couldn’t imagine a world without music. I like all kinds of music – it’s a mood thing. Sometimes I like to listen to jazz, sometimes reggae, classic rock, blues – I have pretty eclectic taste.

What Golden Rule do you live by?
Balance. It keeps things in perspective. It’s knowing that it is okay to make mistakes and be frustrated. And to be able to cut that off, start over, and start fresh. Also to not take things for granted. I realize how lucky I am. My favorite thing everyday is going to bed with my family and waking up with my family. It’s the biggest thing for me.

What’s next for Andy Davis?
Today and tomorrow (laughs).

Find out more about Andy Davis and his artwork here and his collaboration with Billabong here.  Portrait by Glenn Sakamoto. All images courtesy of Andy Davis.

Christine Brailsford is a talented California artist and a surfer/shaper of Hawaiian paipos and handplanes. Practically raised in the surf, Christine’s imagination and background in art and design truly give her craft a unique look and style. We spoke with Christine to learn more.

What was it like growing up?
I loved to be outside. And I was fortunate to grow up around animals. I took care of my parents horses and garden. Like most kids, I had a huge imagination and would draw a lot.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
I aways wanted to do what my older brother, Andrew, did…he was my hero. He showed me how to skateboard and ride a bike.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My parents would bring us down to the beach in the summer. One of my fondest childhood memories is of my dad pushing me into waves on a bodyboard – I felt like I was flying. I always wanted to surf. I started standing up and surfing my boogie board in the whitewash. After begging my mom to let me surf, she enrolled me in a summer surf camp at the local YMCA when I was eleven. I was hooked. I put all of my saved money together and bought my first board (with
the help of my parents). It was a 6’8 round-pin thruster from the “Board Room” at Hansen’s surf shop.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I remember dragging one of those old, water-logged 8ft foam boards down to the Torrey Pines State Beach. I was too eager to wait for an instructor to take me out, so I paddled the thing out through the white wash.. turned it around, caught a wave, and stood up …stoked. I’ve been addicted ever since.

Where did you study art?
I studied at The Laguna College of Art and Design and received my BFA in illustration. This was in 2008. My focus there was on children’s books. Before that, I studied at Mira Costa College where I received my AA in art.

Tell us about the paipo and how did you start shaping them?
Not knowing anything about shaping, I this idea in my head to shape myself an alaia out of pine plywood. My shaping journey begins. I fully immersed myself into studying the ancient Hawaiians and their ancient forms of surfing. That’s when I came across the paipo. Paipo surfing, or belly boarding, was practiced amongst the commoners in ancient Hawaii.

I templated and shaped my own paipo, in the shape of a sun fish. I remember paddling it out at beach in Carlsbad. The first wave I caught was a little sectiony close-out. It was incredible… I had never experienced that kind of speed before.

Other than paipos, what else are you shaping?
I have been putting my focus into made hand-planes for body surfing. Hand-planes are a lot of fun and provide yet another way to experience wave riding. My focus is on flex and speed, much like a paipo, but in a more compact size.

Who/what inspires you?
My simple answer: God and nature.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
I have three: To be humble. To not be afraid to fail. And to never stop learning.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No, only lessons learnt.

What are you most proud of?
I don’t think of myself as a prideful person, but I am stoked my life and what is to come.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
“Surfing” is the epicenter of my life. It is were I find refuge, nature, God, and my closet friends. I can’t really say it changed my life, as much as it is why my life is.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My family, my friends, and my dogs.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Everyday surfers that continue to support shapers and the board makers that make hand-shaped boards.

What is your current surfing quiver?
5’1 mandala arc-swallowtail quad, 5’9 mandala stubbie single-fin, Christine Brailsford 4’0 paipo, ‘Sesame’ Whomp Handplane and a pair of fins:).

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Ravi Shankar, Panda Bear, Fleet Fox

What’s next for Christine Brailsford?
More shaping and surfing:)

Follow Christine’s progress at Whomp Handplanes and her art at her Tumblr feed and at her sitewww.christinebrailsford.com.

Photography credits are as follows: Photos 1 & 5. Tom Lareuf, 2. Kevin Roche. All other images provided by Christine Brailsford. 

Jed Noll is a talented California shaper whose name doesn’t easily escape the shadow cast by his father, big-wave pioneer Greg Noll. Setting up shop in San Clemente after years shaping with Pearson Arrow in Santa Cruz, Jed has carved out a reputation all for himself. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was it like growing up?
Growing up in Crescent City with a well-known father who is such a part of surfing history is probably different from what people might think. Surfing was pretty much non-existent to me when I was a young kid. Dad was a commercial fisherman and nobody really recognized my father as a surfer. I came from a town of 1500 and they just didn’t think too much about surfing. I did a lot of fishing, hunting, and motorcycle riding. It was a pretty simple, normal kind of kid life. As a family, we would drive down and visit Gumby (Pat Ryan) and Eddie Talbot at ET Surfboards to get some boards and then we would go surfing down at San Onofre.

Tell us what it was like being the son of Greg Noll.
The first time I realized that my dad had some connection to surfing, was the movie “Ride The Wild Surf” that showed on television. I remember watching that and seeing him surfing and he would go, “Oh, there’s Mickey”… “or look there’s Dad!” It was a Hollywood movie and he hated it. It wasn’t until I was about 12 or 13 that I really even began to have a concept of maybe some of his accomplishments.

Being in the surf industry now, I totally get why my Dad is so much a part of surfing culture. He tells a great story, there is no doubt about that. Even to this day I get a deeper understanding. Listen, I’ve heard the stories as many times as anybody! But I still listen to them because every time I hear them, it means something different to me as I’ve gone through life. In the beginning, the stories were just funny, exciting and off-the-wall.

As I listen to the stories today, I am paying more attention to the cultural aspects of them and how the stories relate to where we are today in surfing. It’s a common thread that started in the mid-sixties up until today. Things such as manufacturing, materials, and attitudes all helped forge the surf culture we have today and it is amazing to think that most of those things have remained the same.

Do you remember the first time you stood up on a board?
I do. It was at San Onofre. Somewhere between Old Man’s and Dog Patch. It was in early morning and I must have been 10 years old. The water was glassy, green, and overcast. It was low tide and it was a right. I remember my Dad and sister always telling me to get going at an angle, and turn hard, and to do all these things. But for that one wave, it all came together. I slid across that thing and it probably took about 6 or 7 tries to even get close to that one initial experience. It was the sensation of hearing the wind in your ears. I had a smile on my face for sure. I was elated that I had finally done it after everyone else had told me it was so great. Super excited at the glide – that’s what I remember most – the glide.

Who did you admire when you were younger?
My big deal was Potts (Martin Potter). He was the first guy I really felt attached to. As a kid, you are always interested in what’s new and cool and different. Seeing Potts surfing quad-type, trippy Blue Hawaii’s with flames on them, and him being a guy that was really aggressive – he was just someone who clicked for me.

When did you decide you wanted to shape surfboards?
12 or 13. My brother started shaping and he would hang out with Gumby down in Hermosa. He came back up North and built his own shaping room in Crescent City. His focus at the time was shortboards, so he asked my Dad to come down and shape a longboard. I watched the two of them shape this board and in that moment, I knew that this was it. I saw the foam fly and the stoke that the two of them had making this board. The process, the lingo – I was into the whole thing.

When I got to Pearson Arrow at age 18, I was green. I swept the floors and cleaned up the rooms. And I took every opportunity to learn everything about surfboard making from anybody I could. I was fortunate that all those guys were around and they were great. I spent about 4 to 5 years with them. I learned the most from my two professors: Bob Pearson, a contemporary shaper who was doing 2500 boards a year and from my Dad, an old school craftsman who was only doing 10 boards a year. They each shared with me a love for shaping that I will never forget.

What made you move down to San Clemente?
I was having a hard time getting the quality glassing I wanted up in Santa Cruz. Many of the guys who were good at it were all working in-house. They were busy doing their own boards so that when I dropped mine off, they ended up just sitting in the racks. So I started making some trips down here to The Waterman’s Guild from a tip from my Dad’s friend, Sonny Vardemann. I was traveling back and forth and it was then that I finally took a hard look at the numbers. Blanks, shipping, and resin — all were less expensive down here. The quality of work I received was better and the market is tremendously bigger. That’s when I decided to move down here.

What do you love about shaping?
To be honest, it’s the alone time (laughs). Especially if I can close the door and put some headphones on. With shaping, the better that you get at it and the longer that you do it, the less of a job it becomes and the more it becomes more second nature. It starts to free up your head space. I can be thinking about my family or anything I want to. It’s kinda like meditation.

What do you love about surfing?
It’s hard not to get a charge out of it. Getting sunburned and a feeling a little crispy with the sore shoulders – nothing helps me sleep better at night than that.

Who do feel is shaping the path of surfing today?
I tend to look to the past for people who have done great things. People like Paul Strauch comes to mind. A classic individual and a legend who is still a great influence on the community to this day. Tom Morey – I mean, he made the Boogie Board! He has always been innovative in his use of advanced materials. When it comes to contemporary guys, it would have to be Joel (Tudor) and Wingnut. They made the sport of longboarding pretty cool. And Kelly Slater, I mean the guy has won 10 World Championship titles…

 I am proud of my family – my wife and my little girl. It is a pretty awesome thing to bring life into this world. The best part about being a father is watching my child experience something for the first time. Like the time your kid tastes something new. It’s so much fun to watch them experience a strawberry or a macadamia nut for the first time. Recently I took my three-year old daughter on my back while surfing. We caught our first wave together. To hear the squeal – I mean, it was amazing!

What’s your favorite meal?
Oh, I’m a big fan of food! What immediately comes to mind is Southern Fried Chicken made in a skillet and home made potato salad, paired with a Newcastle. I usually eat clean and healthy – skinless chicken, fish, etc., but man, that’s good comfort food!

What kind of music do you listen to?
Everything. Everything from classical to jazz or anything that is on that day. Since I don’t have a long commute in the car, it’s when I shape that gives me the chance to listen to music. The kind of music has lot has to do with what kind of board I’m shaping. If it’s a true tri-fin it’s gonna have to be fast. And when it’s a classic three-stringer longboard, the music needs to be slower. Right now my channel on Pandora is Guns and Roses.

What Golden Rule do you live by?
Be honest and do what you say you are going to do. And if you are going to do something, do it the best that you can. Whether it is business or family, those rules thread through everything.

What is your favorite board at the moment?
It’s a 9’6” “Da Cat” model. Single fin, channels on the bottom, scoop deck – the whole deal. It was one of the 250 limited edition boards that were made at the time. I got it because it was a mistake or blem. After holding on to it for about two and a half years, I finally took it to Lowers on a Thanksgiving Day. It has all the bells and whistles and I just didn’t expect it to perform. But it worked really, really well.

What’s next for Jed Noll?
I’ve always been interested in using newer materials for building boards. After spending a lot of time and energy getting our retail space going, I want to focus on concepting new surfboard designs and integrating modern materials. I’m a huge fan of the Marko recycled foam concept with epoxy resins. And I’ve got some ideas in mind for boards from the transitional era – some flextail and Greenough concepts but using today’s modern materials. Should be interesting!

Find out more about Jed Noll and Noll Surfboards here. Principal photography courtesy Jed Noll. Additional photos by Glenn Sakamoto.

Jen Smith is a talented surfer raised in San Diego, CA. Brought up by supportive parents, Jen has lived an ideal Southern California beach lifestyle. But it was her hard work and ability that helped her earn several longboard world titles. We spoke with Jen to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I have great memories of my childhood and of growing up in San Diego. I’m blessed to have parents who were always loving and supportive and I have two older sisters, so I’ve always had someone to hang out with and take care of me.

I remember my mom taking me out on her boogie board or just swimming in the ocean, jumping over waves, and me being scared because I was so little. She would take me into what I felt was so far out, and that I was doing something I never could have on my own at the time. My dad is a surfer and would take us to the beach with him where my sisters and I would play on the sand and watch him surf or use one of his boards in the white water.

Neither of my sisters really stayed with surfing but we all used to do it when we were young. Up until the age of 9 my family lived in Claremont, which is 5 miles from the beach. Our house had a massive yard and we lived at the end of a cul-de-sac, so we had plenty of room to run around our yard and ride our bikes in the street. It was really an amazing way to grow up. We moved to Pacific Beach because it was a better neighborhood and my dad hated the power lines behind our house that buzzed 24 hours a day. The move was a big transition for everyone. We moved to a smaller house with much less space and a tiny yard in comparison to the old house.

My dad had opened a retail skateboard store in Pacific Beach called Soul Grind two years before and my mom would soon also trade in her swap meet business for a skate shop in San Diego. At this point, I was already hooked on surfing and living near the beach. This meant my sisters and I had more freedom to ride our bikes or walk the dogs farther from the house than before.

When I turned 12, my mom started letting me go surfing alone. Before I would go with my dad or she would take me and watch from the beach or go boogie boarding and it was not always easy to get everyone excited to go to the beach. This was a huge transition for me and a turning point in my surfing. I could skate to Soul Grind and surf the pier which was right out front. Not to mention Skip Frye’s shop and shaping room was on the same block so I would get to surf with him sometimes. I would see him walking up and down our block in his high top Converse and sweats (his shaping outfit) with one of those trash pickers and a bucket, cleaning up the sidewalk.

When I was about 14 or so, I got a brand new beach cruiser that I got with birthday money so I could ride around with some friends who loved in the neighborhood. We had sort of a beach cruiser bike gang (laughs). I put a surfboard rack on it which meant I could ride farther to surf more waves.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first board that actually belonged to me when I was 8. It was a custom Rusty (Preisendorfer) which I got to watch the “Big R” shape. What a spoiled little surfer girl, right? I sold it when I was a teenager to buy a new longboard. Not a smart move looking back.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I can’t actually remember. My parents say I was standing on a board on Mission Bay when I was 2. I remember one session when I was about 9. I was out with my dad and his brother at Crystal Pier on a glassy morning and paddled into one of the first set waves I had gotten without being pushed in. It was the best feeling dropping in hearing my Uncle hooting for me and having control of the board under my feet.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Well, being a short person as a child I had to look up to everyone if I wanted to look at them (laughs). I looked up to my dad of course, and I still do. He’s a great surfer and he still pushes me to surf better. I surf better when I surf with him than with most of my friends.

I’ve always looked up to Skip (Frye), he’s quiet and he rips with the smoothest style. There’s nothing like hearing him tell a story when he’s really into something – he lights up like a kid. Of course, I’ve always looked up to the female surfers who have influenced me and who were ripping all through the 60s through the 90s when I became aware of them. Mary Bagalso, Julie Cox, andKassia Meador were the three influential longboarders who took time to surf with me and take me on trips when I was 15 or so. I also had a Prue Jeffries Poster on my wall for years and I used to look at it and dream about being a pro surfer and a world champion.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
I think Morocco stands out the most to me. I was there in January of 2009 with the Roxy team. The swell peaked at 30 feet and I was sooo sick. I had the worst sinus infection and all I could do was watch these crazy waves breaking. I loved the landscape and weather which reminded me of Baja. The culture was like nothing I had ever seen. Women in dark head dresses with nothing but their eyes showing. Men walking down the street holding hands. Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten and of course, things like mint tea which I learned to make and I still make at home from time to time. I would love to go back there and surf and experience the culture again.

Who/what inspires you?
I draw inspiration every day from so many things. Old people who have lived and learned so many things. Crazy homeless people who say some radical stuff, sometimes things that make no sense and you wonder just what they are thinking. Children who skip and jump around for no apparent reason. A radical sunset, or a perfect, unridden peeler that has gotten past 100 people in the lineup.

One person who inspired me last weekend is Neil Norris. He went to school with my dad in San Diego in the 60’s then moved to Maui over 30 years ago. He has archived years of photos at his place in Maui and when he came to California for the 50 year anniversary MSA classic he brought over a photo of Dora at the same event in the 60’s. It’s such a cool photo and he was thoughtful enough to have it blown up and frame it so he could present it to the MSA club. Neil is a shaper and a good friend who is full of the Spirit. I’m looking forward to visiting him in Maui this year and surfing Honolua Bay for the first time.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
God is in control of everything. He holds the universe in the palm of His hand and He cares for each individual equally as he has made us all special and unique. He has blessed me with the gift of surfing and the opportunity to share it with people around the world. It’s up to each and every person to show love to others and it isn’t always easy. I’ve learned that this simple thing is hard at times, but the reward for showing love is greater than the reward of not showing love.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Well, I tend to start a project or get an idea and then not follow through with it. I would like to pick up some of the projects I have started and finish them.

What’s next for Jen Smith?
One project is my website jensmithsurfing.com. The other project is a surfboard I started shaping in San Diego 2 years ago. I made another board with a friend in England this summer which is being glassed right now. I can’t wait to see the final product.

Learn more about Jen Smith here. Surf photography by Myles McGuinness.

Dave Homcy is an accomplished filmmmaker based in Hawaii known for his work on Sliding Liberia. His recent film collaboration, Come Hell or High Water with Keith Malloy, celebrates the art of bodysurfing. We spoke with Dave to learn more about his life and inspiration.

What was your life like growing up?
Growing up in Florida, I felt like I was different from the average kid. My family and I would travel for three months every summer throughout the country up and down, which I believe gave me the travel bug at an early age. Where I grew up in South Florida, it was undeveloped, so for fun we would hunt, fish and surf in relatively uncrowded waves.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My first surfboard was given to me by Doc Paskowitz when I was ten. He happened to be in the area showing a surf film at Lake Worth High School where my father was a student activities director. After the film, Doc presented my father with a pink Morey Doyle surfboard and said “Take this board home and teach your son to surf”.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I remember when my father took me down to the Juno Pier with the surfboard from Doc. We went out and the surf was really small. He pushed me into a few waves, and after finally making my way to my feet, I realized that this was something I wanted to do for the rest of my life.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young man?
I looked up to my parents and grandfather. I looked up to my parents while we were on the road traveling. Showing my sister and I how to live simply out of a van and tent while adventuring to new places every year. My grandfather was an incredible musician, and I loved hearing his old time blues songs. As for surfing, I admired the time when surfing was starting to influence my life, guys like Buttons and Larry Bertlemann.

Where did your interest in photography come from? And film?
My interest in photography started with my father. He was a photographer and news reporter for the Air Force. He was stationed in Puerto Rico and I loved looking at the photos he took while he was there. On our road trips I would play around with our Canon AE1, but my real interest started when I took a photography class in eleventh grade. After I graduated high school, my interest in college was non-existent, so my father’s best friend was in the film business and took me under his wing. My first job with him was interviewing and filming the musician BB King at one of his concerts for the T.V. show PM Magazine. It was a great experience for me and I was hooked.

Who inspires you?
Vic Muniz, for his passion for life and art; My wife Crystal, for inspiring me to always have fun, and Sion Milosky for living a life taking care of others and living his dreams to the fullest. I always felt I was in good hands no matter what the situation; and my mother inspires me for becoming younger as she grows older. Doc Paskowitz for his passion to bring surfing to Israel and for his persistence in creating peace through surfing.

What inspires you?
The ocean inspires me because its always changing. Our garden, because we are able to feed ourselves and friends from it everyday. And shooting film because it’s more than ever an art form.

Tell us what you remember about your most memorable wave.
One of my most memorable waves or surf sessions was surfing “Macaroni’s” in Indo, under the full moon on my birthday during the first OP Boat Challenge.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
The greatest thing I have learned in life is to be honest.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No. Because I feel that where I’m at in my life is exactly where I want to be.

What are you most proud of?
Being able to turn my passion into a career.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My wife, Crystal.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Sion Milosky, Kohl Christensen, Kelly Slater, Dane Reynolds, Coco Ho, and Stef Gilmore

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite surfboard is my Travis Reynolds 9’3″ Single Fin and I love to surf it at Chuns Reef.

What’s your favorite meal?
Linguine with Red Clam sauce.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Whatever my wife puts on, mostly, Eddie Vedder, Iron and Wine, Nick Drake, Pink Floyd, White Buffalo, Jack Johnson, Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, Ben Harper, J Cole; among others.

What are you most grateful for?
The life I have; my health, friends, and family.

What’s next for Dave Homcy?
Continuing to work on the T.V. show Hawaii 5–0, and looking forward to the releases of these projects that I’ve filmed recently: “Come Hell or High Water,” “El Mar, Mi Alma,” “Bunker 77,” and “Eddie Vedder– Longing To Belong.”

Here are a few links to see what I have been up to: www.davehomcy.com, http://vimeo.com/davehomcy, http://cravegreens.tumblr.com/

Photography credits: 1. Photo of Mark Healy by Dave Homcy, 2. Baja, Mexico by Dave Homcy, 3. Waimea Bay by Dave Homcy, 4. Photo of Dave Homcy by Jeff Lindt, 5. Photo of Dave Homcy by Crystal Thornburg-Homcy.

By Mary Mills

Canadian-born shaper Shawn Ambrose is a man of many talents, from shaping to music to playing hockey. He remains humble and passionate about his chosen profession in the face of trying economic times. We took some time with Shawn to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I was born in a nunnery in St. Johns, Newfoundland, Canada! It gets pretty complicated from there, but let’s just say I had an interesting upbringing—with a great family and many stops around the world—before settling in San Diego, California.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Got a G&S single fin pintail that was 6’4” or so at age 8.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
“Hey! This sure beats standing up on my boogieboard!”

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young man?
Evel Knievel, Elvis and Tiger Williams

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
We went to the Olympics this past year in Vancouver, and came as close to experiencing world peace as is probably possible. Even got to check out a couple of off-the-beaten– track surf spots on Vancouver Island! Everyone should make an attempt to go to an Olympics; it’s a magical thing to experience, and we had a good powder day at Whistler while we were there! Guess I could throw my early Indo and mainland Mexico travels in there as well.

Who or what inspires you?
People who are constantly involved in critical thinking and doing their own thing. I’m down with original thought—write your own song, pave your own path.…

What prompted you to start shaping surfboards and when did you know you would make this your livelihood?
I guess I was just that kid who likes to tinker and take stuff apart or modify it, so it was natural to want to make a board. That and it was hard to buy a new one on a 12 year old kid’s salary! As for making this a career, it just kind of happened. I went to college for a bit and had a go at being a union fire sprinkler fitter, but I always yearned for the traveling surfer lifestyle that my friends from my contest days had managed to keep alive.

I would constantly hear about extended trips to Mainland or Indo or wherever, and wanted to be able to take off for months at a time for surf travel as my friends were. So I kind of turned to building boards as a way of living the lifestyle my professional surfer friends were living at the time. I could build a bunch of boards and keep my overhead low, and just split for two to three months in Indo—or wherever—then come back and start saving to do it all over again. Sure, a lot of my friends bought houses before I finally was able to buy one, but I wouldn’t trade my life experience for anything. There’s nothing like settling in at a remote spot and just being in the moment for as long as it takes to fully appreciate it!

You’ve been shaping since 1980. How do you think the surf industry had changed since that time?
Oh, man! That’s a loaded question. I started this because I’ve always liked making stuff, from sewing trunks for my buddies in junior high and high school to wrenching on cars and bikes and making boards. Then, it became a way to keep the dream alive. And in a way, I guess I’m still living it .

I can remember when I started being able to charge decent money for shaping and pay my rent with it! I couldn’t believe it, I had been doing it practically for free for years. I try to remember that when overhead, insurance and all the other things start to pile up. I mean, I get to make toys for a living.

So, for the kids out there, don’t take it to seriously in the beginning; get into it because you love and enjoy it. If you can make something more out of it, good for you. It’s not getting any easier, but there is always room for a passionate young shaper with good business sense and some talent.

If you were on a deserted island with a pointbreak on one side and a beach break on the other, which one of your boards would you want to have with you?
At the moment, one of my S.F.E. models although I think I would have to put some side bite boxes in just for kicks, so I could also ride it as a 2 + 1. That’s if it was a punchy beach break. If it’s a burger, I would have to go with a 4 + 1 setup so I could skate the quad at the mushy beach break. Better yet, maybe I would just work on making some fruit wine and wait for the point to fire!

How do you find enough time in the day to pursue all of your interests (surfing/shaping, classic cars, ice hockey, music and snowboarding)?
By forcing myself to be organized—something that doesn’t usually come easy to the artistically-inclined, I’m told! I also believe that the mind is a muscle, and you’ve got to use and challenge it. So, rebuilding a motor on a different bike or car, and having to troubleshoot on the fly or making a handplane out of a chunk of wood or boogie board foam, keeps my mind sharp and ready to challenge my limits when I put the planer to the foam. Same as making a creative play on the ice or picking a good line down a chute in the Sierras.

Do you think you, your truck and your surf shop (the last two having been involved in dramatic accidents involving idiotic drivers) have magnetic personalities—the kind that attract cars?
Well, I like to believe things happen for a reason. That reason isn’t always known in the present tense though. I guess … you just gotta roll with it.

It’s all good as long as whatever gets hit is insured, and it’s not me on my bike! We won’t talk about the jaywalking pedestrian I hit last year on my Shovelhead while splitting lanes.

Tell us about your band.
My good friend Mike Palm makes a living as a punk rocker and wanted to get a side project going to scratch his lifelong itch to play “surf music”. And that’s what we do. The Deoras play traditional reverb-drenched surf music played on vintage Fender instruments and amps. Actually, half the fun is acquiring and dialing in the old gear!

We haven’t been playing much lately as Mike has been busy touring and is gone literally half the year. But we do have a mostly finished second album recorded, and hope to finish that up and do a few gigs this summer. Maybe, in my spare time, I’ll put up a new web page. (Laughs) In the meantime, I think we do have an old Myspace page if anyone wants to check out our tunes. I think we even have one of Mike’s more popular songs with Agent Orange (“Bloodstains”) on there.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No regrets—I just do my best in the moment and keep going forward.

What are you most proud of?
Being able to make a living and hold down a nice lifestyle for my family in this crazy ever-changing industry.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Well, if you look behind the “golden curtain”, there’s a bunch of guys like me who have figured out how to carve out a niche in this modern global economy. The problem is most people are more caught up with the guy playing the organ grinder and the monkey in the pinstriped suit. So I guess all us little guys will keep innovating and grinding away in the trenches, and the big guys will keep lurking and plotting and scheming.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has given me a way of life, and the ability and freedom to pursue the American Dream.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Traveling with my family.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Lately, I’ve been riding my S.F.E. a lot. It’s a round-tailed, retro-influenced egg-type thing. Feels good to go back to basics with a single fin. I’ve been diggin’ the super smooth turns and it’s great in the barrel.

More often than not, I go right out front of my shop. Give me a combo swell in the fall when the kids are back in school and I’m a happy man.

What’s your favorite meal?
Sushi at The Fish Joint right here in beautiful Oceanside, California!

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Ipod? Isn’t that like an 8-track now? Pretty much just Pandora stations for me now. Currently in the rotation is Great Big Sea, The Fireballs, Chet Atkins, Stompin’ Tom , Old Crow Medicine Show, John Prine, David Allan Coe, Steve Earle and various old school punk (Agent Orange, Fear, TSOL, Circle Jerks, The Dickies, etc.).

What causes or organizations do you support?
Surfrider, The Mammoth Foundation, California Surf Museum and the A.R.F.

What are you most grateful for?
All of it — my family and friends and the opportunity to do what I love every day.

What’s next for Shawn Ambrose?
I’m just gonna keep living the dream, pushing limits and trying to keep the original thoughts coming.

Principal photography by Maggie Marsek. Last image courtesy of Shawn Ambrose.

Yuta Sezutsu is a talented Japanese surfer. His smooth style and graceful noserides have been getting attention at Joel Tudor’s Duct Tape Invitationals and in the new Mikey DeTemple film, Sight and Sound. We spoke with Yuta to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I grew up in Fukuoka, located in Western Japan. I later moved to Taito Chiba when I was finished junior high school at 15 years old. My dad and I would go surfing every weekend until we moved to Fukuoka. Now I surf everyday at Taito Beach.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I got my first surfboard when I was 10 years old. It was a Bic 6’7 shortboard.Then a half year ago, I met Seitaro Nakamura. His surfing changed the way I surf. It was super beautiful. I then bought a YU 9’0 noserider and it became my first longboard. It was super expensive, so I my dad help me pay for it.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I can’t really explain the feeling. It was just really smooth and amazing. I will never forget it.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young man?
I grew up with all the local old guys at Fukuoka. These guys love to surf sooo
much! I just learned from them it is most important thing. I love these guys! They are my heroes!

Who/what inspires you?
Seitaro Nakamura, Joel Tudor, Kenji Miyauchi… these guys have all been
inspiration for my surfing and life. My dad especially taught me how I should be living a good life. My boss Takuya Testu has an awesome character and personality. I wouldn’t be here without all the people in my life. Also movies, books, and people also provide me good inspiration.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Love to everything. Love is everything. Loving my family, friends, nature, and everybody and everything including myself.

Is there a “Golden Rule” or philosophy that you live by?
Don’t lie. And be humble.

o you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Nothing! That is such nonsense, because my life is always great!

What are you most proud of?
My family, especialy my parents. They were taught me about life and how to love.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is free. There are no rules, just having fun. I can say the same for my life. It
has changed my life to a better one. More smiles, more laughs, and being happy.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Seitaro Nakamura, Harrison Roach, Christian Wach, Tyler Warren, Alex
Knost, Joel Tudor, Dane Peterson… and more! These are my favorite surfers.

What is your favorite board?
Smooth Log and Single fin. They are awesome.

What’s your favorite meal?
Mom’s Japanese udon noodles.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I don’t have iPod! Haha. Pink Floyd, The Blue Hearts,The
Beatles, Picaresque Sound Track. I love everything!

What are you most grateful for?
My parents, my family, friends, and the people who support me.

What’s next for Yuta Sezutsu?
I don’t know. I’ll just keep going my own way. I have to be me – Yuta Sezutsu. Stay original and be proud of being Japanese. That’s it.

All photographs courtesy Yuta Sezutsu.

Pierce Michael Kavanagh is a talented San Diego surfer/filmmaker. His recent film Manufacturing Stoke raises questions about the toxic chemicals used in the surfboard industry and asks us all: How can we make a difference for the environment? Pierce speaks to us about his inspiration for the film and his current obsession for bodysurfing.

What was your life like growing up?
Amazing on one hand and absolutely scarring on the other. I grew up in La Jolla, just up the beach from Windansea. Our house was really close to the beach so we got really good waves but my Mom could also come down and call us in for anything. She would come down to the bottom of the street and just belt it out… “Pierce, Dennis… come in for supper…” Let the heckling begin. Supper? My folks were from the Bronx so they didn’t know any better. It was really fun though. La Jolla was a small beach town with a bunch of big families. Everybody kind of looked out for each other, both in and out of the water. The surf scene is well established, so one learns quickly how to behave.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were younger?
La Jolla has bred some of the most amazing surfers (and a freakishly large amount of brothers who surf together). So here is a shout out to all the brothers who have shared, battled, and grown up surfing together. My brother Dennis (he rips, I do not), the Littlemores, Feighans, Fitchs, Huffmans, Aguirres, Kenvins, Elliotts, Bakers, Guminas, McCulloughs, Kings, Farsons… the list goes on. Oh, and Henry Hunte surfs so good he doesn’t need a brother – cheers, Henry.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Life changing. It may be one of the clearest memories of my life. Matt Feighan took my brother and I to Little Point on one of his rad old Skip Frye single fins with the intention of getting us off our boogie boards once and for all. I was 11 and my brother Dennis was 9. We shared 2-foot peelers all afternoon. I was amazed at looking down and watching the eelgrass sway as I passed over the reef with each and every wave.The water was crystal clear and you could see all the way to the bottom while you were surfing. Nothing has been the same for me since.

Where did you interest in filmmaking come from?
I think it was going over the falls at Big Rock in the wipeout section of Chris Bystrom’s “Son of the Last Surf Movie.” This combined with the fact that film is such a beautiful and evocative art form. My fascination started at a young age with photography and the ability to capture a solitary moment in time. It evolved naturally through my love for surfing and skating and all of the mags and movies from the 80s. We used to wear out VHS tapes at Bird’s surf shop when the surf was flat. Pretty sure I melted “Beyond Blazing Boards” and “Mad Wax” a couple times. Now that I think about it, filmmaking has come full circle for me. I used to shoot VHS from the beach when I was around 13 and after a film degree and several decades later, I still shoot at the beach. Go figure.

What inspired you to create “Manufacturing Stoke”?
Last fall, my wife Petra & I went to the Green Expo at Seaside Reef in Cardiff to watch our friend Gary play music. While waiting for his set we walked around to all of the booths and saw a lot of creative and amazing ideas. The excitement and inspiration that came from the vendors was really refreshing. The festival had a “new guard” industry vibe to it and consisted of Individuals that were striving for a more sustainable surf industry from a grassroots level. One booth that blew me away was *enjoy handplanes.

My new friends Ed and Kipp, are recycling handplanes from damaged surfboards and wetsuits otherwise heading for the landfill. Bingo. I went home and started researching the industry and was shocked about how toxic it still was since Clark Foam closed down. I wanted to do four short films highlighting individuals changing perceptions about wax, board construction, wetsuits and clothing. As soon as we started filming we realized we had something way bigger than we originally thought and shifted gears toward a feature length documentary. And after seven months of hard work, misfit pictures is proud to present… Manufacturing Stoke.

What has been the reaction to the film?
For the most part, reactions have been overwhelmingly positive. I am extremely proud of the film but I am blown away when somebody watches the film and then comes up with tears in their eyes hugging and thanking me. I was not ready for that. It is both trippy and so powerful. We all have friends in the industry so it is extremely important that they are safe.

After every screening, I always hear the same questions, though. Where was so-and-so? How come some “green” companies are not in the film? Does Jasper have anything more to say about surfing’s overseas industry?

When you get down to it, Manufacturing Stoke is the film surf industry leaders do NOTwant you to see. So yes, some people are going to be pissed, but they can be pissed from their mansion on the hill. misfit pictures gave all the major companies in the industry a chance to be involved and most wanted nothing to do with us. Would you rock the boat if you knew your Guccis could get wet?

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have traveled far and wide and recently went to Oahu and fell in love with the place. We were invited to the Honolulu Surf Film Festival and my wife and I jumped at the opportunity to go. We spent 10 days on Oahu and had an incredible visit. We scored back-to-back south swells in addition to showing our film in paradise. The beauty, surf, womp, soft sand, great weather, roadside grinds… what more could one ask for? If I could get tan, I would definitely move there. Mahalo to Gina Caruso and the Kelleys.

Who/what inspires you?
My beautiful wife, Petra.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
This is a gnarly interview! I believe we never stop educating ourselves. When I was younger, a part of me wanted me to burn it all down to the ground because I didn’t believe all the bullshit I was fed. Now that I have mellowed with age, I believe small controlled fires are the way to go. Manufacturing Stoke is a small controlled fire. So my approach to things has changed a bit, as I have gotten older. With that in mind, I am curious to see what my thoughts will be 20 years from now. If this makes absolutely no sense, I apologize.

What are you most proud of?
The collaboration involved with the making of this film. We had no budget, no marketing department, and no industry clout. In fact, nobody even knows who we are. Everybody who got behind this project contributed to this film simply because they believed in the project. This film owes everything to the crew, artist and musicians,.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing started for me in front of my folks’ house and has led me around the world. What started as boyhood intrigue developed into a lifelong obsession. Surprisingly, this project got me reacquainted with the often-overlooked nuances of just being in the water. Because there is a lot of water footage in the film (I wanted to put the viewer right in the line-up) I spent a long time examining the clips during the editing process. The ocean is so beautiful and this film celebrates that. There is no way surfing cannot profoundly impact your life. Surfing has definitely made me a better person. In fact, I am taking a break to go womping… I will be back.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Right now. I am the happiest I have ever been. I am thankful for everything.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Lucas Dirkse and Ryan Burch. Both of theses guys rip anything and everything. From longboards to bodysurfing – they have it covered. I am stoked for them and all the kids coming up right now. They have access to more board designs than ever before. There is no right or wrong in surfing, just whatever works.

Carl Ekstrom looks at board design like nobody else. He is not just continuing the shaping tradition; he is on a completely different plane. It is good to see that Sacred Craft is honoring Carl with their “Tribute to the Masters Shape-Off” this October. It is well deserved. There are many others like Danny Hess, Grain Surfboards, Eco Boardworks and Matt Biolos who are utilizing alternative materials in their board construction. Minds are opening in surfing every day.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
My favorite surfboard is a mid-1970s 6’9” Terry Fitzgerald Hot Buttered single fin. It is probably about 3” thick a foot from the nose and surfs like nothing I have ever ridden. Right now it is down at Scorpion Bay and I miss it. If anyone is going down, let me know… I need it brought back.

But my favorite board right now is an *enjoy handplane. I have been riding them for months now and have never gotten so barreled bodysurfing. Besides coming out of barrels you can actually cutback with these things. No lie. I dig the resurgence of bodysurfing. Bodysurfing is the new black.I can’t wait to see Malloy’s “Come Hell or High Water.”

As far as favorite surfspot?
Lowers… tell everyone.

What’s your favorite meal?
Bacon. A close second would be more bacon.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I don’t really listen to my iPod that much. Between the Sony Walkman, punk rock shows and the shorepound, I probably have about 60% of my hearing left. Lately, I have been listening to the Montalban Quintet. Support local music.

What causes/ projects/ organizations do you support?
I support the underground. If I had more money, I would support a lot more things.

What are you most grateful for?
Friends, family and perfect shorebreak.

What’s next for PMK?
Oh, man… we have been really busy. We have been touring around the west with the Manufacturing Stoke Anti-stadium Summer Tour and Expression Sessions and have a few more California shows before we go back east for a stretch. We will have shows in Encinitas, Ventura, Santa Cruz and San Francisco later this month. Our East Coast leg starts at Grain Surfboards Surf Re-Evolution on September 10th and we have about 8–9 more shows lined up. Stops include Boston, Providence, NYC, Brooklyn and Atlanta. Aside from that, we have been in film festivals in France, Germany, Australia and Japan.

I am very grateful for the exposure and great reception that Manufacturing Stoke has been receiving. This film was a labor of love and it is good to see that people are stoked on it. To follow along on the progress, check out www.manufacturingstoke.com

Future projects include helping my wife with a short film she is working on. I also have 2 more documentaries that I am working on as well as producing a couple of other projects. My passion will always lie with documentary filmmaking, but I look forward to anything that comes my way. Who knows? Maybe Manufacturing Stoke II!

Learn more about Pierce Michael Kavanagh and his film here. Top photograph by Kevin Roche. Photo number two by Nick Palatella. All other photos courtesy Pierce Michael Kavanagh. 

Luca Merli is a talented Italian surfer/filmaker. His latest project, Onde Nostre, follows the well-known surfer Allessandro Ponzanelli. We spoke with Luca to learn more.

Where did you grow up, and what was it like?
Well, I grew up in the outskirts of Milan in the seventies/eighties an area kind of inspired by the American suburbs, small detached houses with front and back garden and empty streets. It didn’t look like being in the classic Italian town at all, it had an international/modern feeling and my friends and I were skating in the streets all day, California and the surf culture seemed a far distant land but we felt part of it in some ways, or maybe we thought we were. I have great memories of that time, I’m actually writing a film inspired by those years and the place were I grew up… I don’t know whether it will ever be realized… too many things to do so little time…

When did you start surf­ing?
During the summer with my family we were traveling a lot throughout Italy and Europe, (Sardinia, Apulia, Tuscany, Uk, France, Spain, Portugal) all by car, my dad had an old school long windsurf on top of his red Alfa Romeo and I enjoyed paddling and catching foams on every stop at the beach, every where and every time with all kinds of different conditions. I didn’t see many surfers back then, just here and there, I didn’t really manage to do much but I enjoyed being in the sea. Then, back in the city I was more into music, skate and snowboarding and of course partying. Then I moved to London where I finished my studies, I actually went back to surfing when I was much older, mid nineties where things were picking up everywhere in Italy.

What drew you to surfing?
Well my dad was a real surfer/skater fan, never really surfed or skated but as he worked a lot in the US he was bringing me back all kinds of stuff from Tony Alva’s skateboards to Greg WeaverVHS movies like Stylemaster to magazines and other stuff, I think that was the beginning, the image before the action… then nature, which plays a very important role for me, I came from a city and I just physically needed to feel and breathe and enjoy the natural elements around us whenever I can. I want to feel the power of nature and I like to share this feeling with my friends. It’s kind of primordial, my inner nature, a drive and I need to do it.

What has been the influence of surfing and how has it changed your life?
Surfing plays a very important role in my life, as I was saying I just need it to survive in the city. It’s like an open window where I can look out when I need to. It feels like freedom, it is in fact freedom. It changed my life in the way that I discovered a different way of being myself more down to earth. I enjoy a simple lifestyle.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path of surfing today?
I respect every style and I like the fact that in this country especially it’s still a kind of new thing, there’s still so much to do and to discover which is really exciting. I personally like more the exploration/artistic part of it, I’m not so much into super human tricks and stuff…Just to name a few who have been and are inspiration I would say Thomas Campbell, Rob Machado and the experimental, eclectic Derek Hynd.

Where did you interest in photography come from?
I can’t remember when I took my first photo, I was a kid anyway. Maybe around eight during one of the summer holidays around Europe. Then I got into cinematography and the art of film making. It’s a powerful tool to represent what’s around us, and it manages to combine photography/music/graphic/storytelling.

What do you look for in capturing a good image?
The light makes everything, of course the surfing/performance as well… so I would say the combination of both. But for me is kind of like surfing, as Derek Hynd once said: “Being in control out of control.” That’s why I prefer analogue images, there’s always a margin of unexpected, a little scratch, the grain, some light spilling on the neg.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I like Sardinia in the winter and the south of Italy, there are so many empty nice beaches and so much good food…Of course I like other places too, Africa, Indonesia, Mexico, I like to travel but there’s nothing like home. When it comes down to it, the best is where you are with family or friends.

What are you most proud of?
My kids, well at least most of the time… but also I’m proud of the fact that from a small project like ONDE NOSTRE which had a very little budget and expectation we managed to make a film that created lots of interest in a country that is not usually considered a top spot for surfing, I would say I’m proud of it, why not?

What are you most grateful for?
So many things, too many people. We are nothing alone…I say Thank you at least fifty times a day.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Speed, friendship, love and a nice sunset with good swell and other small simple things.

What’s your favorite meal?
Parma ham and sun dried tomatoes in olive oil, not necessarily together…

What is on your iPod?
Lots of stuff apart from teenage pop Shakira/Lady Gaga style, although my daughter has got tons of it…The other prejudice maybe is on Italian melodic music, lovesong kind of stuff… I cannot stand it. Most of the time I searching on myspace for new unknown bands that I could use for my films.

What’s next for Luca Merli?
I’m already thinking and starting working on the new surf movie, Onde Nostre | Ritratti di Surf, basically surfer’s portrait… there’s already a small teaser online, it’s footage shot last winter in Indonesia by Alessandro Ponzanelli and there’s going to be another soon shot by Thomas Cravarezza in Australia.

The next project is going to be a more documentary project where we will explore and portray surfers already involved on the movie ONDE NOSTRE, I will try to get deeper on their life and even explore the young history of the Italian surf culture, the old generation which is now between forty and fifty compared to the new one emerging and pushing.

I will also would like to travel southern in the peninsula, to discover new and unseen areas where surf is rapidly growing and alive…that’s the aim, It’s probably going to take a long time to organize, find a distributor and put together the finances to do it, and then to shoot. it will be probably out in the summer of 2012, I still would like to shoot in 16mm. We started already building brick by brick… handmade style.

To learn more about Luca Merli’s film “Onde Nostra”  click here.

Bird Huffman is a California surfer who is the owner/operator of The Shed in San Diego. After accumulating an envious collection of boards and memorabilia, Bird’s Shed evolved to become a true gathering place for the local surfing community. We spoke with Bird to learn more.

What was it like growing up?
I was blessed and still have both my parents, three brothers and five sisters. It was crazy around the house, but there was always much love and mutual appreciation between ourselves. My dad held down two jobs for the longest time to raise us and my mom was a full-time mother… times two. Always were brought up to appreciate whatever we had and we learned to live a lot on very little.

My folks came here from Minnesota in the early 50’s and never looked back. My mom would pack us all up in the family VW van and we’d spend all day long at La Jolla Cove diving and learning about the ocean from real lifeguards. My older brothers, Mark and Rex, got into kneeboarding very early and I followed suit. Started hanging out and working at Select Surf Shop in 1970, and have been doing basically the same thing for over 40 years now. I’m still loving it everyday. I’m 25 years married to Amy, and have two daughters and two sons.

When did you get your first board?
My older brother Mark handed down his Newport House of Paipo to me when I was eight or nine.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a board?
I was a kneeboarder, but, to me, riding any type of wave on anything is a very hard thing to put into words. I couldn’t have been able to describe it then, and I still can’t find the words now.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Bill Caster was the biggest influence in my surfing life then and even now though he’s been in heaven for many years. People of that kind of integrity and love stick with you throughout your life.

Explain how the idea for The SHED came about.
I have always been totally absorbed in all things surf, but especially more so about anything that concerns San Diego. Having grown up here for my entire life with some of the greatest surfers, shapers and designers all around me, I just took down mental notes and physically started to collect pertinent things that related to surfing. Nothing was organized or planned—a board here and a few more there, an old wetsuit, trunks, mags, films trophies and so on just kept getting squirreled away here and there without me ever really paying that much attention to it all. Years kept rolling by, as they do, and about four years ago, I found myself sitting out in the water at Cloudbreak with a troubled mind. I was burning out on retail and the general direction in which surfing was being jammed down people’s throats. I found myself wanting to just bail on it all— sell all my stuff, grab Amy and the kids and go underground in Australia or some such place and just surf! I figured to come home and liquidate EVERYTHING.

That same night, after the Kava ceremony, a more peaceful idea slowly started to form in my mind. I decided that I, as an individual who had been given so much through surfing, needed to give something back. From that point on, I started to formulate a plan where all that I had acquired could be shared with ANYBODY who wanted more of a true surf experience. Upon returning home, I found a large Quonset hut building, and slowly started to unearth and gather all the many things that I had collected through the years. Once I had most of the stuff in one big building, I sort of freaked out at the shear amount of items I had amassed. I realized then that it was coming to a time in my life where decisions had to be made. So with the support of my family and a very close group of friends, The SHED concept started to develop to where it has wound up today.

How did you get the name Bird when you are so into fish designs?
The name Bird really belongs to my older brother, Rex. It morphed over to me over the past 30 some years and as the great Greg Noll says, “It’s better then being called Shit Head!” My association with the fish was natural because of my love of the design and my chance to have been able to work closely with Steve Lis and Skip Frye in small ways over the years. I am just as involved with bonzers, quads and newer types of boards, like Firewires, as I am with the fish. People tend to gravitate towards this design or that depending upon whatever the trend may be. I prefer to stay on top of it all as it’s the sum of the whole that makes surfing what it is.

Who or what inspires you?
God above all other things… always. Being able to work with people, both young and old, who have a passion and will not turn away from that no matter what the popular consensus may be.

What is the greatest thing that you have learned in your life?
That there is one true God who walks with you through all the trials and tribulations that you must endure in a lifetime.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done things differently?
You bet, and I discover more every day. But as long as you learn from your mistakes and try and do better the next time, I’m okay with that.

What are you most proud of?
Thirty-one years of being with the same wonderful woman.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has been a part of my life for so long that this is a hard question to answer. I guess that surfing has taken some of the rough edges off of me over the years.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Peace and quiet.

Who are some of the individuals you feel are shaping the path of surfing today?
In shaping, I would have to say my number one guy would be Jeff McCallum. He has that something that I have only seen a few times over the many years. Ryland Rubens, who is my friend Pete’s son—who, at age 12, surfs with a passion and style that all can appreciate. And a million other people of all ages who decide to pick up whatever they choose to ride and go surfing!

What is your favorite board? Your favorite spot?
Right now, my 5’4″ Firewire Sweet Potato is my constant companion. You can’t beat J Bay for the Rights or Restaurants for the Lefts!

What is your favorite meal?
Amy’s meatloaf, but using turkey meat only.

What are you currently listing to on your iPod?
“Is Your Love Strong Enough?” by Bryan Ferry, with David Gilmour on guitar, from the “Legend” soundtrack.

What causes/projects/organizations do you support?
Mainly grade level school auctions or private injured surfers causes right now.

What’s next for Bird Huffman?
I’m going surfin!

Photography credits: Cher Pendarvis (1, 4, 8),  Kirk Aeder (2), Peggy Ketchum (3),
Sangiolo Images (5, 6, 7).

Ryan Heywood is a photographer/surfer from Australia. Inspired by music, energy, and the ocean, Ryan creates brilliant imagery with film and is also the creator of a bodysurfing-only blog. In this interview, like his art, he keeps it simple and to the point.

What was your life like growing up?
Great! All time—best family and friends ever. I grew up in a magical place, plenty of waves and amazing Australian bushland.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Around Christmas time.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
It was epic—a physical conundrum manifest through nature and man-made devices!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were growing up?
The homeless dude that lived under the bridge where I grew up. He was trippin’ balls and surfing every day. Got free milk and bread from the bakery. He had it dialed. I think he may have needed a homeless girlfriend though.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Uluru, centre of Australia. Insane energy rock. There is so much to this place; it’s  beautiful and you can feel that same thing that happens when you hear really good music!

Who or what inspires you?
It’s hard to say… heaps of things: music, energy, ocean, warmth, cold, colour, flora and fauna, fine art, burnouts, car parks, fog, sun, clouds, mountains, cool dudes, girls that jump in pools, cool bongs, comics, the internet, surfboards, guitars, parties, summer breeze, dogs, cats, people, family and mates.

What is your process for creating your art?
I have multiple films in different cameras. I choose the film/camera that suits the light/subject. I shoot a roll and then send it to the lab, get back a sheet of negs and then archive.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Same thing on my to do list… NOTHING!!!

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
NO.

What are you most proud of?
The website I made—bodysurf.com.au.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Well, I guess I really enjoyed surfing because I didn’t really think of anything when I was doing it. No thoughts,  just waves and being. It’s made me appreciate everything, I guess.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Oh shit… sun on the back, A-frame peaks, glass-offs, music. There’s too many things to name. See “inspirations”.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I like the DIY guys, dudes that make their own boards, wax, sun cream, etc.— adventurers and creative thinkers.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I don’t really have a favourite board. Fav spot would have to be Nudes Wedge.

What’s your favorite meal?
Breakfast

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
The Saints.

What are you most grateful for?
Everything!

What’s next for Ryan Heywood?
NOTHING!!!

To see more of Ryan Heywood’s work, check out his blog here.

Steven Mast is a talented shaper/artist/musician/surfer who divides his busy life between San Diego, Cincinnati, and Kentucky. Known for his talent in surfboard building as well his tattoo art, Steven’s creativity has no boundaries. We spoke with him to learn more.

What was it like growing up in Ohio?
Actually it was pretty cool—in an Opie Taylor sort of way. (For those of you too young to get the reference, watch some old Andy Griffith Shows). I grew up with a family of six kids in a small river town surrounded by forested hills and cornfields. Spent the summers swimming, and exploring the creeks and woods. My family had a bunch of old beater dirt bikes that, as long as I worked and could buy gas, I could use. Just push ‘em a couple blocks and head into the woods. I remember the family loading into the station wagon to go to the drive-in and see Evel Kneivel, played by George Hamilton. Awesome.

Of course all of us couldn’t wait to grow up and get the hell out of there. But in retrospect, it was a pretty idyllic childhood.

What attracted you to surfing?
Well, I grew up swimming. My mother watched a friend drown when she was a kid, so she made sure we could all swim practically before we could walk. We’d visit my grandma in Florida every other year, so I learned to love the ocean. Then, I saw an episode of “Wide World of Sports” that covered the Pipe Masters back in the ‘70s and I was hooked. They also had some competitive skateboarding on the show. So I got out my brother’s old clay-wheeled sidewalk surfer and pretended I was surfing. I became one of the better skaters in Cincinnati eventually, but never lost the feeling that skating was a sorry substitute for surfing.

What was the feeling you had when you you first stood on a surfboard?
I actually spent a lot of time in the soup on Mission Beach learning to surf. But the first real wave I caught, turned and rode was at Doheny. I remember it like it was yesterday. I got up, went left and as I trimmed down the line, I said out loud, “This rules.” And it did. The wave was about thigh high. I’ve been hopelessly addicted ever since.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were growing up?
Growing up, I admired my older brothers. They always seemed so cool and I was in love with every one of their girlfriends at one point or another. Also, my mom’s brothers were the coolest older dudes I knew. They were like Cool Hand Luke and James Dean. Hard working carpenters.

Also, my grandpa, Harry. He’d spent time in the army in World War II, then had taken his family to Montana to work on a ranch before returning to Ohio and working as a contractor/builder. He chain smoked Camels, drank quarts of shitty beer and drove me and my brother around the surrounding counties visiting work sites. He taught me how to drive nails, shoot, pee outdoors and that life is for living, not worrying all the time about shit that doesn’t matter. He died early doing what he wanted. He was my idea of a real man. And although I didn’t at the time, I now admire my parents most for giving their lives to a family of six spoiled brats who didn’t appreciate it. They both worked themselves practically to death to give us a chance at a better life. They are both amazing people and I’m proud to be their son.

What inspired you to shape boards?
I’ve always found gratification in working with my hands. My father spent endless hours teaching me to use tools and my brain to do whatever was needed. I really wanted a board that would work the way I saw in those first television shows I saw as a kid. To me, the apex of style was the end of the single fin era. The problem was, most of the boards I saw at the time were either short longboards or long short boards. The only thing close were Skip’s eggs and Eaton’s bonzers. Since I could afford neither, I looked into shaping. I bought and studied Carper’s Shaping 101 and as many books as I could find, and became obsessed with learning the craft. I never in my wildest dreams thought people would actually pay for my shapes.

What do you love about it?
It sounds corny, but sculpting something with my hands that I created in my mind. I’ve been tattooing for twenty two years now and I have become very successful thanks to a lot of people along the way. But I have never felt more like an artist than when I’m shaping a new design. I shape intuitively and feel like I can visualize and feel how water will behave as it slides across the contours I’m creating. I get great satisfaction from the beautiful, organic curves that I like to use in my designs. Of course, testing them is at least as much fun as shaping them. I feel incredibly fortunate that the boards I shape are able to pay for themselves. That other people get enjoyment from them is icing on the cake.

Tell us about your tattoo work.
I apprenticed under Dana Brunson in Cincinnati in 1989 and have been tattooing professionally ever since. It’s a great way to make a living if you can handle the stress. Over they years, tattooing allowed me the freedom to travel and, eventually, to move to San Diego to fulfill my lifelong dream of making surfing a part of my life. I lived there full-time, working for Patty Kelley at Avalon Tattoo in Pacific Beach, for eleven years. Currently, I spend over half of my time in Newport, Kentucky/Cincinnati, Ohio, working at Designs by Dana. The balance of my time is spent in San Diego working at Avalon Tattoo and shaping boards up on the hill in Encinitas (thanks to the generosity of Randy Wong and, now, Matt and Margaret Calvani).

Who are some of the people who have ridden your boards?
I personally know a lot of the people who are on my boards—nobody famous really, just Tourmaline locals and their friends. I have a fair number of boards going to Japan through Surfindian in PB lately and that is very gratifying. I also have boards at Corduroy in Portland, Maine and Greg Surf Company in Osaka.

Who or what inspires you?
His Holiness the Dalai Lama.

The old crew at Tourmaline—Black Mac, Hadji, Billy Goldsmith, Ron St. John, Bud Caldwell, Captain Dan, Larry Gordon. All of these guys, some of them now gone, have been an inspiration. The joy of hanging out with friends and getting some water time in, when most people their age are happy just to get up in the morning, is a true inspiration to me.

Beautiful design also inspires me. When I see something that is so well designed that it is pared down to it’s functional essence, that’s inspiring.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Humility and compassion. Both very difficult, both the path to true happiness.

What are you most proud of?
My thirty-one year relationship with my beautiful wife, Karen.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
It’s hard to explain, but surfing is like exercise, church, therapist and the playground all rolled into one. I can’t think of any other activity that allows adults to play, just play, not compete. I feel that surfing puts you in the moment and that, just like meditation, this is a life-altering and healthy thing. We, as a society, get so hung up on material things and politics and what other people are thinking and doing that we forget to just live and experience what we are doing at any given moment.

Such a gift surfing is. It still amazes me that I sometimes see angry, bitter people in the line-up. Surfers have a daily experience that some people save up for an entire year just to experience for a couple days. That fact has helped me to adjust my outlook. I try to see whatever I am doing as an experience that I may never get to have again and appreciate it for its uniqueness in time. Whether it’s tattooing an individual, riding a wave, playing music with my friends, each of these things will never happen again and each makes up my life for better or worse.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
The perfect day: waking up and heading to the beach with my wife, having a nice session, going to work for awhile before spending the evening with Karen, cooking and hanging out.

Describe a perfect meal.
I’ve been in and around the restaurant business since I was 17. All the good things in my life came from that—my wife, my career, travel, my outlook. I’ve had my share of great meals, but a few stand out. Oysters with an Abita Amber at Felix’s Oyster House in the French Quarter. The roast duck with corn pudding at Nola, Emiril’s casual place, again in the French Quarter. The Chicken Martinelli at Dee Felice Café in Covington, Kentucky. Any number of dinners Karen and I concocted at home.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Miles Davis, Mozart, Baroque chamber music, the Old 97’s, Tom Waits, Led Zeppelin, John Prine, The Specials, Dave Brubeck. There’s only two kinds of music—good music and bad music.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I don’t know about the future of surfing, but I really like the shapes of Brian Hilbers, Marc Andreini and Manny Caro. I practically worship Skip Frye. Matt Calvani, at Bing, definitely has his shit together as far as keeping a large surfboard label going and still staying forward thinking.

What are you currently riding? Your favorite surf spot?
I only own about five boards at a time and keep about three boards in my bus. I go to them depending on conditions, but my favorites right now are my 6’7″ HPH speedster and my 7’3″ Malibu hull. I’m kinda missing my Hillbilly hull though.

I love Tourmaline for the consistent, user-friendly waves and people. I consider it my home break. Although I don’t get there as often as I’d like, The Cliffs has to be one of the greatest surf areas in the world and, despite the crowds, you gotta love the wave at Swamis.

What’s next for Steve Mast?
I’m concentrating on steering away from custom shapes and only shaping whatever inspires me on any given day. My best shapes happen when I have no set goal, as in exact dimensions or am reproducing an older shape. I kind of like the idea of surfboards in a fine art mode where each shape is a new creation, perhaps in a consistent style, that stands on its own. I feel the new gallery type surf shops like Surfindian and Corduroy, not to mention Mollusk and Icons, are leading this trend.

I’m also working on spending more time in San Diego again with my wife. I love Kentucky and Cincinnati, but I really miss the beach in the mornings.

To learn more about Steven Mast, please visit his website here. Photography courtesy of Steven Mast. Special thanks to Adam Cap.

Keith Novosel is a talented surfer/photographer originally from the East Coast, currently residing in the Northwest. His photographs capture those subtle, in-between moments that a surfer experiences both in and out of the water. We spoke with Keith to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I’m fortunate to have had a great childhood. I grew up on plenty of land in Pennsylvania where I was able to run around and explore nature. As a child, I loved hiking in the woods and creek, watching and catching tadpoles, minnows, frogs, snakes, etc,. I’m not sure how it was a good idea to take snakes and salamanders to school for show and tell, but I remember doing that in elementary school.

My friends and I hung out all the time. We rode four wheelers around, fished, swam, played paintball, golfed, played soccer, hockey, and golf. We skateboarded, snowboarded… and did all kinds of other fun things. I still enjoy those simple things today, and they really shaped my overall appreciation for nature.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I didn’t get my first surfboard until after I graduated from high school. Living 8 hours from the ocean, surfing was never a realistic possibility (I never really thought about surfing Lake Erie). Each summer we would go to the New Jersey or Delaware coast for a week, where bodysurfing and boogie boarding introduced me to riding waves. It was my absolute favorite thing to do on those trips. I could stay out there all day, no matter the size or quality of the waves. My family and friends would get bored out there after a while, but I couldn’t get enough.

After high school, I moved to Florida for my first 2 years of college, and I was fully into surfing right away. I got a board that wasn’t really right for me, though, so I ended up borrowing boards from a friend until I got a 6’4″ fish of my own, which was a better fit for me to learn on. Longboarding came a little later for me… I did a little bit of it in Florida, but got way into it when I transferred to college in CA.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a surfboard?
I remember my first day surfing pretty well, and I just remember being so excited, and a little nervous. When I actually stood up, I had the same feeling that so many other people have had… just a feeling of pure fun, and a little bit like flying. It was a perfect day for learning–about waist high, glassy, and a little mushy.

If I’m not able to surf for a while, the next time I go I feel those same things all over again as I catch the first wave of the day. Right now, it’s been a couple months since I’ve surfed, which is the longest break since I started… so the next time should be interesting.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were growing up?
I looked up to my family. They taught me about the importance of family and friends, and about working hard, but having a balance between work and fun. We also went on vacations from time to time, which initiated my love for travelling.

I also had a book about Jacques Cousteau that I really enjoyed, ha. It was a childhood dream of mine to be a marine biologist. I don’t know why I was so drawn to the ocean, but that interest stuck.

Who/what inspires you?
I’m inspired by lots of people and things. Right now, John Muir inspires me most. I somehow didn’t learn about him until after college, and I’m so glad I found out about his work. Natural places really inspire me, and his writing and work to save those places are extremely important. It makes me so happy to be hiking in the woods, swimming in the ocean, or snowboarding in the back country. Cities and sprawling suburbs bum me out. One of my favorite quotes from Muir is “In God’s wildness lies the hope of the world – the great, unblighted, unredeemed wilderness.” If more people would get out the city bubble, more efforts might be made to save what’s left. Also, Bob Dylan’s poem “Last thoughts on Woodie Guthrie” is really inspiring to me.

What do you look for when creating a photograph?
It really depends on what I’m shooting. I kind of get in a weird zone when I have a camera, and am just drawn to certain scenes. I can’t really explain what attracts me to those scenes. It probably comes from a mix of my personality and inspirations (photographic or otherwise).

If something moves me in one way or another, I look through the viewfinder to find a composition that pleases me. If I can’t find the right composition or moment, a lot of times I don’t even take the photo. Lighting is obviously important too, but I think a photo with poor light but excellent, simple, and balanced composition is stronger than a photo with poor composition and great light.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Wow, that’s a big question. Appreciating simple things is one thing that I’m glad that I’ve learned. That might be the most important thing overall, as it carries over to so many areas of life. That answer is probably a little cliché, but it’s really true. It’s important to me to slow down and take in small things that are easily overlooked.

What are you most proud of?
My humility?

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
New Zealand stands out the most to me. The people, scenery, waves, and wildlife were all so intense. They really take care of their country, and having the freedom to drive around, park, and sleep pretty much anywhere without being hassled was unique. That trip was one of the best of my life. Surfing wasn’t the main purpose of the trip, but it was a nice plus.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is my favorite activity, by far, but it’s more than that. It’s the most dynamic activity I’ve ever done, maybe the most challenging, and definately the most fun. Surfing has allowed me to travel so much, to make some of my favorite photos, and to meet a lot of awesome people.

It’s hard to imagine what things would be like if I never left Pennsylvania, and never got into surfing. I’d probably be less happy and healthy, and might be in some line of work that I wouldn’t really want to be doing. I don’t think that was possible, though. I think it was always part of me, I just got a late start. I had to surf because of who I was, but surfing has also helped me grow and become who I am. It helped me to hold onto the important parts of my childhood that I mentioned above. I think that makes sense…

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My family, friends, and girlfriend. Also surfing and/or bodysurfing small to medium sized glassy waves, hiking, camping, travelling. Having a camera to document these things makes me happy too.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Well, that answer really depends on each individual surfer. When I was first learning about surfing, I was influenced by The Moonshine Conspiracy films (Shelter, Thicker Than Water, etc…). Then, Thomas Campbell’s Sprout was a major influence. More recently, it was Mikey Detemple’s Picaresque. My surfing has also been influenced by Ryan Lovelace and the board he shaped for me. It made riding non-longboards way more fun than it ever was…and it just fits the way I surf better than a standard thruster, or even a standard single fin.

To someone else, though, Tom Wegener might be shaping their path with his finless designs. Or Dane Reynolds with his airs and unique style. Or any of the big wave riders might shape how someone rides, trains, and thinks.

There are so many influences out there, and it’s just up to each surfer to choose which to follow, or to not follow. Anyone who is surfing well, documenting surfing in an interesting way, shaping good boards, or making art can be influencing the path of surfing without even knowing it.

What is your current favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
Well, I only have two boards right now and it’s really really hard to pick just one of them. One is a 9’10″ custom shape from Almond surfboards. This board took a little while for me to get comfortable with, as the rails are more pinched than I was used to, but now I love it, especially in good waves. Once it’s locked in trim, it’s not going anywhere.

My other board is a 6“9″ Dreadnought hull from Ryan Lovelace at Point Concept surfboards. This was also a custom board, based on what I told Ryan I wanted (a somewhat more versatile hull). For it’s pure speed and glide factor, might barely beat the Almond as my favorite. The boards compliment each other extremely well.

I need one more board for choppier or mushier waves, and I have one being shaped by Peninsula Holding Company in Florida. Then, for the kinds of waves I like to surf, I should be pretty well set up.

And a certain point break in New Zealand is my favorite. I took my hull there last year and was able to test it on long fun walls with hardly anyone out. I had a couple of the best sessions of my life there, probably. At least on something besides a longboard. Also, Ollie’s point in Costa Rica is a favorite… for similar reasons. It’s a super fun, uncrowded (most of the time), steep right point break. Both of these spots are in some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen.

What’s your favorite meal?
Pierogies are one of my all time favorite foods. They’re a polish food with doughy noodles on the outside and mashed potatos and cheese on the inside. Or, if you make them yourself, you can put whatever you want inside. They’re good with sweet potatos and spinich.

Mexican food has really grown on me over the past couple years, too. I wonder what a Mexican style pierogie would be like… put rice, beans, and cheese inside and salsa on top… hmmm.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Johnny Cash, Bob Dylan, Mason Jennings, John Prine, Alexi Murdoch, Lee Koch, The Tallest Man on Earth, Matt and Kim, Bön Iver, Ingrid Michelson, Tom Waits, Explosions in the Sky, The Shins, Regina Spektor Woody Guthrie, Sammy Walker. Mostly a little folky with some fun, funky stuff mixed in.

What are you most grateful for?
See the happiness question above. I’m grateful for those people and the ability to do those things.

What’s next for Keith Novosel?
What’s next is actually pretty unclear. Hopefully what’s next is a job that I enjoy. It’s been really hard for me to find any interesting work in Portland, where I’m currently living. I want to find something meaningful, where I can be a bit creative and can use my interests and skills. It could be a photo or video job, or a job for a non-profit or conservation organization, or for some other company that I respect, or… If anyone knows of anything, short or long term, please let me know.

Photographs courtesy of Keith Novosel. Photo of Keith Novosel surfing by Kyle Lightner. Walking portrait by Analisa Jahna.

By Smriti Keshari

Wolfgang Bloch is a talented and well-known Ecuadorian surfer/artist. Wolfgang uses color and the texture of wood and canvas to create an endless horizon meeting the sea. His work captures the simplicity of the forgotten aspects of our nature. We spoke with Wolfgang to learn more.

How was your life growing up in Ecuador?
I loved it. I loved the freedom; even though I lived in a city, I was within walking distance to open space and unspoiled nature. We didn’t have a TV, so I was always playing outside.

Are there influences of South America in your work?
I think it’s always there. Subconsciously the way I paint is very intuitive. There’s no plan, there are times I just close my eyes to really get whatever is inside out. It is a reflection of my experiences, I grew up down there and it’s a huge part of who I am. I did a lot of traveling and I was always interested in being outdoors with nature.

Ecuador is filled with color and texture and it was interesting to me so whatever I create now comes from that.

What did you want to become when you were a child?
As a child I never really thought much about what I would become. I just loved animals and nature. I was always catching insects, lizards and snakes.

When did you get on your first surfboard?
When I was twelve I went on my first surf trip with four friends to Olon, a small fishing village in Ecuador. One of my friends parents owned a farm right in front of a great beach break. We were there for a week with fun waves in 80 degree water. I’ll never forget that trip.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Exhilarating. Fun. Like millions, I was hooked for life.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
It’s always been a place for me to go and reconnect with nature. Re-charge and wash the stress
away…

What were your early influences?
As a teenager my father took me to see the works of Guayasamin, an Ecuadorian painter. His intense figures with distorted hands and emotional expressions moved me. Jerry Uelsmann was a photography professor at the University of Florida when I attended and I was blown away by his composite, abstracted photographs — a master of the darkroom. The Swiss painter Paul Klee and his use of unconventional materials for his time, also Mark Rothko, Robert Rauschenberg, Jasper Johns and Richard Diebenkorn have always inspired me. You can look at their work done in the fifties and it stills looks contemporary and fresh today. Timeless work…

How did you discover your style?
I guess it was a product of frustration. I was guilty of painting your typical meaningless surf art; line ups with perfect waves peeling in the background, palm trees, perfect lighting and off-shore winds. To me the paintings were technically correct, but lacking soul. I enjoyed the process, but not the end result. Out
of frustration, I covered up a painting I was working on; it created two color fields, separated by a thin line of lighter color. I suddenly saw in front of me an abstracted seascape… I’ve been on that path ever since.

What is the process of creating your art?
It’s a very intuitive process; no planning or sketching prior to painting. My studio is filled with discarded materials I’ve collected throughout the years; old wood, metal, papers, magazines, albums, etc. I find a material in my studio; either the texture or the color on it inspires me and then I build and paint that second complimentary color field. After many layers of color I find myself looking at an abstracted seascape. It’s a fun process; I get so involved in it, that many times I don’t even remember how I did it.

What do you do when you hit a mental or creative block?
Sometimes I sketch, but most of the times I just go through my stuff in the studio and something usually gets me going.

Where do you see your art evolving?
I see more color. I’ve done many moody, dark paintings and I see things brightening up. I just go with the colors I feel like mixing at the time. For a couple years I was stuck in this bluish/grayish world, a few years before it was warmer hues. I don’t know where I’ll go with it but I feel more colors lightning up.

Your first book is titled, “Wolfgang Bloch: The Colors of Coincidence,” what does the title represent?
The book is an introduction into who I am, where I came from and my work. The title “The Colors of Coincidence” refers to the encounters of people and events that have influenced and molded me into who I am today.

Where has your art taken you?
I’ve had shows throughout California and NY in the US, Japan, Brazil, England, Australia and France.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Every place I’ve been has something that makes them special. The people in Japan, Brazil and Costa Rica always make we want to go back.

What is the greatest thing you’ve learned in your life?
I’m still working on how not to be selfish. In comparison to life history, we are here just for a very short time. We should worry more about what we do for others, rather than how much stuff we collect throughout our lives.

What are you most proud of?
Becoming a husband and father.

What is the biggest struggle for an artist?
For me it’s the responsibility of having a family and having to provide for them. Painting is my job and sometimes it’s difficult to balance being creative and having good business sense.

What advice would you give to upcoming artist trying to establish their work?
I would say to try and find your own path. Find that thing that you do that is unique to you and
keeps you inspired to do more. I truly believe everyone has a talent.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I’m not sure, but I really like what has been happening in the past decade or so. The experimentation in design and the use of different materials; taking old concepts and making them contemporary. Kids trying out different boards and going back to having fun, not just learning tricks and ripping waves apart. I hope it continues…

I also love the work of Patagonia and Surfrider. We sometimes get comfortable and forget that we need to be watching out for our oceans. There’s a long list of people doing some amazing work like Yvon Choudinard, Chris Malloy, etc…

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
My kids. Kids bring so much into who I am. Talk about being inspired, what really inspires me is feeling good about where you are at and what you’ve done. It really drives me to produce.

What is your favorite meal?
Anything with seafood in it.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Classical piano.

What is next for Wolfgang Bloch?
Continue to grow and evolve as person and artist.

Learn more about Wolfgang Bloch and his work here.

Kevin Roche is a talented California surfer/photographer based in North San Diego County. His images, characterized by clean and vibrant imagery, uniquely captures the lifestyle of surf culture. We spoke with Kevin to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
My Dad was in the Navy, so we moved around the East Coast a lot… we were always close to the water and spent most of our time outside fishing, boating, and riding BMX. My parents split up, and then my mom got a house right on the beach for a couple of years… I started surfing then. My mom eventually left the beach, but you might say I never did – I moved to Encinitas in 1988.

When did you get your first surfboard?
Early 80’s at 13… a single fin piece of trash. I remember it whacked me on the head on my first session.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
It’s kinda a blur. At first, I was just a stoked kid riding the whitewater into the beach. After that, a couple of my friends got into it, and then it was all over. We were so hooked on surfing, my friend’s mom would drop us off at the pier and we would take turns on my friend’s Hobie twin fin while the older kids teased us and called us hodads. Something must have been alright with that…

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young man?
Surfers… there was nothing cooler than that… I liked guys like MR, cause he was the champ… Kong! err uh, Garry Elkerton… Kong’s Island was the ultimate grom’s surf fantasy… later Occy and Curren. Martin Potter had the best graphics and at the time it made a statement…

How did you get involved in photography?
My mom was a professional back in the early 80’s and she got me started. She developed and printed her own images, pre-digital, old school style. Developing film in the kitchen and hand printing B&W downstairs in the darkroom.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Everywhere has its moments, I love certain things about all of the places I’ve been. I love Hawaii cause it’s raw and beautiful, Indo for the perfection, Mexico for the culture and vibe, Fiji for the luxury…

Who/what inspires you?
Creative and passionate people that include other artists and photographers. Progressive surfing, both old and new school, and travel. Little moments in everyday life that stand out and make you take notice.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Do what you love…

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Yeah, of course. Probably could take some of my own advice. Do more, talk less… create more, let go… don’t get hung up on perfection cause it doesn’t exist.

What are you most proud of?
I don’t know. I’m not really into the big “claim,” but, I do have high standards for both myself and my work.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has pretty much created the life I have today. It’s trite and cliché, but true – I’ve stayed here in Encinitas for over 20 years partly because of it. It has also influenced my photography now more than ever.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
A day at the beach with sun, surf, family, and friends… creating a killer image!

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Kelly continues to inspire me… look at what he did at the Eddie this year… and then gets barrelled for days at head high Rincon the following month. Talk about a well-rounded surfer. I also like Dane Reynolds… function meets fashion.

The masters may not be doing the latest and greatest, but I think they continue to inspire us all. Style is timeless. Then you have the kids, who are always pushing in new directions. So I would have to say it’s a combination of the past, present, and future – driven by the individual, but really it’s more of a collective. Kinda like art… creativity doesn’t function in a vacuum.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
The one that’s with me! I like them all depending on conditions. I enjoy a classic log, but love my thruster in the winter when there’s some juice. I’m kind of creature of habit… I like my spots in Encinitas. And outside of traveling, that’s where I do most of my surfing. Swamis is probably one of my favorite (without the crowd) one of the best waves in the county. Love Hawaii, too. But not too big, ha! Love Fiji and Indo but that takes time and money.

What’s your favorite meal?
Freshly caught grilled fish, rice, and salad with an ice cold beer.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Pandora radio with little reggae, trip hop, Modest Mouse…

What causes/organizations do you support?
Surfrider Foundation, San Diego Coastkeeper. I’m pro-environment, concerned about what we eat. Anti fossil fuel, but I realize the hypocrisy we’re living in.

What are you most grateful for?
My wife and daughter… our friends, community… and surfing, of course!

What’s next Kevin Roche?
I want to do more photography that is personally inspired… I’m really interested in the culture, lifestyle, and history of our sport now more than ever. I want to bring that full circle with my work. Doing what I love – and that is to surf and make images that are inspired by the ocean and the culture around it.

Find out more about Kevin Roche here. All images are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

Matt Cuddihy is a talented Australian surfer/photographer. A recent winner of the Noosa Festival of surfing, Matt has accumulated many accolades from the longboard surfing community. We took some time to learn more.

What was life like growing up?
Life in Noosa has been great. From a young age, I’ve been playing in the ocean on all sorts of things—even bodyboards. (Laughs)

Who did you look up to and admire when you were young?
My mum and dad or “Mom and Dad” for you Yanks. They bought me my first surfboard and introduced me to the ocean.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
“Am I flying? I must be flying because I’m going so fast.”

Who/what inspires you?
A lot of people have inspired me in different times in my life—great people like Ansel Adams and John Muir… hiking around, exploring and seeing things in a different way.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
I love surfing San O and hanging out at the beach with everyone. I also like the Sierra Nevadas. It’s just so glorious; it makes you feel so small and insignificant.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Don’t take anything for granted because it can all come down in a blink of an eye.

What are you most proud of?
I stayed away from drugs.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
I can’t really think of life without surfing. It’s taken me to such beautiful places that non-surfers would have no reason to go to.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Coming out of a nice tube.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
I’ve always been a huge Tom Curren fan, so I think everyone can learn at least something from his surfing.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I’ve had the same log for about five years. I kind of need a new one, but she’s still me number one and you can’t go past a good wave at Tea Tree.

What’s your favorite meal?
Tortas, tacos… oh, and buffalo wing pizza with hot wing sauce from Selma’s in San Clemente. Whoever came up with that pizza idea should get a freakin’ medal.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
The Beatles, CCR, Led Zeppelin, The Shins and Jay-Z.

What causes, projects or organizations do you support?
Noosa Malibu club.

What are you most grateful for?
My mum and dad—so helpful and supportive of everything I would like to do.

What’s next for Matt Cuddihy?
I’m getting into my photography a little more now. And I’m coming back to Cali for the MSAcontest in September. See you all there!

Principal photography by surfer/photographer Dane Peterson. All images are copyrighted and may not be used without permission.

Kemp Aaberg is a legendary surfer from California. Known throughout the world for his iconic image “The Soul Arch” used as the Surfer Magazine logo for years, Kemp also appeared in many of Bruce Browne’s early films. An accomplished Flamenco guitarist and triathlete, Kemp spoke with us about his wonderful life.

What was it like growing up?
My father was a medic in the Navy during World War II. After the war, he aspired to improve his education so we moved to Boston in 1945. Stayed there for 3 years until he got his American Board of Surgery degree and then we moved to Pacific Palisades, California. I was nine and bodysurfing at a well known state beach where Buzzy Trent was the lifeguard in charge. As a young man, Buzzy with muscles upon muscles, would stride across the sand to his tower and all of us thought he was a sight to behold; he was strong, confident and one of the few that could actually ride a surfboard.

When did you start surfing and what was it like?
I started surfing in the summer of 1956 at Point Dume, above Malibu to kind of stay out everybodys way. I could crash on the rocks on my own. It took me quite a while to get the hang of actually transferring from paddling to standing on the board. I remember the unique sensation. It was like gliding in an airglider or something. It was actually phenomenal to be able to let go and stand up and let the wave take over. It was a captivating experience. I just wanted to get better and better at it and I’ve been trying to figure it out ever since. (Laughs)

What kind of board were you riding back then?
The first board I had was a borrowed one. It was a ten foot spoon shape with a sort of trash can lid nose on it. It was made of all balsa. It was so poorly shaped we wrote a nickname on it. We called it the “Butter Knife. “ This was made before foam and it was all we had to ride. No one had come up with fin boxes or leashes. All we had was a balsa board with a little fiberglass on it.

Who did you surf with?
One name that comes up for me is Mike Doyle. He was my surf buddy all through my learning stages throughout the 50s at Malibu. And there was Johnny Fain and he lived up in the Malibu Colony with a little cottage that overlooked the beach. You could literally run out the front door and into the surf. Miki Dora of course, was omnipresent. Pretty much anyone you’ve ever heard of was down at Malibu. And they all had nicknames, too.

What was your nickname?
I can’t disclose that. It took me 25 years to bury it. (Laughs) Tubesteak did call me “Meatloaf” at one time… but that wasn’t my nickname. Tubesteak was a real wonderful character at Malibu. He came down there in the summer of ‘56 and plopped himself at the point and built himself a shack. He cut off the legs of his gabardine slacks and just enjoyed the beach for a few years. In those days you could get away with that type of beach camping because there wasn’t any laws being broken. The beach was like a big “no man’s land.”

You grew up in a rather idyllic time in the history of surfing…
It was so fun, it was unbelievable!

What was it like in the early days filming with Bruce Brown?
Working with Bruce was totally fun. It was kind of like going to summer camp. I went with him with his first movie-making venture to Oahu in the summer of 1958 after I graduated from high school. I had a job working at Velzy-Jacobs shop in San Clemente. Bruce Brown was a local lifeguard down in the area. Dale Velzy hired Bruce to make a movie for him. I was lucky to be working there at the time and Bruce sort of picked me out as a wild card to go with him to Hawaii to film “Slippery When Wet.” Del Cannon, Henry Ford, Freddy Pfahler, and a guy named Dick Thomas. There were five us in the group that you might call “surfer-actors.” Bruce was sort of winging it using both his intuition and creativity. The film wasn’t filled with giant waves and spectacle, it was actually a very fun and historical film – even in this day and age.

Tell us the story about your famous surf photo, the “Soul Arch”
That photo was taken by John Severson. At the time, he was collecting photographs up and down the coast for a little booklet called “The Surfer” to advertise one of his first movies, “Surf Fever.” That was shot on a winter day in 1959 at Rincon and it wasn’t posed or anything. Severson was running out of film and had a few shots left with his tripod perched on the inside of the cove. I happened to hit a speed bump in the water, and (Laughs) by doing that it caused me to lean back into that position with my back. When he finally developed the film, only a few pictures came out and I think that was one of them. He placed that image in his booklet and it was so appealing to him and other people that it got used over and over and became the logo for Surfer Magazine for over 20 years!

That subtle soul arch has become such an icon…
Yes. I even met some people at a recent film showing who introduced me as “The Arch.” So there you go – that’s my nickname right there! But the real move that I wanted to bring to my surfing was to do a very sharp go-left and a swinging hard go-right with the board really going and planing into a giant arc.

What are you most proud of?
There are a couple of things in surfing that I’m proud of. One is being coaxed enough by Jose Angel to ride humongus 20+ Waimea, breaking on the outside reefs. That was very satisfying because that was my goal – I always wanted to ride some big waves. And I was able to do this in the company of Greg Noll and Pat Curren. To go over that lip and drive down that face is like the feeling of escaping from a wild herd of elephants.

And the other was when Mike Doyle talked me into doing the very difficult Catalina Race in 1961. It was a 35 mile paddle race from Catalina Island to the Manhattan Beach pier. Somehow I was able to hang in there on that and win it. I’ve always been drawn to endurance sports and in fact, I just about gave up surfing for ten years when the whole triathlon era came around.

What has been the influence of surfing and how has it changed your life?
The influence was in that I was able to travel and how it got me around the world. I graduated with a degree in physical education and was able to work as a phys ed teacher all over the world – places like Australia; Canberra, New South Wales, and Perth. It was surfing and the wonderment of what the world looked like that got me motivated to do that for a number of years.

And there is the social part of it and the people that you meet from all corners of the world. I met Felipe Pomar, the Peruvian surfer. All of the wonderful friends I have came from being involved in surfing.

Is it true that your brother modeled the Big Wednesday character Jack Barlow after you?
All of those characters were synthesized of course. They come from particular people that the writers knew. My brother knew me. One of them was based on Lance Carson.

Are you still surfing?
Yes, but not as fiendishly as I used to. At 71, it’s easier to get cold as you get older. I used to stay out for three hours and now I go out for an hour and a half at the most and then I am frozen. And half the battle of surfing is putting on a wetsuit!

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path of surfing today?
Jimmy Gamboa and Joel Tudor. They are both young and have a vision for riding longboards. And they are both beautiful surfers to watch. A lot of the other surfers are doing unbelievable things, but they all kinda look the same with their gyro-slapping and it isn’t a flowing, beautiful aesthetic thing. Jimmy and Joel have improved and enhanced longboarding into something really beautiful to look at.

What’s your favorite meal?
Stir-fry. Japanese stir-fry with tofu and vegetables.

Tell us about your music…
I love Flamenco guitar and Classical. It is such beautiful music. The uniqueness of the Baroque period has such a qualitative appeal that is the testimony of the genius of mankind. For example Mozart – his counterpoint was unbelievable. He could play harpsichord with such reckless abandon. Flamenco is the Gypsy music of Spain is a powerful, rhythmic style of music. The enthusiasm that it generates is amazing.

What are you most grateful for?
I think it would be impossible to single out one thing. I’m grateful for the experience of riding the planet for a while and seeing exactly what this exotic place is like. We are tiny little specks in the middle of nowhere. And as I am talking to you, we are moving at hundreds or thousands of miles per hour and there is no wind blowing. It’s an amazing and grateful experience to be among the phenomena of nature and somehow be evolving and to be able to reflect upon it. I would say eternity is the most amazing of all because you can’t package it.

Photography provided by Kemp Aaberg. All copyrights belong to the owners.

Myles McGuinness is a talented California surfer/photographer. Drawing on his graphic design background, Myles finds inspiration in color, light, and simple, bold compositions. Published in countless publications, we spoke with Myles to learn more.

What was your childhood like?
My childhood was pretty radical – hippie parents, co-op school in Berkley, California… with a lot traveling around the country. I think I saw almost the entire lower 48 states before age seven. To say I moved around a lot is an understatement. I was born in West Virginia and grew up skiing at a place called Snowshoe. Then, skipped back and forth across the country, including stints in Texas, Ohio, North Carolina, Northern California and, eventually, high school in Florida. Then college in Savannah, Georgia. I moved back west to San Diego in 1999.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I think I was 10 or 11 when I got my first board. It was 5’10” swallowtail Autrey shaped by Jeff Sturtevant.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
My older cousin, Jack McGuinness, took me out tandem on a longboard. I think I was five or six. Too young to remember the feeling, but I know I was stoked. Eventually, I started surfing daily at around age 11, when we moved closer to the beach in St. Augustine, Florida.

What inspired you to begin shooting images?
Both my parents were really into photography. My dad worked for a local paper as a photographer and my stepfather was also filmmaker. So, from a very young age, I was exposed to documenting life and the world around me.

What do you look for in a photograph?
My tastes change daily. I’m inspired by all kinds of images, and I like seeing photos that tell a story. The unspoken word. The old cliché “a picture tells a thousand stories”. I strive to find new and different ways to translate an experience or emotion onto film and into the pixels. Great images have always inspired me, whether they are images that have been captured before by others or those that I see when I close my eyes and imagine.

Images are so powerful; they motivate, tell stories, alter the course of history. They change the way we see the past and shape the future. For me, photography has been a lifelong means to explore and capture how I view the world—slices of life, an instant in time, a person, an experience or an event. I strive to connect with those places and people I’ve documented. Photography represents both a means of expression and documentation.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Australia would have to be it. I got hitched down there in 2002. We traveled with two other friends by camper van from the 12 Apostles in Victoria all the way up the coast to North Stradbroke Island, Queensland over the course of three weeks–eventually tying the knot in Byron Bay. Unbelievable trip and scored epic waves in Southern NSW at this fickle river mouth that rarely breaks. One for the memory banks, for sure.

Who or what inspires you?
Traveling has always helped me focus and reflect on what’s really important. It puts everything in perspective. Artistically, the following artists have influenced me for various reasons: Mies Van der Rohe because less is more; Edward Hopper for his realism and simplicity; Wynn Bullock and Ansel Adams for their surreal landscapes; Art Brewer for his grit and portraits, as well as John S. Callahan and Rob Gilley for their untold discoveries. Timeless, unrelenting, honest, always exploring.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Less is more and being patient. Still working on the latter of the two.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Sure. There’s a long list of things I might have done differently. It’s easy to look back and reflect on what I might change. But the past is the past and those experiences have helped define the person I’ve become, for better and worse.

What are you most proud of?
Easy one… being a father

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing has shaped my life for the last 25 years. It’s where I go to let it all go.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
In no particular order… scoring good waves with no one out, seeing my kids grow everyday, music and sharing time with good friends.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
There are so many different paths in surfing today, from hipsters like Knost and Warren Smith to the World Tour guys like Slater, Dane and Jordy. Then there’s the free surf guys like Chippa and Rasta, plus the big wave guys like Mark Healy and Greg Long. Everyone is contributing in different ways. At the core, I think it’s about doing what you love and having fun doing it.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Depends on the conditions. Right now my all-around board is a 5’10” shaped Bill Johnson. But when my favorite spot, Blacks – comes to life, my go-to board for the last few years has been a 6’3” pintail shaped by Steve Ford.

What’s your favorite meal?
Spicy tuna roll.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Mason Jennings, Yo-Yo Ma, Will Connor, Fugazi, Phoenix, Mingus, Johnny Cash, Jane’s Addiction and Gomez.

What are you most grateful for?
Being a lucky Irishman and having a wife that puts up with my BS.

What’s next for Myles McGuiness?
For me, it’s not about the destination. It’s all about the journey–whether that’s a trip just up the coast or off to a Third World country, capturing the feeling and essence of whatever is going on at the moment, from running down the goat trail to pulling in as wild fires rage on. Or watching perfect lines wrap down an unnamed spot.

As a lifelong surfer, my goal is not to simply become the next Action Jackson (RIP) that fires away at 3,000 frames per second, but to slow down, step back and appreciate those simple things that bring us so much joy–the people, the feeling, the environments and the experiences along the way.

I want to create images so vivid your other senses come along for the ride: the smell raw of fish that’s three days old; the feeling of the being engulfed by a wave, the sound of crisp fall air blowing up the face of a wave as the sun rises.

Find out more about Myles McGuinness and 9M Photo click here.

Maddie Joyce is a talented British surfer/artist who created The Magic Bus, a blog where people from all over the world stop by to get inspired by images of beach culture. She also recently finished a children’s book called Mr. Muckworth and the Windy Valley.

What was your childhood like?
I grew up in a wee village in East Sussex, England. It was really close to the beach so I remember playing there a lot with my younger brother. My dad had a little sailing boat, called The Lucy-Kate, which was always fun to go on! We would holiday in Cornwall almost every year in a little 1960’s caravan, and I loved it there!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
Oh, tricky one. I always looked up to my mum. She’s a wonderful artist and she really inspired me to paint. I can’t remember looking up to anyone famous. I had so many different career ambitions–one day it would be a vet, the next an air hostess!

How did you get involved in art?
Through my mum. She bought me my first paints, and taught me how to draw still life. I used to copy all of the drawings she did at art college and sneak into her art materials stash, and smuggle pastels and charcoal to use in my own creations! It was always my favourite subject at school though, and it always has been.

What is your process when creating your art?
I usually get all of my ideas while lying in bed, before I sleep. It’s where I try and focus all of my thoughts. Then, sometimes I wri te them down, then start them in the morning. I don’t have much of a process–just idea, to paint, to canvas. I usually have three paintings on the go at a time; I do a bit on one and then move to the next while I wait for it to dry.

Do you think that coming from England has given your art a bit of a different style compared to other “surf” artists?
I’m hugely influenced by different surf artists around the world, so I think that is definitely visible in my work. But the ragged Cornish coastline really inspires me to paint and I think perhaps that contributes towards a different style. The landscapes are so rural and weathered, and I try to put that feeling of being open to the elements across in my art.

Of all places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
Definitely, out of all of the places I’ve been, California tops it. I spent three months there in the summer and was blown away by it. I loved the art culture there; it was buzzing. Everywhere you look, there is someone creating or something to inspire you. I love that you can drive for four hours north and suddenly be amongst redwoods, waterfalls and mountains, then go back south and be in a lively and vibrant city. I met so many incredible and talented people there, and returned with a million ideas and plans.

Who or what inspires you?
All of the people I met on my travels inspire me the most, my boyfriend and all of the fantastic artists that submit their work to The Magic Bus. I feel lucky to be surrounded by such talented and magical people. In terms of artists, Cornwall-born Bryn Hall is amongst them. It’s great to see a young surf artist emerge from the deepest corner of Cornwall with such beautiful and enchanting work. (www.bryn-hall.blogspot.com)

Tell us about The Magic Bus.
The Magic Bus is a blog I curate. It is a daily post of photography and art from around the globe, capturing the ocean and those who live to be in it, but so much more than that. It is a daily dose of inspiration and magicality, a little dip in the ocean or a stroll by the sea. It’s a place for people to share photographs of their travels, their friends, waves, boards and all. (www.themagicbuscollective.com)

Why do you have such a strong affection for the ocean and the cultures that form near the sea?
I think where I have grown up has played a huge part. I liked the treasures I could find in it–hermit crabs, shells and funny shaped rocks. I love the unpredictability of the ocean, how you can sit and watch it and it will change in front of your eyes. The colours, the waves, the tides–it all moves and changes, morphing into the landscape around it. It’s alive.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To keep pushing my ideas, especially with art. Get them out there as much as possible and learning to accept rejection as something better always comes along.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
What brings me the most happiness is knowing that I have such solid support around me and fantastic people. Also, succeeding in things that I do, like the feeling you get when you’ve sold your first painting.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surf art today?
I follow a lot of blogs, and the artwork that comes out of The Boda Surfamily is so unique. There’s so much thought behind each piece, but at the same time being delightfully simple and just happy really! It’s honest, relaxed and makes me feel good inside. I think art should do that. But for me, that is the kind of art that is shaping the path for surf art today! (www.bodasurf.blogspot.com)

What’s your favorite meal?
BBQ Dave’s!

Marmite–yes or no?
Yes, big yes.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Well my iPod is dead and in a box beside me, but on iTunes is Mr Paolo Nutini.

What causes, projects or organizations are you involved with?
I have a few projects in mind. I’ve just completed a little children’s book called Mr. Muckworth and the Windy Valley and have a few more book ideas up my fleecy sleeve! Perhaps some artistic collaborations. I had these dreamboard ideas that I’d like to compile into a little book. I’m working on it!

What’s next for Maddie Joyce?
I would love to study again, so hopefully college or university and expand the bus of magic!

To learn more about Maddie Joyce click here. To take a ride on the Magic Bus click here. Photography provided by Maddie Joyce.

Micah Wood is a California surfer/shaper/artist. A modern day renaissance man, Micah is a talented and popular San Diego shaper as well as a fine art painter. Stating that gratitude is the greatest thing he has ever learned in his life, we drop in on Micah to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I definitely feel pretty fortunate to have had such a great childhood. I grew up in San Diego. My family lived in a really cool house in Downtown. I never lived by the beach, but my parents took my brother and I to the beach quite a bit. I learned how to surf at around six, but really got into it around eight years old. We were always camping, fishing, skateboarding, riding bikes—anything that consisted of being outside.

When did you get your first surfboard?
My first surfboard was a 6’2” Tony Staples. It was a channel bottom thruster with a rounded pintail, purple airbrushed bottom and a clear top. I was six when my dad got me that board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a surfboard?
I started pretty young, so I didn’t realize how fun it was for the first two years. I loved the water, but wasn’t too into surfing until I was brave enough to paddle all the way out. Riding the whitewater was only so fun, but everything changed when I actually was able to takeoff before the wave broke and ride down the line. Once that happened, I was totally hooked.

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young boy?
Parents and brother aside, I always looked up to my grandfather. He had to have been one of the wisest men I have ever known. He was the type of person who knew how to fix anything. He was always helping people. He didn’t complain much.

I have always been close with my family, so I basically grew up admiring and looking up to my family members—each one for various reasons.

Who or what inspires you?
I find beauty and inspiration in uniqueness. A surfer who has found his or her own true style is what really stands out to me. Same with artwork. My favorite artists are the ones who don’t try to paint or draw like someone else, but have found their own style.

Tell us about your art. What is your process?
I enjoy painting seascapes, waves, surfers, beaches … sometimes I will throw in a few birds or boats. It mainly depends on what my mood is or what I am trying to portray. I love to paint the uniqueness in Creation. My style of painting is to make my subject matter look lifelike; some might classify it as traditional realism. Some paintings look alive even though they’re just a painting. I try to capture the emotion, energy, or feeling and transfer it into my paintings for others to enjoy.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
To be thankful. More times than not, things happen in life that we don’t understand—sometimes bad and sometimes good. Sometimes it is for us to learn and be blessed from, and other times it is for us to go through it so others can learn and be blessed. Either way, I have learned how little we are in control of the overall outcome of things, so I am thankful to be able to understand that when things don’t go the way we expect them to, it is because there is a bigger and better reason that we may not have ever realized.

What are you most proud of?
Right now, it would have to be my new shop. It’s not much, but it sure does have character! It’s small, but it definitely gets the job done. I have just enough room for a shaping room, office space and an art studio. I feel really comfortable in the new shaping room, and the art studio is quite an upgrade from where I was painting before. I have never really built walls or done any electrical work, so that was pretty neat learning as I went along, building the whole place out.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
To be honest, I haven’t traveled much. I used to travel to Mexico with my family quite a bit. Dad would take my brother and I on surf trips down there. The cool thing is that since I haven’t traveled much, I still have a lot to see—which makes me super excited to one day get out there and see what all of those exotic surf spots are really about.

How did you get started shaping boards?
I worked my way from the bottom up working for Gordon & Smith Surfboards. I started off packaging surfboards, cleaning up and putting together skateboards. I then became a polisher. I ended up putting in about eight or nine years of learning all of the steps of glassing a surfboard before I learned how to shape. Shaping was the last step in the art of building surfboards that I learned.

I mainly wanted to get the design ideas out of my head and into a surfboard. I didn’t know how to explain to other shapers what I was thinking, so I figured I would learn how to shape the board myself. One board led to another, and sooner than later I started catching on. That’s when I began shaping for Gordon & Smith Surfboards. I had been shaping for G&S for about two years when I decided it was a good time to start my own surfboard label. I wanted to give myself the ability to experiment in different designs and surfboard styles.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
When certain things happen in life, that shows me that I am exactly where I am supposed to be. Those moments are pretty cool; those are the moments that make me feel like I am doing the right thing. It’s like asking the question “Why am I here?” and you are then given a true answer.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed our life?
I have been surfing for most of my life, so I don’t know what it would be like to not surf. I am definitely addicted. If I don’t surf for awhile, I can tend to get a bit stressed or bummed out; I start wondering why I have been working in the surf industry for this long. (Laughs) So, even if the surf is bad, I usually force myself to go out, and I always end up having a blast out in the water! One good turn or clean noseride can make any surf session worthwhile. So, every time I go for a surf, it reminds me why I build surfboards. Building surfboards and surfing is just way too fun to give up!

As for it changing my life, I wouldn’t consider it life changing per se, but more of a path that I have decided to take. One thing led to another, now my every day routine consists of surfing in some way—whether it’s painting waves, shaping, surfing, fishing off of my surfboards or even thinking of new surfboard designs. I don’t seem to be able get away from it too often. So, I wouldn’t say that is has changed my life, but it definitely has become a huge part it.

What are some of the people you feel are shaping the path of surfing today?
There are quite a few people who are pushing surfboard designs to a new level. A lot of shapers have been playing with the old ideas and putting a modern twist to them, which I find really inspiring. I was working in the same shop as Jeff McCallum for a period of time and enjoyed seeing his knee boards, spoons and paipo boards that he has been working on, along with his super fun quadfin designs. I recently have been stoked watching Tyler Warren surf on his new boards that he has been riding; he seems to rip on all sorts of strange, but cool-looking boards. I don’t know all of the shapers that are involved with his new boards, but those designs look really interesting and seem to work well.

All and all, it’s really neat seeing surfers picking up boards outside of their norm and trying different designs other than the typical quiver. No longer is it only thrusters, fish and logs that you see in the line-up. There are so many interesting designs being ridden that are keeping people super stoked on surfing and constantly challenging the status quo.

Did you know Wayne Rich won the Shape Off at the last Ventura Sacred Craft? He’s good! It’s true craftsmen like him that keep us newcomers always looking to shape something that is not only different, but works really well too.

What is your current favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I have been really getting into my shortboard designs lately, but I still ride a 9’8” Micah Wood Model the most. As for my favorite surf spot, this last week was Cardiff. I can only wait to see what my favorite spot is for next week. It changes quite a bit.

What’s your favorite meal?
Fresh fish that I caught. There is something special about going out on a successful fishing adventure, cleaning the fish and cooking it to share with good company.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
If I had an iPod, I would be playing a random shuffle of James Brown, Neil Young, anything with Jack White, Led Zeppelin, Bob Marley, The Beatles and Greyboy Allstars.

What are you most grateful for?
It is hard to say one thing that I am most grateful for. I am extremely grateful to have had the pleasure to have worked with Ernie Higgins, the owner of Waterlines Unlimited. He was a good boss and has been a good friend for a long time. He allowed me to spend the time to learn every step of building a traditional handcrafted surfboard. I wouldn’t be where I am today if it wasn’t for him. Thanks, Ernie!

I also can’t leave out Kaley Swift. She has been there for me, helping out from the beginning. A lot of people out there reading this probably already know who she is, so I won’t go into too many details. She’s my best friend—incredible surfer. She can cheer up anyone just with her presence alone. We have been together for over five years now! We have been pretty much running my business together. I usually go to her for advice or for insight on new ideas or surfboard colors. She really keeps my head on straight. I never realized that running my own business would be so stressful. I am really grateful to have Kaley in my life, and for her endless amount of help and support.

What’s next for Micah Wood?
Lots of surfing, making fun surfboards, plenty of art shows and many fish dinners!

Find out more about Micah Wood surfboards and his art work here. Surf photography by Chris Grant. All other images provided by Micah Wood.

Henry Ford is a legendary California surfer who starred in Bruce Brown’s “Slippery When Wet” and “Surfing Hollow Days.” Mentored by Hoppy Swartz and LeRoy Grannis, Ford was fortunate to be a part of surfing’s golden age – surfing the South Bay and Malibu in the 50s and being an early pioneer of the North Shore in Hawaii. We spoke with Henry to learn more.

What was life like growing up?
Growing up in Hermosa Beach was incredible. We were entertained by the beach every day. We really had the greatest playground in the world and the greatest mentors in the world. I grew up on 22nd Street in Hermosa when Leroy Grannis lived a block away and Hoppy Swarts lived another block away. In my high school graduating class alone there were people like Greg Noll, Bing Copeland, Sunny Vardemann, Dewey Weber, and Rick Stoner. We all lived next to each other and hung around the beach all day. It was just great!

And there were those days at The Cove. Rolling tires down the hill. No leashes, no wetsuits – no lunch! Just a bunch of friends. We’d light the tires up to stay warm. These were the days of bliss. Just surfing together and enjoying the greatest sport on Earth.

Who were you influenced by back then?
Just a lot of the people who were lifeguards and the people around there. People like the Meistrell brothers who created the Body Glove brand of wetsuits, shapers like Dale Velzy and Hap Jacobs. I used to ride my back to the Manhattan Beach pier and Velzy would let me clean his shop for free. I worked for Hap during those years when he was with Velzy/Jacobs and I worked for Hap exclusively until I took a job as a lifeguard. Hermosa Beach back then was a hotbed of surfing in the early 50s. Back then we would have people like Dora and Gordon from Clark Foam come down. It was just a great surfing community.

I do want to say this about our mentors, we would be able to ride their boards after they got out of the water because we showed respect. And they trusted us to show respect. It was a really important part of my life to grow up around these kinds of people – Hoppy Swarts, Leroy Grannis, the Meistrell brothers, Hap Jacobs, Velzy. These guys were great examples of surfing and beach life and just being a “waterman.” It’s a great term that I want to apply to those early pioneers. It was important to be a waterman.

Do you consider yourself a waterman?
I did until I passed 70! (Laughs) I am a rescue waiting to happen!

Who inspired you when you were growing up?
If you lived in Hermosa Beach you were part of a family. There was no localism or any of that. At that time, there were only a couple hundred guys on the whole coast. But a good portion of them were right there on Hermosa Beach. We lifeguarded, went surfing, and simply being watermen.

If you lived near the Hermosa Pier, you had all these great guys like the Meistrell brothers and Bev Morgan. If you went five blocks north you had Bing Copeland, Sonny Vardemann and Rick Stoner. If you went a little further you had 22nd Street “Double Deuce Danglers” – Freddy Bower, Gary Stever, Ricky Hatch and all those guys. Many of them went with Bruce Browne to appear in his films.

Actually, there were three men that really inspired me. Hoppy Swarts, LeRoy Grannis, and Hap Jacobs. Hoppy was one of those true gentlemen – a true human being. He was a very close friend of Doc Ball’s and he formed the high school CIF surfing community. Hoppy’s surfing and his ability to raise a family made him a great mentor. LeRoy was the same. He would come down and take pictures and then we would all run up to his house. We would crowd into his darkroom and see “what we did that day.” And Hap was just a wonderful mentor and we looked up to him and admired him.

What meaning does surfing have for you?
I caught my first wave in 1948. And since that time it has consumed my life. It is everything to me. Surfing is probably the greatest sport ever. It’s you and the waves and its just something very special. Going down to the beach, it’s like your amphitheater – your special place where you can go paddle out and watch the sun rise and the sun set. You can be one with Mother Nature. I’ve been doing this for the last 71 years (you do the math) and I have never lost the enthusiasm – I’ve just lost maybe the ability to stay warm! (Laughs)

What feeling do you get when you are on a surfboard?
Freedom. And the freedom to express yourself and to ride a piece of Mother Nature. To be able to – challenge yourself. Every wave is different, every session is different. And every set of conditions is different and to be able to adapt to it and enjoy it, on a cold and windy winter day. It’s something special.

What are you most proud of?
I’m just proud of the fact that I have the ability to give back to the sport. There really isn’t much money in running longboard surfing events. But I’m proud of the fact that I still believe in the history of the sport – I feel it sometimes gets lost in today’s current evolution of the shortboard. A lot of people and things get forgotten. The history of surfing is profound. It’s special and should be preserved and I have that opportunity every time I work at the Surfing Heritage Foundation.

What do you consider the highlight of your surfing career?
Being on the North Shore. (Laughs) What a shocking experience! You leave California and you go to the Burbank airport. You then get on a pink cloud airline. You fly 15 hours, you step off a plane, you drive to the North Shore… and all of a sudden you say “Holy jeez, Why did I do this!” (Laughs)

It was an eye-opening experience, some of those first years (‘56-’58) we were there. The waves were so big it was shocking! Coming from California, we weren’t really honed for it. There was simply no place to train for what we were doing. Back in those days there were very few people even on the North Shore.

What made you stay on the North Shore?
Well… we had a camera on the beach! (Laughs) You had to do whatever you could and then you had your best friends watching you. And there was the challenge of it. Every night when you went to sleep, you could hear the waves crashing on the beach! You could feel the shitty little house on rattling! Waking up on a set of bedsprings (because that’s what we slept on) and you would open up the front door, and you would be looking straight at the barrel at Sunset and say to yourself, “Holy guacamole! What am I doing here?”

What is your favorite surfspot?
Well the only place I can catch a wave is over at San-O! (Laughs) I’ve had a pass to Church’s for a while and I need to renew it. As soon as I retired, I moved here to San Clemente. This whole stretch of beaches here – this is truly God’s land. Also Boca Barranca in Costa Rica!

What music are you listening to on your iPod?
Dark Side of The Moon by Pink Floyd and Freddie Pfahler.

What’s your favorite meal?
My favorite meal is a Hawaiian plate lunch.

What are you currently working on?
We take Rabbit Kekai back to Hawaii now instead of running his contest down in Costa Rica as he is in his nineties now and doesn’t travel as well. We do it in Waikiki, right at Queens. And we still try to do as many longboarding events as we can. It just gets harder and harder to find anybody that wants to support the longboard community. To most of the surf clothing companies, longboarding is like the red-headed stepchild. Longboarding reflects the history of the sport and definitely has a place and should be recognized as such. People like Taylor Jensen and Steve Newton are just lighting it up right now.

What’s next for Henry Ford?
(Laughs) Gawd, I have no idea! Couple of trips with my friend Ryan to Costa Rica. Then I’m off to Nicaragua to ride some waves with my business partner John Gillam and the kid. And hopefully the water will warm up a little bit more and I’ll spend some more time down there. It’s just getting tougher to get out of bed on these cold mornings. And tougher to put on a wetsuit, too. Getting old is a bitch!

Photography: 1. LeRoy Grannis. 2. Steve Wilkings 3. Bruce Browne 4. Steve Wilkings 5. Glenn Sakamoto 6. Unknown

Alex Krastev is a talented Bulgarian-born surfer/artist currently residing in California. A chance encounter with Thomas Campbell on a bus inspired him to pursue his dream of creating art and design for the surf industry. We spoke with Alex to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
I grew up on the Black Sea of Bulgaria. I spent most of my time playing on the beach along with fishing and snorkeling. And I was always doing something in the backyard – with little wooden boats, handmade harpoons, and tree houses.

At age 8, I got my first skateboard. My dad made the deck and it had molded aluminum trucks and rubber wheels – it was truly an authentic skateboard. My mom on the other hand, just saw my “skate baggy pants.” I was skateboarding every day back than. That’s when I started drawing and paying attention to the skate graphics.

We moved to Morocco when I was 17. It was an amazing, small tourist town with summer all year long, and with waves and nice beaches. After a year or two, I got introduced to surfing. I was hooked. I loved the whole culture that comes with it – the art, graphics, music, movies and photography. And even though I graduated at the Culinary school and the Hotel and Tourism Management University, I decided to follow my dream of doing graphics and art, so I moved to Montréal to study graphic design. Far from my beloved surf and warm weather, I started seeking out freelance work at companies in Hawaii and California. After four years of that, I finally moved to Huntington Beach.

When did you get your first surfboard?
I bought it from a tourist in Taghazout, Morocco back in 1991. It was a 6’4″ “Moose” and it had a “Surfers Against Sewage” sticker. I rode it for a few years until it got heavier than a bag of sand.

A few years later, I meet this guy on a bus. He had red hair, a stuffed surf bag with rolls of paper inside, a skateboard, and a back pack. He told me he was coming back from an art show in Rabat. We started talking and I told him I draw a bit and I skate. He took me to see the place he was staying at in Taghazout. The place was covered with paintings – the walls, floor, even the windows. Everything was covered with paint – it was the greatest inspiration. Turns out it was Thomas Campbell. He was leaving in a week and I ended up with his surfboard.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I still remember it and have the picture in my mind. It was an amazing small inside wave in the Bay of Agadir. I used my friend Rashid and Anouar’s funboard for windsurfing. After I learned to take off on that they gave me a 7’4″ gun. It was so broken and cracked along the rails, it was cutting the inside of my legs. I was bleeding every time I surfed but I was so hooked that nothing else mattered!

How did you get involved in art?
My parents. My mom is really good at typography and watercolor. She taught me how to draw type and do washes. My dad however is more of a technical illustrator. He showed me how to mix colors. He showed me that by mixing yellow and red Crayola I could make orange! Blew my mind. Skating also influenced me a lot, Santa Cruz, Powell Peralta, I would redraw their logos and skulls everywhere! But I didn’t really take it seriously.

When I moved to Morocco with all the colorful moments from my journeys to the beach, the surf trips, sick right points – all of that was translated onto a piece of paper. I started drawing waves, surfers and started learning about some artists in California and Hawaii and the Polynesian Culture. I said this is what I want to do – I want to be a surf artist. In Montréal I learned how to use a Mac and started freelancing. I won a t-shirt contest for Da Hui then I created the Lost girls logo.

What is your process for creating your art?
These days I am working 50/50 – computer with paint, ink, acrylic etc. For commercial work, I use a computer to find reference.

If I am doing work for Future Seas (my blog), I use ink brush and it’s mostly loose lines. I love it because it’s relaxing and chill. I’m also getting into using photography and patterns that I’ve seen and incorporating them into my work.

For skate graphics, I start with ink on vellum with a blue pen rough, followed by a second clean sketch, and then I finish with an ink version. My Moroccan art is acrylic with ink lines with patterns.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Morocco. Especially the cities of Agadir and Taghazout. Everything from the color of the water, the shore line, house doors, bazaars, people, dishes, etc. they are all different and unique. You won’t find a house with the same color or ornament. It’s such an inspiring place.

Hawaii has been a real inspiration lately. I love the entire Waikiki Beach stretch. It’s the only place I will longboard.

Who/what inspires you?
My parents are the best. They still give me advice and I listen. My fiancé Ashley helps me with motivation and everything else when I paint.

For my art, I get inspired by everything that surrounds me. I love the sunset photos of Newport Beach lifeguard towers. Sometimes simple things like pelicans gliding above the waves, or old VWbuses at Blackie’s in Newport Beach.

Other surfers and artists I like are Thomas Campbell, Alex Knost, Alex Kopps, Tyler Warren, and Switch Foot Australia, those guys are doing it the right way!

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
I read an interview of Strider Wasilewski for Juice Magazine, and he said something really motivating. He said, “We live in a world of go-getters. No one is going to give you anything. You have to go for it! It doesn’t matter if you’re the most talented guy in the world, you have to work hard.”

Follow your dreams, work hard and everything will happen. I lived by that motto and I came to California with 2 suitcases, 2 surfboards and no one to call. 6 years later here I am.

What are you most proud of?
Being able to do what I love. Working for Quiksilver and doing most of the tees and all the Hawaii art. My recent art project with Whole Foods Market in Huntington Beach, I painted three huge paintings and a surfboard for their new store. I’m also stoked on showing my art in the Surfing Heritage Museum, Shelter Surf Shop and the Surf Gallery in Laguna Beach. Also creating the graphic for 25 year anniversary for Eddie Aikau’s contests last year.

On a personal level, realizing my dream, never giving up on it, doing what I love and finding the love of my life. That sums it up.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Only a surfer knows the feeling, one good wave can change your whole day, whole week, and inspire you. This morning I got a sick left at the HB pier ending with a small barrel. I went to work feeling like I had been promoted or gotten a raise. It set the mood for the day.

It’s definitely changed my life in a positive way, it keeps me young, I still feel like an overgrown child. It gives me inspiration, motivation, love and respect. Surfing also helps me translate the ride into everyday life. There are 10 guys going for the best wave and only one can get it – it better be me!

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Well surfing goes hand in hand with art, photography, movies, music etc. Thomas Campbell, Alex Knost, Dane Reynolds, Kelly Slater – those guys have passion and don’t care what the industry is saying about them. They do what they love and do it how they want to.

What’s your favorite meal?
My fiancé Ashley’s food is really good, Italian, Mexican, Chicken everything. Moroccan food, cooked in a Tajine (hand made clay pot ) for 2 hours that’s’ the best. You can put fish, lamb, chicken anything in there. And I can’t forget all the great Bulgarian food that Mom makes!

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I love music. My iTunes is currently playing Oasis, Wavves, Growlers, Beach Fossils, the Stooges. Other playlists that are coming in repeat are Hawaiian music, Marish Danish, the Beatles, The Stones, The Pump Soundtrack etc.

What are you thankful for?
Everything! My parents, Ashley, and iving like the way I want to. Andrea Darr for giving me the call that changed my life and brought me to California.

What’s next Alex Krastev?
Painting, creating, designing, doing art shows in Hawaii and California and putting my name on the art map. Hopefully getting involved in art shows on an international level like the Greenhouse in Japan.

Find out more about Alex Krastev and his artwork at his blog here.

By Dan Hamlin

Andy Powers is a California surfer/musician. Whether he’s jamming with some of today’s hottest musicians, making instruments for those same musicians, or experimenting with different crafts to ride waves on, his creativity knows no limits. We spoke with Andy to learn more.

Where did you grow up and what was your childhood like?
My parents moved to Encinitas, several years before I was born, to live near the beach. Around the time I came along, they had moved to Oceanside, where they still live. My brother, sister and I grew up spending a ton of time at the beaches in the area. My folks decided to go the home taught route, which gave us all sorts of time to pursue things we were interested in. They were always encouraging us to try things. For me that meant music and surfing. There were musical instruments around our house, so we all played to one degree or another. And I was fascinated with music and the things that made music.

When did you start surfing?
I’m not really sure, but it followed the progression of running on the beach eating sand, as a wee little one, to riding a sponge in ankle deep water. Then, finally graduating to a hand-me-down surfboard.

What got you into surfing?
I credit my dad for his love of surfing. He really loves the glide and shared that joy from the time I was young.

What was your first surfboard?
The first board that I could claim ownership to was a used Rusty thruster. I think it was 6’3”—really wide with those big boxy rails that were the thing in the 80s. Before that, I’d ridden my dad’s fish and an old blue single fin that had been fished out of a dumpster. But that Rusty was the one.

How did shaping come about for you?
It really was just out of curiosity and wanting to try a few new things. My brother and I had a small business, when we were groms, making miniature longboards, out of wood, that we sold to surf shops. So, there has always been a bit of surf board experimentation, although I wouldn’t consider myself a real shaper by any means. There are guys who are shaping some fantastic boards, and I like riding those boards. I only shape something when I want to try something really different.

Tell us about these alaias you’ve been making lately.
My brother got the idea to try one of these, so I bought some wood for him to make one. That first one didn’t ride too well for me, but it was fun enough to try to make some better ones. What I’ve been riding lately is a combination—a real mutt of a board! I’ve been laminating a blank of balsa and salvaged redwood, like the old Pacific System Homes boards. They are thin and flexible like an alaia, but with the bottom contours of a Simmons-built spoon. My favorite one even has two small “finlets,” those little elliptical fins you see on the Simmons. The bottom has a long single concave, almost the entire length of the board, with a beveled rail.

The rails have a hard corner onto that bottom bevel, then gradually blending into a very turned up rail near the nose. The whole thing is pretty small, about 6’3” x 15.5” and a little less than an inch thick. It is a ridiculously fun thing to ride on a small glassy wave; you can feel every little flex and movement. It feels like you are flowing with the wave. It is a really dynamic kind of experience.

How did you get into long-distance paddling?
When I was in high school, a Velzy lifeguard board ended up at our house for a summer. I enjoyed taking that out on windy days, just going for the challenge of being out in the ocean with all the chop. That board ended up disappearing, and a few years ago I started getting back into it on a proper stock board—partly to enjoy the ocean in a different way, partly for the exercise aspect and partly to satisfy the craving of getting wet even when there’s not surf that is good for riding.

What do you love about surfing?
There are so many aspects it is almost impossible to say in a short space. Some days, I love surfing simply for the glide of racing down a smooth wall. Some days, I love just to be out in a salty, wet wilderness. Sometimes I love it for the thrill of a bigger wave. Gliding on a band of energy moving through water—it’s pretty tough to not love that.

When did you start making music?
I started on piano when I was a little guy, but my real interest was with the guitar and mandolin, and other instruments we had around our house. I started playing with those when I was tiny. Those turned into electric guitars before too long and I was playing in bands by the time I was ten or eleven.

What got you into making instruments?
My dad is a carpenter, so although I didn’t really see it happening, my interests of woodworking and music naturally started to combine.

Who are some of the bands/musicians that have come to you for your instruments?
I’ve worked with lots of fun musicians: Jason Mraz, Switchfoot, Nickel Creek, Elvis Costello, a bunch of jazz musicians—all sorts of great players.

Do you find a correlation between your music life and your surfing life?
Absolutely I do. Sometimes it is a very direct influence; I might inlay waves or splashing water to decorate a guitar. Or, it could be a little more abstract and find parallels between the line someone draws on a wave and the ebb and flow of a melody. In some situations, musician friends are also surfing buddies.

What are you most proud of?
My wife and I had a little boy a few months ago, and we are quite ecstatic with the addition to our family.

Where do you find inspiration?
It is pretty hard to look around and not find inspiration in something. My instrument making is directly influenced by music I might play or listen to, other instruments I’ve heard or an artist’s work. I love beautiful sculpture; those Simmons boards are pretty amazing. Being in the water is a refreshingly inspirational experience for me.

What’s next for Andy Powers?
Change a diaper at the moment. (Laughs) Actually, I’m going to do some work with Taylor guitars that I’m real excited about.

To see some of Andy’s work visit here. Water photography by surf-shot.com. Guitar building photography by Sam Wells.

Ana Osgood is a California surfer/artist. Originally from the East Coast, she migrated west and now calls Malibu her home break. Trained in the arts and multi-talented – Ana is a successful painter, jewelry maker, and food stylist. We spoke with Ana to find out more.

What was growing up like for you?
It was fun. I grew up in Vermont and Maine. In Vermont we lived in a small rural ski town, population 1,700. It was beautiful and we had endless freedom as kids: swimming in rivers, building forts in the woods, building epic sled runs and skiing icy cold mountains. I am one of those people that can say… “When I was young”.… I walked to school through rain, mud, snow, and zero degree weather, and hunting season; where my Mom lovingly put me in a bright orange hat and vest and told me to sing loudly so the hunters would know I was coming! We had beautiful land, gardens and I was taught very early on to love the outdoors and nature.

As soon as school was out for the year we would drive to Maine and take a 2-hour ferry across Penobscot Bay to our house on an island. There we would spend our entire summer. Lobstering is the main source of commerce on the island and as teenagers we all put our time in as stern men or women on the lobster boats. Summers were the best, a break from the long winters: my cousins, swimming, sailing, digging for clams, fishing, exploring islands, sleeping under the stars, I think I spent my entire summers outside. My parents were fun, adventurous and I am thankful for such a great childhood.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
I started late, 30 years old and I had never imagined there was a sensation like that, it was like flying, skimming across the water, and quiet, seeing the water green and moving beneath me, it was pure joy and I was hooked.… the addiction was instant. I didn’t know anything about surfing; a friend took me out one very early September morning at Venice breakwater stuck me on a long board and pushed me into a glassy early morning wave and that was it. I spent the next 6 months at the beach. I bought an old 9’8″ Hap Jacobs, a used wetsuit and began the difficult journey of learning how to surf.

What did you want to become when you were a child?
I had 10 years of intensive ballet training and there was never a moment from age 6 that I questioned what I was going to be: A professional ballet dancer. At 16 I suffered from some very serious knee injuries and was forced to stop dancing. It was heart breaking at the time but I also am very grateful that I experienced that intensity and passion towards something. I know now that those years of ballet classes were preparing me for surfing!

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a child?
My grandmother. She was a beautiful person, a talented artist and a free spirit. She encouraged me to be myself, follow my passions and above all have fun in life and laugh a lot. My mom who is beautiful, talented, fun, quirky, and an amazing athlete. She gave so much to me as a kid, and still does to this day. Both my grandmother and mother always encouraged me to be myself, not follow what everyone else was doing and be independent.

Where did you study painting?
I went to a performing arts high school in Boston for Ballet. At 16, when I was dealing with my knee injuries and had to give up dance I was asked by the school to choose another major. I was friends with one of the painting teachers and she encouraged me to a painting class and I instantly loved it. It was so different from ballet, not physical, more cerebral and I think at that age I was really interested in soaking up information and found painting to be a great outlet for me to redirect my focus. It was like a vacation after all those years of sore toes from point shoes. After high school I went to The School of the Art Institute of Chicago for a year, I am not sure exactly why but I wasn’t happy in Chicago so I transferred to The Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts in Philadelphia where I lived for 3 years. It was a fun city, easy to live in and close to New York.

What is your process when creating your art?
It really depends on what I am working on. I always seem to have different projects, series, different mediums that interest me. I would say generally my process is very organic. I might have an idea or a concept and then I just begin laying paint down on the canvas and seeing where it leads me. My process is like a journey, I love starting something with only a notion or feeling that I might want to convey and then the process begins to lead me. It is a wonderfully meditative process. I have recently been working on what I call my “dot” paintings. The only decision I make before hand is what color I want to work with, then I begin placing marks and follow the path that they create. It’s a fun process that leads me into patterns that I could never have preconceived. I can say that I am very much interested in landscape, color and pattern. Art to me is an outward expression of what lives within us innately. Art and the process of making art reminds me to be aware, to see something new. I also really enjoy working with mixed media, found objects and collage. I could never do the same style paintings over and over again, life changes so much and to me art is simply a reflection of that.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I have been very fortunate and have traveled to many places but there is something about Baja that I really love. I think it feeds into my love of adventure, and taps into my childhood where pure happiness was when we were outside in nature and the elements. There is something “wild west” about Baja, anything can happen, you never know who you will meet, what will happen, what will the weather bring? Will the road we took last year be there this year? You spend hours of white knuckle driving and then finally arrive to your destination and there are beautiful waves waiting for you. It is raw, unspoiled and beautiful and I think the fact that it is so close to the sprawling megalopolis of So Cal fascinates me and reminds me off all that we have to be thankful for living here in So Cal. Passing over that border is escapism, I immediately feel a sense of freedom and adventure and I love that.

What code or “Golden Rule” do you live by?
Live in the moment, be kind and find humor in all situations.

Who/what inspires you?
Nature, I love the ocean, the mountains, the desert, and the sky. I will never get bored of seeing new places, traveling, meeting new people. Sometimes the simplest thing will inspire me; like driving up the coast on a sparkly winter day, it is all so beautiful, I treasure those days where I feel a connection to nature.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
That’s a tough question. I would have to say that you have to live in the moment and be thankful for what you have. I really do believe that if you put your mind to something you can make it happen. I made a big leap by moving to California; I learned that taking chances pays off.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
Who doesn’t? But the past is the past, there is nothing I can do about the past now, I just want to live in the moment. Any regrets, experiences, relationships, and decisions: Good or Bad, it makes me who I am today, and I have to be comfortable with that.

What are you most proud of?
Getting in my car one freezing cold morning on the East coast and driving myself across country to LA and starting a new life for myself. I was 29 and was not very happy on the East Coast. Yes, it was home but it didn’t feel right at the time, I think it was too familiar and cold. I had never been to California but liked the idea of it and had a couple friends in LA. I figured I had nothing to lose, I took a chance and it worked out. California feels like my home now and I am so grateful for the life that I have here.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing came exactly at the right moment in my life for me. I had been in LA for about 6 months and was trying to start a new life for myself. I didn’t know a lot of people and coming from small towns back east I have always liked being part of a community. The surf community is very unique. It brings so many different people together; ages, professions, back grounds and to find that in a place like LA is remarkable. I love the people I have met through surfing and the community that it provides. There is something so special about showing up at a break anywhere between Mexico and Santa Cruz and seeing someone you know.

It is also really fun and I think as an adult to be able to still have that feeling of butterflies in your stomach when you know there is a good swell, or that feeling you have after a good day of surfing, that one good wave that makes you smile and all the layers of life’s stress dissolves in an instant; that all keeps us young and that is a real gift.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Surfing. I really do love it and it makes me happy… I also love being with my mom, my boyfriend and my dog. Being outside, spending a day surfing, eating.

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
There are so many good surfers out there who do it for different reasons. I am deeply impressed by the women that go out and charge big waves, but I am equally impressed by a surfer who surfs beautifully just because they can and they love it. The surfers that impress me the most are the ones that are really good but don’t let their egos take over. They have fun in the water no matter what size the wave and they are kind. These are the people that I think are the best role models. Being humble is a great quality in a person, especially in a surfer.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
I love a lot of boards and love riding all shapes and sizes but right now I love my two hulls from Ian Zamora. Speedy, glide machines that are just fun fun fun. Favorite surf spot? I am a sucker for a point break… but there are so many fun places to surf. But I do love my peeps at the Bu.’

What’s your favorite meal?
Does red wine and chocolate count as a meal? I think so… Sushi, Thai food, I love hamburgers with blue cheese, a good salad, anything fresh and seasonal.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
Right now mostly Pandora Radio, some of my current stations: Zero Seven, The Fugees, Lauren Hill, Anything R&B, Reggae, David Bowie. Amy Winehouse, Stevie Wonder, some cheesy 80’s music too.

What’s next for Ana Osgood?
A surf trip to some uncrowded waves.

Learn more about Ana Osgood and her work here.

By Mary Mills

Dan Forte is a California surfer/shaper/musician and is the owner of Dano Surfboards. Equally talented with both a planer or guitar, Dan serves up beautiful shapes and sounds. We spoke with “Dano” to learn more.

What was your life like growing up?
Pretty easy. I grew up in New York… Brooklyn, New York ‘til I was 12 and then I moved to California. It’s been good.

When did you get your first surfboard?
When I was probably 13. I bought an eight foot yellow single fin gun from Infinity. At the time, Terry Senate was actually working there selling boards. That’s who sold me my first board.

What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
“Holy s**t!! I’m doing it!”

Who did you look up to and admire when you were a young man?
Oh, my dad 100%. Surfing-wise, growing up surfing Salt Creek a lot, there were a lot of underground guys that kind of ruled the place—Kevin Billy, Mike Cruikshank, those kind of guys. And then, on the international thing, guys like Rabbit, Mark Richards, Terry Fitzgerald.

When did you start shaping your own boards and what inspired you to do so?
I think it’s been about 23 years now or somewhere around there. But, I actually bought a blank for a neighbor kid to do a school project and he never used it. It sat in my garage for months on end. Then, one rainy day when the surf was bad, I just decided to go for it.

How did that turn out?
Not so good. (Laughs)

When do you think you became truly proficient at shaping surfboards?
I’m still trying. (Laughs) Oh, I think it took a couple hundred until you actually had a consistent thing going. I started… about my 10th or 11th board, I already had a couple of shop accounts and started going for it. There were a couple of shops down in the Dana Point area and then Surf Plus up here in Newport.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Australia. The waves there are really, really fun and the people are good. They have a lot of life to ‘em. It’s pretty cool. Definitely like going to Kauai. I try to do that once a year with my family. The North Shore of Kauai is probably one of my favorite places.

Who or what inspires you?
I definitely am inspired by things from the past. I like old boards, the culture around them, the lifestyle that they lived back there and just am kind of super into old stuff.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Live each moment to its fullest.

Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently?
No. I think it’s all been good; it’s all turned out pretty good so far.

What are you most proud of?
My family for sure. Also, just being able to run a business, come to work and just be a good person. I try to be as good a person as I can be.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing… I find just to be a good escape from a lot of things. Being able to go out there every morning, kind of do your own thing your own way… you see everyone going to work in their suits and ties, and you’re going in the opposite direction to go jump in the water.

I think the whole meaning of surfing is to be an individual and do your own trip. That’s probably one of the coolest things about the whole surf scene.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Oh! My kids!!

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
It’s been a good few years where just anything goes. People are just shaping stuff that’s like… you can’t even keep up with the trends: no fins, pieces of wood, mat surfing, handplanes. Everything goes. It’s actually a really cool time to be a shaper. People come to you and are like, “Hey I want to do this!” And you say, “Alright! Let’s do it!” It’s cool.

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surf spot?
Favorite surf spot? I’d get in trouble if I say. It’s a very long right and it’s not in Southern California. Favorite board? At the moment, I’ve been riding an 11 foot hog that I shaped. I’ve surfed it off and on for the last three years. I’ll make myself something, ride it for awhile and then go back to that one. I always ask myself, “Why haven’t I ridden this one the whole time?” I really enjoy riding a bit longer board and kind of pig shapes.

What’s your favorite meal?
My wife makes vegetarian jambalaya. That’s probably my favorite.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
I just listen to a lot of old blues stuff. I’ve been turned on to a few, like Bo Carter, Doctor Ross—the kind of stuff that I stumbled across on other people’s websites. I’ve been really happy to find some new stuff.

Which bluesman or woman from the past would have made the best surfer and why?
Oh, man!! You’ve got to think probably Muddy Waters would be a pretty cool character out in the water. He always had good composure. He’d probably be a pretty good longboarder.

In your next life, will you be a professional musician who shapes on the side or will you come back as Dano, a shaper who does music on the side?
I’m pretty much a shaper who does music on the side now, so we’ll try it the other way next time.

What causes/organizations do you support?
I like to support stuff that helps keep the ocean clean and things that help the environment. If you say an organization, everyone jumps on you that you should be in another one. I have events every other year, and I get Surfrider involved. I like to do what I can to help them.

There’s an organization called Graceworks Kenya. When I have those parties, I actually have my sons class draw paintings. We sell them and donate the money to the kids that have been orphaned in Africa from the AIDS epidemic.

What are you most grateful for?
Everything I have.

What’s next for Dano?
I don’t know. I haven’t really been thinking about that. I’m at a loss for words for once in my life. I guess what’s next for me is finishing the backlog of boards and playing some music.

Find out more about Dan Forte and Dano Surfboards here. Action photography by Jason Hall. Board and portrait photography by Ken Samuels.

Cameron Oden is a talented California surfer/photographer. The staff image maker for Almond Surfboards, Cameron is unique in that he surfs just as well as the people he films at the beach. We took the time to chat with Cameron to learn more.

What was life like growing up?
I grew up in Costa Mesa, California. My childhood was pretty typical for around here, going to the beach every now and then but things really changed for me when I was about 15. That’s when I started to get really into skimboarding and photography. I spent most of my summer days hanging out down at The Wedge shooting photos and skimming with friends.

What is the feeling that you get when you are surfing?
Surfing just makes me happy, there is nothing else like it. Its clears my mind of any stress and puts me in a better mood than when I got into the water.

Where did you interest in photography come from?
When I was little I always liked to take photos with my mom’s camera. Then my freshman year of high school I ended up volunteering to be one of the yearbook photographers. I didn’t know anything about photography and I didn’t own a camera, I felt like it was just something wanted to do. It ended up just taking me by storm and I decided fairly quickly that photography was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. I left high school during my Junior year to do independent study, so that I could pursue photography full-time.

What do you look for in capturing a good image?
I just try to find a different take on whats going on. I feel like there is a lot of repetitiveness in surf photography, so I just try do what I can to be a little different.

Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out? And why?
I don’t travel that much but I really like Santa Cruz, its a nice change every now and then from Newport.

Who/what inspires you?
Kyle Lightner inspires me for sure. I have learned a lot from him and he has changed my outlook on photography. Simon Perini’s photography has also been really inspiring to me and he has always been really encouraging.

What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life?
Probably just to be happy.

What are you most proud of?
Doing what I love to do. I think I lucked out learning that early on in life.

What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life?
Surfing is pretty much everything to me. It charged my life for the better, from my day to day life, to the people I work with, to my friends.

What brings you the most happiness in the world?
Hard to say, hanging out with friends and surfing is up there on the list…

Who are some of the people you feel are shaping the path for surfing today?
Dave Allee, Kyle Lightner, Cyrus Sutton

What is your favorite board? Your favorite surfspot?
I have two favorite boards right now: My Almond “Sea Kitten” and my Almond “Quadkumber.” They just work so well for the places I surf. My favorite spot is probably 32nd St. in Newport. It’s not the best wave, but I have a lot of fun surfing there.

What’s your favorite meal?
Garlic Bread. I know its not a meal but sometimes I make it one.

What are you currently listening to on your iPod?
The Knife, Yeasayer, The Cure, and Fleetwood Mac

What causes/ projects/ organizations do you support?
Almond Surfboards and Designs

What are you most grateful for?
Has to be my friends and family. I know everyone says that but I would not be anywhere without their support.

What’s next for Cam Oden?
I think a lot more work on the video side of things. Other than that, just trying to spread the stoke!

Find out more about Cameron Oden and his work here.